Sanyo HIT panels used .20/watt...

[tecnodave]

I just bought 60 Sanyo HIT multilayer panels at 20 cents a watt!

Just letting you guys around San Francisco Bay in on this deal
,

ML Solar in Cambell has bought a huge amount of these, appear to be in good condition.

Unusual form factor and mounting and 4 inch cells......Sanyo's pan tented technology of a monocrystalline wafers with an anmorphous polycrystalline overlayer. 19.2% efficiency

There are going out the door quickly!

They are a commercial outfit and if this is not approiate repentant me........

20 cents a watt was just too cheap to pass up

David

[boB]

That's a pretty darn good deal !

How many watt panels ?

[Vic]

Dave !! -

Thanks for posting this.  Have been looking for some PVs in this physical size.   Hope that these HITs will have a lot of life left in them.

boB,   am certain that this is the seller,  on craigslist:

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/for/d/195w-sanyo-hit-mono-solar/6661420509.html

Hope that this is OK,   I have no financial interest in these PVs,  and do not know the seller.

73,   Thanks again Dave.    Vic

[tecnodave]

boB,

I bought the 200 watt panels for $40.00 ea. 

They are a bit different than the norm.......4" monocrystalline cells in a 8X12 matrix.....about 38" wide and 50"" long.. Do not mount like normal (??) panels with the aluminum box frame.. Best I can describe is a formed aluminum pan with 2" frame depth on the sides and u channel to the outside of the frame

Vic,

That is the ad.   They email me directly as I have done business there quite a few times.  They are a reseller of manufacturer overruns, close outs, surplus items, and buy out solar businesses gone out of business.   Word of caution...they do sell some non UL  non listed product.....Jeff is honest in what he has. He does stock Canadian Sun and a few others new but the overruns are the deal


They are about 50 volts at MPP and I'm not sure if I want to put them in series for a 24 volt system?
2 in series is just over 100 volts and would be a transform ratio of 4-1.... A bit high and will make the Classics run too hot...?any advice on that?

David

[boB]

Excellent !

100V in and 24V out.  No problem !  Unless you are maybe connecting up 10 kW worth of panels.  THEN the Classic
might run somewhat hot.  I'm into over-powering for low sun days up to a point...  Not sure exactly what point though

Actually, it would current limit and possibly turn itself down when it did get hot.

Vic, no problem on the listing.  Good to know !

[Vic]

boB,

I bought the 200 watt panels for $40.00 ea. 

They are a bit different than the norm.......4" monocrystalline cells in a 8X12 matrix.....about 38" wide and 50"" long.. Do not mount like normal (??) panels with the aluminum box frame.. Best I can describe is a formed aluminum pan with 2" frame depth on the sides and u channel to the outside of the frame

Vic,

That is the ad.   They email me directly as I have done business there quite a few times.  They are a reseller of manufacturer overruns, close outs, surplus items, and buy out solar businesses gone out of business.   Word of caution...they do sell some non UL  non listed product.....Jeff is honest in what he has. He does stock Canadian Sun and a few others new but the overruns are the deal


They are about 50 volts at MPP and I'm not sure if I want to put them in series for a 24 volt system?
2 in series is just over 100 volts and would be a transform ratio of 4-1.... A bit high and will make the Classics run too hot...?any advice on that?
David

Hi David,

Thanks for the added info on the seller,   will try to copy  the contact info,   for further use.

If we did buy some of the 195 HITs,  it would be for an existing system that we installed in 2005  --  strings of three Shell SQ 175s,  string Vmp of 106 V,  Voc of about 133.5 V  --  on a 48V FLA system.   This is at the upper edge of voltages,   and,  this was using OB MX-60 CCs.   The HITs would have a string Vmp of about 110.6V.

We have switched this 2005 system from the MX,  to Classic 150s.   The highest Voc recorded by the MX was 141V,   do not know how to access the highest Voc  from Classics,   probably needs a Modbus reader.   With 72-cell PVs, FLAs and MPPT CCs,    just did not want to try to run strings of two.    Two per string yields 70.8 Vmps,   seemed just too low,  at the time we were designing this system.

The power rooms here are both A/Ced,   so the Classics tolerate the high Vin,  fairly well.   The second system is identical to the first,  except that it runs 60-cell SW245s in strings of three  --  about 92V  string Vmp,   which is better.

Thanks again David for the info ...   probably will not snag any of these HITs,  although they are about the correct physical size ...

FWIW,   Vic

[jedon]

I just got 40 of these, waiting on the MC3 connectors so I can get some up and running. I only have one Classic 150 right now though so will need another one.
56KW/h forklift battery on the storage side.  Currently have around 3000 watts of panels that get me around 1000W on the classic.

