Temperature in controller shed

[Vic]

Yes not knocking that things are the way they are. I know from personal experience what the effects are and Just work with the +&- to find a balance that works for the particular installation. Personally I'm pedantic about keeping power electronics and lithium batterys cool so I will go beyond the norm to see that happen.

If I am after another 3rd controller it will be another classic so I'm happy with the product.

Remote Battery voltage sensing is about the only thing I would like to see in the future on the classic if i had a wish list.
Kurt

Hi Kurt,

Yes,  sure do agree with the 'cooler is better' approach.

AND,  also agree with the need/desire for the ability of the Classic,  (and the KID) to be able to read actual battery voltage.

But,  realize that MN needs to keep focused on the much larger segments of the RE hardware market  --  as in Inverters.

Guess that we will need to be patient for a while longer.

Thanks for your read on things,    Vic

[russ_drinkwater]

One thing I will be doing to the mounting of both my classics is spinning up a few
1-2 cm long pieces of alloy tubing and moving the CC off the mounting board to allow
air flow behind the unit. This is a large surface area is is held close and snug to the mounting board and
so allows little air flow and heat dissipation. May not make a huge difference, but has to help with heat losses.
Any concerns about this practice?

[TomW]

One thing I will be doing to the mounting of both my classics is spinning up a few
1-2 cm long pieces of alloy tubing and moving the CC off the mounting board to allow
air flow behind the unit. This is a large surface area is is held close and snug to the mounting board and
so allows little air flow and heat dissipation. May not make a huge difference, but has to help with heat losses.
Any concerns about this practice?

Russ;

I did something similar with a stack of 3 or 4 washers when I installed the wall mounted Classic at the farm. Seemed to not be a problem and certainly should enhance cooling.  Not sure of the "official" reaction to doing it. The others were on aluminum Epanels so no need with those.

Just from here.

Tom

[russ_drinkwater]

Hello Tom,
Mine is mounted on 20mm ply wood and I just want to lift the unit off the wood and give it some breathing space.
I did the same to my mates elcheapo chinese inverter and it lasted years even after the cooling fan died and was replaced.
Can not do any harm in my opinion.

[dgd]

Hello Tom,
Mine is mounted on 20mm ply wood and I just want to lift the unit off the wood and give it some breathing space.
I did the same to my mates elcheapo chinese inverter and it lasted years even after the cooling fan died and was replaced.
Can not do any harm in my opinion.

Russ,

Any effort to increase heat removal is good. I mount the Classic on a section of 5mm plate aluminium about 30mm wider and taller than the Classic and then use 25mm spacers between the plate and plywood wall. A generous dollop of heat sink compound on back of Classic lets heat into the plate.

dgd

[offgridQLD]

Russ I did just what you mentioned. My two controllers are mounted to 19mm form ply. I Turned up a few little 20mm aluminum stand off blocks for both controllers. It's just enough to slip your fingers behind the controllers and you could really feel the difference between the classic that was on 2s and the one on 3s. on the left hand side behind the inductors.

I have the air conditioner vents facing down to blow chilled air over the case and down the back of them.

I use the knockouts in the back of the case so all my cable runs out the back and just use the suplyed screened vent plugs on all the holes in the side and bottom of the case. To help with airflow.

Kurt

[russ_drinkwater]

Yeah, I look at it like sleeping on a warm flannel sheet in summer time. No matter what you do you still get sweaty.
Air flow at all possible areas has got to help.
My setup is no where as neat as yours Kurt, lol.
I just do not want any geko's climbing into my reg in winter time!
Little turds will camp on the laptop screen in winter time for warmth  
I have been monitoring the battery temps and even on the hottest high humidity days we have been having they get to 27c.
Most of the time they hover around 25c.
Wife threw out the 48volt/100amp circuit breaker I have near the battery box the other day. The latronics 3kw unit had 2 fridges, 2 freezers, 1000 watt dehydrator running off the system and Chel switched on the 1200 watt electric toaster. All came to a sudden stop.
I though the inverter tripped out, but after 5 mins had a look and it was the battery lead circuit breaker. So we must have been drawing over 10 amps at 240 volts, lol.
These last few days I have been jealous of your batteries A/c room, lol.
Sweating like a pig with the atmosphere the way it has been.
The 8kw unit for our lounge room chews at the refund from the power company, lol.
Hey Kurt, is your clipper hydraulic for the cables?
If so and you think it will work on 1/2 inch copper pipe homemade cable ends please put it in your camper, lol.
Just want to see if the crimped ends are better than soldered ends.
Is it an expensive unit or elcheapo evil bay type?
I often wonder whether the old style pure lead battery connecting straps would be a better less loss option?

