Wiring for generator (manual start) to outback E-panel

Started by pat1498, February 17, 2018, 05:39:40 PM

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pat1498

I'd like to attach my manual start generator (champion 9000w) to my outback FX based system. I believe my panel is midnight MNE125STS. 

If I wire an AC outlet into the pre-cut space on the panel, I would end up needing a male  to male cord.  I'm new to this scale of residential solar systems (with AC inputs) but fairly certain that's a terrible idea.

Wiring a heavygauge extension cord directly into the panel's AC busses and leaving a hanging male cord (to plug into the generator) doesn't seem correct either.

What is the correct wiring solution here?

dbcollen

Quote from: pat1498 on February 17, 2018, 05:39:40 PM
I'd like to attach my manual start generator (champion 9000w) to my outback FX based system. I believe my panel is midnight MNE125STS. 

If I wire an AC outlet into the pre-cut space on the panel, I would end up needing a male  to male cord.  I'm new to this scale of residential solar systems (with AC inputs) but fairly certain that's a terrible idea.

Wiring a heavygauge extension cord directly into the panel's AC busses and leaving a hanging male cord (to plug into the generator) doesn't seem correct either.

What is the correct wiring solution here?

Wiring a heavy guage cord to the input breaker is the correct way.

pat1498

Thanks @dbcollen.

I was expecting to wire my stripped extension cord into the ac HOT-IN BUS, neutral bus and ground bus. 

This is what I see on page 17 expanded diagram, is that incorrect?
http://www.midnitesolar.com/pdfs/epanelManual.pdf

So, I also see that there is no nuetral/grnd bonding wire in the epanel AND the grnd wire from the house breaker box is going directly into the nuetral bus.  Maybe this explains why some household devices are shocking me. 

Should I add a nuetral/grnd bonding wire between those busses, or move the house breaker grnd to the grnd bus?


dbcollen

That is correct, in that diagram you would wire hot from genset directly to the ac in bussbar if the generator has an appropriately sized breaker built in. As for getting shocked, you have something wired wrong. Don't add a bonding screw to the midnite panel if there is already one in the main panel. that can cause ground loops and circulating currents that are potentially hazardous. You should have your hots, a neutral AND ground from the main panel tied to the appropriate bussbars in the midnite panel. Generator needs to be grounded as well.

mike90045

Quote from: pat1498 on February 17, 2018, 05:39:40 PM
If I wire an AC outlet into the pre-cut space on the panel, I would end up needing a male  to male cord.  I'm new to this scale of residential solar systems (with AC inputs) but fairly certain that's a terrible idea.

Yep.  There is a gizmo called in the trade (sometimes) Power Inlet Box  that connects to your lockout panel or transfer switch.
  You must determine for yourself, if your generator should be grounded, or if your electrical panel will supply the safety ground. That decision is driven mostly by the transfer switch you use, if it transfers the ground or not.
http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar

Classic 200| 2Kw PV, 160Voc | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph )| Listeroid 6/1, st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | midnight ePanel & 4 SPDs | 48V, 800A NiFe battery bank | MS-TS-MPPT60 w/3Kw PV

pat1498

Well shoot!

dbCcllen, That could be my issue!

The ground and neutral are bonded in the house panel AND both wired to neutral bus in e-panel; and the e-panel has no nuetral-ground bonding.


CDN-VT

So are you using a  outback inverter Model ?  Some have the aux line 2 gen feed input on the outback .
with the correct breakers & the correct outback with a mate to setup the inverter , then that could work .
The Outback will syncs in the genset so you don't let out the smoke , plus the mate will limit the amount the genset power is limited in charging .

That is HOW I see it done


VT

Edit add :
read here : Re: http://midniteftp.com/forum/index.php?topic=3978.msg38907#msg38907
Canadian Solar 350W 37.6 VOC  30.6 VMP 8.22 ISC 7.87 IMP ,-15 c +30c max  4 strings in 2 in Series for 24v Classic 150 -1020 Ah  Freezers & fridges ~~~ Second Array same panels of 3sx3 parallel for 24 V Classic 150 -440 Ah Outback Barns & out blds.
48Vdc almost done,11Strings up of 3s11P same panels

pat1498

Thanks all for your help.  It turns out my AC load line was pitched right above the e-panel!  Sheesh.

Now I want to make sure AC input and generator are wired correct.

Should the AC input wire from generator be:
* grounded to the busbar in the e-panel
* to it's own earth ground pin
* or to the same earth ground pin as the e-panel?

Subsequently, can the generator itself be grounded to the same earth pin, or should it have a completely separate one?

CDN-VT

Worst wiring pictures Ive seen .
Clean up the Box , lay it straight & then make sure the Pix you take are Great , so we may help .

Or let the smoke  out !! Cheap gen sets run floating !!
VT
Canadian Solar 350W 37.6 VOC  30.6 VMP 8.22 ISC 7.87 IMP ,-15 c +30c max  4 strings in 2 in Series for 24v Classic 150 -1020 Ah  Freezers & fridges ~~~ Second Array same panels of 3sx3 parallel for 24 V Classic 150 -440 Ah Outback Barns & out blds.
48Vdc almost done,11Strings up of 3s11P same panels

dbcollen

CDN that is mostly the factory e-panel wiring, the wiring has to be loose and long to allow the door to open.

CDN-VT

Really ? wow .
In the world Im to be judged on , Signed off from inspectors , All cables are to be SECURE and a door opening will move cables .
Must be a new school !  No one left out !

VT
Canadian Solar 350W 37.6 VOC  30.6 VMP 8.22 ISC 7.87 IMP ,-15 c +30c max  4 strings in 2 in Series for 24v Classic 150 -1020 Ah  Freezers & fridges ~~~ Second Array same panels of 3sx3 parallel for 24 V Classic 150 -440 Ah Outback Barns & out blds.
48Vdc almost done,11Strings up of 3s11P same panels