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#1
Off Topic Discussions / Re: Anyone seen the Outback fo...
Last post by ralph day - Today at 07:28:37 AMI've been following boB and Robin for 20 years. 2004 off grid with Xantrex, , 2015 Outback 3648 inverter (Xantrex 4048 replacement), 2015 Midnite Classic 250 for a wind turbine (Clipper too)...SPD's everywhere.
I was one of those waiting for Midnite inverter in 2015, but not available yet. Now, if I need replacement hardware there's only one place to source...Midnite.
Just don't sell out! We've all seen what happens when boB and Robin hand over the multimeters to bean counters!
I was one of those waiting for Midnite inverter in 2015, but not available yet. Now, if I need replacement hardware there's only one place to source...Midnite.
Just don't sell out! We've all seen what happens when boB and Robin hand over the multimeters to bean counters!
#2
The "Classic" charge controller / Re: Replacing FETs on Classic ...
Last post by Hockey - Today at 12:57:26 AMAs best as I can tell, the Onsemi version of this octocoupler is FOD3120. Screen snapshot attached from the datasheet.
Link to Onsemi FOD3120
As for testing the existing 3120s on board...
Bench supply voltage was set to 2.5V, and current limited to 14mA between pin 2 & pin 3. When the supply was switched on, Voltage dropped to around 1.5 (as expected). Current was 14mA, and resistance on pin 6/7 dropped dramatically.
Not the most robust test, but it was the best I could do with:
1. My limited skill, knowledge, experience and test gear.
2. Having to test the chips on board which makes me suspicious of any results given all the other on board components that may affect results.
I found 4 3120s, all of which exhibited results that makes me, with some skepticism, give them a clean bill of health.
FedEX with FETs from digikey arrives tomorrow.
Will update status soon.
Link to Onsemi FOD3120
As for testing the existing 3120s on board...
Bench supply voltage was set to 2.5V, and current limited to 14mA between pin 2 & pin 3. When the supply was switched on, Voltage dropped to around 1.5 (as expected). Current was 14mA, and resistance on pin 6/7 dropped dramatically.
Not the most robust test, but it was the best I could do with:
1. My limited skill, knowledge, experience and test gear.
2. Having to test the chips on board which makes me suspicious of any results given all the other on board components that may affect results.
I found 4 3120s, all of which exhibited results that makes me, with some skepticism, give them a clean bill of health.
FedEX with FETs from digikey arrives tomorrow.
Will update status soon.
#3
Off Topic Discussions / Re: Anyone seen the Outback fo...
Last post by boB - Today at 12:20:11 AMWell, OutBack was sold again you know.
I am not sure what the future is of that forum ?
#4
Off Topic Discussions / Re: Anyone seen the Outback fo...
Last post by loonst - May 28, 2024, 08:58:48 PMme too
I couldn't log in
I couldn't log in
#5
Off Topic Discussions / Re: Midnite solar classic wir...
Last post by loonst - May 28, 2024, 08:55:09 PMThe answer is simply put....Yes
#6
New Product Ideas and Discussion / remote battery sensing
Last post by Barry Fields - May 28, 2024, 07:44:39 PMFor those MidNite products that have remote Battery Bank Sensing, do they ever compare Remote vs Unit Battery voltage?
For example: An Inverter putting out 6000watts (48v Bank) is drawing approx 125 amps. If the voltage drop between the Battery Bank and the unit is 1volt, 125watts of power is being dissipated in either the cabling or the connections. If a majority is being dissipated in one connection, that connection may overheat.
It may be a good idea to check that remote/unit voltage differential daily at start of the day (once a reasonable current is reached). Better to check before an issue occurs.
For example: An Inverter putting out 6000watts (48v Bank) is drawing approx 125 amps. If the voltage drop between the Battery Bank and the unit is 1volt, 125watts of power is being dissipated in either the cabling or the connections. If a majority is being dissipated in one connection, that connection may overheat.
It may be a good idea to check that remote/unit voltage differential daily at start of the day (once a reasonable current is reached). Better to check before an issue occurs.
#7
Lead Acid (Sealed and flooded) / Re: Proposed Solar Charging Re...
Last post by boB - May 28, 2024, 02:39:05 PMGo for it !
#8
Lead Acid (Sealed and flooded) / Re: Proposed Solar Charging Re...
Last post by Barry Fields - May 28, 2024, 02:08:11 PMQuote from: Barry Fields on May 25, 2024, 06:51:54 PMI am about to forward the below to East Penn Batteries to ask for comments and "?approval?".
I would appreciate any input aforehand.
Last chance for comments before I email this proposal.
Thanks Barry
#9
Lead Acid (Sealed and flooded) / newest East Penn Charging Para...
Last post by Barry Fields - May 28, 2024, 12:44:22 PMJust an FYI. updated 11/23
#10
The "Classic" charge controller / Re: Replacing FETs on Classic ...
Last post by boB - May 28, 2024, 02:46:39 AMYes, that FET is good but a 150V FET will have almost half the RdsOn of 17 milliOhms.
As far as removing and replacing FETs, what I do is use an iron with some good amount of power (150W ?) and a wide enough tip to straddle all 3 FET pins. Then, after possibly using a bit of solder or flux, pull the part straight out. Replace it the same way. Then you don't have to clip any leads or clear any holes.
Hopefully you can put the Amo beads (the blue things) back on the high-side FET drain leads.
Not a huge deal if you break one or two of those but try not to put them back on the low-side FETs.
The drivers are fairly easy to get. HCPL-3120 or the Fairchild (On-Semi now) equivalent. Cant remember the number right off.
The drivers do not always break. Check the gate resistors too. Alternating 5 and 10 Ohms I think
boB
As far as removing and replacing FETs, what I do is use an iron with some good amount of power (150W ?) and a wide enough tip to straddle all 3 FET pins. Then, after possibly using a bit of solder or flux, pull the part straight out. Replace it the same way. Then you don't have to clip any leads or clear any holes.
Hopefully you can put the Amo beads (the blue things) back on the high-side FET drain leads.
Not a huge deal if you break one or two of those but try not to put them back on the low-side FETs.
The drivers are fairly easy to get. HCPL-3120 or the Fairchild (On-Semi now) equivalent. Cant remember the number right off.
The drivers do not always break. Check the gate resistors too. Alternating 5 and 10 Ohms I think
boB