Kid with Wiz Bang not showing any solar

[bouldersolar]

I have a kid wired with the wizbang as showing in the wiring diagrams on the website using a single 250 watt panel. I am pretty sure everything is wired correctly. Here is my problem:

In sun I can see that the SOC goes up 10+ amps when I connect the panel, indicating solar power coming into the battery. I shut off the panel and its goes to -1amp (some dc loads).
The problem is that on the main screen is says bulkmppt but says 0 for solar amps and 0 for solar watts when at the same time my SOC goes to 10+. I use a clamp current meter to around the solar in and see amps flowing, I use it on the kid output to battery and see amps flowing.

Why does the main screen say 0 for solar amps and watts while it says "bulkmppt" ?

Also, I noticed that when fully charged my battery voltages hit 16volts, triggering my high voltage shutdown on my inverter. 

Any help would rock!

[Westbranch]

We will need more detail,... how long have you had the system running? Firmware Version,? Done a FW Factory reset?  Charge Set points on the CC, etc. Tks.

[bouldersolar]

OK:

I have only have the system running for a few days now (mainly DC draw), really only connected the panel today and noticed the issue.

Prior to posting this thread I tried a factory reset when I was running on firmware 1740 ish (cant remember exactly, its an old Kid).
Used the default setup (charge point all default) except changed the battery type to AGM since I'm using two of these in parallel:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nothing changed, same problem. So I did a firmware update to the latest version today: 1860-1.1
Same factory settings, default charge points. Set to AGM. Same problem. I'm waiting for sun tomorrow afternoon to see if anything changed or if I get the high voltage again.

Side note: I do have my AC earth ground (green wires) bonded to my DC ground. Was on and off about this...
Everything on the 120v side seems fine (GFI trips on inverter with tester) and all DC is working great. Wizbang seems to be tracking amps in/out appropriately.

Let me know if you need more info. Really banging my head here

[Vic]

Hi boulder..,

Please check that the negative lead from the PV  is connected to the PV negative terminal of the KID.   And,   that the PV negative does NOT connect to anything else.

The KID measures current in the negative PV input.   If this connection is bonded to the battery negative,   this current measurement is defeated ...

Just a drive-by thought.    FIWI,   Vic

[bouldersolar]

Yea, this should be obvious and thought I had this down. Its a good thought and decided to go back to basics...

Pulled the Kid from the wall and disconnected all negatives (just the pv and batt, not using any load negative from kid).
Touched the ohm-meter between PV- and BATTERY- and it says 0.3ohms  .
Was expecting to see something high in the mega-ohms showing them being isolated.

[Vic]

Yea, this should be obvious and thought I had this down. Its a good thought and decided to go back to basics...

Pulled the Kid from the wall and disconnected all negatives (just the pv and batt, not using any load negative from kid).
Touched the ohm-meter between PV- and BATTERY- and it says 0.3ohms  .
Was expecting to see something high in the mega-ohms showing them being isolated.

Hi bouldersolar,

Thanks for the reply,   BUT,   am having a bit of trouble decoding just what you are saying.

It would seem to me,  that  measuring twix  the KID PV Negative,  and the battery Negative  should show some   fairly low resistance.   Without a milli-ohmeter,   accurate measurements of low resistances  can be difficult,   with a standard DMM.   But,   what difference does this measurement make ??

You ARE  probably measuring the approximate resistance of the shunt that is in the PV Negative lead.

Here's   an idea:   Why not just connect the PV Negative lead from the PVs to the KID  PV Negative terminal,   with nothing else connecting to this PV Neg lead?    AND,  then connect the KID Battery Neg lead to the  end of the Shunt that does not connect to the battery  (just as IS shown in the diagrams)  Then observe the behavior of the KID  CC  --  does it work better after doing the above ??

Irrespective of what you measure,   when correctly wired,   would bet that your KID will work fine.

IMO,   FWIW.   Good luck,   Vic