Good Day all,
A good many things have been reported about Rosie by a couple of the beta testers and I wish not to be repetitive. I finally got my Rosie in the last week of June, having bought it in late March, so I am a bit late to the party. I intend to spend some time on the other components associated with Rosie. I will start with the breaker box/panel.
I will start with a simplified list of Pros and Cons in my view and early experience:
Pros:
1. It is compact and absolutely compliments Rosie (friend of mine says it looks like it is out of the tranformers movie, I hope it doesn't take over the place)
2. It is a gorgeous shade of Black.
3. Absolute love the compact main breaker makes the industry standard 1" DC breaker looks ancient.
4. Break away side panels to aid in wiring.
5. Generous wire compartment (I didn't injury my hands or had to contort my body to install the wiring)
6. The fake plastic screw head in the side panel (It threw me at first as they fell off as I was attempting to unscrew them, excellent attention to detail)
7. Guided/slotted top half of breaker panel that does not require direct fastening to Rosie bottom panel (less screws to install in an awkward underside vertical installation orientation where the panel is fastened to substrate independently.
8. Rubber domed knock-out inserts, love these they are gorgeous, maybe a large one should have been inculded for those installers who can get all of their DC wiring through one hole.
Now for the Cons, it's not all Rosie...(I know, its old)
1. NO PV pos or neg mini bus bar to combine DC inputs (this is a bitter pill to shallow especially having loved all the e-panels that have these or have mounting holes to install yourself)
I spent a good half an hour trying to work out how to combine multiple string of PV array inputs in this breaker panel, I think this will slow down installation of the Rosie. I am also not so happy about the fix I implimented and am still trying to work out how I could install a mini isolated busbar in this thing so it could also function as a combiner, this is what I am use to and how all other e-panels work. Maybe it not suppose to function as an e-panel? I am not sure what Midnite intent is here.
2. Insufficient PV breaker slots. There are only 3 available, so this is possibly on main CC disconnect and two array disconnects. This is not enough I would want a minimum of five to be honest.
2. No DC panel mount breakers installation slots. This is also an installation short coming especially if you are maxing out a Classic CC. The 63A 1/2" wont suffice all the time. I would say you would need a minimum of two for installation of two Classic CC.
3. No mounting bracket for the Classic CC. I had to MacGuyver some brackets to get my Classic 150 up close and personal with the breaker panel and I am not fond of my solution as this will not work in every scenario.
4. Inaccessible bottom left (on the Rosie) grommet.
While installing the MNGP2 the natural exit point of the RJ45 cable would have been the bottom left of the Rosie instead of the right through the 3/4" grommet. I only saw that there was a bottom left grommet when I was removing the left hand side panel on the breakbox and set about to relocate the RJ45 cable from the bottom right. I then discovered why I didnt see it as it is fully obscured from the inside by an insulating paper paneling installed over the on of the DC busbars (maybe there could have been a left side slot on this panel so as to allow cable access to this ideally located grommet.
5. Different size and metal (alum and steel I believe) panel cover screws>
I think some of my screws have escaped and now I have a points that are not fastened (maybe MNS should include a few extra screw for the absent minded like myself)
What I discovered through the installation process is that these screws are not inter changeable on the Rosie and or the breaker panel front cover. I had to remove and re-install all of them when I realized that had them wrong as the Rosie required the shorter screw as the panel was not secured.
I think the screw should have all been the same size, length and material so this mistake is not made as they are so very close in characteristics.
I will add as necessary as I complete the installation process. I will attach some pictures as well.
Some additional questions:
1. Will the older classics every be able to communicate with the MNGP2, I was looking for somewhere to install the RJ45 canbus cable then realised the classic doesn't have a receiving point so there seems to be no integration of the classic performance in the setup.
2. Will the Rosie get an app or a website hosting facility like the classic so one could remotely interact or view the Rosie.
Regards...
Damani
Having some issues with picture sizes so i am trying to re-size them and upload later.
Here are the pics
D80C3997-4CDC-4F56-8B5C-9CAEC65FCFE8.jpeg99BE3D93-7161-44E3-8C08-CB1DF99D43E5.jpeg
I don't have a Rosie or it's design built breaker box. But I don't think the breaker box you are trying to wire up for PV inputs and Battery outputs from the Classic was designed for that. The Rosie manual shows only inputs from the battery to power the Rosie, and for AC outputs and AC input.
Am I getting something wrong ? Seems like you should have a separate box that has all the breakers and connections for the Classic ?
