Need help with power disruption

[Vic]

Mike,

Was just trying to get the battery bank as fully-charged as possible,  using an Absorb voltage.   Then using EQ (which IS an overcharge condition for many cells in the battery bank).

Another way to do this,   would be to Limit the output current to about 5% of 20-hour C,   and doing an EQ,   expecting that the current Limit would cause the battery voltage to rise fairly slowly to the Veq.  Then EQing before the battery bank is as fully-charged as possible from a long Absorb.

There a number of things about this system,  particularly the condition of the battery that remain unknown.

If the battery spent much of its time Floating,  the low-ish Vabs and Veq would do a better job keeping the battery charged,   than would happen if the battery was seeing regular cycling ...   very difficult to know,  at this stage.

Still,   many,  many questions.    FWIW,   IMO,   etc,   Vic

BUT,  to me there has been some ambiguity in what was doing the EQ  --  the inverter,   the CC,   or,  perhaps both.

EQing FLAs at a current above about 5% of C,  can have negative impacts on the batteries,  in addition to an undesirable rate of battery temperature rise.

[TrustinHim]

Here is some more feedback on the battery SOC and system settings.
I put the batteries back in EQ again since the avg SG only went from 1.220 to 1.240 avg after the first EQ of their lives and an absorb charge of 62.8 V and 60 V respectively. Again, during the 2nd EQ there was heavy gassing but for only a little under an hour. There is now very little bubbling/gassing.
I am still learning how to set the timer and voltage settings for a manual EQ function. Also, the actual Amps to the batteries during inverter charging has evaded me.  Is this actual amp reading during charge found in the Classic or the Magnum Remote? Also, what needs to be done for the Magnum remote to receive COMM and is this necessary?

The inverter is definitely charging the batteries, and it looks like the PV is also contributing a negligible amount of power. The sub panel is being powered by the grid at this time so I am guessing the small amount of power from the PV must be contributing to the batteries also.
On the side of the prewired panel the AC/Gen input is switched to Invert not Bypass. (This power is coming from the grid, no gen.)

Much of the information I would like to report would come from the Magnum remote, but is showing values of 0.00 for some readings.
These are the readings from the remote.

The Magnum remote has lights on the left side:

Power led is lit.
Fault led is not lit.

CHG led flashing.
INV led lit.

Is it safe to say the Remote has authority over the Classic?

Here is what the Shore button is reading from the remote:
Shore Max= 30A<-

Here is what Meter button is reading from the remote:

FULL CHARGE
01  INV/CHG METER:
DC 54.9 V  0 A

02  BM: SOC

03  BM: METERS
DC VOLTS 0.00

04 BM: STATUS
BM : NO COMM

05 BM: SET UP
BM CHARGE OFF
CHG EFF= AUTO<-

06 BM: TECH
BM REV 0
MIN DC 0.00
MAX DC 0.00

Here is what the Setup button is reading from the remote:

01 search watts: OFF<-
02 LBCO: 42 V
03 Absorb hrs: 1.5<-
04 Bat Type: Flooded<-
05 Charge Rate: Max Chg = 100%
06 VAC Dropout: 80 VAC
07 Power Save 15 min<-
08 is just screen setup
09 Final Charge: Multi<- (with options of multi, float or silent)
10 Power Up: = no<-

Here is what the Tech button is reading from the remote:

01 Temperatures:
BTS: 19C/66F
02 Revisions:
Inverter 5.1
Remote 2.8
AGS 0.0
BMK 0.0
Router 0.0
03 Inv Model: MS4448PAE
04  Load Defaults
05 Ext Control
VAC Dropout: INT
Charge rate: INT
Shore Max: INT
06 Set Pin: 0000

Here is what the AGS button is reading from the remote:
01 AGS Control:
AGS= OFF <-
02 AGS Status:
AGS No Comm

03 Run Time hour
Run Time = 2.0 hr

04 Start Temp:
Start Temp = OFF<-

05 Start volts:
Start VDC= 44.O<-

06 SET TIME
HOUR = 1:45

07 QUIET TIME
quiet= off<-

08 AGS Tech:
Gen Run: 0.0hr


Thanks,

Sparky-

[ClassicCrazy]

I am starting to wonder if the dropouts are from some setting in the inverter where it switches over from charging the batteries via AC input to PV input and maybe there is a delay in the switch over that drops the inverter out ? 

but that isn't to say the batteries don't also need the extra charging too
Larry

[Matrix]

Is the OP saying that he is running both chargers at once:  PV and Inverter charger?   What Larry is suggesting makes sense.   I only use the Inverter charger when there has been no sun OR when I need to do a long sustained EQ. 

I usually leave my Inverter charger off all the time otherwise.

[TrustinHim]

The battery bank is still undergoing EQ to achieve full charge. This alone may help the intermittent surging that was being experienced because the batteries never received a full EQ before.

Also, the next time the the sub panel is powered up using just the batteries and inverter I should remove the refer from the circuit to see if this contributed to the power surging. It is not a very efficient fridge to say the least. It is an LG that failed to meet it's advertised energy star rating and was not repaired because the date of purchase did not fall into their requirement. Thanks LG. 
I can guess that the fridge is therefore not energy star compliant and may have been contributing to the power surging all along.

This is why I am hopeful that once the batteries have received their maximum charge, and the Energy Hog compliant fridge is removed, we might have eliminated the problem. More OP training never hurts either.

Thanks for helping.

Sparky-

[Westbranch]

Here is an idea for monitoring the surges.
shut off 'Grid power' and then all but the old LG unit and use ''Grahams Classic monitoring APP'', using the ''Live graph'' page/screen..
look at thee graph for the spikes, if they are as big as suspected they will be caught.
check screen 1, for Watts incoming and V and Amps  getting to the battery and confirm Amps to battery with DC Clamp meter.
some of the other screen pages may assist too.
I may not have the correct names for the screens you will use but there  are not that many.
Oh yes, there is a "Consumption " screen to and  I was able to see the 'turn on ' spike from our fridge.
On a lot of the pages you can view either Watts or Amps  by 'swipe-ing' across the 'dial' lightly.

hth

[TrustinHim]

hth-

I have Graham's Classic Monitoring app installed now.
We will see what it will capture when the hog certified fridge powers up.

Thanks for the help,

Sparky-