Low and Hight Cut Out Set Point

[Stafy]

Correction/ Float time is 2 hours

Equalise period 1 hour

[ClassicCrazy]

The whizbang mounts on a shunt that is on the negative lead to your batteries. One one side of the shunt is all your negative connections from inverter and everything else. The other side of the shunt only has one connection to the battery. This way it can tell everything going in and out of your battery . The whizbang mounts on the shunt. Without it you can not tell how much power is going to your batteries and how much is going to your loads. You also cannot really use ending amps without the whizbang unless you had no loads. And you cannot have state of charge readings SOC without a whizbang. It is very much worth installing for accurate information about your battery and loads.

Larry

[ClassicCrazy]

Regarding your settings - 1 hour Absorb time is kind of short .  The Float does not have a timer and is in Float after the battery has reached Absorb time.  Ending amps is more accurate in getting your batteries full .
This is from Midnite knowledge base and if you search the forums there are also quite a few discussions how to determine ending amps.
http://www.midnitehelp.com/


Lets first tell you what ENDAMPS is...
ENDAMPS is the current the Lead-Acid type battery will "draw" from the charging source when it is 100% charged and can take no more charge.  It is this point if the current is not reduced the battery electrolyte and the battery will heat up.  Too much and things can get ugly very fast.

The Classic has the ability to terminate the Absorb cycle using Whizbang JR as the ENDAMPS source.  For this to work most systems will require a SHUNT and the WBjr option.  The WBjr is a current measuring option for the Classic and KID charge controllers.  It sends data on the amps in or out of the battery, it is important for things to work to have this and the shunt installed properly.

How to figure what YOUR battery needs for ENDAMPS.
First. lets look at what effects ENDAMPS.
#1 - Battery age
#2 - Battery condition
#3 - Battery type (Flooded, GEL, AGM, other)
#4 - Some battery manufacturers have this number for you, but be warned, for a NEW battery

The Best way to figure out YOUR Battery ENDAMPS is this way:
Take a day, turn off all LOADS while testing for ENDAMPS.
Set ABSORB TIME to something high, like 8 hours.
Remember what your time was, write it down.
Let the Classic (or KID) get to absorb, then come back after the time your wrote down has passed.
Lets say default 2 hours you are back.
Get a notebook, mark off lines every 10 minutes for about 2 hours, 12 lines like this:
:10
:20
:30
:40... and so on.

Go to the WBjr page, 3rd page on the STATUS BUTTON and watch the amps.
They should be a positive number between 1 and 20 amps or so, depends on your battery total Ah rating.

Write down the AMPS every 10 minutes for 2 hours.

You should see a point where the AMPS do not drop any further, your ENDAMP setting will be this number plus maybe 1/2 or 1 amp.

You should set your absorb time to be only about a hour longer that normal.  ENDAMPS will drop the Classic to FLOAT at exactly the setting you put in.  If everything is right, your battery will always go to float at 100% SOC.

You may need to do this every 6 months to a year as your batteries age.

[Stafy]

Hi all,
My post seems to have stalled so perhaps it's time to get back to the original question;

*An explanation of what the Low battery cut in set point....I currently have it set at 25v....Why is this value?
*Charge 9 acc....Why?
*Absorb time limit 1 hr...why?
*Refloat set at 25v...why?
*Equalise time 1 hr...why?

*How are these values calculated?

*Are there any video workshops that cover these subjects? ...Note: not video's on the settings, but an explanation as to how these settings came into creation and how there values were calculated.

[Vic]

Hi all,
My post seems to have stalled so perhaps it's time to get back to the original question;

*An explanation of what the Low battery cut in set point....I currently have it set at 25v....Why is this value?
*Charge 9 acc....Why?
*Absorb time limit 1 hr...why?
*Refloat set at 25v...why?
*Equalise time 1 hr...why?

*How are these values calculated?

*Are there any video workshops that cover these subjects? ...Note: not video's on the settings, but an explanation as to how these settings came into creation and how there values were calculated.

Hello Paul,

Most of the above settings appear to be for an Inverter/Charger,  perhaps one made by Outback Power.

Simplistically these particular questions might appear to be beyond the scope of this Forum.

Many of these settings need to be viewed in the context of the details of the system  --  battery type and Capacity,   the capabilities of any generator that might be used to charge batteries,   etc.

Never have found a reason to need a Re-float time ...

In case these settings deal with an Outback inverter,  here is a Link to the Outback Forum:
http://www.outbackpower.com/forum/

There are others who can probably help you with the setting details.

Will add,   if you could make a Signature,  that shows us the details of your system,   this would help any of us who try to help.

Thanks for the added detail.    FWIW,   Vic

[boB]

The times and voltages are representative of a "typical" battery, BUT, the  battery manufacturer has the last word on these protocols.

Typically, Absorb would be more than 1 hour but maybe a very small battery might be 1 hour ?

The only reason that I know for Re-Float is that constant floating of the battery at much higher than rest voltage can prematurely age the battery.
That's why Outback does that.

boB

[Vic]

   ...
The only reason that I know for Re-Float is that constant floating of the battery at much higher than rest voltage can prematurely age the battery.
That's why Outback does that.
boB

Hi boB,

Thanks for explaining Re-Float.

We choose a fairly low Float voltage (Vflt)  --  one that just barely keeps a fully-charged battery,  fully-charged.

Have experimented with a yet lower Vflt,   but felt that  this value was just too low.

FWIW,  we use 52.4 V on the main Surrette FLA banks here,   Surrette has increased their Vflt recommendation to about 54 V,  for batteries that are frequently-cycled.

Seems that batteries are much like living things  --  we all are constantly in the (hopefully slow) process of dying.   Finding what is "best" is a bit experimental.

73,  Thanks,   Vic

[Stafy]

Chur, thanks all....seemed to have the set up running, and have posted a minor problem on the board suggested.
Many Thanks.