And a separate combiner box for more than two PV strings input to the Classic .
Larry
CC,
I bought an e-panel of an Apollo solar inverter more than 10yrs ago and it had more din rail breaker points and panel mount breaker points than the breaker box for the Rosie and it also cost a whole lot less. My view is that design should not be regressing when it comes to these add ons.
image.jpg
image.jpg
Hi dapdan,
Regarding mounting the Classic to the Rosie E-panel, you could use a 1" close nipple, or one that is a bit longer than, close, with lock-rings, and insulating bushings. This, plus one screw at the top of the Classic, into the wall, you should be good, IMO.
For your larger applications, how about Mini-DC panels?:
https://www.midnitesolar.com/products.php?menuItem=products&productCat_ID=8
Later, Vic
Vic,
That would work but you would still need an offset bracket as the hole location on both are not on the same horizontal plane. This would be necessary to support the top of the classic and resist an torquing as you work on the classic. So we are still at a custom bracket being required.
My application is not large and multiple landing points for dc in is still require especially when the classic is limited to 150v dc and typically panels will be high voltage nowadays(60cells and up). So for small applications where spacemaybe limited it is sub optimal to have to install two e-panels. The other empanels won't match the aesthetics either.
Damani
dan,
How about an Offset Nipple?:
I did mention using a screw at the top of the Classic, for added stability ...
Perhaps, MidNite will offer an empty Rosie E-panel chassis for motif-compatibility.
Adding any more breaker spaces in this Rosie e-panel, would make it larger, and more expensive, the added spaces might well not be needed by too many others.
Robin, and crew (as you know) have been supplying E-panels for decades, and would bet that they have a good finger on the pulse of what the average customer needs, IMO. I am not trying to be snarky. I, too, always want MORE, and more!
FWIW, Good Luck, Vic
Vic,
I am not sure what the offset is but I can tell you the one pictured will not be sufficient. The offset is around 2" I would say and that would mean that the controller would have to be farther away laterally so as to reduce the constriction when the nipple goose necks. The is will also make pull cable interesting as well.
I had a read through the included epanel manual and interestingly it references a batt bus bar that does not exist in the epanel shipped to me. THe instruction on pg 19 directs you to connect cc batt wire to Rosie batt busbar and there is no busbar installed in the epanel.
Further more the included diagram pictured is not accurate. There are two larger connector on either side of he Pv input connectors and they are labeled batt pos and neg. This is where I connected the controller as there are no landing point on the load end of the shunt or the main battery pos connection point, I would have much preferred what the diagram is showing as I would have been able to land multiple wires independently as opposed to releasing a connect every time.
Damani
Hi dapdan,
The photo of that offset, IS 1" Trade Size, the same as all of the cable passages in the Classic.
I was proposing that size and type of offset for the several inches of its internal length length. It is pretty easy to simply push cable through those offsets, depending on the cable size.
These CAN bus products are NEW, as you know. There are bound to be errors, in the fine detail of the docs, etc.
All, just IMO, Vic
Vic
I had to go measure this thing. Center of hole from back of classic is 1", for the Rosie it is 4" so the offset would be 3" which is a lot. I am not even sure if I could fine something like that in country. I hand some 90deg bend 5mm aluminum and used it as an inelegant bracket.
Damani
Damani,
Yea, think that that offset nipple does not have enough offset.
I wonder how MidNite handles mounting a Classic to the Rosie E-panel, for their prewired systems:
https://www.midnitesolar.com/productPhoto.php?product_ID=751&productCat_ID=62&sortOrder=1&act=p
FWIW, Vic
Quote from: dapdan on July 02, 2023, 12:17:59 PMCC,
I bought an e-panel of an Apollo solar inverter more than 10yrs ago and it had more din rail breaker points and panel mount breaker points than the breaker box for the Rosie and it also cost a whole lot less. My view is that design should not be regressing when it comes to these add ons.
Oh I didn't know it was an epanel - thought it was just something like the breaker box that I got for Hawkes Bay and just was for the inverter connections. I understand now that I see your photo of wiring diagram.
Larry
Vic,
When I was confirming the beta unit with MNS I referenced this same picture and asked for a bracket and was told that it was just a mock-up and there were currently no such item available. I said that I could wait if the factory could also mock-up one for me and never got it. I paid for it in March and it sailed out of Miami in June hence I had time to spare. So I ended up using bent Alum to install the Classic adjacent to the Rosie :(
Quote from: dapdan on July 02, 2023, 05:37:22 PMVic,
I am not sure what the offset is but I can tell you the one pictured will not be sufficient. The offset is around 2" I would say and that would mean that the controller would have to be farther away laterally so as to reduce the constriction when the nipple goose necks. The is will also make pull cable interesting as well.
