1
General Discussion / sale on wire
« Last post by thehay95 on Today at 08:43:51 AM »I need to get about 830 ft of no. 1 wire (copper) anyone seen a sale going on or just a good buy?
Recent Posts
2
The "KID" charge controller / Re: kid models clarification
« Last post by FNG on Today at 06:15:41 AM »yes the kid can be used without the brackets, I am a little confused about mounting it the way you describe? The way I would do it with no bracket is to cut a hole in the plywood using the included template and slide the kid into the hole in what we call a flush mount
3
Lead Acid (Sealed and flooded) / Re: Well after kicking the ‘what battery’ ball around for a year I ordered...
« Last post by ClassicCrazy on September 19, 2018, 10:12:11 PM »I think you could do one of two things .
One would be set them all to the same setpoints and they should all do similar regulating .
Or the other option would be to set two of the controllers with lower Absorb setpoint than your Classic array - and then those other two will drop out first and the Classic will finish up the charging . If you use more power then the voltage would drop and and the other two controllers should then contribute the power you need.
I have no experience with the other controller types. I guess you will just have to experiment some to find what works best. I think I would set the two other controllers one volt lower and one half volt lower than the Classic and watch and see how they behave.
You could just watch them and see how much amps each contributes on a sunny day and the you will know what to expect from them. They may put out more power if it gets colder out in winter. Seems like you could set them all for the same absorb time .
Larry
One would be set them all to the same setpoints and they should all do similar regulating .
Or the other option would be to set two of the controllers with lower Absorb setpoint than your Classic array - and then those other two will drop out first and the Classic will finish up the charging . If you use more power then the voltage would drop and and the other two controllers should then contribute the power you need.
I have no experience with the other controller types. I guess you will just have to experiment some to find what works best. I think I would set the two other controllers one volt lower and one half volt lower than the Classic and watch and see how they behave.
You could just watch them and see how much amps each contributes on a sunny day and the you will know what to expect from them. They may put out more power if it gets colder out in winter. Seems like you could set them all for the same absorb time .
Larry
4
Lead Acid (Sealed and flooded) / Re: Well after kicking the ‘what battery’ ball around for a year I ordered...
« Last post by alyaz on September 19, 2018, 09:04:08 PM »Thanks Larry.
How do I know or calculate what ‘power’ in amps the three controllers can produce under optimum conditions? That’s the number I need in order to figure out the absorb time needed when charging by solar.
How do I know or calculate what ‘power’ in amps the three controllers can produce under optimum conditions? That’s the number I need in order to figure out the absorb time needed when charging by solar.
5
Lead Acid (Sealed and flooded) / Re: Well after kicking the ‘what battery’ ball around for a year I ordered...
« Last post by ClassicCrazy on September 19, 2018, 08:46:22 PM »I think from what it says you have for solar and the amount of batteries you have you do not need to current limit the charge from your PV. It will give all available power to your battery in Bulk and when the voltage climbs to the Absorb voltage then the Classic will taper off the current to keep the voltage constant until you get to either the Absorb Time of ending amps ( if you have whizbang and have ending amps set ) . I am sure Rolls has all the recommended setpoints for your Classic. If you want to set up ending amps there is a tutorial on how to do it in Knowledge Base - this topic " Frequently Asked Questions
All Categories » CLASSIC CHARGE CONTROLLER - Features and Programming
CLASSIC - ENDAMPS - How do I figure what ENDAMPS should be? "
http://www.midnitehelp.com/
Larry
All Categories » CLASSIC CHARGE CONTROLLER - Features and Programming
CLASSIC - ENDAMPS - How do I figure what ENDAMPS should be? "
http://www.midnitehelp.com/
Larry
6
The "KID" charge controller / Re: kid models clarification
« Last post by harryn on September 19, 2018, 07:45:57 PM »Thanks for the image of the back of the -C1D2 model. I have seen some class 1 - div II wiring and sometimes they were N2 purged to prevent fumes from entering. Perhaps that is the concept behind the screen on the back - to allow N2 to enter.
Is there a similar image of the back of the standard model? I could not find it on the web site.
Due to space limitations, what I would like to do is use the standard -B version and mount it to a wood plate (back of the controller directly onto the board). There isn't room for the extra wall mount bracket - just the controller.
