Author Topic: 3000w install in Australia  (Read 3439 times)

dRdoS7

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Re: 3000w install in Australia
« Reply #15 on: October 14, 2016, 08:16:30 PM »
Hi,

So AFL is American Football ?

AFL = Australian Football League


Quote
I will be running them within narrow voltage limits (43-59v)

That's "narrow"??  (My LFPs don't get below 51V or over 56.5V)

I have read that Nife can be 0.95 to 1.75 /cell, that's 38v to 70v! So, yes it's "narrow".

While the Classic would have no problems, my inverter certainly would.

I have been told that running them at the settings I use for my SLA (ie 49 - 58V) will not reduce their capacity.

dRdoS7

« Last Edit: October 15, 2016, 05:22:06 PM by dRdoS7 »

dRdoS7

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Re: 3000w install in Australia
« Reply #16 on: November 28, 2016, 05:52:57 PM »
Hi,

Finally received my NiFe batteries (2 weeks ago).

I'm told I need to charge/discharge them for 15 cycles before they become useful (90%), plus 100 cycles until they reach full capacity (110% according to the email).

Mostly cloudy skies during the last 2 weeks has not been conducive to much more than supplying power, let alone reasonable cycling up to 1.6v/cell.

The limited cycling I can achieve has only given me an hour runtime, not sparkling, and I'm copping some flack from the boss.

A problem, which I had not had before is that my inverter beeps non stop when either the low (42v) or high (59v) alarm points are reached, and can't be disabled. The actual shutdown points are low=38.4v and high possibly=60v. can't find the high in the docs., and I've emailed the maker. I may need to do a test. I might disable the beeper with some blutac.

The timber "supports" are there as I noticed the shelving sagged a bit (3mm) when I put on the front row of batteries. I was assured they are 176kg/shelf rating, the batteries are 130kg/shelf, and the back row sits raised on a rack which is supported on the outside edges, rather than the shelving itself. I think I'll make some nicer looking steel ones, when I get a "roundtuit".
 
dRdoS7

russ_drinkwater

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Re: 3000w install in Australia
« Reply #17 on: November 29, 2016, 03:17:17 PM »
I have a small ( 10 amp hour) edison battery which runs some led lights during blackouts here in summer.
Since I put the battery together and mixed electrolite and added to cells have been very slack on its maintenance.
Felt guilty the other day and got the battery off its shelf and gave it a clean up. It was very low on fluid and required nearly 1 liter of distilled water. I did test it before cleaning etc and it was showing 14.2 volts even with the low fluid level.
If it was a fla there would have been plate damage I am sure.
Gave it a bath and a drink as well as a trickle charge and she was as good as new.
I have noticed that the stainless steel connecting bars do get discoloured from the salts and also around the terminals of each "cell".
You will need plenty of grease to prevent fouling.
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dRdoS7

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Re: 3000w install in Australia
« Reply #18 on: November 29, 2016, 03:51:19 PM »
Hi,

I have a small ( 10 amp hour) edison battery which runs some led lights during blackouts here in summer.
Since I put the battery together and mixed electrolite and added to cells have been very slack on its maintenance.
Felt guilty the other day and got the battery off its shelf and gave it a clean up. It was very low on fluid and required nearly 1 liter of distilled water. I did test it before cleaning etc and it was showing 14.2 volts even with the low fluid level.
If it was a fla there would have been plate damage I am sure.
Gave it a bath and a drink as well as a trickle charge and she was as good as new.
I have noticed that the stainless steel connecting bars do get discoloured from the salts and also around the terminals of each "cell".
You will need plenty of grease to prevent fouling.

I used to have an APC UPS, and turned it off while we went away on holidays. We got back home, I turned it on, and it was dead. The batteries had expanded, and I had to drill out the case rivets to remove the swollen cells (4 x 12ah SLA). Batteries probably were on their last legs anyway, went to external packs instead.

