Failed to update firmware after 1% and stuck at flashing

[trigrong]

Hello,

Today tried to update firmware to latest version. Done everything by instruction but after 1% of loading the firmware I got error that connection to classic lost. After that all leds flashes and I can't reset the Classic even with hardwar reset. Any help, ideas?  Thank you very much!

[zoneblue]

This hasnt happend to me. But the general guidelines are these:

- dont panic (hard i know)
- if you are using local app, or any other ethernet , unplug all that first.
- use a laptop with a full battery, known good mini b usb cable, straight into the classic.
- repeat everything from the start.
- follow the instructions to the letter.

As far as i have seen, it recovers really well from a failed install. 

[trigrong]

zoneblue, thank you but so far no luck

The hardware reset does not initiate. The classic hung in that flashing leds status.  I tried to update firmware multiple times but got some weird results. When I plug in the USB cable some time the driver is not up or windows thinks it is a USB unknown device but not virtual loader. SOmetime it recognize well but in several seconds lost connection. I tried short USB cable and was able to set up driver correctly with COM8 port.  But after that at update procedure I got this:

COM8 port opened
Downloading: 0%

After some seconds it says:  Failed,  Classic is not responding.

Any ideas?
Why I decided to update firmware - it is nightmare. I live in Russia and mail classic to US for firmware restore is not an option.
Is there any way to get some logs from classic?  Maybe some software that allow to login as admin and see what is going on inside and reset classic with some commad?

[Resthome]

What OS are you using on the computer doing the update?

[Vic]

Hi trigrong,

So,  your Classic is a Lite,  and you have done the Reset.

But,  I wonder if you have waited for the LEDs on the Classic to stop blinking before removing the jumpers from the Reset configuration.

Just to make certain,  please look again at these following instructions:

"The way to do the hardware version of the factory restore (VMM)is as follows. There are 4 sets of jumpers directly above the blue terminal block. For the purpose of this we will call the left most jumper JP1 and the right most JP4 (actually labeled "Boot") •Step 1- Turn the PV and Battery power off to the Classic and remove the front cover
•Step 2- Locate the 2 jumpers JP1 and JP2. Take the actual jumpers and keep them in your hand
•Step 3- Turn the Battery power on to the classic
•Step 4- within 1 minute place jumper JP4 on its two pins and then place jumper JP1 on its two pins. at this point the 3 LEDs on the top of the circuit board should flash back and forth for about 60 seconds.
•Step 5- After the flashing stops (wait about one minute,  to be sure)   power down the classic and remove JP1 and JP4 and stow them back on a single pin like they where.
•Step 6- Put the front cover on and power up the Classic Lite (or Classic). If you have the MNLP set to Custom you will need to go to the local app and reset the battery voltage and setpoints etc."

I needed to do the jumper Reset on two Classics,   and I did not wait long enough when first trying to do the reset,  so  ...

NOTE:  When doing the Jumper Reset,  you MUST WAIT for the LEDs on the Classic main board to STOP blinking --  previously,  I gave up too soon,  and guess that all of the Resetting was not complete.  (this wait interval was not actually defined in Erik's posted info from boB - IMO).  One Classic reset took about 45 seconds,  the other about 38 seconds,  by my count.

AND,  there IS a lot of customized data that must re-entered into the Classics to return them from the Factory Defaults.

Just to try to make sure that the full reset  has taken place before removing jumpers.

YES,  it is very troubling when an Update fails,  and you cannot go back to the original firmware.

Good Luck,   Vic

[trigrong]

Trien on Win 7 and XP.

Was waiting for reset t least 15 mins - no changes. The thing is that flashing not changing to back and forth when I set jumpers to its pins. All leds flashes. Autoreboot doesn't happen. Local app is not connected. It looks like firmware crashed on it's way and crashed something else. Support guy suggested to clean contacts in USB cable with WD40 but I looked - they looks good. Tomorrow will try to do that and if it doesn't help, will request for RMA

Thank you all for trying to help.

[Resthome]

With the short USB cable plugged into Classic and computer. Turn off PV breaker and then turn off Classic. Turn Classic battery breaker back on.   Look in device manager under Ports Com you should see the Midnite driver list for Com8. If that connection stays connected then then try turning Classic breaker off and start firmware app and select the appropriate Classic model and turn Classic battery breaker on. Check Device Manger for Com8 connection under Ports again. If it is staying connected and you are still seeing the the downloading stuck at zero % the only suggestion I would have is to uninstall the firmware update software and download a new copy and try reinstalling.

If you are seeing the connection in the device manager drop off while in the firmware update process and the Classic is still powered on that would indicate a connection issue. The only time it should drop off is when the Classic is powered off.

[zoneblue]

The reset will do nothing until you have completed the firmware install.

As RH says not being able to hold a com port connection is unusual. IF youve tried redownloading the firmware, different usb cables, and both XP and W7, then im not sure what is going on. Do you have another computer to try?

[boB]

I believe this is the issue I saw come up on our support issues email.

Since it started to work, meaning that the update got to 1% update from 0% update
and then stopped, it sounds like it may be a bad USB cable.

If you have not tried another USB cable, please try another one.

Does the PC computer see the USB connection to the Classic when it is plugged in and turned on ?
You can look in Control Panel on the PC (windows), Device Manager and then COM ports and Printers
and make sure that COM8 comes up when the Classic is turned on and connected.  It should go
away when the Classic is either turned off or disconnected from the USB.  If this works then
you should be able to update the Classic still.

Make sure that your remove those two jumpers you used when trying to do that factory
restore.  The Classic will not update or flash LEDs with those jumpers installed.

But I think you saw LEDs flashing so that must mean that you did remove those jumpers.

When you got the update to run the first time and it went to 1% done, that means that the
Classic has erased its application code and has started to update.  If you can get
to that point again, then it should be able to go all the way.

Sometimes you have to turn ON the Classic while connected and then, within about one second time,
then tell the PC to update the Classic firmware by pressing the correct Classic model. 150, 200 or 250.

Also, sometimes you may have to try a few times for it to take and start updating. Every time you re-start
to try, you must turn off the Classic and turn it back on again and press the update Classic button on
the PC software.

Please keep us posted.

Thanks,
boB

[trigrong]

Guys,  you were right,  the USB slot was a problem. 

The WD40 done the magic! After cleaning the contacts on USB I was able to update the firmware and controller started to work.  The only difference, at night, in resting mode, all leds flashing instead of green as before. But I was able to connect via Local App, it says - resting and shows correct information. At day, charging worked as expected. It's bad that hardware reset doesn't always work.  I really paniced. Even found similar solar controler produced by russians and was going to buy it

Thank you all for the help!

[trigrong]

after restart, the led status works normal.

[zoneblue]

Awesome, i dont recall anyone ever bricking a classic, they are good like that. After the firmware, then do the hardware jumper reset. Also 2074 did have a flashing leds bug with some versions of the MNLP. If you see that, the controller is charging fine anyway.