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#1
The "Classic" charge controller / Re: Replacing FETs on Classic ...
Last post by boB - Today at 02:46:39 AMYes, that FET is good but a 150V FET will have almost half the RdsOn of 17 milliOhms.
As far as removing and replacing FETs, what I do is use an iron with some good amount of power (150W ?) and a wide enough tip to straddle all 3 FET pins. Then, after possibly using a bit of solder or flux, pull the part straight out. Replace it the same way. Then you don't have to clip any leads or clear any holes.
Hopefully you can put the Amo beads (the blue things) back on the high-side FET drain leads.
Not a huge deal if you break one or two of those but try not to put them back on the low-side FETs.
The drivers are fairly easy to get. HCPL-3120 or the Fairchild (On-Semi now) equivalent. Cant remember the number right off.
The drivers do not always break. Check the gate resistors too. Alternating 5 and 10 Ohms I think
boB
As far as removing and replacing FETs, what I do is use an iron with some good amount of power (150W ?) and a wide enough tip to straddle all 3 FET pins. Then, after possibly using a bit of solder or flux, pull the part straight out. Replace it the same way. Then you don't have to clip any leads or clear any holes.
Hopefully you can put the Amo beads (the blue things) back on the high-side FET drain leads.
Not a huge deal if you break one or two of those but try not to put them back on the low-side FETs.
The drivers are fairly easy to get. HCPL-3120 or the Fairchild (On-Semi now) equivalent. Cant remember the number right off.
The drivers do not always break. Check the gate resistors too. Alternating 5 and 10 Ohms I think
boB
#2
The "Classic" charge controller / Re: Anyone mounted a Classic t...
Last post by ClassicCrazy - May 27, 2024, 10:11:16 PMSeems like you should be able to mount the Classic on there . Of course you may need to drill some new mounting holes. And if the side holes don't line up you may need to either drill new holes in your breaker box for wires to go through , or use some conduit offsets.
It will just take a bit of fiddling to get it to work and some of that will depend on if you want it to be perfect looking in addition to being electric safe.
Larry
It will just take a bit of fiddling to get it to work and some of that will depend on if you want it to be perfect looking in addition to being electric safe.
Larry
#3
The "Classic" charge controller / Re: Anyone mounted a Classic t...
Last post by LostInTheBog - May 27, 2024, 09:36:33 PMDerp, no I missed that. That's what I get for doing stuff in a hurry on my tiny phone screen, thanks Vic. So here we go, first one is exactly what my system currently looks like except I have only one inverter and I have the Mate mounted elsewhere. Second photo is from the section on mounting the MX.
#4
The "Classic" charge controller / Re: Anyone mounted a Classic t...
Last post by Vic - May 27, 2024, 06:33:58 PMThere is probably a limit of the size of the image that can be Attached, perhaps around 5 Megs.
If that is not your issue, have you found this text, just below the box where you enter the text of your post, it reads,
"Click or drag files here to attach them"?
OR, are you having different issues ??
Thankd, Vic
If that is not your issue, have you found this text, just below the box where you enter the text of your post, it reads,
"Click or drag files here to attach them"?
OR, are you having different issues ??
Thankd, Vic
#5
New Product Ideas and Discussion / Re: A CLASSIC PRODUCT ADDITION...
Last post by Barry Fields - May 27, 2024, 02:21:58 PMQuote from: boB on May 27, 2024, 01:32:11 AMThe WB Jr. is queried by the Classic or HB or Barcelona as often as it wants but maximum of 16 Hz I think.
Right now it is being sampled 10 times per second. You only do things as fast as they are required otherwise it takes extra processor resources.
I was under the impression that the WBjr ran async with no request required.
Attached is a block with what I think I know.
#6
System Design and Layout / Re: DCM9040 battery monitor
Last post by Barry Fields - May 27, 2024, 02:16:43 PMQuote from: Barry Fields on May 20, 2024, 10:39:59 AMJust installed my new DCM-120100C meter.It is still going well. Tapers to close to zero at night (moon shine)
Quote from: Hockey on May 27, 2024, 01:00:21 PMopened up my a 100A PZEM-25 looking for an undocumented UART (didn't find one ). But to your need, I found the sense wires come from the board and are soldered to the shunt. You could extend the sense wires as needed. Not sure what that will do to calibration. May need to change the shunt resistor or live with some inaccuracy.