I'll use a bit of Vaseline, the supplied bars are MS (copper coated & plated), I was expecting SS. 20mm studs & nuts: seems a bit of overkill, smeared all over with Vaseline. My AGMs used 8mm bolts.

dRdoS7
« Last Edit: November 29, 2016, 07:24:24 PM by dRdoS7 »

mike90045

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Re: 3000w install in Australia
« Reply #19 on: November 30, 2016, 03:40:36 AM »
........
A problem, which I had not had before is that my inverter beeps non stop when either the low (42v) or high (59v) alarm points are reached, and can't be disabled. The actual shutdown points are low=38.4v and high possibly=60v. can't find the high in the docs., and I've emailed the maker. I may need to do a test. I might disable the beeper with some blutac.........

What are your calculated voltage points for charging? 48V NiFe should be about 65-66V  Few inverters can take that voltage, but it's only a couple volts above lead acid EQ voltage.

And how do you plan to get water into those rear cells ?
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dRdoS7

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Re: 3000w install in Australia
« Reply #20 on: December 01, 2016, 04:30:44 PM »
Hi,

What are your calculated voltage points for charging? 48V NiFe should be about 65-66V  Few inverters can take that voltage, but it's only a couple volts above lead acid EQ voltage.

The seller told me to charge to 1.6v/cell. I have the bank set up as 36/4 ie. 36 cells in series, and 4 in a separate series string, parallel. Absorb is set to 57.6v, and have room to go higher if required.

Quote
And how do you plan to get water into those rear cells ?

There's plenty of clearance to access the fillers with a hose.

dRdoS7

australsolarier

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Re: 3000w install in Australia
« Reply #21 on: December 02, 2016, 04:23:45 PM »
dRdoS7,

once you are all set up and going, i am interested what the efficiencies  of your nife batteries are.

when i was a boy a friend if mine gave me an old nife battery. they came from tanks. and yes they were fully covered with a greasy material, i mean everythig.

dRdoS7

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Re: 3000w install in Australia
« Reply #22 on: December 03, 2016, 12:22:47 AM »
dRdoS7,

once you are all set up and going, i am interested what the efficiencies  of your nife batteries are.

when i was a boy a friend if mine gave me an old nife battery. they came from tanks. and yes they were fully covered with a greasy material, i mean everythig.

Yes, first few days it was around 20%, so far, the best I have had is 36%. I am measuring Ah in/out with a WBJr. I do see a slight improvement: yesterday (late afternoon) I ran for 2 hrs solely off battery, then back on solar charging, another 1 hr as the sun was going down.

More sunny days ahead *should* help to get heaps in to them.

Hope you said "tanks" to your friend for the battery!  ;D

You would have seen why my BTS wasn't reading?  :'(

dRdoS7

australsolarier

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Re: 3000w install in Australia
« Reply #23 on: December 03, 2016, 01:19:20 AM »
haha yes, i suspected as much (the battery sensor not working). never mind.

yes that greasy nife battery was from army surplus and very cheap at the time. the case was all metal and everything was greased. it was a real dust collector. my parents forced me to give it on to some other hopeful future solarist.

dRdoS7

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Re: 3000w install in Australia
« Reply #24 on: May 15, 2017, 07:37:39 PM »
Hi,

dRdoS7,

once you are all set up and going, i am interested what the efficiencies  of your nife batteries are.

Finally, after many months of trialling different battery configs, to allow me to keep using my "current" inverter, I have a setup that works.

For the last month I have the following:

IN = 2403 Ah
OUT = 2058 Ah
EFFICIENCY = 86%

I was (well still am, but I got around it) limited by the High (62v) and Low (38.5v) cut-outs of my inverter. I could have bought a new one, almost did, there was a run out model going really cheap, but they had run out. 24v 3000w SuperCombi. Missed it by that much!

Eventually, I worked out that my Classic could be charging 40 batteries (@ 67v), and my Inverter could be running off 35 batteries (@ 58v) at the same time. When the Classic voltage drops below 57v the inverter runs off 40 batteries. This allows me to get the max charge in at the highest voltage, and go down to the lowest voltage to discharge.

