Charge controler doesn't go to float using wbj it still uses timer

[Taos]

Hi
I having a problem with my classic 150 not going to float using the wbj shunt for end amps it still uses the timer . I have my end amps set to 1.9 amps and just under that reading in the advance charge menu it says shunt and I did press enter button to send info to charge controler.  I was watching the amps drop to 1.6 amps but still stayed in absorb charge stage for full duration of timer set in charge ( charge time) menu. The voltages were 57.8 volts steady  ( I have a 48volt system) I'm I missing something?
Don

[Vic]

Hi Taos,

OK,  and the current readings that you note,  are on the Classic's WBjr Status page,  and not on the Main menu (which shows the Classics total output current?

Do you notice much Jitter in the current readings on the Classic WBjr Status menu?  If the current goes to/above your WB EA setting in the 30 - 60 second period that the Classic is watching for the EA setting to be met,  the system will continue in Absorb  while looking for that WB EA value.

Are you running the latest Production MNGP and Classic Firmware?

Just some guesses ...   Vic

[zoneblue]

As Vic says because of the noise in the WBJr system amps, the firmware has to wait a full 90s where all the noise is below the EA setpoint. This (on my system) makes it trip about a half amp lower than the setpoint. Hence try adding 0.5 amp to your desired setting.

[Taos]

Thanks Vic and zone blue ,yes I believe I have the latest software 1849 for the classic and 1821 for the mngd , I did notice the current fluctuating by .3 amps but I think it stayed below my setting but  for how long (I didn't time it ) seemed like a minute or more? I guess I will have to time it next time,but why did it go to float when the timer went to zero is this a secondary way to go to float for security reasons and to avoid damaging the batteries?

Thanks again
Don ( greely ontario,Canada)

[Vic]

Hi Don,

Yes,  the time setting in the Charge menu is the maximum amount of time that the Absorb will take,  regardless on the EA value set.

Vic

[toothy]

Don,

You could always raise the EA value to a high # just for testing so you didn't have to wait so long. If it kicks down you'll know all is well and then set to the proper EA. Watching mine get there the first few times was nerve wracking.

Wade

[zoneblue]

Indeed observation is the key there. Note when yours goes to float, and note the difference and adjust for it. All part of getting to know your banks charge curve.

[phxmark]

I have my End Amps set at .9 amps.  As soon as the WBJr stays between 0 and this setting for about 2 minutes, mine jumps straight to float.  If the WBJr goes above the setting or to a negative value, even just for a second, it seems to reset the internal counter.

[Taos]

Didn't get a chance to check it today as there was overcast most of the day, I will check it in the next 3 days or so and will post results .

Thanks again all for all the imput

Don ( greely ,ontario ,Canada)

[phxmark]

Any update on your Absorb Ending Amps?

Both of the Classics I manage are working.  I had to up the amps on the 24v system to 1.1 from .9 to make it reliably go to float on WBJr End Amps.  The 48v system works fine with the .9 amps setting.

[zoneblue]

For anyone else following along 0.9A for EA is pretty low. It would have to be a AGM only. And on the smaller side. I have mine set to 2.0A, and flooded users will need much higher value. But if you take a look a graph of the WBJr decay during absorb, (from today) youll see that you cant set it too low because of the noise, and because the curve flatlines.

[boB]

The Classic should go to Float if the Classic stays in Absorb for that 60 seconds AND the WB Jr.
current stays below your EA setting for that full 60 seconds of Absorbing.  If the Classic
drops out of Absorb and back to MPPT or the WB Jr. current rises above the
EA current setting for a moment, it will have to start the 60 seconds over again.

The WB Jr. current is nice and slowly averaged now (version 1849 for sure), so it should
not be noisy, but,  loads and clouds and things can cause things to move around some.

I would try the suggestion of moving the Ending Amps up an amp or two just to see if it
does go to Float then.  If it does, then maybe the EA setting is just a bit too close to
your real finishing amps.  As the batteries age, that EA current will most likely go
up anyway  and you'll have to re-adjust it in the future. 

boB

[Resthome]

I think my Classic and WBjr has a little more noise than what I see on Zoneblue's graph. Mine are flooded 2V cells I've got the End Amps set at 5.5 amps.
My noise may because the WBJr wire was extended to approx. 20-25 ft and the wire is unshielded. Not sure if a shielded wire would help or not.

[img][file1/img]

[zoneblue]

Interesting RH. Peak to peak the  noise layer is about half an amp, yours looks to be nearer 1 or 1.5amps. A lot of that will be be determined by the load on the inverter at the time. Some things like stereos and what not cause a spiky ac waveform to be passed through to the DC side. You could test that by turning off the inverter i guess.

The other interesting thing is how your charge acceptance drops off once it goes to float. On my curve thats almost unnoticable. (2A mark). Are yours flooded? I wonder what the difference is?

[boB]

John, if you are talking about the length of wire from Classic aux 2 terminal to WB Jr. being too long, that
won't be a problem unless the WB Jr. is dropping samples (it's digital data going through the wire) and
even if it were dropping samples, that should not be appearing as "noise" spikes.

You DO have  the latest firmware that has the smooth low pass filtering, right ?

Any revision starting at build 1769   (2-13-2014)  or after should be good.

Remember that the very first revision didn't filter out the ripply currents so well.

boB