WBJr and no 100% SOC indication?

[Jacotenente]

Has anyone's SOC not reset to 100% after a day of full sun/charge? I am not sure what is going on...but, I have three Classics in Follow Me and now the "Master" Classic (the one with the BTS and AUX2 purple WBJr wire) does not register "100%" after going into Float. It all started when I swapped out #6 battery cables to #4 AWG cables. I was still able to see current flow in this configuration.

My attempt to fix:
Tonight I swapped over the BTS cable and swapped out the WBJr (I had a new spare one in the box) and wired them up my newest Classic (REV 2079) as the "Master". I followed Ryan's video to the "T". Everything fired back up (blue Follow Me lights blinking and current flow registering out of the shunt/WBJr). So, it appears everything is talking and happy. I will monitor.

Question:
If my SOC comes back (resets to 100% after Absorb is done) in the new configuration...is the WBJr under warranty? It has been just under a year.

Thoughts?

Thanks guys

-Chris

[Vic]

Hi Chris,

So,  do ALL of the Classics that are connected in the FollowMe loop have the identical Firmware?

If the Classics exited Absorb by a person Forcing Float,  the SOC will not reset to 100 %.   Did the Classics exit Absorb based upon Shunt EA,  or by Absorb time expiration?

AND,  am not quite clear when you "swapped battery cables",  but,  seems to me,  that if this was done on the day when the SOC did not return to 100%,  perhaps the interruption of charging by switching the Classic's power,  to do the cable swapping,  might have meant that the Classic cannot know what was happening,  so  it possibly did not update the SOC.

I would wait until the Classic transitions on its own to Absorb to see what happens.

And re the state of the WBjr board that was removed;  the WBjr is really just a
measuring and reporting device,  to a Classic.  It is the Classic that does the tabulation of current flows,  calculation and reporting of the SOC.
FWIW,    Thanks,   Vic

[Jacotenente]

Thanks Vic - The firmware is still not the same for all three Classics. I have been watching for a week+ with full sun/charging cycles for the SOC to reset back to 100%. The battery cables are the ones that attach to the Classic's blue terminal board. I am kinda apprehensive messing with REV firmware updates since my KID lost it's brains when I attempted to do that with W10. And, I have heard many issues with this latest REV. I like the Midnite Solar Classic's SOC feature...but, it isn't a "show stopper" in the big scheme of things (low on my priority list...but, would still like it to work as designed). Thanks.

[Vic]

   ...   The firmware is still not the same for all three Classics. I have been watching for a week+ with full sun/charging cycles for the SOC to reset back to 100%. The battery cables are the ones that attach to the Classic's blue terminal board. I am kinda apprehensive messing with REV firmware updates since my KID lost it's brains when I attempted to do that with W10. And, I have heard many issues with this latest REV. I like the Midnite Solar Classic's SOC feature...but, it isn't a "show stopper" in the big scheme of things (low on my priority list...but, would still like it to work as designed). Thanks.

Hi Chris,

First,  have the Classics made the transition from Absorb to Float,  on their own?   That is,  have the Classics made the transition from Absorb to Float by either the Shunt EA having been met,  OR,  by the set Absorb time having been met?

You can reset the SOC to 100%,  yourself.   When the Classics have gone to Float on their own,  and you believe that your batteries ARE fully-charged,   you can go to the  WBjr Status page,  the one that shows the present status,  including the amount of current flowing into/out of the battery.  Believe that you hold down the Left
Arrow key,  and tap Enter ...  this should reset the SOC to 100%,  IIRC.

AND, I completely understand some reluctance in considering Updating the Firmware of Classics.  About 15 months ago,  or so,  I was able to "brick"  two Classics at a remote site,  which created a real PANICed feeling.   Took some hours to recover,  and only then with considerable help from Forum members.   Those two Classics are still at FW Version 1849,  and have not had the courage (yet) to take another run updating those and other Classics ...   am getting close to taking another run at it.  Not to rag on MN,  but DO wish that the Update process seemed more predictable ...   (sorry to mention this)

FWIW,   Good Luck,   Vic

[russ_drinkwater]

I am not sure of the in's and out's of the WBJ function. But mine will show say 88% SOC in the batteries if there a bit of cloud and I will flick
the standalone system over to grid tie to make sure the batteries are fully charged for the night ahead. Now that lower state of charge may have been sitting there for 2 hours under minimal load from the inverter and within 1 hour the batteries will show 100% SOC and the reg will jump to float. I have checked the SG's of the trojans and their are well over 1275 so I am not sure whether the WBJ is under stating the SOC
a tad or what. I say this because I only have 1600 watts of panels connected to one reg atm and input at time of load switch off is around
10amps. So roughly 105 amps has gone in to the batteries in an hour.

[Jacotenente]

   ...   The firmware is still not the same for all three Classics. I have been watching for a week+ with full sun/charging cycles for the SOC to reset back to 100%. The battery cables are the ones that attach to the Classic's blue terminal board. I am kinda apprehensive messing with REV firmware updates since my KID lost it's brains when I attempted to do that with W10. And, I have heard many issues with this latest REV. I like the Midnite Solar Classic's SOC feature...but, it isn't a "show stopper" in the big scheme of things (low on my priority list...but, would still like it to work as designed). Thanks.