I had a read through the included epanel manual and interestingly it references a batt bus bar that does not exist in the epanel shipped to me. THe instruction on pg 19 directs you to connect cc batt wire to Rosie batt busbar and there is no busbar installed in the epanel.
Further more the included diagram pictured is not accurate. There are two larger connector on either side of he Pv input connectors and they are labeled batt pos and neg. This is where I connected the controller as there are no landing point on the load end of the shunt or the main battery pos connection point, I would have much preferred what the diagram is showing as I would have been able to land multiple wires independently as opposed to releasing a connect every time.
Damani
Hi Damani,
I misread what you saying about the Offset Nipple, verses, the needed offset distance ... somehow, I felt that you were saying that the size of that pictured offset was 2 inches in size, sorry for my error.
I also feel that I was in a bit of a foul mood, regarding all of my posts, of July 2, as it has been HOT (for us), and we are short of PV power, so we can only Air Condition the power room, not the residence, and so on.
You are building a very capable, beautiful system, with the latest and greatest Rosie inverter and E-panel, and wishing that things were a bit better than they are now.
I should have said, that you are providing very useful feedback to MidNite Solar, and MN is paying attention to you early-adopters. As you know, this is how MN has evolved the E-panels, to stretch versions, ones setup for two panels, side-by-side, etc.
SO, I apologize for sniping at your feedback, sorrrry!
Take care, thank you for doing a very important job, Cranky Vic
Vic,
Its no problem at all. As I said other people had spoke to the Rosie so I thought I would take a different approach. I am a Midnitesolar fanboy for sure just happy to make any contribution.
Damani
Hi all, this is the third time I have attempted to post here. This will be a bit long winded as I attempt to explain rationale for features and changes to the Rosie E-panel.
Pros:
1. Looks like it is out of a Transformers movie. Thanks, it is actually a copy of the valve cover from my old 1999 BMW V8 engine. Transformers works also.
2. Black makes it easy to coordinate from one factory to another. I am working on a couple more inverters now that aren't exactly black though. They are made out of some high tech engineered plastics. One top cover is actually a see through smoked translucent polycarbonate. It is very cool. (RV inverter. Less weight).
3. Compact main DC breaker. I never really liked the 1.5" wide 250 amp breaker that I have been using since 1990. That was all there was, so one day I wised up and asked Carling and CBI about making a triple wide C series. Carling was able to make a 250 amp and CBI a 300 amp. WooHoo. We will also make versions with shunt trip and aux switches. Both for yet to be announced future products.
4. Break away side panels for ease of wiring. Hmmmm, these are die cast aluminum. Hard to make anything break away. Not sure exactly what the goal here is because of the next comment.
5. Generous wire compartment. Wow, in all my 30+ years of doing the mechanical design of dozens of popular inverters I have never been accused of giving a generous wiring room! Does anyone remember how bad the Trace DR and SW were? Trace DC250? OutBack FX? Many MidNite boxes? I will admit our 1000 amp battery combiner does have a bit of room though. Thanks.
6. Fake plastic screws. The side panels fit the Rosie, Hawke's Bay and Barcelona breaker box. The original side plates were extruded, but when they changed to cast there were quite a few unused holes on each model. They didn't look good, so I made fake screw heads to fill up the empty holes. Too bad I didn't have a real screw handy when I designed the fake screw heads otherwise they might better match the real screws. That kind of thing happens when I am designing things at home while watching old SciFi movies.
7. No direct connection to the inverter. I didn't think too much about the breaker boxes when designing the inverter, HB and Barcelona enclosures. It would have difficult and expensive to make them attach and I couldn't think of a good reason to make them attach? So as long as you use our back plate or just push the two parts together there is very little gap. We do have a draft angle to contend with so you may notice a smallish gap. Nothing to worry about though. Besides, we already have a ton of screws on these units. I had a certain steam punk, BMW, art deco look in mind and that dictated a lot of screws.
