A Forum run by Enthusiasts of MidNite Solar

so now I think it is time to show you my system.

Have done it allmost finish.

You can find all pictures on my web site:
http://a68k.de/pv/
and the final system here: http://www.a68k.de/pv/umbau.htm

My site is in German, so i try to give you some notes here in english to it:



The system was build in May 2014 from a company, I cannot recommend them.
Later they gone bankrupt and changed their name a little bit, but everything else keept the same
(CEO, website, tax number, and so on... just in progress at my lawyer and the justice...)


They build 12 modules on my flat roof with each 240Wp and 60cells.
The modules were connected as pairs and then parallel.
The charger was unknown, also the inverter - some china crap.
As the voltages of the modules did not match the system voltage (48V) and unknown chargers and much bungling (you see it in the pictures) the system never run well. But I had to find out....

The switching from inverter to grid and back was a stupid thing, about 1 second without energy ...
3 times my OS was corrupt, one harddisk is gone to heaven. Thanks again.

Also, the inverter was very mysterious and dangerous, the voltage floated without any potential and "surges" (not the right word...mh...)
And it was impossible to watch analogue TV or listen to a radio station (all via cable into the house) and in my CB I heard the sparks of the inverter...
Also lights were flickering (energy safe lie bulbs)

After a long fight with emails and calls, they tested a filter. But this did not help (wondering?)
Then again after a long time, they changed the inverter. Since then I had a big ugly hole in the cover of this ugly system for the Westech inverter.
Now I had no more problems with tv/radio/cb, the Westech itself switches from battery to grid.

But more problems knocked my door.

I realized, that the system less and less gives me the energy back as it has to be. This was related to the new inverter (its energy consum) and a dying battery, I measured out then.
(No Balancer had been installed)
They killed the batteries by uncharged them down to 20% (right, you read right!!!) That's a death-judgment for batteries. Then I knew this, also thanks to the photovoltaikforum.com, where this company and the mens behind the scene are well known... now I know it better, but will not change the past.

I wanted the company to change the charger, or give me more informations about them. Also reference to the dependence of the PV voltage and the system voltage, that can not work. They send me the same chargers and then I never heard again from them.
After my lawyer was involved and wrote them a nice letter, they gone bankrupt.

So I was standing alone with this "thing" ...
In the photovoltaikforum.com I had some advice and the recommending to the Classic.  I ordered in CZ and began to re-build the system - Step by step from now...
You see it in the pictures.

Then more and more scary things came to the surface. Loose connections of the PV cables, just close to burn down the house ... Also the battery cables, used a 50qmm connector and a 25qmm cable ... wooooo..... I get goose bumps when I think back.

After installing the Classic it was like changing black to white. I also reconnected the modules by 4 in a string to get higher voltage.
Now I had much much more energy - although it now turned out that a second battery was dying.
I had to buy quick new batteries but ... no donkey with golden eggs in the basement... what to do ... leaving this in the basement unused? no.
Buy cheap and get cheap. I know. In this situation, it was better then have nothing...

So one thing came to the next step ...



Meanwhile I installed a 4th array of modules on the flat roof.
Compensate bad weather (get more energy) but now as summer is comming, I connected it to the 2nd classic.

Life was good to me and I am very grateful for this deal!
The lite was replaced by a non-lite, and the lite now charges, connected to the 4th string, the two survived 200Ah batteries.
Here I connected the APC 1400 RM XL and if the 48V is "empty" it switches back to the APC and then if these batteries are empty, it switches back to grid.
Just using existing equipment, without spendung more money in the system.
It is working, not perfect as the network card in the APC is crazy sometimes and the APC is turning off, although the batteries do have enough energy...
Will find out why.



Did I write, that I bought cheap batteries? ... the first of the new AGMs lost its capacity.
So these batteries are not really heavy - what is 60 kilos ... mh... they don't care.
But they replaced it.
Next battery died. So I took all them to the dealer, let him check them all.
Battery was replaced, all Batteries back to the basement, and "restart"
Now the last replaced battery died again. (what a ....) but no more warranty.
They told me some stupid stories ... all lies ... they sell batteries and I have more knowledge about batteries...
But after a very very hard negotiation I get one for half price - and they see me never again. (also car garages who bought batteries there)
And now I had to find out, the next batterie will die soon.

I am not alone, another member of the forum also has these "great" batteries; also one is dead.
If he is happy with his new battery system, it is possible to get his old batteries and I safe my money now for a bigger and better battery bank in the next year.


A picture of the system with infos in english in attachment.
(not final wiring, but a good overview)


Now the final is a looking like a pinball table, doesn't it? hehe ;)



As allways, please excuse my english skills -  it is not my native language.
Most is written I know it, some parts are translated via google - but I am sure you understand it :)



PS: You see my old AVM FritzBox 7270 v3 router as a wifi-bridge to my AVM clable 6360 in my living room with internet connection.
- The perforated metal is from a store that closed.
- The "case" of the system is a heavy duty shelf from the hardware store.
- The wood is impregnated against fire (just in case, will not really help, but for the belief... ony day I replace it to Bakelit or like that)
- The loose socket will be mounted in the front (see the 6 Amp. fuse switch)
- Also the cables to the Classics will get a fastening and protection




Please feel free to comment it. Also if something is wrong or you don't understand.

Good Humour BinKino....  David Byrne would appreciate that.... Burning Down the House...  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVv94T5LF0c

:) ;)

Mate, I am really sorry for your grief!
It sucks when someone rips you off! I have had a lot of it over the years and has cost me best part of 1.5 million dollars australian!
I built my system from bits and pieces I sourced off ebay and other places.
Could not afford to have some professional wanker supply and do the work for me.
it will take time but I am sure you will sort your system out to get it functioning better/closer to what you require or expect.
I have a small standalone system which I use to run 3/4 of my house during the day and switch back to grid tie at night time.
Read the power meters the other day and did some calculations on grid tie feedin tarrif etc and I think I have picked up an extra $300 a quarter by using my standalone during the day as well as the grid tie systems!
It does not sound like much money, but over 12 months it amount to $1,200, which is half of another 4 trojan L16 batteries!
I can not post pictures of my system on the forum as it is pretty crappy compared to what most people have here.
But it is mine, yes I put it together, it may not be the best, but it works and saves me money and allows me to further save more money every year!
It is all about learning, experience and being being better for all exposures.
I hope you have better luck as you sort yours out!
Good luck!
Auf Wiedersehen
Hoffnung Dinge besser!
Lol, my family came from poland and then fled germany in 1908!

Interesting design installing controller and breakers horizontal on shelves like that instead of vertical on a wall. I never thought of that. I suppose if there are no cooling issues it is okay and certainly a space saver in some ways.  Was that shelf design your idea or the original installers ?

Larry

binkino;

Your English is much much better than my German, so no worries.

Personally, I only speak English and Bad English. :o

Thank you all ;)


After these experiences I had this phrase of the song in my head and in my head and in my head and ...... We call it a "earwig" ... :D

(have smoke detectors installed hehe)


The installation in the blue shelf was my idea, after I saw no more chance because they gone bankrupt, so I had to decide what to do :)

To put everything again in the top of all was a good thing, to be able to build it clear and correct.
(underlining 'correct' ... correct dimensioned cables and connectors, no loose wires and plastic as a screw nut where much energy flows ... and so on hehe)

The horizontal installed Classic was temporary in the beginning. I also had a small computer fan in there, that supported an air flow

Just an update ;)

As I am now throwing out these crap of AGM batteries, I bought some used OPZ and had to rearrange my system in the basement, as the OPZ don't fit under the "table" I build.

That's the result in attached picture (can't insert the attached picture here?)
Isn't it beauty? :D

Bought a sheet of metal with holes, normally for storage tools. But it is 1,5mm (0,06 inch?) thick, not that cheap thin crap.
Also bought 4 rubber parts with screws, so the vibrations of the inverter should not be transmitted by the wall.
Then, recycled the grey metal with the Classics and mounted the fuses and so on on it.
Mounted the heavy inverter in the lower part of the "tool metal sheet" (that's again, where my English skills ends ... sorry!)

I bought used batteries, let them send the batteries to a guy who is repairing forklifts, he was checking the batteries, they are all good, he said.
He has a lot work, but we hope he can will bring them next week to me and we will see....

The batteries are from ATEC but the company doesn't reply to my emails. I was asking for datasheet of the batteries.
but they will sure have the same values like other batteries (5 EPZS 575 Ah)

Also I have to build something, that collects the gas of the batteries, if they charge or equalize, so we don't "burn down the house" haha
I am thinking about a cover with pipes on it, and a vacuum pump that blows the collected air to outside the house.
But I want to add a "electrolyte circulation" - they say, that is better. I believe that. Don't have to equalize the batteries that much.

So ... let's see how this journey ends :D

I think you can just do a longer absorb cycle every ten days instead of equalize to stir up the electrolyte in a flooded lead acid battery.
So just use equalize but put in Absorb  setpoints every 10 days .
Your control  panel looks incredibly neat and organized.

Larry

Thanks ;)
Yes thats my cryptonite - I could spend hours and hours for building i.e. a PC Tower or like that :D


thanks about the settings, will try to set this, when I have the batteries installed and the Classics are alive again ;)

I would have to have all my setup on a swing out panel to get it that neat! ::)
Good job!

Hey buddies, once again, an update.

In one picture (I didn't get it, how to place an attached image in the post...) you see my arrangement with now finally arrived and installed covers for my battery boxes.
Made of aluminium, we had over at work. Recycling is everything (and saves so much money haha)

Other picture shows the opening i had to make for the tubes and cable.

I am still so happy with this solution!  :)

Next steps are to paint the covers and/or cover them with adhesive foil 
and I have to move the shunt a bit more right, so the cable on the left is a bit better installed.
Then a cover for the shunt and fuse area.

