Wiring a diversion load from classic 250

Started by itri, May 02, 2018, 08:36:33 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

itri

Hi,  I've searched the threads and think I know what I need to do, but I'm not sure how to do the wiring.  Background - I'm switching from an old Bergey XL1 charge controller to a Classic 250.  The old controller had a build in dump load function with PWM - when battery voltage got over 28.5, it would start bleeding power to a DC water heater.  It looks like the classic doesn't have this direct wiring option, at least not for the power levels that I might be needing. I can use one of the Classic AUX control functions and run a dump load, but AUX would just control a relay.  So far, so good. What I can't figure out, and need to know if it would work, is how to wire the heater off of the output side of the Classic, and not the batteries. The diagram on midnite's page "classic diversion control, 2 relays" only shows the positive cables, and wiring straight to the batteries which seems strange to me. Thanks for any advice.

ClassicCrazy

I think you will find the information you want under this topic - Matrix documented his whole project in detail

http://midniteftp.com/forum/index.php?topic=3881.0

Larry
system 1
Classic 150 , 5s3p  Kyocera 135watt , 12s Soneil 2v 540amp lead crystal for 24v pack , Outback 3524 inverter
system 2
 5s 135w Kyocero , 3s3p 270w Kyocera  to Classic 150 ,   8s Kyocera 225w to Hawkes Bay Jakiper 48v 15kwh LiFePO4 , Outback VFX 3648 inverter
system 3
KID / Brat portable

FNG

I would use the Classics Aux2, Feed a DC Solid state relay that feeds the water heater. I would set Aux2 for waste not high with about a -0.5 volt offset. You want to come off the battery positive and negative bus with a proper breaker in the positive and then feed the solid state relay and on to the heater.

Matrix

PWM is over my pay grade of understanding for this, but I think (as said above) that it will come off of AUX 2.  Following your project with interest

;)
Grid-Assist Off-Grid
REC TwinPeak 2 285W 3S-3P 2565w-STC 1926w-NMOT Array / Classic 150 / Conext SW 4024 Inverter
Trojan L16H-AC 435Ah bank 4S  with 7' of 4/0 cable
24 volt system /  Need 3200Whs Daily
My System Install

Matrix

Also note,  if you read the link above from Larry,  the reason I ultimately went with AC for the Water Heater diversion thru the inverter rather than battery is for Ultimate Control of power source for hot water.   The way I have it wired,  I can turn of AC grid power from within my house at anytime and heat the water from the grid if there has been no sun or if I have guests over and demand more hot water than what could be produced from renewable energy sources alone.   I would do DC,  but then I would either have to heat from batteries at those times,  or would loss the ability to do so. 
Grid-Assist Off-Grid
REC TwinPeak 2 285W 3S-3P 2565w-STC 1926w-NMOT Array / Classic 150 / Conext SW 4024 Inverter
Trojan L16H-AC 435Ah bank 4S  with 7' of 4/0 cable
24 volt system /  Need 3200Whs Daily
My System Install

itri

Thanks Matrix.  I think the difference between us is that I don't really want or need to heat water, it is truly a dump load when batteries are fully charged but the wind is howling outside.  That's what I liked about my old setup, and why I'm trying to make the new one as dead simple as possible.  Should have explained that better in my first post.

FNG

If it is solely for turbine control maybe a clipper would make sense? They work very well for that.

itri

Thanks FNG, besides the cost, they are set up for rectification in the clipper.  My turbine does that in the nacelle and I can't change it without spending even more money.

FNG


Highflyer

Brian

The one thing is the one thing