150 Controller stuck at 16 volts

Started by andyrud, January 17, 2017, 01:54:47 AM

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andyrud

Hi everyone and sorry for the long post,
I am a new poster and need some help with my Midnight Solar 150 controller.  I have the highest Voltage set to 15.3 volts to charge my 12 volt battery system BUT the controller allows the voltage to go to 16 volts.  I reset all voltages, bulk, absorb, equalize, to 15.3 volts but it still allows the voltage to go to 16 volts.  The battery system is composed of six 6 volt golf cart batteries one year old in series/parallel to make 12 volts and my panel array is at 24 volts.  I purchased this controller approx.. 10 years ago, I think it was one of the first ones out.  It has never been firmware updated.  It has served me well until now.  I think maybe it cooked my batteries.  Any ideas as to what I should do?  Has anybody had or seen this before?
Thanks in advance,

Andy Rudovsky

niel

it hasn't quite been 10 years i don't think, but maybe you have the bts set for too far in mv compensation on cold batteries or maybe it's right as i've seen mine go high on a few cold nights. if in doubt it's the bts and it's connected then disconnect it and see what it goes up to then.

andyrud

#2
Quote from: niel on January 17, 2017, 02:51:21 AM
it hasn't quite been 10 years i don't think, but maybe you have the bts set for too far in mv compensation on cold batteries or maybe it's right as i've seen mine go high on a few cold nights. if in doubt it's the bts and it's connected then disconnect it and see what it goes up to then.
Ok, great idea, I never thought of it.  The temperature in the battery room was about 45 degrees f, but at night it went down to about 38f.  Thanks for the reply.

Andy

TomW

Have you calibrated the controller input voltage?

Maybe check what a volt meter thinks the battery is at and at the controller?

Just what my first steps would be. It can be adjusted in the "tweaks" menu

Tom

Do NOT mistake me for any kind of "expert".

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)


24 Trina 310 watt modules, SMA SunnyBoy 7.7 KW Grid Tie inverter.

I thought that they were angels, but much to my surprise, We climbed aboard their starship and headed for the skies

andyrud

Quote from: TomW on January 17, 2017, 10:24:45 AM
Have you calibrated the controller input voltage?

Maybe check what a volt meter thinks the battery is at and at the controller?

Just what my first steps would be. It can be adjusted in the "tweaks" menu

Tom
Thanks Tom, I did that and they were in sinc.

Andy

ClassicCrazy

#5
I agree with Neil, check what the battery compensated voltage is - there is a place to see that on the MNGP and also if you look at Local Status app under Config/Tech/ battery comp it will show it.  The colder the batteries get , the higher the charging voltage will be. Depends on what mv setting you have in the temp comp setting too. I think default is -5 mv but you want to set it to your battery manufacturer specs.  Without temperature compensation cold batteries will never charge up all the way and will be ruined - I learned the hard way on my first small system !

You meant that you only have the equalize set to 15.3 v ?  That would be way too high for absorb and float voltages to be.

Larry
system 1
Classic 150 , 5s3p  Kyocera 135watt , 12s Soneil 2v 540amp lead crystal for 24v pack , Outback 3524 inverter
system 2
 5s 135w Kyocero , 3s3p 270w Kyocera  to Classic 150 ,   8s Kyocera 225w to Hawkes Bay Jakiper 48v 15kwh LiFePO4 , Outback VFX 3648 inverter
system 3
KID / Brat portable

andyrud

Quote from: ClassicCrazy on January 17, 2017, 11:55:47 AM
I agree with Neil, check what the battery compensated voltage is - there is a place to see that on the MNGP and also if you look at Local Status app under Config/Tech/ battery comp it will show it.  The colder the batteries get , the higher the charging voltage will be. Depends on what mv setting you have in the temp comp setting too. I think default is -5 mv but you want to set it to your battery manufacturer specs.  Without temperature compensation cold batteries will never charge up all the way and will be ruined - I learned the hard way on my first small system !

You meant that you only have the equalize set to 15.3 v ?  That would be way too high for absorb and float voltages to be.

Larry
Thanks Larry, I reset all the various voltages to 15.3 volts to test if the controller still went to 16 volts.  After it did I returned the voltages to their normal settings. 

Andy

Westbranch

Andy, can you do an update?  Since it seems to be 'stuck' I would do an update and see if that cures your problem...
there was a new version posted last night.

good luck.  ;)
KID FW1811 560W >C&D 24V 900Ah AGM
CL150 29032 FW V.2126-NW2097-GP2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3Px4s 140W > 24V 900Ah AGM,
2 Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr, NetGr DS104Hub
Cotek ST1500 Inv  want a 24V  ROSIE Inverter
OmniCharge3024  Eu1/2/3000iGens
West Chilcotin 1680+W to come

andyrud

#8
Quote from: Westbranch on January 17, 2017, 02:25:53 PM
Andy, can you do an update?  Since it seems to be 'stuck' I would do an update and see if that cures your problem...
there was a new version posted last night.

good luck.  ;)
Thanks, I probably should do that.  I have never updated the the controller since I bought it.  I guess I will have to read up on how to do it.  Is  it hard or tricky to do?  It is in the mountains and no wifi available, so, I will need to download update to my laptop and install it that way.  I guess there is a way to do this? 