So because the boxes are now closed, like I planed it, possible gas is sucked out ("vacuumed"?) with two tubes in the boxes, come together by a Y-piece
and a small pump in the room next door blowing it to the outside of the house.
It is a 12V DC pump, like you use it for inflatable mattress, feeded with a step-down converter, set to 3 Volts, works silent and perfect.

So ... (there is so much dust on this forum topic) ...

But, if someone is interested, my "5 EPzS" blew up on last friday.
I am still not sure how this happened, my best guess is the airpump (or how you call it in English) that moves the gases in hoses to outside the building.

(see attached pictures)

Thank God no one was hurt, I was in the "boiler room" next door and the door was closed.
Don't want to think about what could happen if I stood next to it...
Suddenly a really loud bang and after a shocked moment, I open the door and I saw the mess ... and big clouds of acid from the batteries.

I am sure, the insurance will pay nothing, as I changed so many things in the system (they would pay, if the origin installation would have burned the house down)


Now I am thinking about buying some LiFePo4 "Server Rack" modules.

I guess, this is the best energy storage option today and also a safe option.


Now looking for a company that has the knowledge to remove the old battery, my most concern are the open cells ...
I don't dare lift the cells by the connectors now ...


But, the EPzS worked well the last 5 years... rest in pieces.


I also found informations and a good video how to setup the Classics for LiFePo4
still searching for the change of a registry entry in the Classic we did ... or will it all be reset zu factory when I programm the firmware again?
Will see.


I hope everyone is ok and avoided any covid contact, stay healthy! :)

Wow - glad you weren't in there.
My neighbor had a lead acid L16 battery explode a couple years ago.
I think in his case was because he didn't maintain them and my guess is electrolyte got too low in a cell and then while charging a spark across the exposed plates - boom !
You could dump a lot of baking soda on them and neutralize the acid. If it was me I would take the battery box apart  or cut open a long side , then just a dolly to wheel the cells out and load them on a truck or trailer to take to scrap yard .
I just bought a Jakiper 48v server rack battery. There are a lot of them imported in the usa now and more coming to other companies.
https://jakiperbattery.com/product/jk48v100/
There are three companies that have the same bms front display and probably same type cells - Signature Solar, Jakiper, and SOK .
good source of discussion is this group about lithium .  https://diysolarforum.com/
I was just reading about people on there saying their cheap mppt controllers did something goofy and sent PV voltage direct to lithium battery and the bms failed and some cells swelled up but with lifepo4 that was extent of damage - no explosion or fire.  They thought that the BMS should have protected their battery but others told them that a bms had an upper voltage limit and putting 90 v pv into bms fries the fet closed - not the problem of bms  that was zapped so hard with overvoltage well beyond it's operating rating.
Larry

Yes correct, that was really not the BMS fault. It protects the cells well, but this is a special situation - no one can expect this happening.
Blaming the BMS for that failure is absolutely wrong.

I am really so happy with the Classic 200. How long do I have them now ... 2015 - today? 7 years. Today it is really hard to find a device, that lasts so long... ;)
That was one of the best choices I made.


This is the one I am thinking about to buy:
Page: https://www.sunstonepower.de/products/48v-200ah-lifepo4-batterie-96wh-akkus-fur-solaranlage-haus-mit-lcd
Image: https://imgv2.staticdj.com/498955e1a5b8923baaaaa21d1b2d2ef5_1080x.jpg

I studied a lot of offers, shops, also Aliexpress, China shops, and US shops.
But the shipping time, shipping costs, ... and import taxes ... and if I have a problem, they are all far away.
Many shops are in back-order, so the choice of batteries is a little bit limited.
But the linked battery looks good to me, the price is close to the price, if I import a battery. And I have a local seller, if I have a problem.
(but I have to ask the seller, if this battery has a web ui, so I can check it on my computer browser)


A point, that is unclear to me is, how I can use both Classics the same time on the LiFePo4 battery.
I have read some topics here in the forum, but didn't find one, like my situation.

In the actual setup, one Classic has 12 modules East, the other has 12 modules South (each 2800Wp)
The WBJr. is connected to the South Classic, because this Classic charges after the East Classic.
Both are in parallel to the inverter and the battery.
While I had the lead acid, that was no issue.

I really start from zero again - I forgot most things ... I must read the manual again ... :)
The are not in "follow me".

Now I have to take more care about the voltages and amps (charging to reach the 54 volts, then charging with 54 volts max. 50 amps normaly, maximum 100 amps)
This is not a big deal with one Classic. But I have two ...
Or should I reduce it to only one Classic?

Or, If I set the East Classic to only start the charging with fixed voltage and rising amps (oh my English is so bad again, sorry it is too late)
and the South Classic starts the charging process with both states? So the wouldn't come into a conflict?

mh ... then is the SOC ... the South Classic reads the amps, so it should be able to calculate it.


I will also look at the link https://diysolarforum.com/ , thank you ;)

That battery you linked looks exactly like the one I just got - probably from same manufacture in China and maybe same cells in it.
Except that one you show is a beast at twice the capacity of mine which is 100 ah - and yours is 200 ah.
Wonder if you could get two 100 ah at same price - would certainly be easier to move ! Mine was 100 pounds ( not sure in kg what that is) .
And you wouldn't have all your eggs in one basket .
Anyway you can look for similar battery tear down on youtube I will get you link.
one company has their cells welded together - the others have bolt on studs which I would rather have in case ever need to swap a cell in future for some reason.
Also I just discovered that the bms in yours and mine is probably this manufactuer and maybe same or similar to details in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkDIuMpIx_8
you see in this the face looks almost identical to the one you linked
https://youtu.be/j_pqNmGfRdc
Larry

yes they all look very similar, only in some details changed, like with or w/o lcd or with or w/o breaker and in other places in the front plate.


Yes that's true, having multiple batteries might be better. If one goes bye bye, I have the other "eggs in the nest" ;)

The price for a 5kWh is about 2.000â,¬ and the 10kWh is 3.560â,¬
(troday â,¬ and $ are very close)

kilos - a "over the thumb calculation" is, kilos = 1/2 of pound , then this number minus 10% (not really exactly, but very close) ;-)


I have now also asked the seller, if the battery has a WebUI. It doesn't have ;(
I have seen this in videos, that some batteries have this WebUi. In this WebUI you can see the cells, volts and temps., change settings...

Now I have asked him, if there is a "Modbus" or similar, like we have this on your Classics. So I can get the datas, and possible add it to the display (like my LCARS, thanks to Wade)


I hope, I'm doing the right thing with the LiFePo4...
There is a point you feel lost ...

But when the old batteries are once gone, I have clean up everything, checked the Classics, inverter and that all, I can go the next step.

Well the similar looking batteries here in USA that have displays show all the individual cell voltages and the internal sensor temperatures, soc, cycles, etc.
The last batches that they were selling did not have displays, and now they are importing the ones with displays that seem to be newer generation bms .
And there is a software that you can use to see the same data and maybe more ( I haven't tried it yet ).
So maybe the batteries you are looking at don't have the same bms in them ?
But if they spit out data on those ports there may be a way to get all that data onto a computer.
If the LifePO4 cells are as good as is usually claimed then you won't go wrong compared to lead acid - so many advantages in more usable energy , stable output voltage, longer cycle life, etc.
Not to mention the best thing - not having to mess around with watering them, checking electrolyte, etc !
I think the bms in a lot of these are made by Seplos and they have youtube videos by them explaining how they work.
https://youtu.be/KkDIuMpIx_8

Larry

So ... the old batteries are gone now.
Cool guy picked them up from the basement ("cellar"?) and now I can start cleaning up and start setting up the Classics for coming batteries.


I have watched his video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YsE1JPGg7Co
In the datasheet of the batteries I am interested in is written:
Charging volts: 54,0V +/-0,2V
Systemvoltage: 48,0 V
Cut off volts: 37,5 V (it will never be so low, as the inverter switches back at min. 46V or 47V, depends my setting on the inverter.
If I have seen it correct in discharging kurves, 46 or 47 Volts is still safe, but close to the point, when the LiFePo4 will be empty very soon.
I think, I will start switching back to grid at 48 Volts and see, how the batteries are doing.
If they are not so deep discharged, they should last longer. If I can use 47V, I will take this too. But between 48 and 47Volts will not be much energy I can use? So 48V should be good?

The charging amps is 50 Amps and maximum 100 Amps.



I have now setup both Classics (connected to a 13.8V PSU) in the Status Panel:

Basic:
48 Volts Battery
Absorb: 54 Volts (but I am not sure about the time? ShouldnÃ,,t matter, because the BMS is doing the charging.)
Equalize: 54 Volts (can't be lower) Time = 00:00 , no auto. So never happens.
Float volts: has set itself to  53,9 Volts

Advanced
- I use a WBJr. only on the South Classic, not on the East Classic as this will not make sens (was the topic back then)

Compensate EQ volts, not needed.
Temp window is still 20°C
Compensation shows 54 Volts.


Battery status meter: I have no datas, so I set it to 100% for now. 90% might be a good value for LiFepo4?
and as I plan to use 2 x 200Ah, I set it to 400Ah (old System was 575Ah)
and no compensation %/C


Tech
MPPT Mode: is still on 5 min sweep (ok?)
Ending Amps - I am not sure, it is still at 11,5 Amps.
It is active on the South Classic, as the WBJr. is connected to it only.