[tecnodave]

I find it hard to find MC-3 connectors so I buy MC-3 extender cables from Greener World Products. I usually get the 10 foot cables and junction to THHN wire in plastic molded junction boxes and use PVC conduit to protect the wiring.    NOTE: In many jurisdictions PVC conduit is not legal for PV use even though PVC is legal for your main utility feed!   (California included)

I have a dozen in use already, I'm using all in parallel as the 55 volts or so at VMP is high enough for the Kid or Classic to operate efficiently. In series strings I feel that the solar in voltage to the controller is too high to operate efficiently. Voltage transform ratio is at 1.9 to 1 in parallel and 3.8 to 1 in series strings. This high of voltage in vs. voltage out will cause the controller to run much warmer, and a bit less efficiently.


boB has stated that PV in voltage "should be" one nominal battery voltage above battery voltage, I'm taking that to mean that on a 24 volt system minimum PV input voltage should be 48 volts, seems reasonable and works well for me.

In the past I had two array's connected to two Classic 150's  First system had 12 Sharp NE-165's wired 3 series , 4 parallel for a VMP of 105 volts.  Second system almost identical but wired 2 series ,6 parallel for a VMP of 70 volts.  Both worked very well but Classic #1 fans were allways running and was noticeably warmer, Classic #2 fans never ran.........I rewired  system #1 to 2s 6p and increased the wire size from combiner to controller........System 1 panels were more than 250 feet from controller whereas system 2 was 20 feet from combiner to controller.......probably gave up a few watts to heating the wire rather than heating the Classic.

David

[jedon]

I found MC3 connectors fine on Ebay but nobody within a couple hours of me had any. I have been hooking them up in pairs.  I have about 1/3 of the 40 panels hooked up now, getting 2800W and showing I made 14.5 kW/h yesterday. The Classic 150 cycles the fans on and off so you may be spot on regarding running at a lower voltage but I do have a 150ft or so run to the panels with 4 strands of 10g well wire.
Can't really figure out how to get the Classic to charge my 24-125-13 ( 1182ah at 48v ) forklift battery though, I think it's dropping the amps to it down too soon.

[Vic]

   ...    Can't really figure out how to get the Classic to charge my 24-125-13 ( 1182ah at 48v ) forklift battery though, I think it's dropping the amps to it down too soon.

In general  Lead Acid batteries  will only accept a certain amount of charge current,   at any given voltage.   This Charge Acceptance is controlled by the battery's need for charge (and therefore charge current),   and will vary with the Depth Of Discharge during the previous discharge,   and temperature compensated charge voltage.

Once the  Charge Controller (CC),  has reached a charge stage where it is in a  constant voltage stage (Absorb,  EQ,  and Float),  it is the battery that determines the charge current,   not the CC.

FWIW,   Vic

[tecnodave]

Jedom,

I have 2 Yuasa forklift batteries that were left abused and not charged for months. They are 36 volts about 1200 amp hours.

They were very stiff on accepting charge at first, would not accept an acceptable charge rate despite being at 1180 s.g.

I use an old 1950's technique that has recovered them completely. I use no controller......solar panels only......or any other source of power at more than twice the recommended voltage but with limited current of 3-5% of battery amp-hour capacity. Gently soaking the battery in this fashion will remove sulfates from the plates and recondition the batteries to like new state.  It took two months of this to fully recover the batteries.

The Rolls-Surrette set in my current set was purchased for $20.00 on the way to the scrapyard. In series they measured 0.05 volts for the set of 4 batteries (24 volt set).  I connected 4 Siemens 55 watt 36 cell panels in series at about 84 volts, 3.15 amps directly to the batteries, no controller, no blocking diode, only a fast acting 10 amp fuse. In 30 days they were up to 24.25 volts and I connected a Beta Kid programmed to equilation voltage in bulk mode....30.00 volts and fed a kilowatt of panels.....charge rate 30.00 amps at 30.00 volts for several days..... They recovered completely, are at full capacity, and maintain 1.280 s.g. They are in daily use and have slightly more capacity than the Interstate set that I bought new. These two sets are now in parallel and are perfectly balanced......
Big no-no....different ages, different manufacturers, one set traction, one set house lighting , but both sets are at 1.280 on full charge.....my settings...bulk..absorb 28.8 float 27.6  eq. 30.00....

Ok so I've been using FLA batteries for 55 years or so, learned a few things along the way. Did an apprenticeship at a premier battery company.....Alaska Husky Battery Co. ....now based in Moscow,Russia....Still named Alaska Husky Battery...they specialize in extreme cold batteries..normal specific gravity 1.320  they don't freeze at 70 below zero but cannot survive summer under hood temperatures.....we used them like snow tires......put them in a dark corner of the barn for the summer! save them, for next winter

Alaska Husky is where I picked up the high voltage limited current approach. We used Tungar bulb chargers that used a mercury vapor diode bulb to regulate the current. The applied voltage to the battery strings were 170-180 volts at 10-12 amps. This high voltage is able to burn through the sulfation of the plates and return them to full capacity.  These chargers were called "Tungar bulb chargers" or "String chargers".  This is a long forgotten technology, totally obsolete ..... but some of the desulfators use high voltage spikes to achieve the same result.

David

[jedon]

Thanks Vic, I guess it was working after all since I hooked up some more panels and am now getting 15 kW/h into the battery which is about what I'm using so that makes sense. Now when the current to the battery drops down I turn the well pump on to fill the tank, that pops the watts back up!

TechnoDave, good tip! Thanks for sharing your decades of knowledge. Think that trick will work with golf cart batteries? I have 24 of them I used before I got the forklift battery.
-Jedon