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Started by ClassicCrazy, December 15, 2013, 12:44:03 PM

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ClassicCrazy

I discovered most of my Local App not finding the Classic problems were due to the way the router was assigning DHCP numbers or something like that due to networking.  I went to network options on the Classic and made the IP number static and it worked much better with finding it all the time.
system 1
Classic 150 , 5s3p  Kyocera 135watt , 12s Soneil 2v 540amp lead crystal for 24v pack , Outback 3524 inverter
system 2
 5s 135w Kyocero , 3s3p 270w Kyocera  to Classic 150 ,   8s Kyocera 225w to Hawkes Bay Jakiper 48v 15kwh LiFePO4 , Outback VFX 3648 inverter
system 3
KID / Brat portable

phxmark

My Classic is set to a static IP address.  The Local App running on Windows works.  Only the newest version of the Local App is not working on OS X.  If I revert to the previous version on OS X, the Local App connects just fine.
Magnum MS-4448PAE
Midnite Solar Classic 200
6 SunPower E20 327W Panels.  3 Strings/2 Panels each
4 200ah AGM Batteries
WhizBang Jr.
Sun-500G Grid-Tie Inverter Controlled
by Aux 1 using a SSR
Emerson/ASCO 185 100 Amp Automatic Transfer Switch
http://midniteforum.com/index.php?topic=1564.0

atop8918

Hi,
Have you updated Adobe AIR itself on the OSX machine?

Thanks,
-A

TomW

Quote from: phxmark on January 27, 2014, 10:54:55 PM
The latest version of the Local App is not finding the Classic when ran on OS X 10.6.8.  If I remove the new version and install the previous version, it works.

I tried it with WiFi and Wired network.  I rebooted the Classic, computer and router and still could not get the latest version to find the Classsic.

Seems someone had a similar issue on a previous update. Might try removing the app and do a full reinstall from scratch?

Just guessing but that is what I remember? FYI 0.3.36 Local App works treat here.

Good luck with it.

Tom
Do NOT mistake me for any kind of "expert".

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)


24 Trina 310 watt modules, SMA SunnyBoy 7.7 KW Grid Tie inverter.

I thought that they were angels, but much to my surprise, We climbed aboard their starship and headed for the skies

phxmark

AIR is updated.  Previous version works, latest version doesn't.
Magnum MS-4448PAE
Midnite Solar Classic 200
6 SunPower E20 327W Panels.  3 Strings/2 Panels each
4 200ah AGM Batteries
WhizBang Jr.
Sun-500G Grid-Tie Inverter Controlled
by Aux 1 using a SSR
Emerson/ASCO 185 100 Amp Automatic Transfer Switch
http://midniteforum.com/index.php?topic=1564.0

atop8918

This looks like it is a known problem with the current version of AIR. According to the community boards they are working on a fix for it. Hopefully the next update of AIR will fix the problem. I don't see an ETA on it though.


Zachrey

Thanks a million to Jim Parish for solving a really tough problem for me!! Praise YHWH!!

Programming the Midnite Solar Classic Lite 150 charge controller over the ethernet/WiFi connected to your Internet router.

7/20/2016: I have a WIndows 7 Home laptop and I just installed the latest Adobe AIR (which did not help me connect to the controller, BTW).

A) You need to set dip switches to custom to program the controller otherwise your settings will NOT stick!
B) If you cannot communicate to controller from your PC, you may need to do a hard reset via jumpers on the controller ckt board.

If you cannot communicate with LocalStatusPanel or the Midnite Solar Local App, need to do hard reset by:

1) turn off solar array to controller
2) turn off battery to controller
3) open case  to access jumpers just above terminal block where PV and battery wires connect to controller
4) disconnect blue cable for Lite Display from upper jack on controller ckt board
5) pull off all jumpers from the four pairs of jumper pins just above the terminal block and keep them handy (should only be three jumpers)
6) turn on battery power
7) within 60 seconds of applying power, place jumper on the first pair of terminals called JP1 and a jumper on the last pair (JP4) called "boot"
8) observe blinkies going on for about 45 seconds as everything is rest to factory default
9) turn off battery power to controller
10) restore jumper to original setting. Jumper hanging on JP1 so not shorting, but just hanging or parked. JP2 with jumper parked or hanging, JP3 called LOK shorted and JP4 called boot no jumper at all.
11) Set SW1 of display behind Lite faceplate 1-7 ON and switch 8 OFF (this is for "custom setting"). I'm assuming you want to program Float, absorb and equalize voltages and times (absorb and equalization duration voltages and hours) and have them stick!
12) Switch bank 2 of display should have sw1 ON and all the rest OFF (for DHCP), which is the default, BTW.
13) reinstall display blue cable to top port called "Remote"
14) make sure ethernet cable is connected from controller to router
15) Start LocalStatusPanel on PC
16) turn on battery power to controller
17) Lord willing, the controller will show up on app and you can select "view"
18) In the Local App, click on the "Config" tab on upper part of text display then on the bottom of the text display there should be a "Tech" tab.
19) Click on Tech tab and scroll down to close to the bottom where there is a section called features.
20) check the box that says, "Night Auto Reset Enable". This will help make you can communicate with controller via PC.
21) Under "basic" there will be the basic charger settings and make sure everything is properly configured for your setup and it should be smooth sailing.

Thanks again , Jim!
May YHWH bless you and keep you.
May YHWH make His face to shine upon you and be gracious to you.
May YHWH lift up His countenance to you and give you shalom!

Robcurtis

My experience with this app has been that I try to get it to connect and it doesn't. Then 6 months later I try again and it works. People need this app as they get new batteries sometimes right? I just got 8 new 6 volts and I really need to enter new values or they are going to sulfate. I am really nervous about it at this point because again I can't get it to connect.

Both LAP and the classic have never worked right and I am frankly tired of being polite about it. I am thinking about selling this controller and going with another manufacturer.

Westbranch

Have you ever updated the FW?
What version are you running?  .
What computer O?S and version are you using?
You can update the settings via the MNGP, the LApp is simply  far more convenient.....
KID FW1811 560W >C&D 24V 900Ah AGM
CL150 29032 FW V.2126-NW2097-GP2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3Px4s 140W > 24V 900Ah AGM,
2 Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr, NetGr DS104Hub
Cotek ST1500 Inv  want a 24V  ROSIE Inverter
OmniCharge3024  Eu1/2/3000iGens
West Chilcotin 1680+W to come

ClassicCrazy

Quote from: Westbranch on January 24, 2017, 08:07:27 PM
Have you ever updated the FW?
What version are you running?  .
What computer O?S and version are you using?
You can update the settings via the MNGP, the LApp is simply  far more convenient.....

They have Classic Lite - so no MNGP

Rob Curtis
Yes getting computers to talk to controllers can be troublesome sometimes but once you work the bugs out it will work fine.
There are variables that sometimes  don't have anything to do with controller but have to do with router and network stuff.

Sounds like the steps that Zachery posted are good place to start.
But as Westbranch asked  - do you have the newest firmware installed ?
There have been many improvements that may help with that and other things.
Larry
system 1
Classic 150 , 5s3p  Kyocera 135watt , 12s Soneil 2v 540amp lead crystal for 24v pack , Outback 3524 inverter
system 2
 5s 135w Kyocero , 3s3p 270w Kyocera  to Classic 150 ,   8s Kyocera 225w to Hawkes Bay Jakiper 48v 15kwh LiFePO4 , Outback VFX 3648 inverter
system 3
KID / Brat portable