Rebulk Volts: 54 Volt

Days between rebulk: 0

Offsets are all 0


FOLLOW ME ...
Does it make sense to "Follow Master's Battery Sensor"? Or is this only in combination with 'Follow me'

(yes I still havn't read the manual again ... please be patience with me ;)



Correct me, if I am wrong, please:

The normal charging current is 50 Amps per battery. They can also handle 100 Amps.
One Classic has a max. charging amps of 79 Amps. I set them to 50 amps.
If one Classic charges, both batteries will get 25 amps.
If both Classics are sharging with 50 amps, there are 100 amps on the wire, but each battery will only get 50 amps.
Also if the 50 amps will be exceeded, there is a big buffer to the 100 amps maximum.

So I only need to set it to a fix voltage of 54 volts, and the bms will do the rest.


The BMS has 2 stages.
#1 constant amps to reach 54 volts. (will it draw amps until it is below 54 volts and knows how much amps are available tio charge?)
#2 54 volts constant charging, until the charging amps are 10 amps

Chargig time is 5hrs ("as a refference")

Quote from: ClassicCrazy on April 02, 2022, 01:47:16 PM
Well the similar looking batteries here in USA that have displays show all the individual cell voltages and the internal sensor temperatures, soc, cycles, etc.
The last batches that they were selling did not have displays, and now they are importing the ones with displays that seem to be newer generation bms .
And there is a software that you can use to see the same data and maybe more ( I haven't tried it yet ).

I am waiting fpr a reply from the seller, if there is a software.
But I would like to try it ;)

I was also thinking about the connectors the batteries have.
But it would need someone knowing hoe to programm it, could use a ESP32 and connect it to the CAN or COM of the batteries, the ESP32 hooks in the Wifi and I could get the datas on this way?
The batteries have no Lan ;(

Quote
So maybe the batteries you are looking at don't have the same bms in them ?

When I have the batteries, I can open the case and make some pictures ;)

Quote
But if they spit out data on those ports there may be a way to get all that data onto a computer.

EPS32 or a PI - but someone will have to write the programms ;(

Quote
If the LifePO4 cells are as good as is usually claimed then you won't go wrong compared to lead acid - so many advantages in more usable energy , stable output voltage, longer cycle life, etc.
Not to mention the best thing - not having to mess around with watering them, checking electrolyte, etc !
I think the bms in a lot of these are made by Seplos and they have youtube videos by them explaining how they work.
https://youtu.be/KkDIuMpIx_8

Larry

yes I have seen the kurves of discharge, the acid batteries can't hold their voltage so long :(
That often lead to the switch back to grid ("Peukert"), but there was energy left in the battery.

Thanks for the link :)

I am still studying all the info on lithium batteries.
Lots of different schemes and opinions out there.
Read some info posted on the forums here from Steve S for reference and comparisons
http://midniteftp.com/forum/index.php?topic=5690.0
http://midniteftp.com/forum/index.php?topic=5751.msg52489#msg52489
http://midniteftp.com/forum/index.php?board=63.0

Larry

Now still waiting for my bank...
Should be ok this week.

I kept an eye on the 10kWh battery ... the seller doesn't reply anymore to my questions, after I asked him about the possibility to have a look to the BMS via a browser, like other batteries have. He told me it has not but I had some more questions.

I am new on this topic and before I buy something I want to know exactly, what I get and how to use it.
And after the price raised now from 3.560 to 3.780 Euros, he can keep them. Not the game I play.
Seriously?
His 5kWh battery is sold out now and he increases the price for the 10kWh battery.


There is a small solution for the monitoring: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IlExe2zcifM (german video, but link to a page: https://averagemaker.com/2018/03/wemos-d1-mini-setup.html and Github: https://github.com/irekzielinski/Pylontech-Battery-Monitoring)


I first thought, that could work with the 10kWh battery. But they have a regular dis-/charging amps of only 50 amps and 100 amps for short time.

So I was searching for other batteries. Hard to get some, most are sold out or too expensive.
I also saw a offer of the Pylontech. They are probably also widespread and better known and the ESP (monitoring) works with this BMS.

Also in a talk with another EV driver yesterday it would make more sense to go with more then one battery.
Like my first ideas to this and it was recommended to me before.

And I don't have to think about max. amps and so on, I have a redunancity with more then one battery.
The Pylontech US3000C only have 3.5kWh, but if I install 3 or 4 of them that should work?

Before buying these, I explained the shop seller what I plan to do to get his opinion.
(if later something is wrong, I can recall him his opinion)
Let's wait for his answer :D

I was just looking around on the Wiring Diagrams page  https://www.midnitesolar.com/documentsA.php?menuItem=documents&docCat_ID=31&docCatName=Wiring%20Diagrams%20-%20SMA%20/%20PDF ... is there a way to connect the Classic to the LiFePo4 BMS?
There is a "COM ADAPTER" in the drawings ... mh...
(I am sure I missunderstand something but this let me wake up for a moment :) )


The batteries have an contact for "stop charging" - I could parallel wire them from the batteries to both classics (via a 2 switched contact relais. I am sure I can't directly connect the AUX on the Classics in parallel)
So if one battery is full charged, it can stop both Classics to stop chagring
But is this needed? The BMS will stop the charging.

I spent long time yesterday just making long cables and adapters to plug into the new jakiper battery I have.
Finally I got the supplied windows  software to work on the RS232 jack  on battery  to computer with usb to rs232 adapter.
I had no success getting data so far from the rs485 jacks on it. But I think I realize now that it needs polling from modbus software to get it to talk.
Just tonight I found this project https://github.com/KlausLi/Esp-Seplos-Controller
and if you get a battery that has the Seplos type this may work for you too.
It is all in German but I translated and flashed an esp8266 with his program and will try it  tomorrow on bms . I already had the rs485 adapter he showed ( used them on my peacefair energy monitors) He has youtube videos on it too but of course I can't understand it too much.
Larry

Quote from: binkino on April 05, 2022, 08:31:56 PM
I was just looking around on the Wiring Diagrams page  https://www.midnitesolar.com/documentsA.php?menuItem=documents&docCat_ID=31&docCatName=Wiring%20Diagrams%20-%20SMA%20/%20PDF ... is there a way to connect the Classic to the LiFePo4 BMS?
There is a "COM ADAPTER" in the drawings ... mh...
(I am sure I missunderstand something but this let me wake up for a moment :) )


The batteries have an contact for "stop charging" - I could parallel wire them from the batteries to both classics (via a 2 switched contact relais. I am sure I can't directly connect the AUX on the Classics in parallel)
So if one battery is full charged, it can stop both Classics to stop chagring
But is this needed? The BMS will stop the charging.

There was big discussion on the solar diy group about ways to shut off charging to battery. But with good controller like Classic you may not need to . A few people seem to have had  problems with some cheap mppt controllers giving full pv voltage way over the bms rating and ruining batteries.

Larry

yes sounds also interesting, let me know how it works


I asked the guy in the video.
There is only one ESP needed, because the batteries are connected to each other with the data cable and the ESP gets all datas of all batteries from one BMS.



I have now updated both Classics to latest 2193 firmware (yes this is 4 years old now haha)
I played around in the menu, I remember there was something with voice. 'Test' did nothing , only displaying 'TEST' in the LCD.
But this doesn't matter. I didn't want this feature, so I didn't do the update 4 years ago when the version was available. (Beep Sound works, I tested this)
As there is still nothing more I can do, I cleaned the housing of the Classics, now look like new again.
The silver paint is gone, because of the battery acid, but no drops came into the classics (I have seen no damages / corrosions / things that look not normal)




Yes the Classic are robust ;)
I have them now since end of 2014?
Hard to find devices today they last that long :D

There is a voice data file that you have to also load into the Classic mngp to get it to talk. Somewhere there is a topic where it has  the links to those files.
The voice is useful and also not useful and can be a bother.
It is useful if you want to know what your Classic is doing - it will tell you if you are in the area.
There are some time limits so it won't talk at night or too early that you can set.
Midnite programmed in some funny sound effects on one of the modes , though some of them can startle you if you don't know what it is from.
I leave the talker on out in the shed on classic there  , but I have another mngp remoted inside and I have that voice turned off.
There was another beta update that got rid of an annoying tone every time you pressed a button when in talking mode version 2197 . Midnite never officially released that one but it is on forums somewhere and I have been using it long time. Maybe they incorporated tone noise change into the released version ? Not sure.
Larry

When a Li battery is full, you only have minutes to stop the charging before battery damage occurs.
  The BMS can do this, but only in a "brute force" way by disconnecting the battery.   

When the BMS disconnects the battery, the loads ( Batt ) on the solar charge controllers "vanishes" and leaves the battery terminals disconnected/floating, only connected to the inverter's battery terminals.  some controllers and inverters can handle this abuse  ( batt connection rising to 97VDC or whatever your PV Voc is )  Some can't.

Same sort of thing being overly discharged, the BMS only cares about saving the battery, the rest of the system goes dark.  Maybe you wake up and fix it before sun comes up and lights up the panels. 

Some BMS will reconnect automatically, some need a reset button pushed, some need a computer to reset them

ok thank you, Mike

so what can I do to use these batteries?

Please help my thoughts :)

The charging starts on the East Classic in the morning. Let's say the charging voltage is 54 volts.
The BMS in the batteries regulates the charging process untill the 100% SOC is reached and stop charging.
Don't they have a circuit for charging (that is open then) and one circuit for energy delivering?

The Classic can recognise, if the charging amps fall below let's say 10 amps and stop the charging (the South Classic is using the WBJr)

But my East Classic has no WBJr. (I have one in the box, but something in the past was about the Classics wouldn't count the energy correct? So long ago)

If "charging" stops, the voltage must drop to xx volts? (Float?)

So should I install and use the second WBJr. to enable the East Classic stop charging?

I could FOLLOW ME connect them, but I also don't remember why in my situation I shouldn't do it back then...


But this is also a complete new situation.


