Setup with Classic Getting Tingling Sensation at Battery Bank Positive.

[finalman]

I notice I get electrical tingling sensation when I touch the battery bank positive terminal and touching the ground without shoes while connected to the Classics.

My battery bank is four 12v 280AH batteries in series making 48v. Currently it's only a DC system with no AC inverter as I'm currently acquiring components.

I have the Earthing wire from the earth stake going to the classic with the ground fault jumper enabled and the GFP enabled in the classic menus.

So should I be getting this tingling sensation or not?

Or is there a fault somewhere?

[Westbranch]

pls tell us about the wiring to the loads...  is the wiring like a standard AC house wiring or ??


and touching the ground without shoes while connected to the Classics.

Who or what is connected to the Classic and where is contact being made?

[finalman]

pls tell us about the wiring to the loads...  is the wiring like a standard AC house wiring or ??

Two 70mm2 copper cables, each 3.5 meter long for + and - both within separate individual Flexible electrical conduit of their own.

[and touching the ground without shoes while connected to the Classics./i]

Touching battery negative and barefoot touching the dirt I get no sensations while classic going. Touching earthstake and barefoot touching the dirt I get no sensations while classic going.

Who or what is connected to the Classic and where is contact being made?

No Solar is connected to the classic at those times. No loads on the battery bank except for the Classic.

[Halfcrazy]

Yes some people will "feel" 48vdc through them. One hand on 48 volt positive and one on ground would do that

[dgd]

No offence intended Finalman but..

This is one of the stupidest things I have ever read on this forum.
What are you doing barefoot on ground then touching terminals on a battery bank? or power terminals anywhere for that matter.
It does not matter if its 12vDC or 48V DC or any other voltage, you DO NOT place your body in a situation where an electrical circuit could be completed. People die or get badly burnt doing this.
If you must use bare hands on live electric connections (which is also a looney tunes thing to do), then at minimum make sure you have insulated socks/boots on your feet and no other part of your body is earthed or in contact with another live terminal.

Also it might be an idea to find a local college with an Electricity 101 course and Enrol.
sorry that was too rude 

dgd

[finalman]

Tried my other classic 150-SL and it does the same thing. Completely isolated the two individually from both DC and earth. Must be completely normal.

Pic of my setup is as follows just so you can see how I split the + and - between the two classics.

[dgd]

Finalman,

Nice pics of your Classics and wiring. Just a couple of suggestions.
Each Classic would normally have an 80 or 100 amp breaker in its +ve line before connecting to that common connection point. Usually these would be in a box such as an Epanel, MNDC or even a MNEDC, where the common -ve connection would be, perhaps on the non battery end of a Deltec 500A shunt.
Then one of the Classics would have a WBjr connected to measure true battery current and perhaps have charge termination controlled by an End Amps setting.
I can't see that little purple wire going to the AUX terminal in any of your Classics so I'm assuming you have not connected a WBjr or shunt?
Those in-flex-conduit wires don't look 70mm2, maybe 50mm2. My 70mm2 teneflex cables look way fatter than yours 

Please post a wider view of your power panel/wall etc

cheers

dgd

[finalman]

Finalman,

Nice pics of your Classics and wiring. Just a couple of suggestions.
Each Classic would normally have an 80 or 100 amp breaker in its +ve line before connecting to that common connection point. Usually these would be in a box such as an Epanel, MNDC or even a MNEDC, where the common -ve connection would be, perhaps on the non battery end of a Deltec 500A shunt.

Good to know I'll be able to connect the 2nd classic to position 2 of my fuse block disconnect.

Then one of the Classics would have a WBjr connected to measure true battery current and perhaps have charge termination controlled by an End Amps setting.
I can't see that little purple wire going to the AUX terminal in any of your Classics so I'm assuming you have not connected a WBjr or shunt?

I had a WBJr in there up until midday yesterday but removed it as I'm getting a dedicated battery monitor and shunt. When the WBJr was in circuit I had to extend the purple wire and noticed it wasn't accurate anymore. Even though to try to reduce the interference I used twisted pairs from an old Ethernet cable. I had read connecting one of the 2 wires to the ground connection at one end and leaving it off at the WBJr end might help but couldn't be bothered so I never tried.

Those in-flex-conduit wires don't look 70mm2, maybe 50mm2. My 70mm2 teneflex cables look way fatter than yours 

My copper cable core diameter is 10-11mm so that should be around 70mm2. Conduit in the picture is 32mm so the cable might look smaller if your using 25mm conduit.

Please post a wider view of your power panel/wall etc

When I get more done that was the plan. Currently only got what you see plus 2 isolators and a fuse box.

cheers

dgd
[/quote]

[dgd]

I had a WBJr in there up until midday yesterday but removed it as I'm getting a dedicated battery monitor and shunt. When the WBJr was in circuit I had to extend the purple wire and noticed it wasn't accurate anymore. Even though to try to reduce the interference I used twisted pairs from an old Ethernet cable. I had read connecting one of the 2 wires to the ground connection at one end and leaving it off at the WBJr end might help but couldn't be bothered so I never tried.

Ok, however the WBjr is actually a pretty accurate battery monitor with the major advantage that the Classsic can use data from the WBjr to terminate absorb stage battery charging.
This is something you cannot do with a separate battery monitor.
So if you have not bought it already then I wouldn't bother, just get the WBjr working.
If you need to extend the purple cable then use a similar multi strand cable and solder it to the existing cable. I have seen a 5 metre cable used with no errors.
Ethernet cable I would avoid as its single core and too easily kink cracked or broken, also avoid the two core idea with one core of a twisted pair earthed. Not necessary

Dgd

[CDN-VT]

pls tell us about the wiring to the loads...  is the wiring like a standard AC house wiring or ??


and touching the ground without shoes while connected to the Classics.

Who or what is connected to the Classic and where is contact being made?

Normal !! = too feel the tingle , not smart , warning !!

WEAR SHOES & realize your in a "Working Environment "

If your using your body as a meter , and touch the PV array in DC , you might never need shoes again .

Work Safe
I try and I still Fubar things
VT

[mike90045]

Uh oh.  This is a BAD Thing.   You are VERY close to killing yourself.
  Just because code says <50V is allowed, does not mean it's safe.

The only good thing is that the tingle means it's AC.  DC your body would cramp right up, and 10mA is all it takes (0.01A) to stop your heart.

So, there is an inverter, that somehow is energizing your battery +, or the classic itself, is somehow using it's inductors to gjve you a buzz.

[Cniemand]

Why do you figure AC has a tingle relative to DC clamping? Would that be due to the AC crossing over the center point of its wave? I.E. an oscillation of your muscle fibers clamping and releasing? Hmm.

[ClassicCrazy]

Might as well link up the guy who tests it all on himself

https://youtu.be/snk3C4m44SY

and this one

https://youtu.be/hp97GjuULX8

[Cniemand]

Larry,

Was that suppose to be comedy? I ask because that was gold!

[ClassicCrazy]

He does a good presentation
Here is another one
Which is the Killer, Current or Voltage?
https://youtu.be/XDf2nhfxVzg