Adding Vents to the Classic 150

[Matrix]

I'm mounting it fin side "down" with the smooth side toward the classic.  That would be the correct way yes?

[Westbranch]

Yes that should give you max contact between Sink and Classic

[Vic]

I'm mounting it fin side "down" with the smooth side toward the classic.  That would be the correct way yes?

Yes.   Hope that the back (un-finned side)  is fairly flat.

Conductive grease (while messy)  might help heat transfer from the Classic's back side,  and the heatsink.   Probably too obsessive.

Looks nice,   have fun,   Vic

[Matrix]

I'm mounting it fin side "down" with the smooth side toward the classic.  That would be the correct way yes?

Yes.   Hope that the back (un-finned side)  is fairly flat.

Conductive grease (while messy)  might help heat transfer from the Classic's back side,  and the heatsink.   Probably too obsessive.

Looks nice,   have fun,   Vic

It is indeed perfectly flat.  Seems like $42 dollars well spent.    And my PC repair friend already volunteered his heat sink grease,  but I understand that stuff is toxic.  lol. 

Back in the day (aka 1992) we used to use Desitin Diaper Rash Cream in a pinch if we did not have any heat sink grease for CPUs  ... lol

[ClassicCrazy]

I am wondering if I have this correct - you are trying to squeeze every bit of power from your PV and you run it into an electric hot water heater to make sure you do right ?  And  you are concerned about the Classic getting too hot in the summer ?  Wouldn't it be easier to just heat the water using a simple hot water heating panel ? I think you are in Florida right ? You don't even have to worry about things freezing down there like we do up north.  Maybe still would want to have a heat exchanger.  But with that extra power seems like you could run an air conditioner which would help cool your house and if you had the system in cooled space it would also keep your controls and battery cool too.  That would seem like a more practical use of the energy in that it would increase the life of your equipment too especially the batteries. 

Larry

[ralph day]

Not liking the sound of CC fans running a lot I mounted a 120v muffin fan above my Classic 250, already had a SSR and outlet handy, runs when there's "daylight" (aux 1 option).  Never hear the CC fan run now/yet.

[Matrix]

I am wondering if I have this correct - you are trying to squeeze every bit of power from your PV and you run it into an electric hot water heater to make sure you do right ?  And  you are concerned about the Classic getting too hot in the summer ?  Wouldn't it be easier to just heat the water using a simple hot water heating panel ? I think you are in Florida right ? You don't even have to worry about things freezing down there like we do up north.  Maybe still would want to have a heat exchanger.  But with that extra power seems like you could run an air conditioner which would help cool your house and if you had the system in cooled space it would also keep your controls and battery cool too.  That would seem like a more practical use of the energy in that it would increase the life of your equipment too especially the batteries. 

Larry

Thanks for the suggestions ... Im very new at all this (as you can tell)

Yes the water heater is a simple dump.  And yes concerned about the CC getting too hot in the summer because it gets as hot as it does now in temps at 65°F in the room,  and that is not even with the excess power dump being on (it does not get any hotter with the water heater on, although it does stay hot longer at the same temp with the use of the excess power).  My big concern is, if this hot now,  what about when summer comes. 

I did not think I had enough power to run an AC reliably.  But man that is in the though processes,  at least for one 14x14 small bed room.   I thought about a mini split,  but even the hi SEER ones seem to still want 11 AC amps which would be a large demand from the solar, or a large drain on my 24v battery bank.  Still kicking my self I did not set it up 48v from the beginning.   (I just was not seeing things clearly).  I am right now leaning toward the smallest of small window units as they can be as low as 4.5 AC amps for the 5000 btu models (I think).  Seems that might be more realistic on my loads.   would still pull about 12-15 DC amps at 24v.

And Yes I have thought about running the water heater from 3 solo panels.   A friend of mine want to set up a system "just like mine"  (I am trying to steer him to 48v, but if he does not want that route he will by my gear) ... but when / IF he ever does ... I will tag on about 6  more panels for myself in his freight order.  3 for a solo water heating system,  and 3 for storage in case of damage and back up.

But right now,   the biggest hog to my AC consumption is the water heater,  and this is about the only thing I could power off of a diversion load that is on again / off again.  water heating is not mission critical as the top is still AC connected, so we get about 10-12 gallons even if the sun does not shine.  But if it does,  the top never comes on.  = less grid power. I cut my typical historical February power bill in half this last month.

But none of it is worth much if I melt down the CC 

[Matrix]

Larry, you also mention cool batteries.

What is a good charging temp for batteries?    I thought the happy spot was about 25°C,  with 30-35°C for the upper end of the charge amp intake (like when the amps are hi or you are doing an EQ) is OK.  What kind of temps am I looking for at different points in the cycle?   At night for loads, in the day for heavy charging?