---------------

My system:
1 Classic 200 lite for East
1 Classic 200 für South with WBJr.
The WBJr. for meassuring the ending of the charging process, as it charges after the East Classic.

as far as I know, every BMS is different, and you will have to research exactly how your chosen model will behave.   But most will have a trigger signal to command a charge controller to terminate charging.   But thats more wires and maybe relays and such.

2 days ago I described my situation and system to the shop that sells the 3.5kWh Pylontec modules
Today they reply, that this would work.
But I am still waiting for my bank...

so, today they sold the last of the batteries I wanted.

NEVER rely on Postbank, if you are in a situation to need quick financial help.
They advertice to make this in 2 days possible. But it is allways a special situation, so many customers... yeah ...sure.
Everytime.

So now I have all time in the world.

frustrated.

please correct my thought if I am wrong (hope I write it in not a too wrong English... so you understand it haha)


Let's say I find a battery with max charging amps of 50 amps.


The East Classic is limited to 50 amps, has no WBJr. All is fine, it outputs max. 50 amp.
Energy needed by the intverter, decreases the amps for charging amps from the East Classic, but that doesn't matter.

The South Classic has the WBJr. and is also set to max. 50 amps for charging.
The WBJr. on the South Classic meassures the amps flowing to the battery.
If the East Classic delivers full 50 amps, and ~ 45 amps arrive to the battery, the South Classic will only output so many amps, that it stays below or max. the 50 amps at the WBJr.
If the East Classic falls below 50 amps, the South Classic will increase the amps, but stops at 50 amps at the WBJr.


As the wanted batteries are sold out, I am now looking for other batteries in a range I still have the cash and can expand that later. But can use the system again, asap the sun is back ... actually only raining and small storms ...
May be a 5kWh at ~ 2.000,- â,¬ ... will see.

To me it seems like you want to put your two Classics in Follow me so that when the battery is full according to your voltage limits , then it shuts off charging for the day.
I am still trying to understand the whole lithium charging schemes.
You are probably wise to get some lithium batteries now because some of the suppliers here in USA are advertising coming price increases .
There are a lot of details involved in the lithium battery packs now for sale. They type of cells that they use, the type of bms they have, support , etc.
But some of it is a bit of a gamble I think since how can anyone truly know what they have until they get it. There are usa lithium battery companies that put their own batteries together and test everything and are sure of their suppliers. But their batteries cost probably 2 to 4 times as much or more . In the end you can only go by what is really available on the market , the amount of $$$ willing to spend which also relates to the risk we are willing to take for the lower cost imports.
I read comments on some of the tear down videos and people really trust some of the people doing the tear downs even though they have been getting the sample batteries for free from companies. They also may be getting some income from their promotion. So we have to take everything into consideration. The tear down info is valuable, but the testing done is minimal.
It just kind of sucks though if we find out we passed up a good deal, but it also sucks if we got a product that does not hold up over the years.
Hard choices for those with limited $$ resources !
Larry

thanks ;)

I am still not sure about the FOLLOW ME, I also haven't take the time to read the manual again..

What do you think about these SOK Batteries? They ship a unit for 80,-
and have a white case :D
But a 5 kWh for 2.100 is not a bad price
But ... also no batteries in stock. Not a single one...
June back in stock... I wrote them an email and asked, if there is a way to get at least one unit now.
(There is allways something in stock. Just in case of a warranty claim and so on )
And the have hood looking terninals, not these mysterious connectors like the Pylontech and have to buy their expensive calbes ...

Quote from: binkino on April 09, 2022, 10:07:40 AM
thanks ;)

I am still not sure about the FOLLOW ME, I also haven't take the time to read the manual again..

What do you think about these SOK Batteries? They ship a unit for 80,-
and have a white case :D
But a 5 kWh for 2.100 is not a bad price
But ... also no batteries in stock. Not a single one...
June back in stock... I wrote them an email and asked, if there is a way to get at least one unit now.
(There is allways something in stock. Just in case of a warranty claim and so on )
And the have hood looking terninals, not these mysterious connectors like the Pylontech and have to buy their expensive calbes ...

SOK are supposed to be good batteries.
Youtube channels with tear downs.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCoj6RxIAQq8kmJme-5dnN0Q
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCh85wOuqCsD3gh_lkAXbQEQ
https://www.youtube.com/c/CurrentConnected

yes 👍
I think, I will order them.

... 2 month without PV ...

nothing is having progress over here ...

i am tired now ... just thinking about taking 4 x 50Ah car 12v batteries, cost about 200,-
In the night it will switch back to grid.
But that would be better then having the system complete offline.

Actually I am paying 31ct/kWh (my contract ends in 01/2023, so it will be more expensive after.
Everything is getting more and more  expensive now)
But 200,- equals 650kWh electric energy
And they will not last long. But if I setup the system to run only on daylight, it might work for this year.

Around here they sell a marine type deep cycle 12v battery for around $80 . Maybe rated 80 to 100 AH.
Probably not the best but would be a lot better than car battery - in case you can find some like that there.
I think the market for them is for people with boats - they use them to run electric trolling motors .
Too bad you aren't in US there are so many choices now for lithium batteries. Many are in stock.
Larry

consider 6V 200Ah golf cart batteries.   Do they play golf anywhere near by, buy the batteries from the Clubhouse.

Quote from: binkino on April 09, 2022, 10:07:40 AM
thanks ;)

   ...   What do you think about these SOK Batteries? They ship a unit for 80,-
and have a white case :D
But a 5 kWh for 2.100 is not a bad price
But ... also no batteries in stock. Not a single one...
June back in stock... I wrote them an email and asked, if there is a way to get at least one unit now.
(There is allways something in stock. Just in case of a warranty claim and so on )
And the have hood looking terninals, not these mysterious connectors like the Pylontech and have to buy their expensive calbes ...

Hi binkino,

I have no personal experience with any server rack batteries.

First,  the construction of the SOK server batts looks beautiful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrPED4uPsFw

But, at 1:20 into the above video, Will Prowse details what needs to be done to Precharge filter capacitors (at least with larger inverters).  This a bit concerning to me  --  it seems that this should be a gentle, automatic process.

Some of us might forget to do the manual Precharge, when the lights have gone out at 2 AM, and we are anxious to get an inverter going again, after some fault, or something.

You might want to specifically ask the Distributor/supplier about this exact thing.  From what I've seen on Will's youtube videos for some SOK 12 V LiFePO4 batteries,  there was a reference to BMS FETs having been damaged from Precharge.  Some other suppliers of server batteries, have noted that, Precharge on their server batts IS automatic.

SOK appears to be a very good battery,  and I have been strongly considering buying some of their server rack batteries   ...   but would want to understand more about why this Precharge is not happening, automatically.

FWIW, Good Luck, Vic

Vic ,
From Jakiper - I think it should be same for SOK if it has same bms in it.
1 BMS off and Main battery breaker off
2 Connect inverter cables to battery
3 Turn battery breaker on
4 Turn on Bms
5 Turn on Main breaker if you have more than 1 pcs/ Inverter/

I asked for clarification on step 5 though . Not sure if it means extra batteries or if that is where you first turn on breaker for the inverter ?
I would think inverter would already have breakers on  in Step 2

Larry

Hi Larry,

Thanks for the info on Jakiper and other similar server rack batts.

If the ONLY time that the precharge must be done, is when commissioning the inverter, this does seem less risky to the BMS.

Quality inverters,  essentially never trip DC breakers on the battery side (or on the AC output side), if those breakers are correctly-sized.

BUT, it still seems to be a risk to the BMS, and it would seem, to me, at least, that this process should be fully automatic, unless, there is NO risk of harm to the BMS from not following the Precharge procedure.  Would believe, that these LiFePO4 server rack battery manufacturers would not mention a manual Precharge, if there was NO risk to the BMS, or battery, from not doing manual Precharge ...

Realize that, probably those who have been building and using Li batteries with power inverters, have been doing manual Precharge, all along.

Dunno,  back to regular programming.   Take care, thanks, Vic

so ... a small "update" in my situation ...

btw HAPPY EASTER ;-)


After a long time struggeling with me, wich of the last two options I choose, I decited zu buy the 10kWh battery pack (relabeled "ROSEN SOLAR")
I pick them up tomorrow noon. 300kms (190mi) to drive, yeah I know that should do it right and drive with my EV - also as the gas price is absolutely insane ... but this time I don't have the time (My Renault Zoe only has the small 22kWh battery. I choose this model and battery, as I don't need the 41kWh daily and would be a wast of ressources and money (I rent the battery)) so I must "bite in the sour apple" anyway - as we use to say.

There was also another offer from a private seller, but over 600km (3375mi) away from my home, that is close to the barrier to Noreway in Germany and too far to drive haha
And sending 2.500,- to someone I don't know, had a very tired conversation (replies all couple days - so not interested to sell the batteries? Pylontech ... and yesterday I received a warning message from ebay-kleinanzeigen (like craigslist), that the user was banned and some possible reassons why this happened ... you don't get real details ...)
Nope, I will not.


So two days ago I decited to buy the 10kWh battery, phoned the seller and made an appointment for picking the batetry up. So let's hope everything goes well.


There should be a instruction manual included, then I can confirm the steps how to bring such a battery in operation.
But I remember I have read that already like you write it.

I will  link the battery, after I have it in my house.

Weight: 100 kilos (220pounds...)

---

---

I just translated the site http://www.midniteftp.com/support/kb/faq.php?id=75 to German - if someone reads this here and want's to add it in the help section:

QuoteCLASSIC - LITHIUM - Wie stellt man den Classic so ein, dass er Lithiumbatterien lädt (archiviert)?
Zuletzt aktualisiert vor 7 Monaten
Ãœbersetzt ins Deutsche am 18.04.2022 von Binkino


Der Classic hat keine native Unterstützung für das Laden von Lithium-Akkupacks. Alles, was man tun kann ist, einige der Blei-Säure-Batterien-Einstellungen zu verwenden.

