Author Topic: Kid - packaging  (Read 384 times)

harryn

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Kid - packaging
« on: October 09, 2018, 05:50:54 PM »
Hi, I am attempting to move our product from another brand charge controller to a kid.

Frankly , we are having trouble figuring out how to mount the kid into our product.

The problem is that we are expecting a product that is intended for mounting through a cut out to have a relatively flush face, or at least recessed to prevent end user damage.

In mounting situations where the product is mounted to a wall, there isn't any way for us to use the display, as it would be behind the (users limited access) door.

In a perfect world:
- the kid would be mounted into a cut out
- The front flange would be wide enough for imperfect cutting and multiple bolts, something like 1/4-20 size or perhaps 4-40.
- If the smaller bolts were used, would like to have at least 8 of them for strength
- The front of the flange would be perhaps 1/4 inch or so thick flat across the product
- All fins, displays and buttons would be recessed below this 1/4 inch thick flange so that nothing is sticking out to be broken off.
- Dirt / moisture resistant front face
- Easy to wire from the back
- Able to easily integrate with 1/4 - 1/2 inch wall thickness without interfering with wire routing

If you cannot do this, then an alternative would be:
- Make it so that the unit can be hard mounted to a flat plate that is an insulator
- Make the display "remote" that can be mounted similar to the surface mount described above.

I can understand that you would not want to make a casting for this version due to potentially low volume, but perhaps you can offer a machined out, low volume version?

Thanks,

Harry

harryn

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Re: Kid - packaging
« Reply #1 on: October 09, 2018, 05:59:46 PM »
BTW - I already have a 20 amp solution controller that works, which is why I am looking for a 30 or even 40 amp solution.

30 amp can work.

We primarily use 24 and 48 volt battery packs.

USA built is important to us.

When possible, we prefer to use crimped on wire lugs vs screw down terminals for reliability, but I am trying to find a way so that  you don't have to spin new pcbs.

Thanks