[Matrix]

Heat Sink installed,  but I do not know how much good it will do.    Seems the plastic "channel" (maybe) that goes up to the top vent of the Classic does not allow for full good metal to metal contact of the Classic and the heat sink.   Kinda disappointed with that.   

There is metal to metal contact,  but not everywhere and not really good at the places that would be the warmest. 

I wonder,  can that plastic "channel" in the back of the classic to the top vent be removed?  I am guessing it is needed.   But it does stick out further than the metal case by a few millimeters, just enough to keep from being a tight fit of the case and heat sink.

Any way.  Here is the install ...

[Matrix]

But not sure why this sink, the way that the case did not lay tight to the sink,  is going to be better than 1/2" stand offs from the ply wood that i had before so that Air could move all the way around the CC.    We will see.  I will get the temps today.  But the fore cast hi supposed to be 66°F  so not really a heat wave 

[Matrix]

Not liking the sound of CC fans running a lot I mounted a 120v muffin fan above my Classic 250, already had a SSR and outlet handy, runs when there's "daylight" (aux 1 option).  Never hear the CC fan run now/yet.

What is your set up that you never hear the CC fans run?  How is the CC installed?  On Metal?

Mine came on 5 minutes after I switched the CC back on and the room was at 49°F.   My system at 10am began to run in Bulk and was producing 1200wattts about 45 amps charging my 435Ah 24v battery bank.  The fans came on within 5 minutes.  The FET temp was at about 48°C.

[Vic]

Hi Matrix,

That sink,   with the Classic on top looks good.

Believe that you could "mill" the part of the air channel for the Turbo fan down a bit on its back side.   Perhaps you could use coarse sandpaper that is on a flat surface to do this.

As you know,   this air channel guides air up,   and around the heat dissipating nibs that are behind the FET mounting rib.   If you need to mill so much of that air channel that there is a bit of a slot formed between the plastic air channel and the Classic case,  you could carefully caulk any gap with Silicone caulk.

Am certain that the back of the Classic case is not truly dead flat,   but your heatsink will be an interesting experiment,   and your reports on its function will be beneficial for many of us here.

Yes,   Larry is correct about your batteries;

Heat is the real killer for LA batteries.   Your batteries are OUTSIDE (in FL),   in some type of box.   This will expose them to outdoor temperatures,   AND  the box will probably trap some of the heat that comes along with Gassing (Absorb and EQ stages).   This will certainly shorten their lives.

Here,  we do A/C the power room,   and that A/C has priority,  over A/C in living spaces.

More later,   Vic

[Vic]

Not liking the sound of CC fans running a lot I mounted a 120v muffin fan above my Classic 250, already had a SSR and outlet handy, runs when there's "daylight" (aux 1 option).  Never hear the CC fan run now/yet.

What is your set up that you never hear the CC fans run?  How is the CC installed?  On Metal?

Mine came on 5 minutes after I switched the CC back on and the room was at 49°F.   My system at 10am began to run in Bulk and was producing 1200wattts about 45 amps charging my 435Ah 24v battery bank.  The fans came on within 5 minutes.  The FET temp was at about 48°C.

A number of us have the luxury of NOT having our power electronics IN living spaces.

The Power Room here is a sea-going Cargo Container,  225 feet from the Cabin (in one case).   Cannot hear any of the system acoustic noise from this system,  when outside,   near the cabin.

Assume that the Classic in in your living space,  somewhere.   AND,  perhaps this is why your batteries appear to be outside (?).

Anyway,   I am NOT Ralph,  but this was just my design choice.  FWIW,   Vic

[Matrix]

Thanks Vic for the info.   The good news (if you can call it good) my batteries are in a box yes,  but in a car port which will shield them from direct sun and full summer heat,  but I might just add 2 more 16" x 4" vents across the top for extra head and gas release.  I have it built so I can put the foam cut outs back in for winter to almost completely seal it off except for enough for gas venting.  My control room is an attached garage,  it has ventilation from under the house which helps keep it cooler than the outside air in summer.  but nothing is AC'ed

[Matrix]

And I probably should have waited until I could fully test the heat sink by itself .... but I had the fan and time ... so I installed a 4" PC fan connected to AUX1's SSR that controllers the AC water hearter.  Whenever AUX 1 comes on and sends 1150 watts to the water heater the fan comes on. 

I actually have 2 fans on hand.  The one I installed is a 4" that provides a nice gentle blow over the Classic.  It should probably work,  BUT ... if it does not,  the other one I have is about 1/2" thicker,  and provides a small hurricane of wind that would blow over the CC.    The first one pulls .07 amps,  the other pulls .85 amps.  So it moves a good bit of air.  If the smaller / quieter one does not produce successful results,  I will swap to the higher amp fan.

Here is how it looks so far.   The SSR connection is in the bottom right corner of the last open pic,  and is itself on a small heat sink