Author Topic: New member needing advise.  (Read 690 times)

rmak

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Re: New member needing advise.
« Reply #15 on: December 10, 2018, 10:04:54 PM »
The blower motor for the propane heater runs off on 12v but being well below freezing over night I don't want the RV batteries (2-12v Interstates) going completely dead since the furnace comes on quite a lot. I don't think the charger in the RV is really efficient either so I'm loosing quite a lot there too.

The Magnum does have a preset Flooded cell setting and a user programmable setting too. It does have a battery temperature sensor but I don't think it compensates while charging because it shows the same voltage I set it at. So I set the custom setting voltage/time on the Magnum to match the setting I was getting off the classic which does have a temperature sensor.

I'll just keep charging until I see consistent SG in all the cells then set the absorb end time/amp properly. I have a little more time now to read through the forum and educate myself better for caring for my system.

I think the Classic is a wonderful controller but you know what they say about making things idiot proof...

Ray
6-290W Jinko 2 series of 3
Classic 150 w/ Whizbang Jr
Magnum 4024PAE w/ ME ARC remote
8-Deka 8L16 370amp 2 series of 4 24V

ClassicCrazy

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Re: New member needing advise.
« Reply #16 on: December 11, 2018, 01:39:26 AM »
not sure what you mean about the charger on the RV not being efficient ?
Do you mean that you are running AC off the inverter to a dc converter to then run a DC blower motor ? 
Yeah that would not be very efficient since your inverter running a small load might loose as much power in the process as it would take to run the motor - and then if it is going into a converter that would be another 20% or more lose .
So best bet is figure out what DC voltage your blower needs and then run it directly off DC . If it is 12v and you have 24v system then you would still need a dc to dc converter to take 24 to 12. Samlex makes some good ones that aren't too expensive - I use a SDC-23 model here - depends on how many amps you need - might need the next size bigger one if 20 amps isn't enough .

So yeah get all your essential loads on DC direct so you can shut that inverter off to save power when you don't need it and you will do a lot better.

Larry
system one
Classic 150 , 5s4p  Kyocera 135watt , 12s Soneil 2v 540amp lead crystal for 24v pack , Outback 3524 inverter
system two
Classic 150 ,5s 135 watt Kyocero , 16s Calb 100AH LiFePO4 , Outback VFX 3648 inverter
system three
Midnite KID MPPT 24 DC in to  12 volt AGM batterie

rmak

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Re: New member needing advise.
« Reply #17 on: December 11, 2018, 11:03:35 PM »
Converting from DC to AC back to DC is probably very inefficient. Haven't thought about a DC/DC converter.

Thanks

Ray
6-290W Jinko 2 series of 3
Classic 150 w/ Whizbang Jr
Magnum 4024PAE w/ ME ARC remote
8-Deka 8L16 370amp 2 series of 4 24V

ClassicCrazy

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Re: New member needing advise.
« Reply #18 on: December 11, 2018, 11:18:19 PM »
This is the dc to dc converter I have been using - there is a smaller model if you don't need that many amps output . I needed it for my ham radio . 
https://www.amazon.com/Samlex-America-SDC-23-Amp-Converter/dp/B0002D6KO0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1544588119&sr=8-1&keywords=samlex+sdc-23

Larry
system one
Classic 150 , 5s4p  Kyocera 135watt , 12s Soneil 2v 540amp lead crystal for 24v pack , Outback 3524 inverter
system two
Classic 150 ,5s 135 watt Kyocero , 16s Calb 100AH LiFePO4 , Outback VFX 3648 inverter
system three
Midnite KID MPPT 24 DC in to  12 volt AGM batterie

tecnodave

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Re: New member needing advise.
« Reply #19 on: December 12, 2018, 07:58:08 PM »
Ray,

I am using a MagnaSine MS 4024 AE, an early model of the PAE 120/240 volt split phase units. It is tempeture corrected when used with the temperature sensor. You need to use the ARC-50 remote controller to set the correct temp compensation as default is 5 mv/degree .

I use a 24 volt main bank with a Samlex SDC-30 DC-DC converter to provide 12 volts for my travel trailer.

I have given up on forced air heaters as too inefficient and use Camco Wave Heaters which are catalytic and require no electricity and are silent. It doesn't snow here so I don't need much heat. I have two 2800 btu/h heaters in 34 foot fifth wheel travel trailer, one in main lounge and one in bedroom.  Maybe 25% as much propane as combustion forced air heater that was standard. (Dometic)

My referigeration is direct DC 24 volt Grape Solar GS-5 referigerator. ( no longer in production )

The AC to DC converter in most modern motorhome are digital switching mode which are quite efficient but older Motorhomes use old school transformers which are very inefficient . If it is built into the bottom of the power control panel those are magnetic transformers. Motorhomes and trailers newer than 1988-1996 use the newer switching mode units. These units are separate from the power control panel. If you have the old school magnetic transformer type it is not too hard to wire in an Iota 40-50 amp charger/power supply to gain some efficiency there.


David
« Last Edit: December 12, 2018, 08:00:11 PM by tecnodave »
#1 Classic 150 12 x Sharp NE-170, 2S6P, 24volt L-16 Rolls-Surette S-530, MS4024 & Cotek ,  C-40 dirv.cont. for hot water
#2 Classic 150 12 x Sharp NE-170, 2S6P, 24 volt L-16 Interstate,Brutus Inv.
#3 Kid/WBjr 4/6 Sanyo 200 watt multilayer 4/6 P
#4 Kid/WBjr 4/6 Sanyo 200 watt multilayer 2S 2/3 P

rmak

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Re: New member needing advise.
« Reply #20 on: December 16, 2018, 10:58:10 AM »
I have a ME ARC remote and the battery temperature sensor for the Magnum but can't seem to find any temperature compensation setting in it or the mention of it in the manual.

Lows are in the single digit to teens so I don't think the ceramic heaters are going to replace the 25k btu heater that I'm using now. I really should put a skirt on the trailer to help retain the heat but I'm having to move the trailer every couple weeks while the build goes on.

Wondering about the absorb end time/amp. I believe I understand this correctly that the end amp can be determined by noting every 10 minutes the WBjr amp reading and seeing when the amps stabilize. That would be the end amp. Deka has "<.1 amp/hr" as the end amp. I suppose it means when the amps change less then .1a in an hour that is the end amp. Now if I set the end amp, what do I do with the absorb time? Does the Classic go to float when it reaches either the time or the end amp?

Ray

Edit: Never mind found it in the manual. :-[

« Last Edit: December 16, 2018, 12:07:31 PM by rmak »
6-290W Jinko 2 series of 3
Classic 150 w/ Whizbang Jr
Magnum 4024PAE w/ ME ARC remote
8-Deka 8L16 370amp 2 series of 4 24V