Thanks,
Andy

Westbranch

What type of computer do you have?  I use a laptop with W7, the latest 2 or 3 versions can be done on W10.  there are a few wrinklles depending on the version.
There are instructions to follow and you have to do it exactly to them or ... :o  :-X

let us know which you have so we can comment further.
KID FW1811 560W >C&D 24V 900Ah AGM
CL150 29032 FW V.2126-NW2097-GP2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3Px4s 140W > 24V 900Ah AGM,
2 Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr, NetGr DS104Hub
Cotek ST1500 Inv  want a 24V  ROSIE Inverter
OmniCharge3024  Eu1/2/3000iGens
West Chilcotin 1680+W to come

Vic

Hi Andy,

IMO,  it would be very good to have Internet access available at the place that you are doing an Update of the Classic Firmware.   Having access to this Forum can be a valuable  asset if you need help.

The first Classic in use here,   was from the first Production run (and available for purchase by the general public)  was ordered just before Christmas 2011,   and was shipped,  Jan 2012,   FWIW.

The later versions of Firmware have many added useful functions,  so an Update should be a benefit to you.

IMO,   Vic
Off Grid - Sys 1: 2ea SW+ 5548, Surrette 4KS25 1280 AH, 5.25 KW PV, Classic 150,WB, Beta Barcelona, Beta KID
Sys 2: SW+ 5548s, 4KS25s, 5.88 KW PV, 2 ea. Classic 150, WB, HB CC-needs remote Monitoring/Control, site=remote.
 MN Bkrs/Bxs/Combiners. Thanks MN for Great Products/Svc/Support&This Forum!!

ClassicCrazy

Depends on your computer skill level as to how hard the firmware update is.
The new update software seems to work a lot better than the older version.
But you should make a printed copy of how to do a hard reset of the Classic  using the jumpers - just in case you hit a snag.
You also want to know how to do the software reset known as the VMM which you will need to do after you do the firmware update. To do that you hold the left and right arrows in on the MNGP while turning the power on . It will erase all your old settings so you need to write down whatever you have in there first if you can't remember so you can  enter them in again.

As others have said there will be a lot of new features in the updates if you have never done one before !

Larry
system 1
Classic 150 , 5s3p  Kyocera 135watt , 12s Soneil 2v 540amp lead crystal for 24v pack , Outback 3524 inverter
system 2
 5s 135w Kyocero , 3s3p 270w Kyocera  to Classic 150 ,   8s Kyocera 225w to Hawkes Bay Jakiper 48v 15kwh LiFePO4 , Outback VFX 3648 inverter
system 3
KID / Brat portable

Westbranch

As others have said there will be a lot of new features in the updates if you have never done one before !.

Right! on that note do you have a WhizBangjr (WBjr)?  if not, it is a very valuable addition to the Classic as it lets you have a much better view of how your solar project is performing...and to be more exact it tells you how much of your PV production (amps ) actually goes into the batteries, not just what the Classic sends towards the battery.  Most recommended...

So before you head out into the sticks, can you get one for installation?...

hth
KID FW1811 560W >C&D 24V 900Ah AGM
CL150 29032 FW V.2126-NW2097-GP2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3Px4s 140W > 24V 900Ah AGM,
2 Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr, NetGr DS104Hub
Cotek ST1500 Inv  want a 24V  ROSIE Inverter
OmniCharge3024  Eu1/2/3000iGens
West Chilcotin 1680+W to come

andyrud

Quote from: Westbranch on January 17, 2017, 09:17:24 PM
What type of computer do you have?  I use a laptop with W7, the latest 2 or 3 versions can be done on W10.  there are a few wrinklles depending on the version.
There are instructions to follow and you have to do it exactly to them or ... :o  :-X

let us know which you have so we can comment further.
I have a Microsoft Surface Pro 3 running Windows 10.

Resthome

You will need a USB cable that came with the Classic.

Also download the latest Instructions for Win 10 from the MN web site. Both the Win7 and win10 Instructions have recently been update as MN is only providing the new Programmer package for the firmware.
John

10 x Kyocera KC140, Classic 150 w/WBJr, Link10 Battery Monitor, 850 AH @ 12v Solar One 2v cells, Xantrex PROwatt SW2000
Off Grid on Houseboat Lake Don Pedro, CA