I tested it out swapping between (virtual 35 & 40) banks of batteries manually for a (very) short time, and it worked perfectly. So I installed a couple of EMRs and SSRs, plus 2 controllers. I am using my "old" AGMs as a Float bank to allow switching without effecting the inverter. I may need to wire in a dummy load to the 5 batteries not being discharged while charging, I notice that the voltages between the groups of 10 batteries is uneven, that may help. It probably won't hurt even if I leave it as is.

Been mostly dismal (Autumn) weather the last month, which is probably why the Eff. is so high. I would expect that once it's Spring, that it will drop, as I'll be putting a lot more, but not taking much more out than I do now. I use a timer to only run off solar/battery during Peak tariff times. Probably raise the End Amps, which at the moment is not being reached, and is set very low anyway. I'll have to watch/record to see what the amps are when the battery reaches 100% SOC plus about 10% or so. A week of sunny weather in November should do nicely. Last November I was only interested in getting the max in to the batteries to "condition" them.

Water usage is excellent ATM. In all (3 top ups), I've used 86 litres since Mid November. I bought a Water Distiller, and make my own: I wasn't going to pay $1.30/litre! I did buy 25 litres first off though, as I hadn't bought the Distiller originally. I run it with a timer which is set to operate at night (not sucking up my possible solar exports), and after peak tariff ends. I've made about 90 litres so far. I have a stock of about 30 litres. I was recording the actual power usage and cost, but I left the meter unplugged for a couple of weeks, and it lost all the readings. I know it makes 3.8 litres each time, runs for nearly 4 hours, 15 cents/kWh, and is 750 watt. So a lot cheaper. I use tap water, I could use water from my tank, but I'd have to walk too far from the garage (and back). Quite a bit of gunk left after each run.

I am running the distiller from the grid, over summer I could run it from my off-grid, but it needs some sort of controller so it only operates once the batteries are full, may be too much trouble/cost to set that up. I may look at if I ever get around to using Arduino to record the charging and battery voltages.

Thanks,

dRdoS7.
« Last Edit: May 15, 2017, 08:23:49 PM by dRdoS7 »

ralph day

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Re: 3000w install in Australia
« Reply #25 on: May 16, 2017, 07:36:13 AM »
Don't wait until you're in float to run the distiller.  I have one that is an opportunity load controlled by my Classic 250.  It starts operating when in absorb (or shortly before or after...you decide), and carries on into float mode.  In absorb the charge current is decreasing  leaving you an opening for an opportunity load.  I make a year's worth of distilled water in about 2 months this way.  But then I only use about 100litres per year.

Ralph

dRdoS7

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Re: 3000w install in Australia
« Reply #26 on: May 16, 2017, 11:51:10 PM »
Hi,

Don't wait until you're in float to run the distiller.  I have one that is an opportunity load controlled by my Classic 250.  It starts operating when in absorb (or shortly before or after...you decide), and carries on into float mode.

I'll need to free up Aux 1 first, as I use that to operate a relay which switches the grid off/on, depending on the battery voltage (Diversion). Aux 2 has WBJr.

Definitely better to use Solar than grid, but have to then decide whether I want full(ish) batteries, or water. I guess it doesn't necessarily have to finish the "cook" one go, wouldn't matter if it ran over 2 or more days. I'm not Walter BTW.

Thanks,

dRdoS7.

ralph day

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Re: 3000w install in Australia
« Reply #27 on: May 18, 2017, 08:30:44 AM »
In the past I've put a digital timer on the relayed circuit for the still.  There won't be enough power when first hitting absorb, it might be 1/2 to 3/4 of an hour before the still could run un-interrupted.  See when that is, in my case 13:00hrs when absorb started at 12:00noon.  If the still runs continuously you're not extending your charge cycle at all...just using the power available in your system.

I'm retired now, so I just run the still when I remember, and ther's enough power to do so.  I put a big 12vdc toggle switch to control the controller to relay 12vdc input.  It's even got an red led light so I can see if  the controller is in diversion at a distance.


Ralph