Der Classic kann Lithium-Akkupacks aufladen, die ein BMS (Battery Management System) installiert haben. Wir empfehlen und unterstützen das Laden von Lithium-Akkupacks ohne BMS nicht. „Balancer“ gelten nicht als BMS.

Die ABSORB-Einstellung ist die Spannung, die das BMS zum Laden der Batterie verlangt. Die ABSORBIERUNGSZEIT wird auf die benötigte Zeit in Minuten eingestellt. Manchmal wird dies auf einen niedrigen Wert eingestellt, da einige Lithiumbatterien (BMS) bei Erreichen dieser Spannung den Ladevorgang beenden möchten. Beim Classic ist die Minimumzeit 3 Minuten.
Die EQ-Einstellung wird im Allgemeinen nicht verwendet.

HINWEIS: Für den Ladevorgang ist hauptsächlich das BMS der Batterie zuständig. Der Classic kann nicht so eingerichtet werden, dass sichergestellt ist, dass JEDE Zelle korrekt geladen wird. Das Überladen einer Lithiumzelle kann katastrophale, sowie auch wirtschaftliche Folgen haben.

Die meisten Lithium-Batterien benötigen keine FLOAT-Spannung. Also muss diese auf einen niedrigeren Wert, also unterhalb der BMS Ladespannung, eingestellt werden. Weitere Informationen sind im zur Batterie dazu gehörigen Lithium-BMS-Handbuch zu finden. Es ist üblich, dass der Classic BATT OVER V meldet, was aber kein Grund zur Sorge ist. Dies bedeutet nur, dass die Batteriespannung über der FLOAT-Einstellung liegt und das Laden jetzt deaktiviert ist.

Der Classic hat jetzt ein paar weitere Funktionen, die für Lithium-Batteriesysteme von Nutzen sein können.
Lithium-Batterien benötigen im Allgemeinen keine Temperaturkompensation, wie Blei-Säure-Batterien. Das Einstellen von mV/degC/cell auf den niedrigsten Wert, ohne die Einstellung auf DISABLE umzustellen, ist ungefähr alles, was wir im Moment tun können. Dadurch funktioniert der BTS (Batterietemperatursensor) weiterhin und dies ermöglicht es uns, im LIMITS-MENÜ unter dem CHARGE-Menü im Classic eine Notfalltemperatur für HIGH BATTERY SHUTDOWN ("HOHE BATTERIEABSCHALTUNG") einzustellen. Wenn diese Temperatur gemessen wird, stoppt der Classic den Ladevorgang, um schlimmere Folgen zu verhindern.

Das andere Verwendungsmerkmal für Lithium und sein BMS ist der AUX-2-EINGANG, um den Classic zu zwingen, den Ladevorgang zu stoppen. Er wird im Handbuch als LOGIC INPUT LO und LOGIC INPUT HI beschrieben. Siehe das angehängte PDF.

Viele Lithium-Systeme verlangen, dass der Ladevorgang beim erreichen einer Spannung stoppt und bei einer anderen Spannung wieder beginnt. Dies würde erreicht, indem die ABSORBZEIT auf 4 Minuten eingestellt wird (3 Minuten ist die niedrigste Einstellung) und die REBULK-Spannung verwendet wird, um den Classic aufzufordern, wieder zu laden. REBULK wird im BATTERY MENU/ADVANCED. ABSORB TIME (BATTERIEMENÜ/ERWEITERT ABSORB TIME") wird unter CHGTIME eingestellt.

I will also try this project:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IlExe2zcifM
https://averagemaker.com/2018/03/wemos-d1-mini-setup.html
https://github.com/irekzielinski/Pylontech-Battery-Monitoring

It could work with the BMS ... as we thought earlier, there are not many BMSes out there.
And really they all look very similar.
On the 10kWh wall mount battery I plan to buy the only difference is the display (same buttons also) is located in the front face and the connectors are located at the underside.

Possible one guy in our Telegram Renault Zoe (EV) group can help me out to do the neccessary changes to the ESP program, so I can read out this BMS.
(yes, I will publish the code if changes were needed)

But this can't be that hard. Addresses and datas to sort out, what is what.

I have already ordered the parts... so fingers crossed :D

@VIC: yes that's also a concern I have.
My inverter can go in protect mode, if I overload it accidently again :D
Microwave, washing machine, coffee machine the same time, that happens ...
The inverter only can do 3.000 watts ...
So I had to go down in the basement/cellar (however the right term is it now...) and reset it manualy.
I bought a remote (a stupid switch, LEDs panel) I wanted to convert, so I can reset it by an Aux from the classic... but never done.
Interesting then to know, If I have to follow this pcocedere then also with the battery.
The inverter 48V side caps should still be charged ...

For the settings for the 10kWh battery I have the attached datasheet

I can go up to 100 Amps in dis/charging (so also later I can change to a more powerfull inverter with no problems)
and the charging volts are 52,50 to 54,75 volts.

I will start at 52,5 volts and limit each classic to 40 amps.
Start with end amps at 10, and try out what's the best value.
Then observe it's behaviour and do small changes.

This battery doesnät have "dry contacts" ... why ever ... possible it is just unpolupalted and inside the battery on the BMS PCB.
But hope I donät need them ;)

We also thought about, to add s routine to the ESP program, that gives a signal out, can be connected to a relais, that is connected to the classic, to stop charging ...

Just thoughts.

Some thoughts on the battery you are getting.
I notice they only use 15 cells instead of 16 like many other packs on market.
So  your settings will be a bit different that what others have been using or talking about on some forums ( you will be able to subtract one cell voltage to compare though ).
Not so sure that software you linked may work with the bms you are getting - guess you will find out.
That may be a Seplos type bms , if it is then the esp project that the other german guy linked earlier in discussion may work with the esp8266 - though you would need a rs485 converter board if you went to rs-485 port. But that esp software may work via the rs-232 port too - not sure on that.
He had a nice webpage interface on his compared to the one that you just linked.
Larry

Yes thanks, that's correct, there are only 15 in series. A bit disappointing, as 16S would have a bit more energy and small more voltage range.
My inverter switches back to grid at 47 volts...
But it is like it is now, better then nothing. Makes no sense to wait and search any longer :)

Yes so the voltage for charging is lower, 52,50 to 54,75 volts.

Thanks ;)


The ESP is designed to get the datas via the serial port, so the MAX3232 is there to "translate" the datas (voltages...) ... I am interested how it will work :)

so far, so good.

Today I picked up the battery.

Brought it in the basement (cellar?) and first try to activate it was a fail endet in a lit error led.
mh... after some tries, I removed the screw fuses from the 48v line of each Classic.
Then the inverter also started. Great.
So this battery does no "pre charge" and goes in protect mode, if the ballast on torning on is too high?
Anyhow. The caps were then enough charged so I had no more problems.
But good to know and I have to remember this for in the future.

The seller also told me, inside it is the same like the Pylontech.
Ok, what we assumed.

Today also the D1 MINI arrived, but not the MAX3232.
So I only can test trying to install the software on it today and find a western RJ plug with cable (phone line) sure have a lot in a box ... from the old times haha


Looks clean now, much better.
Tomorrow I will have to get up early again and watch it while charging so if something goes wrong I can quick react


Some pictures in attachment

Glad you got your battery and installed already !
You can probably try a windows software ( unless you run apple stuff )  from seplos in the rs232 port - just use a usb to rs232 adapter if you have one and then make the connections from that to the phone plug as it showed in your other wiring diagram .
Worth a try .
Larry

yes thank you ;)


but ... dumb me ... I didn't realize, that I only have RS485/CAN there (dough where is the facepalm smiley...)

There is a short video in the post:
https://www.youtube.com/post/UgkxoF_q-Jn4-o3sNTcU8nIUuEJmOb9R4kW_

I also had to wire the relay in the power line to the inverter, as this dumb thing only switches to battery, if the battery voltage has reached 56,8 volts. (I forgot this...) so quickly rewired it again.
I thought, I don't need this anymore. Yes, was teached better when I found out (again) haha



Last night I also found this (german) forum page:
https://www.photovoltaikforum.com/thread/130061-pylontech-us2000b-daten-protokolle-programme/?postID=1748895#post1748895

and this:
http://www.multisibcontrol.net/
"MultiSIBControl is a software tool for monitoring and control of PIP/Axpert inverters and Pylon tech batteries."


Now I have to look for a Can solution.

The MAX3232 haven't arrived yet, I could cancel the order, but ... who knows, one day they come in handy.

Here is esp to 485 hookup video I made.
It is for PZEM-017 energy monitor but should be the same setup for your rs485 port. This I used adapter board as shown in video.
You could also use usb to rs485 converter directly to your computer - those are only a few bucks.
I have a canbus board ordered but haven't gotten it yet so never tried that port.
https://youtu.be/TbLLrlZ3deI

Larry

Hey thanks ;)

Still watching your videos

(I am "A68k" in YT)


This shown converter could make the ESPs I have not useless, so ordered some of them now :)

Then I have the USB one and these boards and I can try different ways.

This MQTT could be a good way to send the datas to the PI (collects datas from the Classics, and also privides me the LCARS style screen)

That is all new for me :D



First google search result is https://pimylifeup.com/raspberry-pi-mosquitto-mqtt-server/
ok that is easy to do :D

In the opensource section of the forums here we have it all documented how to use Grahams software to get Classic data onto a pi as mqtt.
https://github.com/ClassicDIY/ClassicMQTT
That way you can get the data from Classic with more than one device at the same time and not have the one ip connection at a time restriction. I run mosquitto , telegraf, influxdb, and grafana . Once you have all that set up it is easy to use the same process to send esp mqtt data to the same pi and structure and then also graph on grafana. So I have been adding Tasmota esp devices with temperature or Sonoff devices reflashed with Tasmota .  That other german fellow had an esp app that would connect to a seplos bms and it also would send it all to mqtt.

