Amperage ramps up then drops to zero

Started by silverstr8p, August 24, 2019, 04:25:50 PM

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FNG

The only thing I can suggest is if it still does this try another factory restore and do not import the registers just set it up with the local app, I am slightly worried about the registers being corrupt

Keep us posted

silverstr8p

I hooked it back up, and now all the front panel LED's blink every second or two like:

https://youtu.be/lbadxt7qbAw

I thought I read somewhere that symptom might suggest I used the wrong code. I went back to the firmware download section, and it seems the 2193 version is the only download I see for several models, one of them is the Classic Lite 250, is it possible I have the wrong code still?

It seems to be charging, I only saw it drop to zero Amps a couple times in around 5 minutes, though it's only charging at around 10-20 amps in early morning light.

I'll re-attempt the whole process later and see if it helps.

silverstr8p

#32
I started the whole process over and it does the exact same thing, although now the 3 LED's don't blink, just the single amber one, which I *think* it what it's supposed to be doing? I didn't re-import the registers, just set them to what seem to be sane settings. The desktop app doesn't show any warnings, and still using firmware 2193.

Is there anything else I can do? I hooked the Morningstar back up and it works fine still. At this point I'm thinking about selling this this, fishing boat anchor? Not sure, but I really need my fridge to run all the time to stop ruining food and not to kill my batteries totally.

boB

This not knowing what is going on is why we discontinued this version of the Classics.  A real MNGP can still be added but that would cost extra unfortunately unless someone here has an idea. 

So sorry you are having to go through all this.  I know it's a pain. :(

But if it is charging at all, then I don't think that the wrong code was installed.   The same version, eg. 2193 is used for all 3 Classic voltages.

Kyle and others will know more about the blinking LED pattern and its meanings.

K7IQ 🌛  He/She/Me

silverstr8p

Thanks for the explanation. Good to know that the code is the right version.

It is charging, it just still does what the original video shows, so the daily lower charge is not charging my batteries during the day like the Morningstar is, even though it's a PWM unit.

I'm open to ideas, should I send it in for repair or?

The problem is the days are getting shorter and cloudier, so I really need something with higher capacity than the 45A Morningstar during peak charge times to top off the batteries to avoid killing them slowly.

boB


Yes, it can be repaired...   Just trying to see first if there might be a good reason to do what it's doing.

No separate charger in the system, right ?
K7IQ 🌛  He/She/Me

silverstr8p

#36
There are no other chargers (except currently where I have the Tri-Star as charge controller so I can have lights in the cabin, even if the fridge doesn't work half the time). I have updated the diagram (attached) to show the current configuration, in case that helps?

Someone thought it may have something to do with two of the batteries being older and MPPT trying hard to find it's way to determine an optimal charge rate?

The shop I bought the unit from suggested tearing the top strip off the top of the batteries, exposing the glass mat and adding some water, is that a sane thing to look at? OTOH, why would the morningstar work just fine if that was the case? I have a bunch of these batteries at other solar sites with Morningstars on them that have been bulletproof for years, so I'm not sure the batteries are suspect?

FNG

The Blinking LED's

Sorry about that, We had an issue where old MNLP displays like yours didnt work with new code, If you email me I will fix you right up

Ryan@midnitesolar.com

ClassicCrazy

#38
How old are those AGM batteries ?  Are all the batteries the same age ? There is a date code on them somewhere .
I think you should load test them - individually would be best and watch the voltage on them when the load is on.
I have seen smaller AGM that had good voltage but that would take a dive soon as a load was on them.

No I think it would be a mess and waste of time to try and rip the top off agm and put water in it. If they vented from getting over charged in their life they are no good. If they are older than 5 years old and haven't lived a happy life they are probably no good. AGM can fail before that too. Do a load test and watch the voltage - the will be the only way to know for sure.

Larry
system 1
Classic 150 , 5s3p  Kyocera 135watt , 12s Soneil 2v 540amp lead crystal for 24v pack , Outback 3524 inverter
system 2
 5s 135w Kyocero , 3s3p 270w Kyocera  to Classic 150 ,   8s Kyocera 225w to Hawkes Bay Jakiper 48v 15kwh LiFePO4 , Outback VFX 3648 inverter
system 3
KID / Brat portable

silverstr8p

Two of them are a few years old and work great (the 125Ah), the other two (the 135Ah) are new. I have manually charged them in the past and they last all night just fine, so while they aren't all new, seemingly they will handle the load of my fridge (180 Watt Energy Saver model) and flat panel TV sometimes in the evening, and a couple LED lights.

As a workaround until I get this thing sorted, I added one more 265W solar panel to the side of the shed facing roughly west, since if I add it to the main array facing south it overpowers the TS-45 (hits around 50A) during peak sun, but it's nice to have a little more late afternoon charge to help out once the sun has wandered toward the horizon.

I was wondering, since the TS-45 is PWM, which I read is something like 20-30% less efficient, whether the difference of adding a new panel would be scrubbed off anyway by the TS-45's inefficiencies so the output wouldn't overdrive things, but I was wrong. The sun came out from behind a cloud and the unit started making evil sounds, so I unplugged the extra power, and it's back to working fine again still.

Thanks to Ryan, I'm planning boxing it up and sending it up for them to take a look at it. I also asked if there's a way to "upgrade it to a non-lite" if that's a possibility without altering the earth's orbit or something equally difficult.

boB

Quote from: silverstr8p on September 10, 2019, 10:15:15 AM


Thanks to Ryan, I'm planning boxing it up and sending it up for them to take a look at it. I also asked if there's a way to "upgrade it to a non-lite" if that's a possibility without altering the earth's orbit or something equally difficult.

That's funny !  :)

Glad you're sending it back to get fixed or whatever.   Hopefully we fix things up for you good.

If another controller works in its place then I think the Classic really does have a problem then.

boB

K7IQ 🌛  He/She/Me