8. Rubber domed knock out inserts. We have 1/2" and 1" silicone snap in conduit hole covers. Too bad one is gray and the other is black. I believe they eventually all will be black. I doubt we will ever make a 2" silicon knockout cover. That would not be cheap. Most people use the 2" conduit holes anyway. Metal conduit covers are readily available at local hardware stores. Well.......maybe not so much in Barbados?Sorry Damani
Cons:
1. No mini busbars for combing PV inputs. Yah, hear you. The Hawke's Bay controller was much further along than the Barcelona or Rosie, so I designed a breaker box for the Hawke's Bay. This set the final length in concrete as we ordered tooling. Then came the Barcelona breaker box. That was a little more challenging, but it worked out ok. Then finally the Rosie and boy was I shocked at what I had done! The oxes all wanted to be the same length for cosmetic reasons so had a real chore on my hands. I did not have room for the nice mini busbars. I had to use two layers of breakers and din rail terminal blocks. I gave the installer as much room as was humanly possible. Production is still angry with me because any spare room in the box came at their expense, but it seems to work. I have UL wire bending room requirements that have to be met for field wiring and that meant something had to give. Production figured out the proper sequence for wiring the Rosie E-panel and now they are talking to me again. We do give away 8 pick offs with each Rosie E-panel. These pick offs add one extra circuit to each terminal. We had planned on one charge controller for each E-panel and it does accommode this for the most part as I will discuss later, but I did not think anyone would be using it as a PV combiner. In fact I never anticipated that our regular E-panels would be used as a combiner although we do provive six holes for wires on each PV busbar. It just so happens that six positions is the shortest made by our vendor. PV combiners are normally up on the roof or out by the PV array. I think Damani has PV arrays that are sometimes located so close to the E-panel that it is cheaper to use the E-panel busbars as a combiner? Be careful to never combine more than two strings this way though as you need breakers on each string for 3 or more strings. I think something is coming that might help you though that I will discuss on #2.
2. Insufficient PV breaker slots. The first person outside of MidNite to see a Rosie E-panel complained that he wanted to install 2 Classics. Crap, I did not accommodate this. Remember I don't actually install this stuff and I don't always get it right at first. OK, how can we accommodate two Classics? Look at the second picture. This is showing a modified cover plate. We removed some of the vertical spacers that are part of the die casting. This change has been relayed to the factory and the next shipment of covers will allow up to 12 single 1/2" wide breakers or ten 1/2" and two 1" wide breakers. Do the math. You will see we can then add another three charge controller breakers. One 1/2" wide for the input and a 1" wide 80 or 100 amp for the charge controller output. 1/2" wide MNEPV breakers are presently limited to 63 amps and 150VDC. In the future we will be getting in 50 amp 300VDC breakers. I do not know when though as these 300V breakers are about two years late. The one inch wide part can be our present two pole breakers tied together with a copper busbar or in the future they can be a single pole 1" wide breaker up to 125 amps that accepts at least a 2AWG wire. Maybe larger? I had a 2AWG wire handy and it looked kind of loose in the elevator clamp.
Now look at the third picture. There are three snap in end stops. If we use bent up tabs from the metal din rail, we can eliminate these end stops. That should free up enough room to add two more din rail terminals. So you would then have two PV+ and two PV- terminals as well as two more pick offs. We do not add wiring to the PV input terminal blocks, so they can be used for two Classics or combine them using the pick offs to use as a two string combiner. Does this help? I think we will make these changes. These die cast tabs could be removed in the field by someone with the right skills and tools. If you really need these extra breaker spaces, I am sure for a nominal fee we could machine the tabs out and get you a new cover.
Second #2. No DC panel mount breakers. Nope. No way to add those. They take up more room than the din rail breakers. I believe my answer above solves this issue though.
3. Classic mounting bracket. BobQ and Tony spent many hours designing a custom plastic Charge controller bracket. We 3D printed a few and they worked great. Then the subject of a dual Classic installation surfaced. Back to the drawing board. Well they did it. Beautiful design. It worked on both sides, accommodated all the wires and even gave you a spot to add an SPD. After getting the tooling quote this bracket design was put on the back burner until it can be justified. We are now adding holes to the side plates to mount the original E-panel Classic mounting bracket. Right and left side. They are quite sturdy with the 1" close nipple, but we broke out the 2" cast in knockout when we accidently dropped the sample unit. Now we are including a large adapter ring that stiffens everything up and solves the broken casting issue. Problem solved, but we all really like the cool plastic design better. It was a lot of work and very novel, so if we sell enough of these brackets and pre-wired systems, we will tool it up.