Good info , but I have resolved my issue. If Mine blows up, I shall return here.
#7
The "Classic" charge controller / Re: Anyone mounted a Classic t...
Last post by LostInTheBog - May 27, 2024, 02:09:07 PMQuote from: ClassicCrazy on May 26, 2024, 01:22:39 PMdo you have a photo ?
I am not familiar with how the Outback was mounted .
Larry
OK I'm all set to post photos but it looks like I have to stick them online somewhere and link. Unsurprising I guess. I'll figure it out...
#8
System Design and Layout / Re: DCM9040 battery monitor
Last post by Hockey - May 27, 2024, 01:00:21 PMQuote from: Barry Fields on April 24, 2024, 08:50:42 PMThanks Larry,
I needed a meter that could stay in my living room with the shunt mounted 10 ft away in the outside battery enclosure.
I opened up my a 100A PZEM-25 looking for an undocumented UART (didn't find one ). But to your need, I found the sense wires come from the board and are soldered to the shunt. You could extend the sense wires as needed. Not sure what that will do to calibration. May need to change the shunt resistor or live with some inaccuracy.
#9
The "Classic" charge controller / Re: Anyone mounted a Classic t...
Last post by LostInTheBog - May 27, 2024, 12:51:13 PMThanks, as soon as I can find a minute I'll scan a few shots from the installation manual. I'll have to fiddle with the contrast a bit cuz they're not super clear, but would be more informative than a shot of my system. (I don't think I ever had a pdf... time to dredge up some old backup disks perhaps.)
In the meantime...
The MX mounts to two brackets that position it right up against the PS2DC such that the front and bottom edges of the two enclosures are aligned, as are the 1" knockouts in the bottom right side of the load center / bottom left side of the MX so they can be close-nippled together.
The MX attaches to the top bracket by its centered keyhole-style hanger hole in the rear plate that protrudes above the enclosure, and to the bottom bracket by 4 screws through the rear of the wiring compartment.
In the meantime...
The MX mounts to two brackets that position it right up against the PS2DC such that the front and bottom edges of the two enclosures are aligned, as are the 1" knockouts in the bottom right side of the load center / bottom left side of the MX so they can be close-nippled together.
The MX attaches to the top bracket by its centered keyhole-style hanger hole in the rear plate that protrudes above the enclosure, and to the bottom bracket by 4 screws through the rear of the wiring compartment.
#10
The "Classic" charge controller / Re: Replacing FETs on Classic ...
Last post by Hockey - May 27, 2024, 11:01:42 AMThanks for the reply Bob. I'll order some new FETs. I saw some mention of checking gate drivers in another thread. Is there anything else I should check?
Using my hobby soldering irons, I needed 4 arms to get the one FET out. One iron on top, one underneath... with my son holding the board with one hand, and tugging with needle nose pliers with the other hand. The scene looked like something out of an open heart surgery.
As an aside, when looking at the Infineon datasheets, I found FET IRFB4127 with similar specs, except breakdown was 200V vs 150V on the IRFB4115. Max current is lower as well. Makes me wonder if using the IRFB4127 would bring the unit closer to a Classic 200? Probably many other things to consider and change (including reprogramming HyperVOC threshold). So, not planning on doing it, just more curiosity.
Link to IRFB4127
Using my hobby soldering irons, I needed 4 arms to get the one FET out. One iron on top, one underneath... with my son holding the board with one hand, and tugging with needle nose pliers with the other hand. The scene looked like something out of an open heart surgery.
As an aside, when looking at the Infineon datasheets, I found FET IRFB4127 with similar specs, except breakdown was 200V vs 150V on the IRFB4115. Max current is lower as well. Makes me wonder if using the IRFB4127 would bring the unit closer to a Classic 200? Probably many other things to consider and change (including reprogramming HyperVOC threshold). So, not planning on doing it, just more curiosity.
Link to IRFB4127