I realize that wire access to that unit is difficult, so the bracket provides improved access.
If I purchase a standard -B model with the included plate, my understanding is that it comes with the wires fanned out to the connector in the bottom. Can I just remove that extra bracket and terminate to the wires that are already coming out?
If that can work, then we can use it in our 24 volt product line and upgrade to a 30 amp controller vs the 20 amp controller that we are using now.
Since there is not any heat dissipation from the back, perhaps this can work?
I don't mind going to the -w version if that helps, but there isn't room for the side brackets.
It all goes into a ventilated but protective case.
Is there a similar image of the back of the standard model? I could not find it on the web site.
Due to space limitations, what I would like to do is use the standard -B version and mount it to a wood plate (back of the controller directly onto the board). There isn't room for the extra wall mount bracket - just the controller.
I realize that wire access to that unit is difficult, so the bracket provides improved access.
If I purchase a standard -B model with the included plate, my understanding is that it comes with the wires fanned out to the connector in the bottom. Can I just remove that extra bracket and terminate to the wires that are already coming out?
If that can work, then we can use it in our 24 volt product line and upgrade to a 30 amp controller vs the 20 amp controller that we are using now.
Since there is not any heat dissipation from the back, perhaps this can work?
I don't mind going to the -w version if that helps, but there isn't room for the side brackets.
It all goes into a ventilated but protective case.
7
Lead Acid (Sealed and flooded) / Re: Well after kicking the ‘what battery’ ball around for a year I ordered...
« Last post by alyaz on September 19, 2018, 04:26:47 PM »Just doing some reading here...
In order to compute the new set points for the new batteries (hopefully soon to arrive), I require the Magnum Remote and the Midnite charge controller ‘nominal charge currents.’
For the Magnum MS4024PAE I currently have the parameter set at 100% . I believe the charger puts out 105 a. So the formula they provided is;
C20 (1104) / 105 x.42 = 4.4 hrs in absorb / for generator.
For the 2 Midnite / 1 Apollo controllers what nominal charge current do you use to plug into the formula
Should I assume about 70 a and derate it a bit as there are three controllers in use?
Hope that makes sense...
In order to compute the new set points for the new batteries (hopefully soon to arrive), I require the Magnum Remote and the Midnite charge controller ‘nominal charge currents.’
For the Magnum MS4024PAE I currently have the parameter set at 100% . I believe the charger puts out 105 a. So the formula they provided is;
C20 (1104) / 105 x.42 = 4.4 hrs in absorb / for generator.
For the 2 Midnite / 1 Apollo controllers what nominal charge current do you use to plug into the formula
Should I assume about 70 a and derate it a bit as there are three controllers in use?Hope that makes sense...
8
The "KID" charge controller / Re: kid models clarification
« Last post by Doug on September 19, 2018, 01:37:17 PM »The C1 D2 model is Class I Div II rated for hazardous (Explosive) areas.
9
The "KID" charge controller / Re: kid models clarification
« Last post by FNG on September 19, 2018, 06:42:04 AM »I have asked Robin for an exact explanation but they are the same KID at the start, I believe the C1D2 kid has a vented back and is assumed you will use the wall mount adapter to comply with C1D2 the standard kid though does not dissipate any heat through the back it is all dissipated from the fins on the front so mounting can be very versatile.
The front looks identical and as for the back, it basically does as well except for the vented back on the C1D2 model.
See the web pages for a detailed image:
http://www.midnitesolar.com/productPhoto.php?product_ID=669&productCatName=Charge%20Controllers%20-%20KID&productCat_ID=43&sortOrder=1&act=p
Where you see the screen on the C1D2 kid there is a solid aluminum cover on the standard kid
The front looks identical and as for the back, it basically does as well except for the vented back on the C1D2 model.
See the web pages for a detailed image:
http://www.midnitesolar.com/productPhoto.php?product_ID=669&productCatName=Charge%20Controllers%20-%20KID&productCat_ID=43&sortOrder=1&act=p
Where you see the screen on the C1D2 kid there is a solid aluminum cover on the standard kid
10
The "KID" charge controller / Re: kid models clarification
« Last post by harryn on September 19, 2018, 12:57:21 AM »Also - can the kid be mounted against a flat surface - example a sheet of plywood, or is the assumption that it will vent heat into the space behind the wall?
Thanks
Thanks