AGS and generators that work with it.

Started by jbeecher, December 06, 2017, 05:40:25 PM

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CDN-VT

Canadian Solar 350W 37.6 VOC  30.6 VMP 8.22 ISC 7.87 IMP ,-15 c +30c max  4 strings in 2 in Series for 24v Classic 150 -1020 Ah  Freezers & fridges ~~~ Second Array same panels of 3sx3 parallel for 24 V Classic 150 -440 Ah Outback Barns & out blds.
48Vdc almost done,11Strings up of 3s11P same panels


Rwbain

Hopefully the image went through. The genset drawing is on the left and the Datakom controller to the right. Obviously the 3 relays are Bosch cube style at the lower portion of the image. The generator key switch is called "ENGINE SWITCH" in the drawing (I copied and pasted a section of the manual's schematic ). I don't use the FUEL  SOLENOID valve on mine. It's nothing more than an ANTI DIESEL or ANTI BACKFIRE valve that closes only during shutdown. Mine hardly farts when it shuts down without it being activated so no big deal. the generator I installed this on is a Smarter Tools ST-GP7500DEB. It's a cheap , Chinese dual fuel 7500 watt electric start generator. I actually wired mine a little different.  I used a time delay relay and an audible alarm that flashes for 3 seconds prior to cranking. I also use the Emergency Stop circuit with 3 latching push button switches (mushroom style) . You don't have to spend a bunch of money on a generator or generator controller to use the AGS function of your KID. The Datakom controller pictured is now a little over $60.00 US. Hopefully someone can use this. I can answer any questions if anyone needs. It's obviously very simple. I connected my wiring before I knew I had a schematic in the manual by ringing out the wires- point being, it will work on darn near ANY  cheapo gen and even the overpriced ones (generac or genercrap  as mechanics in the EPG field call them).

Rwbain

Also a mag pickup isn't needed. It stops cranking when it senses very little AC current from the line voltage of the generator itself. My starter drops out immediately after it fires.

tecnodave

Ray,

Thanks for sharing generator starter info. I went to Datacom but can't quite figure out which model you are using. The best one is not for sales in USA or Canada?



Someone asked if the battery charge current can be set on the MagnaSine ,and someone else suggested that this can be done through the AC input current limit.  Yes it can be done that way but this will limit the total output ( pass through) power as well as the battery charge current. A much better way is to set maximum battery charge current through the ME-ARC controller. It does not accept an amps value but rather a percent of full capacity. I need to do this as my MagnaSine can output 105 amps when run with a split phase input but only 52.5 amps when energised with 120 volts.

I use dual generators , primary is Onan Emerald 4,  120 volt 4.0 kW  gasoline burner
  Big boy is a Onan MH-3  6.6 kW 120/240 volt   Burning wood gas (methane)

I need to reset max current down to 50 % when using 120/240 input as 105 amps is a bit much for L-16 format batteries, unless I have both banks connected.

David
#1 Classic 150 12 x Sharp NE-170, 2S6P, 24volt L-16 Rolls-Surette S-530, MS4024 & Cotek ,  C-40 dirv.cont. for hot water
#2 Classic 150 12 x Sharp NE-170, 2S6P, 24 volt L-16 Interstate,Brutus Inv.
#3 Kid/WBjr 4/6 Sanyo 200 watt multilayer 4/6 P
#4 Kid/WBjr 4/6 Sanyo 200 watt multilayer 2S 2/3 P

Rwbain

I'm using a Datakom DKG-116 . They make several versions including Automatic Transfer Switches, Synch. Switches, etc. AMAZON.COM - The DKG 116 is under $75.00 now. It is a 12 volt unit, but they have many others too. AMAZON is also where I purchased my Cummins shutdown solenoid that I use for a choke accuator.
-Rw

Rwbain

Trying to post pics of how i made a Transfer switch from a DPDT contactor with 120v switching coil and a SPDT with 12v switching coil. The "ATS" is controlled by manual switches in the cabin(toggle and timer) and by the Aux contacts of the KID . Works great for years now. Im only switching one leg of the gen (120v) and the neutral. I didnt include the A/C grounds for ease of viewing. The DPDT contactor (relay) was about 4 bucks (i bought a bunch for spares) and the SPDT is a high amp bosch style that was about the same price maybe less. The second Contactor in the picture i installed in the grey box , is to open the PV circuit to the charge controller when the generator is charging. I thought maybe there would be an issue if the battery charger and the kid were charging at the same time.My battery charger is an Iota 55 amp if i remember correctly . It could be 45 Amp but ive seen it go over 60 with my Ammeter/shunt set up. hopefully it posts ok. This Transfer switch is used in conjunction with my Datakom generator controller. Havent had any issues in several years with its operation.

Rwbain

Pics of ATS & contrlr

Rwbain


CDN-VT

Canadian Solar 350W 37.6 VOC  30.6 VMP 8.22 ISC 7.87 IMP ,-15 c +30c max  4 strings in 2 in Series for 24v Classic 150 -1020 Ah  Freezers & fridges ~~~ Second Array same panels of 3sx3 parallel for 24 V Classic 150 -440 Ah Outback Barns & out blds.
48Vdc almost done,11Strings up of 3s11P same panels

grgdgreek

Home:6*135w mitsu.10*175w shuko. 2* cl150.3*D400 turbines.
Rolls18*4v series 5000 545ah*3 .2*Victron 3000 multiplus inv/chg. 24v. Shop:28*185w shuko. Sunny island. Sunnyboy.Rolls 40*s530.48volt.Sunny web box.

Rwbain

Oh...i was just looking through the Midnite Kid's manual and it shows the AUX terminals as being pos(+) and neg(-).. I thought these contacts were "dry contacts" and isolated. My original schematics i drew in pencil and honestly i kinda did them sloppy. It would have made a lot more sense if the contacts were dry, and i could have swore they were! But only slight chsnges would be made from my diagram from the kid portion to make the connections (Obviosly).