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choice of 2 batteries

Started by Zambian Kid, November 10, 2015, 06:41:36 AM

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Westbranch

Yes,  double the watts at 30 AMPS, if you have the PV to supply the Volts to make those  Watts.

Here is the KID sizing tool  :  http://www.midnitesolar.com/sizingTool_kid/index.php
KID FW1811 560W >C&D 24V 900Ah AGM
CL150 29032 FW V.2126-NW2097-GP2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3Px4s 140W > 24V 900Ah AGM,
2 Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr, NetGr DS104Hub
Cotek ST1500 Inv  want a 24V  ROSIE Inverter
OmniCharge3024  Eu1/2/3000iGens
West Chilcotin 1680+W to come

Zambian Kid

Hello all.
Thanks for all the knowledge u have shared with me. I finally connected it up late afternoon yesterday and it hit float. Was rather impressed.

But now I notice this morning my battery voltage is in the bulk range and it says it's in float MPPT at 12.8 volts. Though my float voltage is set at 13.6 and absorb is 14.4

Any help would be truly appreciated.
Opti Solar SP1200 12V hybrid inverter,
2x Ollandia HP12-100DG batteries sealed lead Acid maintenance free deep Cycle GEL batteries,
6x100w panels, 3strings in parallel,
And the KID,
yet to install the whizbang

Westbranch

12.8 is essentially fully charged, you need to use the batteries before they will 'accept' a normal (> 13.x V) charge voltage...
KID FW1811 560W >C&D 24V 900Ah AGM
CL150 29032 FW V.2126-NW2097-GP2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3Px4s 140W > 24V 900Ah AGM,
2 Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr, NetGr DS104Hub
Cotek ST1500 Inv  want a 24V  ROSIE Inverter
OmniCharge3024  Eu1/2/3000iGens
West Chilcotin 1680+W to come

Resthome

#18
Quote from: Zambian Kid on November 13, 2015, 01:42:22 AM
Hello all.
Thanks for all the knowledge u have shared with me. I finally connected it up late afternoon yesterday and it hit float. Was rather impressed.

But now I notice this morning my battery voltage is in the bulk range and it says it's in float MPPT at 12.8 volts. Though my float voltage is set at 13.6 and absorb is 14.4

Any help would be truly appreciated.

Float MPPT means you do not have enough PV voltage to get the voltage up to the float set point of 13.6V.

How do you have your panels connected? If you have 6 of those 100W panels. You should at least have 3 strings of 2 to get the PV voltage up. And remember you will not get the sticker rated wattage out of those panels you will most likely see 75-80% of the panel rating depending on panel temperature. Cooler is better for the panels, but the sun can heat them up on hot days which reduces the output.
John

10 x Kyocera KC140, Classic 150 w/WBJr, Link10 Battery Monitor, 850 AH @ 12v Solar One 2v cells, Xantrex PROwatt SW2000
Off Grid on Houseboat Lake Don Pedro, CA

Zambian Kid

Hey guys.   
Yeah read somewhere that I need 1.5 times the battery voltage. I'm not getting that on my input so I'm guessing that's my problem. They connected in parallel.

When u say 3 strings of 2 panel do you mean connect 2 in series so I have 3 sets of series then then the pos from those 3 are joined and the negs from the 3 joined then going to the input in that configuration?

Sorry still haven't got my head around the string thing.

Thanks for ur input.
Opti Solar SP1200 12V hybrid inverter,
2x Ollandia HP12-100DG batteries sealed lead Acid maintenance free deep Cycle GEL batteries,
6x100w panels, 3strings in parallel,
And the KID,
yet to install the whizbang

Westbranch

ZK, you want go here http://www.midnitesolar.com/pdfs/10-268-1_REV_D_The_Kid_Manual_Solar_4-30-15_FW_1797.pdf 
and then to page 45 for a Series diagram.... a

nd as well read the manual, lots of good info to fill in some of your questions...
KID FW1811 560W >C&D 24V 900Ah AGM
CL150 29032 FW V.2126-NW2097-GP2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3Px4s 140W > 24V 900Ah AGM,
2 Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr, NetGr DS104Hub
Cotek ST1500 Inv  want a 24V  ROSIE Inverter
OmniCharge3024  Eu1/2/3000iGens
West Chilcotin 1680+W to come

Resthome

Quote from: Zambian Kid on November 14, 2015, 05:44:51 AM
Hey guys.   
Yeah read somewhere that I need 1.5 times the battery voltage. I'm not getting that on my input so I'm guessing that's my problem. They connected in parallel.

When u say 3 strings of 2 panel do you mean connect 2 in series so I have 3 sets of series then then the pos from those 3 are joined and the negs from the 3 joined then going to the input in that configuration?

Sorry still haven't got my head around the string thing.

Thanks for ur input.

Yes, you want to have 3 sets that are in series and then parallel those 3 sets. A combiner boxes does exactly this function and provides a breaker for each string. Putting the 3 sets in series will increase you voltage from the PV and the Kid will then have enough voltage head room to sweep the PVs and find the best power point.
John

10 x Kyocera KC140, Classic 150 w/WBJr, Link10 Battery Monitor, 850 AH @ 12v Solar One 2v cells, Xantrex PROwatt SW2000
Off Grid on Houseboat Lake Don Pedro, CA

Zambian Kid

Hello everyone.