4. Inaccessible bottom left conduit hole on the Rosie. ETL didn't like the fact that you could stick your finger through that opening and touch the Rosie battery busbar. Gee, I can't see any problem here, do you? We added an insulator between the hole and busbar, but now have decided to remove that hole as it was just too much of a liability. We have however added three holes in the E-panel to help wire routing issues. One on each side panel and one on the internal curved surface of the E-panel chassis. This does give more flexibility when wiring things up.
5. Different sized screws on covers. Yes, we caused a lot of frustration here. The original side plates were extruded. They required a 5/8" long taptite screw that gripped the side walls of a groove extruded in the side plates. This design did not work out as well as hoped. When inserting the screws a number of times the aluminum grooves would wear out. It also caused a lot of metal filings that could fall into the electronics. Now we have cast sides with tapped holes. At first some of the side plates did not all have the same call out for thread depth. This is why we had different screw lengths. No everything is standardized and everything is 1/2" long machine screws. We add wax to the threads to capture any loose filings. We do not want metal filings getting into a 600V charge controller. I asked production to start adding two extra screws to each product also.
Additional questions:
1. Will the older Classics be able to talk to the MNGP2? Yes eventually. Years ago we did a project for SMA where we could have up to 4 Classics (modbus) talk to the Sunny island (Canbus). It worked flawlessly. We are working on a single Classic version that will work as part of our canbus network. The same engineer is creating this dongle so we are sure it will work. A second way to accomplish this is to write code for our upcoming ComBox. We planned on adding the RS232 input to the ComBox many years ago and the hardware is there. The ComBox is not finished although we are starting to ship some in limited quantities. It is an engineering level part at this point, but all the engineers use it.
2. We will definitely have a cloud based system along with phone app support for all the new products. Parts of this are quite complicated depending on how it gets implemented. The phone app seems pretty straight forward, but not the server stuff. Do any of you have expertise in this field?
That is all I have to say in regards to Dapdan's comments. We really appreciate all the comments. We need input from you all to help insure we are making the right product.
Thanks,
Robin Gudgel
Robin,
You are the man! Please shout out all of the engineers and other staff at MNS. You guys rock. You have responded in such amazing detail I am going to have to take many bites at it. I am off to read it again. I really appreciate all of your attention to detail on products, service and community support. I am going to take my time and study your responses in the presence of Rosie then I will start to respond.
The center modification with the additional DC breaker is amazing and I would prefer that as I tend not to use the charger feature of the inverter so for going the full bypass breaker assembly and the ac input breaker is what tends to occur. Yes
Yes I do use the e-panels (this is why I would buy the plus models) as combiner boxes. I have been doing this for 10+ years and given that I have been adding PV to mine and other clients installation over a period of time quite often different arrays have different specification and it is necessary to use more than one controller for the same battery system(which can be a dual battery system with a combiner switch). So yes using two classic is definitely a real possibility.
Damani
Rob,
Quote4. Break away side panels for ease of wiring. Hmmmm, these are die cast aluminum. Hard to make anything break away. Not sure exactly what the goal here is because of the next comment.
By this i really meant removal and not to actually break or break out anything. In the process of installation it was really easy to remove 6 screws to route voltage sense and RJ45 cable from the aux connections.
I have personal proof of the ample wiring space as I did not cut or scrape my hands at all. Yes I was not wearing gloves, I know laziness.
I think the fact that they are not the same size is a good thing as one could be always able to identify them and remove them by hand. When I first tried to unscrew them they fell off. Now imagine if I could retrieve them that could have made my OCD flair-up.
7. I like the fact that they don't mechanical connect or are fastened together, this was a compliment on simplification of the install so I wouldn't have to get on my knees or haunches to install a screw vertically. I like the fact they just slot together and you then fix them to your vertical substrate.
8. Your comments are understood and noted. Wouldn't want you to add unnecessary cost. I don't think the colour would be an issue, at least for me, as the way it is installed you would only see them if you get on your knees to look at the bottom of the e-panel.
Now on to your "Cons" responses:
1. When I first saw the "picks" I was wondering what the heck are these things. when I saw one installed on the neutral on the ac side I understood what it was meant for.
As stated previously I do use e-panels as combiners. They really add great value to small to medium sized systems where you don't need to install a combiner at the arrays (when the distance accommodates this approach). I do install breakers for every string/array at the e-panel, hence why I would request more 1/2" din rail slots for the 150V breakers. Longest run I had to install for an array was around 120ft and I would usually maximize the PV input voltage to deal with the voltage drop.