Larry

I am sorry, I apologize, that was misleading ...
Not Graham (he made this great ANdroid app, I also use and send the data to PVoutput)

Wade ... thanks to him, I have this great solution on my PI.



I ordered this adaptor: https://amzn.to/3vthVUF
"DSD TECH SH-U10L USB an RS485 Kabel für Windows 10 8 7 Mac OS Linux 5FT"

Converts RS485 to USB (as a serial device)

I searched thru the web and found this software:
https://www.lithiumbatterypcb.com/smart-bms-software-download/
https://signaturesolar.com/eg4-lifepower4-lithium-battery-48v-100ah/
but shops me nothing.

Then this project on Github:
https://gitlab.com/bms-tools/bms-tools
expects a 64bit computer (why??? Why does someone do this?)
My laptops all only have a 32bit Windos. Do I really have to setup a new machine with 64 bit ...
Still not sure, this will be able to read the datas.

Someone has the Pylontech software ? ;-)


Ideal soluten for me would be, I can connect the RS485-USB to my PI,
there a script runs and stores the data, wich I can read and implement in my page or so a new page to view the datas.

But this can also be a solution with the ESP and the RS485-TTL adaptors, they arrived today, too.


now have to go to work... ;-)

Larry,

seplos software ...


I found this:
https://s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/linquip.equipment/275516/equipment_275516_catalog_43f4cdcba17a9ea4ddefcfbe317bfef73e974b90.pdf
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10pxgNLHovcDZRVGrCZsSkfecBrRw-AdW

I have downloaded the files, will try them later.




What sketch do you have installed on your ESP?


Thanks :)

Quote from: binkino on April 21, 2022, 01:45:28 PM
Larry,

seplos software ...

I found this:
https://s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/linquip.equipment/275516/equipment_275516_catalog_43f4cdcba17a9ea4ddefcfbe317bfef73e974b90.pdf
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10pxgNLHovcDZRVGrCZsSkfecBrRw-AdW

I have downloaded the files, will try them later.


(I could reanimate my Lattepanda ... for this software or take an old netbook. Wasn't there a way to show a programs window via network in a website...)



What sketch do you have installed on your ESP?


Thanks :)

Great Scott! :D

That works! :)


My Laptop still running.
Still thinking about wich netbook I will install a W7 and nail it there for the next time...

In attachment a screenshot via VNC connection.

Thank you so much for this tip!!!


As this is working, I know the cable is good, it uses the Pylon protocol, so it will (should) also work with other solutions.
Or can the program ... it can write "RealTime Record" - if the PI reads that file via network share ... mh ... must sleep over this idea.

This program is very cpu hungry.
But i have installed one of my netbooks now with w10, as there were problems wirth framework installation on w7 ...
the w10 really eats the cpu power.
But the battery program is running on it and this needs less energy.

It can write a file while logging (example attachment)

But as this is too much cpu hungry, I will wait for a solution vie the ESP or direct to my PI

Interesting XLS view of the cells !

boB

Quote from: binkino on April 21, 2022, 01:45:28 PM
Larry,

seplos software ...


I found this:
https://s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/linquip.equipment/275516/equipment_275516_catalog_43f4cdcba17a9ea4ddefcfbe317bfef73e974b90.pdf
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10pxgNLHovcDZRVGrCZsSkfecBrRw-AdW

I have downloaded the files, will try them later.




What sketch do you have installed on your ESP?


Thanks :)

Try this one on your esp
I loaded it on my esp but it didn't work since my bms was not the seplos type.
There is a youtube video about this esp program too by the creator of it.
https://github.com/KlausLi/Esp-Seplos-Controller

Larry

yes the software stores many interesting datas.
But qould be a good thing, if we find a more efficient (less cpu hungry) way to do this :)

A script should be able to only read the last line of the xls?
It is easier to only have one text file (yes it is a text file with tabulators) with one data entry line to read for other purposes


There is this topic in the German PV forum:
https://www.photovoltaikforum.com/thread/118958-pylontech-us2000b-daten-%C3%BCber-konsole-rs232-auslesen/

It is about reading the datas from the Pylontech via RS232 (serial) and some tried to read via RS485.
I tried the one dos batch (somewhere page 20?) to read and write datas in a text file.
But my text file is empty.

And Linux ... don't ask :D
(If I have a manual that tells me exactly what do do, by 99% no problem)

If you have a raspberry pi I can help you set that up sometime to read Classic data and then add other esp data .
Send me a personal message .

Larry

you have PM :)

(can't see the sent PM - wrote a second time, also not shown in sent items)

There is a small Box, to add a check, into.  This check box is down the page, on the left.  Checking this box, will save a copy of your sent PM.

Larry, is very good at Quoting what you have sent,  at least, this is his usual, very helpful style.

FWIW, IIRC, etc.   good luck, Vic

ah I didn't see it ..

yes I thankfully really appreciate everyones and his help 👍

Hi, just an update ;)

I followed another road.

But this is just temporarily, untill I have a "free head" to dive into this other solution.


What I did now:

- I use my Lattepanda (old 4GB/64GB Version with W10) and run the Battery software from the other company that can read the datas from the battery.
- This Software can do also logging to a file. A xls file with tabs for separation of the datas.
- I run a dos batch, that copies this file every 5 seconds to another folder and extracts the latest line of the file and saves it to a new text file.
- This batch also moves this new one line text file to a shared folder on the PI.
- For making this working better, I added the PI share as a "network drive" letter with letter P:\ in W10
- Another batch script deletes the growing log file of the Battery monitoring programm every 60 minutes, to prevent it gets too big. (It would slow down my very inefficient way doing this)

- On the Pi, I added a php routine, similar to the Classic log reading, and extract the datas, so I can use them for displaying.

- While I was in this move, I also read datas from my UPS (APC Smart-UPS 1400 RM XL) receiving the voltage after the inverter and the frequency.
- Here I also use a batch file that polls the data.txt via ftp and deletes the file on the Network management Card in the UPS.
- From here, also latest line es read, moved to the PI, reading it like the other datas.

That is a extremly inefficient way to do this, I know, but for the moment it works.


I experimented a lot with the page ... how to display all thes datas...

At the end, it looks like the pictures in attachment. (better pictures will follow)


I first added the cell voltages next to the temperatures, but that looked so ugly and displaced.
So I placed the temperatures from the cells next to it, moved some things around on the right side and added the cell voltages to it. Also status is added in the right upper area from the battery.

The AUX status has moved in the lower area of the temperatures.

On the left side, I used the colored blocks for my internal links now.


The new and second page is only displaying the informations from the battery and the UPS.

I also added the "CONDITION" like on startrek but in a simple design.
The background of this cell changes from red-orange-green and the letters are white while conditon red, else black.
(orange as yellow is tooo  bright)

Next to it is a gif animation, that shows charging/discharging/standby (by loading the dependend gif file)
(but I have to find another solution, a gif is too much)


btw. I also tried to find a usefull translation for the status of the battery ... still not sure. But will work.

These status I have seen are:
"None" - all ok
"Remaining capacity alarm" - cells going very low ... will shut down soon
"Monomer high voltage alarm " - cell(s) have to high voltage (why the BMS is not compensating this?)
"Monomer overvoltage protection Intermittent power supply waiting " - guess, it is full and shuts off charging untill voltage drops on the input

and there was another that I missed to write down.


As I have no inverter, that can communicate with the battery, it makes things not easy.
But I am playing around with the Classic settings to find a good setting.


Yes, that is the status on my project ... 



oh and btw. the 10" tablet had a brother, that died a year ago. It runs, but freezes after a time. So it's useless for me now.
I have reset it , I used my heatgun to find a problem, ... but didn't help - I think it is done.

So you see one of my two small 7" ASUS tablet on the right side, like I have it on my PV system in the basement/cellar.
They are really old, but they run and run ... :)

But on the otehr hand, it doesn't look to wrong next to it ;)

Nice that you got something working with your system.
Newer products these days will have better communications .
I was just looking at a video about an all in one controller, inverter, charger - you get a lot for the $.
They even run without battery . But who knows if they will hold up over time and load like the Classics do.

Larry

Yes I am also not sure, if they will last so long like my Classics, I bought them in ~ 2015 ... 7 years and no problems.

The problem with these all in one devices is. If one function fails, the whole system is down.

you have your page looking pretty good now

Thanks ;)



Yesterday I thought one of my 7" ASUS tablets died, but today it is back ... who knows what it had for an issue ...

I extented to a 3rd page and also cleaned up the main page.
The cells have their own page now and it looks much cleaner and more authentic without the colorfull boxes now.

I am happy now with these designs (nope there is always something to improove haha)

It looks like the BananaPi is coming to it's limits now, I think I will change over to the RPI2 in the next days.
Has a 4 core CPU, that will give it some more room


Also I received some new tips how to read datas from the battery direct without the software, that must be checked.


But the 10kWh is just enough for normal use, I will later have to add some more batteries.


And - while talking to a dealer he confirmed that these Rosen Solar really use the same BMS like the Pylontech. There must be something legal thing I don't remember in the exact words and how to describe it in English, that they are not allowed to use or sell them over here or something like that ... Pylontech has some exclusive rights? How ever, who cares.  That could be a reasson they don't give any software to it, so no one can see what's inside? I don't know.

BUT then this battery should work with Pylontech modules if I expand the capacity.

But I first need to recover from this expenses.