I have finally connected my panels in the 24v configuration as u all pointed out to me. Much better! I am now getting a good amount of volts and amps. I noticed when in full light I get the red LED Ovr come on. I have disconnected 2 panels now. Is it a problem when the LED comes on or can I connect all my panels up. I don't want to risk my kid being fried as I'm not home to baby sit it all day. Will be coming back with more questions as I went through the menu screen and got lost with things again lol.

Cheers knowledge gods.
Opti Solar SP1200 12V hybrid inverter,
2x Ollandia HP12-100DG batteries sealed lead Acid maintenance free deep Cycle GEL batteries,
6x100w panels, 3strings in parallel,
And the KID,
yet to install the whizbang

Zambian Kid

well just a quick update so far.

i  need a bigger capacity battery bank as mine runs down very fast. but also charges up very quick in the mornings with my inverter off. seem to do a rebulk charge everyday which i dont feel comfortable with. i have read some guys can go a day or 2 with it in absorb. read somewhere that someone has a system and he never seen a rebulk. cant be too good for the batteries can it.

would like to change up to a 24V system once i have the extra cash to expand. think i will start with panels then inverter and finally a new fresh battery bank... makes most sense in  that order to me.

Mike
Opti Solar SP1200 12V hybrid inverter,
2x Ollandia HP12-100DG batteries sealed lead Acid maintenance free deep Cycle GEL batteries,
6x100w panels, 3strings in parallel,
And the KID,
yet to install the whizbang

ClassicCrazy

You could also try using the load control to turn on some loads when the batteries are already full .  Some people heat water or turn on fans, etc.  You may want to get an external relay though so you can switch the large loads that the built in contacts won't handle.

Larry
system 1
Classic 150 , 5s3p  Kyocera 135watt , 12s Soneil 2v 540amp lead crystal for 24v pack , Outback 3524 inverter
system 2
 5s 135w Kyocero , 3s3p 270w Kyocera  to Classic 150 ,   8s Kyocera 225w to Hawkes Bay Jakiper 48v 15kwh LiFePO4 , Outback VFX 3648 inverter
system 3
KID / Brat portable

Zambian Kid

Hi Larry.

Yeah I thought off that but my panels are in the shade from 2pm and the sun sets at 6pm. So it's all good for now till I get my panels in a better place. Was wondering if I got a 70amp relay, could it be possible to run an inverter off it through the load terminal signal, and should I activate my load when it's in float?

Mike
Opti Solar SP1200 12V hybrid inverter,
2x Ollandia HP12-100DG batteries sealed lead Acid maintenance free deep Cycle GEL batteries,
6x100w panels, 3strings in parallel,
And the KID,
yet to install the whizbang

ClassicCrazy

I think I read somewhere it isn't a good idea to try and switch an inverter on and off - at least not at full load. My outback has a remote switch that will turn it on and off but that is not switching the full load. I haven't played around with aux contacts  or load controls on my stuff yet.

If your system fills up right away then the float control will probably work - but you would have to size your load less then what your panels put out because once it went out of float then it would switch off again.

I know on the Classic there are a lot of other options on switching via AUX contacts but not too familiar with what the Kid will do.

Larry
system 1
Classic 150 , 5s3p  Kyocera 135watt , 12s Soneil 2v 540amp lead crystal for 24v pack , Outback 3524 inverter
system 2
 5s 135w Kyocero , 3s3p 270w Kyocera  to Classic 150 ,   8s Kyocera 225w to Hawkes Bay Jakiper 48v 15kwh LiFePO4 , Outback VFX 3648 inverter
system 3
KID / Brat portable

Zambian Kid

I'm looking at running a 100w inverter that runs a 45w fan. So the draw is rather minimal.

Opti Solar SP1200 12V hybrid inverter,
2x Ollandia HP12-100DG batteries sealed lead Acid maintenance free deep Cycle GEL batteries,
6x100w panels, 3strings in parallel,
And the KID,
yet to install the whizbang

CDN-VT

What are your most available items you want in the voltages ? Fans in 12Vdc & in 220Vac ? Led lights in ?
You can get a 720Watt pyle  converter 24Vdc to 12Vdc  .
Not good to switch an inverter on & off , and have any load .

I would "PLAN" to know what I want the power to drive & figure the amount of draw.
I read your limited on the battery type , 12Vdc  3 strings of 2 panels or 24Vdc in 2 strings of 3 panels , with a converter .
Inverters use more power to run than a converter PWM type. for 12Vdc led lights,but require large/thicker  wire to run .

Good read Mike

VT
Canadian Solar 350W 37.6 VOC  30.6 VMP 8.22 ISC 7.87 IMP ,-15 c +30c max  4 strings in 2 in Series for 24v Classic 150 -1020 Ah  Freezers & fridges ~~~ Second Array same panels of 3sx3 parallel for 24 V Classic 150 -440 Ah Outback Barns & out blds.
48Vdc almost done,11Strings up of 3s11P same panels