2. Sir in my view its 99% right and 1% is tweaking and customization.
Loving the modified cover plate, especially that 1" din rail mounted 125A breaker that will make the panel mount breaker obsolete.
Yeah the vertical spacer were taking up valuable real estate. ;D
I am thinking 2awg from the CC is adequate as the run is quite short once the classic is adjacent. larger wire gets very difficult to bend and generally coax into position. It is usually a good work-out with lots of sweating.
I can see the value of removing those lockin end tabs and replacing them with terminal blocks even if the installed doesn't use them they still give the spacing if one desires that. The extra PV input would definitely work for 2 or 3(if your combine the wires in the larger terminal block). However, the next challenge is to combining the negatives from the arrays. Assuming that all of the attached controllers have a common negative then one could have 4, 6 or 8 10awg wire to combine and send to a common negative point (This is why I loved the mini-DC e-panels, they were truely multipurpose in this regard). This is where the terminal block would not suffice. If we could have a single 6 point stand of negative DC mini busbar would solve that issue. I was looking at the bottom left side of the e-panel and thinking that I could modify it to install one similar to the earth block. The only issue here is due to the large 2" knock, that I will never use, the area is not machined flat and have ridges that would be inconvenient for the mini-busbar.
I may take you up on that offer of the modified cover as i am going to be state side late August/ early september this year.
No DC panel mounts...no problem your 1" din rail 125A breaker would do the job. In the mean time I was looking at installing one using one of the 1.5" holes in the bottom. The breaker would be mounted on 2mm aluminium plate which would in turn be mounted, facing down, on the bottom panel of the e-panel with the breaker lever poking out the bottom. In-elegant but it should work with the studs facing upwards for easy installation of wiring.
3. Like your solution. I will patiently wait.
4. I was wondering what this internal curved surface was all about. This open through channel on the outside reminds me of that storage tunnel on the Rivian RT1 electric pick-up.
5. So interesting to see the design process you guys go through. I was also concerned about strip out of the cast threading as I am removing and re-install the cover many times as I am testing/playing with it. I think I have already worn one or two of the threading already on Rosie right side (go thing it has many holes to counteract a possible loose cover, your additional holes will mitigate this).
Additional questions/ your response:
1. I remember that com-box for SMA. Glad to hear the Classic wont be talking with itself and be snubbed by Rosie, he doesn't deserve that ;D .
2. Looking forward to that app and web monitoring. I must say that one thing midnite could do better, not that it is a deal breaker, is more interactive apps for their power electronics. I received the dongle for the DIYMN3024 in this shipment and installed it yesterday and this thing along with the app on andriod is absolutely awesome. I can monitor everything anywhere in the world on any wifi connection and this is a low to medium spec inverter. One may have expected Rosie to be able to do at least that out of the box with built-in Wifi. This is like to have, but I appreciate the fact that all of the MNS rock-stars are making sure Rosie and all other Solar power electronics do their core function excellently first.
Finally, you are making an excellent product.
Damani
Damani. Let me know where to send a modified Rosie E-panel cover when you are here. Some of us will be at a show in Miami in late August. So if you are in the area, check it out. Energy Expo August 22-23.
Robin,
I will more than likely be between Ottawa, Canada and NYC end of August. The place I would want to visit is MNS manufacturing. Hey, what ever happened to Midnite the Cat. I havent heard about her. My Cat is also black but goes by Kit/Massey.
I am wondering how many tourist you get at Midnite
Damani
Quote from: dapdan on July 06, 2023, 11:18:29 AMRobin,
I will more than likely be between Ottawa, Canada and NYC end of August. The place I would want to visit is MNS manufacturing. Hey, what ever happened to Midnite the Cat. I havent heard about her. My Cat is also black but goes by Kit/Massey.
I am wondering how many tourist you get at Midnite
Damani
You are welcome here any time !
Midnite kitty is alive and doing great. Saw her just a couple of weeks ago. She is now living with Doug, one of our old mechanical engineers. She is doing much better living with a family all the time now.
I re-homed my little black kitty there as well. They are getting along !
boB
Thanks boB,
Glad to hear that Midnite is doing well. We have to look out for these black cats. Thanks for the welcome.
The curved surface at the top of the Rosie E-panel is to allow air in from both sides. There are four small fans at the bottom of the Rosie heatsink.
Robin,
Good to know. I will make sure not to store anything in that tunnel ;D .
Damani