Hi Chris,

First,  have the Classics made the transition from Absorb to Float,  on their own?   That is,  have the Classics made the transition from Absorb to Float by either the Shunt EA having been met,  OR,  by the set Absorb time having been met?

You can reset the SOC to 100%,  yourself.   When the Classics have gone to Float on their own,  and you believe that your batteries ARE fully-charged,   you can go to the  WBjr Status page,  the one that shows the present status,  including the amount of current flowing into/out of the battery.  Believe that you hold down the Left
Arrow key,  and tap Enter ...  this should reset the SOC to 100%,  IIRC.

AND, I completely understand some reluctance in considering Updating the Firmware of Classics.  About 15 months ago,  or so,  I was able to "brick"  two Classics at a remote site,  which created a real PANICed feeling.   Took some hours to recover,  and only then with considerable help from Forum members.   Those two Classics are still at FW Version 1849,  and have not had the courage (yet) to take another run updating those and other Classics ...   am getting close to taking another run at it.  Not to rag on MN,  but DO wish that the Update process seemed more predictable ...   (sorry to mention this)

FWIW,   Good Luck,   Vic

Hey Vic - Hopefully I can answer all your questions. All three in "Follow Me" mode work flawlessly. Each go from Bulk-Absorb-Float together (like they are playing well together). As of 1630L here in Oklahoma, the system went into "Float" and the SOC indicates 100% SOC (like it should). All I did was install the spare (new) WBJr into the Classic 150 with REV 2079 (my refurb one) and did what Ryan showed on the video for making it the "Master". So, looks like the problem sorted itself out. Thanks for the additional info about manual resets. BTW - I "Absorb" my 12 Trojan L16's (24v system) for 3 hours...no issues with not having enough PV power coming in (re-doing my arrays out back). Check out my videos on Youtube under Chris DIYer if you want...new cradle/racking systems. Getting better at this RE stuff...but, still live in suburbia with a tiny backyard. I won't/can't roofmount here.

V/R
Chris

[Vic]

Hi Chris,

Thanks for the update,   good news!

If the WBjr that you removed was flashing its green LED about every five seconds,  then I would be that it is OK.

Had seen one of your earlier videos,  looks like a nice system.   Believe that you are in Tornado Alley (IIRC),  so Good Luck,    Thanks,   Vic

[Westbranch]

I have checked the SG's of the trojans and their are well over 1275 so I am not sure whether the WBJ is under stating the SOC

Have you looked into the battery settings?  That is where you can enter efficiency and a second parameter to fine tune the way the WBjr algorithms calculates...

[russ_drinkwater]

In the charge section?

[Westbranch]

on the Last page of the LApp settings I think

[Vic]

I am not sure of the in's and out's of the WBJ function. But mine will show say 88% SOC in the batteries if there a bit of cloud and I will flick
the standalone system over to grid tie to make sure the batteries are fully charged for the night ahead. Now that lower state of charge may have been sitting there for 2 hours under minimal load from the inverter and within 1 hour the batteries will show 100% SOC and the reg will jump to float. I have checked the SG's of the trojans and their are well over 1275 so I am not sure whether the WBJ is under stating the SOC
a tad or what. I say this because I only have 1600 watts of panels connected to one reg atm and input at time of load switch off is around
10amps. So roughly 105 amps has gone in to the batteries in an hour.

russ,

Here is Surrette Battery's recommendation of measuring SGs,  it is thorough,  and is something that I agree with:
http://support.rollsbattery.com/support/solutions/articles/4347-measuring-specific-gravity

Some folks use a Reftactometer for accurate SG readings,  but,  here,  still use  a Freas Glass tube/glass float Hydrometer.

For your location,  your Hydrometer may be reading a bit on the low side of things,  at that,  due to probable warm batteries,  even your Fall weather.

The MidNite-marketed HydroVolt Hydrometer is good,  and this is what I use as a backup,  but its standard sample tube is far too short for larger batteries.

Most of the important settings for the WBjr,  is found in the WBjr setup menu pages,  by pressing the Main Status navigation button about four times,  and then More (left Soft Button) several times to set,  Batt Efficiency, Reference Temp,  AH Capacity of the battery,  etc.

FWIW,   Vic

[Jacotenente]

Hi Chris,

Thanks for the update,   good news!

If the WBjr that you removed was flashing its green LED about every five seconds,  then I would be that it is OK.

Had seen one of your earlier videos,  looks like a nice system.   Believe that you are in Tornado Alley (IIRC),  so Good Luck,    Thanks,   Vic

Vic - Thanks...been at this "partial" off-grid for a few years now. Last electric bill was $28. Most of that was my 240v stuff. Everything else is running off my ProTran transfer panel 24/7. As for the old WBJr...I can't remember if it was blinking every 5 secs or not. The new WBJr is blinking bright/every 5 secs. I am smack dab in the heart of tornado alley (Moore, OK). It is RARE if I find anyone doing home solar here...unlike the east & west coasts. There are commercial wind farms here in Oklahoma...but, they park them because they over-produce power. There is some statute or law or agreement that they can only harvest X-amount of KW/H and push back onto the grid. It is nonsense. Oklahoma has excellent wind and PLENTY of sunshine. Too many morons in government here.

[russ_drinkwater]

Thanks for that Vic.
I have a couple of refractometers coming now. Evil bay here in aus was a lot cheaper for the same unit compared to amazon.
And many of the sellers for Usa will not post to australia.