Imagine if the EPzS didn't go bang what I could do with the money, that came the last months.
Guess that was the plan of the fate...

Binkino,  where in Germany are you ?

I spent over a week in Munich about 7 years ago.  It was wonderful !

I see you are in to projection equipment too.  I am  a member of a FB group about old UK projection equipment.

Very interesting site(s) !

Sometimes your web site allows translation by Google to English. 

Why the name, A68K ?   Does that have to do with the Motorola 68K ? Or is that a coincidence maybe ?

boB

I think maybe companies accepts pylontech published modbus as a standard so that inverters and batteries can communicate ?
But seems the companies like to keep the bms setpoints programming locked down so people won't mess up their batteries.
At least that is what it looks like on my bms.
Larry

Hi boB,

Thanks ;)

Yes the Translation sometimes doesn't work properly... If there is an interesting part for you that can't be translated, please let me know, I will do my best :)


I live in the city Heidelberg (zip 69115)


Correct, 68k is short for the Motorola cpus, the A stands for Amiga ;)


In 2005 I found back to the Commodore Amiga and I had the idea to start a new page, later merged with my older binkino.de, I haven't updated anything here. There is so much dust on these pages.... haha


If you are interested, but my videos are all in German and YT can't translate the subs in all scenes:
2 years ago the youtuber "Zerobrain" contacted me to make some videos "behind the scenes" in a cinema
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0hGq1TZ-xc&list=PLY9k_jexAH7oTq3u_RJazVt97PUEhkY1B

My actual video serie is about a 35mm projector BAUER B 14 - a 60-65 year good old boy that wasn't used in the last 10 years.
In 2012 they installed a digital projection (NEC1200C - i don't like the NEC, the Christie 35mm projectors were the biggest crap - but Christie did the right thing and contracted with Barco and build the best digital projectors I know - in my opinion)
The B14 was so dirty, a big shame for the guy that was working before me in this cinema I am working now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QlrSVPUWM8&list=PLY9k_jexAH7q5xj-YoPL6-eoGFUQxnrCZ
In short: it is about cleaning it and I have to use brake cleaner to remove the old oil, thats stuck there like old grease.
Removing the roller, cleaning them, removing rust and dirt, oiling it ...


Cinema is my world , we can say I grew up in the cinema ;)

I learnd everything from the best man I know - my Dad ;)



yeah if you are one day in Germany and near to Heidelberg, let me know! ;)

Thank you Binkino !

My dad taught me a LOT too.  Not projection BUT he taught me how to make film as well as many other things as starting my interest in electronics.

He was a TV repairman and also spend several years in the 1960s and early 1970s as a local news reporter in the Seattle area.  They used 16mm film and he started teaching me about news photography and making movies which he was good at.

I will definitely look you up !

boB  🌜

And Larry,  very interesting...

Found some code.

https://github.com/Frankkkkk/python-pylontech

oh that looks interesting, we will have a look at - thanks!


The BananaPI is on it's limits I guess, pages loading is too slow now :D
So I will have to change to the RPI2 tomorrow. Should run a bit better (has 4 cores)


What I wanted to do all the time .. a simple page I can have a quick look at the most importand datas on my phone.
I did it now. First version (reduced resolution/quality for upload) :

Quote from: boB on May 06, 2022, 02:53:00 PM

And Larry,  very interesting...

Found some code.

https://github.com/Frankkkkk/python-pylontech

Thanks Bob
I will have to see if it works on my battery.
Larry

Quote from: binkino on May 08, 2022, 01:14:59 PM
oh that looks interesting, we will have a look at - thanks!


The BananaPI is on it's limits I guess, pages loading is too slow now :D
So I will have to change to the RPI2 tomorrow. Should run a bit better (has 4 cores)


What I wanted to do all the time .. a simple page I can have a quick look at the most importand datas on my phone.
I did it now. First version (reduced resolution/quality for upload) :

Is this using the code above that Bob  linked ?
Larry

no I still run it on my "old Pi"

will check the python

I have now setup my RPI2 and replaced the BPI.

I tried the PY but I run against the walls. At the end I had to setup the RPI2 again.

I am not happy with the PY, it is nothing "out of the box" and no intuitive usage.
You have to load the module files. That is generally ok - but to install them, you need a PIP or similar.
Why not just place them in a folder of the program? The dumbest programs work that way. In worst case, you have to open the settings and tell it, to use it (who remembers WinAmp ... that was a dream!)
Although PY has a GUI program. But why can't the user just simple call a function in the menu to import a module / library?
I searched the web, but all these instructions I found are incomplete. Like readme in todays project files.
In the old days, I remember back to C64 and Amiga time and is still a claim if you upload a thing to the Aminet), you had to add instructions. What exactly to install where and how to use it. The picture I have today of todays programmers I don't want to say here, it could hit the wrong people.

And PY2 has nothing to do with PY3 ... hard to find out.

I apologize if that all sounds harsh but that sucks.

Looking at the .py scripts, all looks logical and easy. But just to build up the environment is a nightmare.


But now I run my system like before again (Lattepanda with W10 and the battery monitoring program, and the RPI2 as my PV PI)
and will later have a look at this again.
But will setup one of my BananaPIs as a playground ;-) so I don't screw up the running system :D


I contunied to modify my pages here and there a bit, removed the gif animation what slowed down the page loading
Now just a simple background image of a empty battery that is changed to a full battery
And while charging/discharging, the empty battery is background and a "marquee" animation is running over it.
To the left is discharging and vsvs


I also was able to catch an ASUS 7" tablet in evilbay for 20 bugs, that's fine.
Good to have one in spare ;-)
They are old and outdated, now cheap, they do their work, no new e-waste. ;)

I get what you mean about projects you see - many are not documented or completed. But I guess people put up what code they have in case it is useful for others who are smart enough to know what it means.
The exception is the Classic DIY on github where Graham posted detailed instructions and others like me have tested and updated instructions as needed.
The thing is that changes in programs later often break working things.
I like to use Tasmota when i can because of the ease of making things that are supported work on esp8266 or esp32 boards. I haven't gotten into Home Assistant because that takes some effort to figure  out but a lot of people use it I guess. The support is out there for it.
I am just happy I know as much as I do about using linux on a Raspberry Pi - it took a lot of time for me to get to this.
So I understand your frustrations. Free stuff isn't always so cheap timewise !
Larry

That's right, he has a really great documentary :)



Today I tried to repaint the letters, they were washed away by the battery acid

left Classic with silver paint pencil (Edding) and the right classic with gold ... not sure which looks better ;-)
I have to paint one or two more layer and then scrape off the excess paint around the edges of the letters


I also fabricated a "duct" above the inverter, so the hot air is not heating up the 5 volt power supplies unnecessarily


I need to find a "watchdog" that checks, if the browser is running on the PI.
Looks like the browser (netsurf-gtk) crashes unexpected on the PI (running the Logging.php)

What did you end up using for setpoints for the lithium batteries ?
Your electrical systems always look so different that ours here mainly because no one uses din rail except for in industrial controls for the most part.
I mean I know the classic DC  breakers come in din rail but that is the exception rather than the rule for most stuff - at least for AC boxes.
Larry

Hi Larry,

in the Midnite Solar Status Panel:

[BASIC]
Absorb: 53 V / 00:06
Equalize: 53 V / 00:00 (no auto)
Float 51,6 V (that is just the 0.1 v above the minimum voltage, the BMS starts charging), here teh BMS just will charge/discharge to keep the cells at 100% SOC

[Advanced]
Only on the South Classic:
AUX1: SOC% low / Auto / 30% / 50%

Output Amps: 78 A
Input Amps: 79 A
MinVolts: 48 V
Maximum Volts: 54 V

no Compensation

Effeciency 95% / Cap 198 / 0°C (still not sure but ... )


[TECH]

Ending Amps 10 / WBJr (only on the South Classic with the WBJr) (10 A looks ok)
Rebulk Volts: 52,5 V
Days betw.Bulk: 0 (not sure, but looks to work)

- - - - -

btw. the Classic never shows 100% SOC, it ends at 99% SOC. A cosmetic thing, the BMS is in control for the charging.



yes our both electric systems really look so much different ;-)

Din rails are standard in all installations here, also in the smallest "sub distribution box" in homes for a hand full breakers, an RCI, or a relay,... that makes it easy for installations and so on

It made things so easy to have the din rail by hand and mount them with rivets them to the board, clip on the fuses, plugs, breakers, and wire them up ;)


Andy

Some Square D QOU breakers come with din rail mount configurations. I have built a few small 2 circuit breaker boxes and combiner boxes with them.

uuh, yes there they are ;-)

I find it interesting, that the non-din rail version has these snappy contacts on the backside for easy installation and change to another breaker.
Are there any known problems with oxidation of the surface and high resistance over the time?



I changed back to the BPI and it is running stable now again. Slow but stable.
One big bottleneck is the wifi bridge with two good old FritzBox 7270 (v3).
I didn't want to drill a hole in the floor to install a network cable down to the system, but maybe the time has come for the old 7270 ...
I am still not sure what to do, but installing a cable from my modem/router down in the basement/cellar to the system is very complicated.

Also I have been thinking about an alternative to the PIs ... I tried installing some "leightweight"Linuxes in a VM on my Lattepanda and on my "Server", where I could run the php stuff from my PI, also "full" versions liek a Mint or Ubuntu ... but how we know Linux, Murphy is finding a way to throw sticks in the bike's wheels. No luck with it.

I also tried run the PI's php stuff on my "Server" (W10, yes I know...) where Xaamp is installed, also PHP, but I get so many error messages in the Logging.php browser window, I can't figure out where the problem is. Possible this only runs on a Linux machine?

