I’d like to understand curves for wind settings

Started by Guda, January 15, 2020, 08:15:43 PM

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Guda

Hello, Ive looked for videos & read the manual, but I really dont get it all.

Okay so in one of the videos the guy talks about how to “tune” the WG (wind generator) to specific RMP & being able to stop the blades in a storm.

So my WG spins a lot more than it produces power & when its blowing like crazy its maybe spinning to fast.

My curve is
#1 oA 16V
#16 66A 140V

To calculate in between add 4 to A & 8 to V for each step. 15 is funky.

Any info would be helpful.

TY!

boB


What is your battery voltage and how many volts do you see on the input to the charge controller ?
K7IQ 🌛  He/She/Me

Guda

12v. It’s goes from 0V up 30 some V.

Is there a direct correlation between volts & amps? My curve starts at 0a 16V #2 is 4a 24v.

Can there be 4a at 16v? Or does 4a always have to be 24v?

By the time its up to 16v its spinning pretty good. Is there a way to force 16v at a lower rpm?

In pretty crazy winds it goes like mad & gets to around 40v.

I have 11 blades. More torque. Not sure if there is a electric way to tune all that.

TY

boB


When you see 20 to 30 volts in, (or 40V)  is the wind turbine loaded or unloaded ?

Unfortunately, just because the wind is blowing like crazy does not necessarily mean that the turbine is going to put out a lot of power.  But it helps.

It could be that if the wind was steady and you were seeing the turbine output voltage of, say, 25 volts and then connect it up to the battery, you might see a burst of current as the turbine empties its stored potential energy into the battery and then stalls.

That's sometimes how it works.  But that is why you need to know the proper power curve of the turbine.  That is kind of hard to guess at.  What you might try is to connect your turbine directly to the battery and see what you get in good wind.

Another way to do a similar test with the Classic is to make a partial power curve that cuts in at say, 16V which you were thinking about and the next 2 or 3 points say, 5 volts apart but say, 5 and 10 amps for those points.  Just complete the curve at some voltage above there at maybe 50 volts.

But re-reading your post, it sounds like you are actually getting some power out of it as is.  Number of blades usually doesn't make a difference.  Swept area does though.

It may not be optimum for your turbine, but it should give you some kind of idea if it can work.

As far as forcing a different voltage for a particular RPM, I don't think you can do much there.  The RPM of the turbine determines its voltage.  If you load the turbine down to a lower voltage, and the Classic does that, then the RPM should reduce.  At some low voltage and wind speed the turbine can stall so that increasing wind speed won't increase the RPM.  That's why there has to be some minimum cut-in speed and voltage from the turbine.

It's late and I haven't been thinking about this for quite a while now but basically correct.

Others can please "cut in"  and offer input.   :)

BTW, another good forum for wind turbine geeks is   https://www.fieldlines.com/




K7IQ 🌛  He/She/Me

Guda

I wrapped my mind around it this way

Wind speed determines RPM. RPM determines voltage. Once a certain voltage is achieved, you can ASK for amperage. Amperage slows the RPM

The original curve I got from tech support was still letting the turbine spin crazy fast. I got a little hint from tech support that really helped me understand. After thinking & reading a bunch it hit me. When tech support said, “if at 24v 4a stalls the turbine drop it to 1-2a.” Well the opposite was my issue. So I wrote this curve & its working really good.

The top one is the one I got from tech support