Midnite Classic 150 reads battery voltage wrong

[FNG]

One thing that comes to mind, the box lug is aluminum and is screwed to a tin plated copper buss bar from the bottom side, Drilling that box lug out would reduce the screw length and amount of threads that screw has left to hold it onto the copper buss bar. It could also potentially loosen that screw connection, the resistance issue may have been between the box lug and the copper buss bar inside the classic.

[CountryFit]

One thing that comes to mind, the box lug is aluminum and is screwed to a tin plated copper buss bar from the bottom side, Drilling that box lug out would reduce the screw length and amount of threads that screw has left to hold it onto the copper buss bar. It could also potentially loosen that screw connection, the resistance issue may have been between the box lug and the copper buss bar inside the classic.

Good point! I actually had to grind off the tip of the screw so to have enough threads to held the wire.  I did that two months ago.

[boB]

The battery voltage is read by the processor on the control board. 

Did you mean "control board" the power board or communication board?

If you can repeat this situation, can you take your volt-meter and measure a voltage drop  between the battery plus terminal and that wire ? 

I'll try to replicate the scenario and measure it when sun is up.  wiggling it by fingers now, the terminal block appears pretty firm.

The one processor is on the control board.  Top board.

The Classic terminal block is not designed to accept any 2 gauge wire.  Only 4 gauge and even then, only solid or
small number of strands at 4 AWG.  Maybe the problem  had something to do with putting 2 AWG into the Classic
TB ?

And before going to Float, the Classic will usually go to Absorb for a while.  Do you have the Ending amps set to
other than zero in the advanced menu maybe ?  That would also cause the Absorb to go to Float prematurely if
the battery voltage rises at the Classic.

boB

[CountryFit]

And before going to Float, the Classic will usually go to Absorb for a while.  Do you have the Ending amps set to
other than zero in the advanced menu maybe ? 

The ending amps was set to 15A.

[CountryFit]

Hi gents, I would like to update to you all that my controller is on the way to Midnite.  This should take care of the issue of terminal block.  And we can close this thread.

I'm really indebted to you on this.  Wish everyone the best!

[ClassicCrazy]

One thing I thought is if reaming out that hole with a drill could snag the terminal and jerk it maybe breaking solder joint ? Anyway I am sure Midnite will find the problem and you will be charging again soon.
Let us know what the problem was when you get it back.

Larry

[mike90045]

I've always liked the gripper terminals, where the set screw presses on a metal plate, which mashes into the wire.  Seems solid, the screw does not drill through the stranded cable,

[CountryFit]

Another update -
I got the unit back and installed.  It works great and the heat at terminal block appears subdued - warm not hot.  I switched to 4 gauge welding cables.
It proves again that Midnite is a great company!
Thank you all!

[WizBandit]

The Classic terminal block is not designed to accept any 2 gauge wire.  Only 4 gauge and even then, only solid or
small number of strands at 4 AWG.  Maybe the problem  had something to do with putting 2 AWG into the Classic
TB ?

Like boB said #4awg with small # of strands, if your welding cable is fine strands and more than about 19 of them, then another failure may be headed your way.  The Classic Terminal Block was not designed for the finer stranded welding cables...

It uses industray standard THHN or THWN type "Building Wire" available from Home Depot or Lowes or an Electrical Supply house and is sold by the foot.  Yes it is stiff, yes it is a pain to get into the Classic terminals, yes it is a pain to bend & route in the Classic wiring box.  Using welding cable and admitting it may void your warranty if the terminal block burns & melts.  That means a paid repair, paid shipping, can be a real pain.  Just FYI...