So other solution could be, I have two Intel D525MW machines. One is a "just for fun" WinUAE machine, the other is my old "Server".
They have 4GB Ram, Intel Atom 2x 1,8Ghz...
Only sharing my thoughts ... what if I install a Windos and a VM on it. In Windos I run the battery program, and in the VM a Linux (wich?) But I am affraid that is to heavy for the Atoms.
Or only a Linux and have more CPU power compared to the PI ... running the battery program on the Lattepanda ... I still have to find the time to find out how that python has to be installed ...

Would it make sense to install a second BPI with the same installation like the "BPI1" and BPI1 is only running the Logging.php and stores the data file local and on a share on the BPI2,
and the BPI2 only has to serve the websites?


But I think I will first temporarily lay a network cable to the system and check what changes...  ;)

Quote from: binkino on May 15, 2022, 11:44:54 AM

   ...   I find it interesting, that the non-din rail version has these snappy contacts on the backside for easy installation and change to another breaker.
Are there any known problems with oxidation of the surface and high resistance over the time?   ...

Hi Andy,

I am NOT littleharbor,  but,  YES the DIN rail Square D breakers, are the QOU series, and the "plug-on" breakers are generally the QO series.

When new,, the QO breakers, come with a small amount of antioxidant grease on the inside of the electrical contacts.  Almost, without exception, the Square D electrical panels use Al buss bars, which would be subject to oxidation.  The included grease is very viscous, and stays in place.  Someone reusing QO breakers,  would really want to renew this antioxidant, just prior to re-installation, IMO.

Have fun with your new Li batteries.   The exploded FLAs were sure a mess, but you have cleaned up, quite well.

FWIW,  Vic

Thank you, that is interesting good to know, good idea with grease to protect it


Oh yes that was a mess, but now running well with the LFP ;)
Next year I will try to get a second battery of the same type / brand, 20kWh will be ok then
10kWh is ok for now, I am still happy I was able to get one. But I have so much energy unused from the PV, and the cars are full... :D




I have now installed a Mint20 in the VM on my server successfully, works. Also the pages load very fast now from it.

Testing tomorrow the network cable, if that makes a different. So I have a "plan b" with the VM.
Just have to copy the VM Image to another machine


Edit: now running it all in the VM and 3 tablets and the browser on my machine are displaying and reloading the pages every 3 and 5 seconds, the load on the VM Linux is below 10% ... it is just chilling there :D

Glad you got your computers figured out. Linux Mint always seems the best .
I am still using my pi 3b+ and it runs very stable. But I haven't interfaced batteries into it yet.
One of these days .
Larry

Last night I swaped the system between my "WinuAE" and the old "Server" Intel D525MW, so the self 3D printed housing matches it's purpose now ;)
(red case with fan on the top with the C= logo is now the WinUAE machine)

Then I took an old SSD with an old backup of my W7 system and surprice it didn't crash on booting (as the hardware changed, some ICH driver family...)
but the VM can't start the Linux VM I have created on my server.
W7 is 64 bit, the Linux VM is 64 bit ... and that's the point. I need V-hyper / virtualisation, that the board can't provide.
After many searches in the web I found out, that I only could run a 32bit VM Linux ... ok. Was a try.
I keep the VM running it on my Server, that runs flawless (knocking on wood? haha)

There is one more thing that could come in handy ...
These RS485-Network adapters ... https://amzn.to/3Lc2sOw ... so if I understand it correct, it simulates a COM port on the machine and builds a "bridge" over the ethernet to the RS485
May be next month.


Edit:
Have now VM installed on the Lattepanda, takes forever to start but if it is once stared, it runs well.
Parallel runs the battery monitor software and the dos batches. Still have 5 pages open (3 tablets, 2 on my PC) and they load with is lightly more delay compared to my server that is standing upstairs close to me, but acceptable.
So I think about a housing for the Lattepanda and leave it there for the next time.
(The PI was never meant to run the logging and serve more then one open page :D but it kept up very well until I went crazy haha)

How is that rs485 different from just using one of the $1 converter boards ? You get the rs485 data to a com port -  then can do what ever you want to with the data.
Larry

I am not sure how these protocolls work.
I was also thinking about using one of the small converter boards and wire them to the PI, so I have not the USB stack "overhead" the cpu has to handle with.

I guess it made everything easier and that all could gone another direction if they populated the serial connector at the BMS. But it is what it is now :)

Quote from: binkino on May 16, 2022, 10:31:36 AM
I am not sure how these protocolls work.
I was also thinking about using one of the small converter boards and wire them to the PI, so I have not the USB stack "overhead" the cpu has to handle with.

I guess it made everything easier and that all could gone another direction if they populated the serial connector at the BMS. But it is what it is now :)

If someone made an interface already that works on the rs485 then it is pretty easy.  They pretty much all use modbus.
I think you probably saw the videos I made where I used rs485 to esp8266 . I used it because the smarter people had made the modbus programs work so I only had to figure out how to connect it all together. Nice thing is the pi gets all the data via it's built in wifi so no wires going to it other than the power cable.
Larry

Thanks, Larry

yes

One day we will trip over what we are searching today ;)



BUT I have found out now, why the pages sometimes don't load or load extremly slow ...
After that now, the answer was so easy and obvious ... but you have to find it :D
If more then one page is trying to load the data text files, then a file can be blocked while it is loaded from another page ...
So I added two lines to my batches, in it the data text file is copied to the web share folder and then it is also duplicated.
Each page loads it's own text file now. Did this also with the current.txt.
Now it is all running great, like I wanted.

I also mounted the Lattepanda on it's "new" cooling plate and hung it by it's cables in place :D

I totaly forgot to update here ...

I make it short, I have it all on my page: http://a68k.de/pv/umbau4.htm
Google Translated: https://a68k-de.translate.goog/pv/umbau4.htm?_x_tr_sch=http&_x_tr_sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=wapp

I installed another inverter and rearranged the lower part on the installation board.
The old inverter (Westech 3000 Watts) is now in spare, if things go wrong with this chinese thing.

I still run the battery software on the Lattepanda.

The PI is gone and I installed it in a VM with Linux installed on my server running the php and logging.


The inverter also has RS485 but doesn't communicate with the battery, although it should be able to "speak" Pylontech BMS.
The Chinese seller on ebay has very... limited knowledge and ability.
There was no software included, I downloaded it from the Powland page (100% Easun!), and somehow it works to connect.
(After a lot of explanation and discussion, the seller linked me to a piece of software, but it can't even establish communication. All incapable!)
I was at least able to make the settings wich the display menu does not offer, such as setting the communication method (Pylontech).
However, it never shows the correct SOC of the battery. The cable is correct... I don't know.

Also, this Wifi device can only be used with their service. (A lot has to happen before I entrust my data to the Chinese!) No way to read it on the local network. That was kept secret in the auction.
I see it's IP in the network ... but that's all.
I have already opened the Wifi device, a ESP like device is inside.
Well, one day there will certainly be someone who will read the programming of it and convert it or can program something completely different on it...

Now I'm definitely out of the 3000 watt limit ;)

... and the installation somehow looks good too ;)

(I also updated the terminals for the PV strings)

So .. a small update from my side ;)

In April I bought a second 10kWh RosenSolar LFP battery, as we pay no taxes now in Germany for solar products.

First, all cables and the wall mounting bracked were missing...
The seller send me a cable, but surprise, they changed the connectors. So waiting 2 more weeks.
Battery connected, looked all fine - BUT ... the first battery lost 30Ah of the 200Ah in one year?
The seller will meet one of the Rosen Solar guys on a convention (?) in 1-2 weeks, he want to talk to him in person about that all.
There were also high voltage differents between the cells and warnings, but seller was not able to get something that helped me, the year was going by and I forgot about that.
But I still have the screenshots and videos about that. That came back in mind, as the new battery also shows this behaviour.

While waiting for something that solves and helps ...

What I found out earlier, that the batteries use the Pylontech protocolle. And now it is by 99,999% sure, that they use Seplos BMS in the batteries.

I contacted Seplos and they confirmed my fears, that the cell reistance are too different (not matching cells).
So some single cells get too fast charged up, other don't, there is no active balacing happening, and cells deviate too much.
I was already thinking about to add active balancers and have ordered them now from Aliexpress and they will arrive in one week.
If some cells are to early fully charged, the whole battery will not charge full up to it's capacity and the displayed capacity will shrink.
I hope, that these active balancers will solve the problems ... (and no damages accured already)
Actually it is the situation, that the one year old battery doesn't charge up to full 100% SOC anymore (today max. 54% SOC) and I have now disconnected the new battery to give this battery a better chance, watching it today ans tomorrow.

(It is also a harder task, as I have two Midnite Classics they can't charge LFPs from their nature and I used the guides here to setup the voltages, that seems to work. May be it is time to get newer chargers? Bute they work and are bullet proof ... I don't know what to do at this time. I make decissions when the balancers are installed.)

And a viewer of my YT channel has now written a Python script for me to get the datas from this chinese inverter brick. (Easun/Powland)
No need for using the chinese servers (their wifi dingle only connects to china server!) and ths USB connection was not stable.
I have now made a cable with one of these USB/RS485 adaptors, like I use on the battery, that works perfect and stable.

That for update to all who are interested in this ;-)

Ah now I am thinking about to use the same/similar Python to read the both Classics ... So I don't need the VM with Linux anymore (earlier it was installed on a PI to get the datas...)
Having the values in a database isn't that bad idea.

binkino, would love to see your YT channel.

When I search for you I find bikinis which is fine with me but not your content :)

boB

Hi boB,

yes that's true, and bikinis are much more interesting :D

I use the name "A68k" in Youtube, @a68k_de ;)
https://youtube.com/c/a68k_de

Andy

Oh Yeah !

Turns out I am already subscribed to your channel !

Thank you