[Westbranch]

Russ, took this last week in ICEland, it should cool you down...

[offgridQLD]

Great photo Westbranch. With all that water, Ice and snow.Given the chance  Russ would be rolling around in it lapping it up

Russ my crimper is a 12ton hydraulic unit with dia sets for both electrical lugs and swagging stainless steel cable lugs. Max Lug size is 95mm2  or 000 gauge size. Its reasonably compact- small but I like that as its handy when you need to make a crimp in tight space.

It's a Ebay job but really as long as the dies are reasonably accurate what can go wrong. It's just a single action hydraulic cylinder. It came with a spare set of seals . I have done 100's of SS cable swaggers with it  and a good 50+ large cable lugs for myself and friends without any issues to day still on the original seals.

Unless your swagging big steel cables for overhead lifting equipment or the like then the ebay  units are fine.

It will crimp your 1/2 inch water pipe fine. Though if you want I can pack in some proper heavy wall tinned copper lugs for you and heat shrink over them and tart it all up for you  Crimping is safer then solder because if there is a short or very high load the cable could get hot and melt the solder. The crimper end up so tight it almost cold forging the copper together as one block.

If you take the wires out the back of the classic in flex conduit and install all the 4 little round screened plugs they provide. It helps cool air enter the bottom of the classic. Keeps the wiring looking neat and stop the bugs and lizards getting in.

Kurt

[BobWhite]

Russ, took this last week in ICEland, it should cool you down...

WB, where in Iceland did you get the photo? I have a ton of Iceland if i could find them, mostly in slides. I spent time in Keflavik Photographing, hope to go back someday. Great photo!

Walt

[Westbranch]

it's the Gullfoss waterfalls... send me  a pm with email if you want a few more

[russ_drinkwater]

The only snow I have ever felt is the icy presence of women over the years when they are pissed at something!
Looks great and I must get down to the snowies here in Oz before I am too old to have a bit of fun.
But I am sure I will be over it once my bones start aching, lol.
Your cable crimper sounds like the same one my mate George has Kurt.
I do have a crimper but it is a powder fired Dr. Blitzen brand made in Germany and god knows what it cost new.
It will crimp up to 2 inch lugs.
Have never used it since I picked it up in a 2nd hand shop "Cash Convertors".
I can send photos of heat waves and thermal shimmers if anyone wants some to put up over their bed in winter time over there
in the states??
Or your battery boxes, Lmao.

[mike90045]

One thing I will be doing to the mounting of both my classics is spinning up a few
1-2 cm long pieces of alloy tubing and moving the CC off the mounting board to allow
air flow behind the unit. This is a large surface area is is held close and snug to the mounting board and
so allows little air flow and heat dissipation. May not make a huge difference, but has to help with heat losses.
Any concerns about this practice?

Russ;
I did something similar with a stack of 3 or 4 washers when I installed the wall mounted Classic at the farm. Seemed to not be a problem and certainly should enhance cooling.  Not sure of the "official" reaction to doing it. The others were on aluminum Epanels so no need with those.

Just from here.  Tom 

The new 100A magnum PT-100, has a back side "spider" spacer to get the controller off the back wall and use the acreage behind it for cooling.    Haven't loaded it up yet, but it's also got a pair of fans inside.   Don't know if they are screamers or loafers.

[TomW]

Before I went grid tie, I ran a small clutch of Classics.

They all had spacers (spelled stack of washers) between them and the Epanels they were mounted to.

Probably not needed as those Epanels were aluminum and probably dissipated heat very well compared to wall board or plywood type material.

I would say you have no worries doing that just be sure the fasteners get enough bite to hold the controller(s) securely.

Like you, I figured more was better when it came to airflow around the unit and I see no reason not to use spacers as it worked fine for me.

Just like vehicle mileage ratings, your results  may vary.

Tom