What is ending amps?

[unyalli]

I searched the manual and found 15 or so instances of depending but not one ending. In this forum a search on ending amps returns all sorts of amps and a few depending's but no ending amps.

- Jeff

[Westbranch]

 'End Amps' is the limit at which the  Absorb stage will stop.  If you set EA at, say, 2 amps, Absorb will end when the CC is sending 2A to the battery.  EA is based on the batteries capacity, usually +- 2% or so of Battery Ah.

[unyalli]

Interesting. Shouldn't this be in the area where you set your absorb voltage?

On the 2% note, I'm guessing 0 is not good but 4.4 for 220ah of batteries? Hmmmmm??  Interesteng again. With out measuring loads how can I reliably determine this? If I'm pulling 5 amps with a fan and stereo and what ever I would need this to be 9.4. If I'm idle with 0.2 amps load I would need 4.6.

- Jeff

[Westbranch]

it's a bit more complex than that... it's based on your PV input, need to complete Absorb, usage, manufacturers recommendation, etc.
see this post ,
http://www.wind-sun.com/ForumVB/showthread.php?19392-classic-150-settings&highlight=end+amps

[unyalli]

What shunt do you prefer? I will get it and install in anticipation.

[unyalli]

it's a bit more complex than that... it's based on your PV input, need to complete Absorb, usage, manufacturers recommendation, etc.
see this post ,
http://www.wind-sun.com/ForumVB/showthread.php?19392-classic-150-settings&highlight=end+amps

Excellent thread, thank you. I bookmarked for further study but the jist which is confirmed boB is the timer overrides so ending amps can be 0 as long as you adjust the timer. Got it.

[boB]

Interesting. Shouldn't this be in the area where you set your absorb voltage?

On the 2% note, I'm guessing 0 is not good but 4.4 for 220ah of batteries? Hmmmmm??  Interesteng again. With out measuring loads how can I reliably determine this? If I'm pulling 5 amps with a fan and stereo and what ever I would need this to be 9.4. If I'm idle with 0.2 amps load I would need 4.6.

- Jeff

Jeff, you bring up a great question about the Classic not knowing what the DC loads are as opposed to what the
Classic is putting out its battery terminals.  The Classic does not know its output from the loads connected.

Nonetheless, the option is there for people that know what their loads are or have low enough loads
that they can make use of the Ending Amps adjustment.

First, the Absorb cycle will end when its timer expires (2 hours or whatever).  The Ending Amps just
gives the Classic a chance to end its Absorb charge cycle earlier than the Absorb timer is set for.

So, if the battery voltage is at Absorb and the DC loads go down and the output current drops
below the EA setting for 90 seconds, the Classic will go to Float.

Now, we are coming out soon with the Wizbang Junior which will allow the Classic to know
what the battery current is through the usual negative lead battery shunt.  When that
happens, the Classic can know the real story all the time.

boB

[ChrisOlson]

Now, we are coming out soon with the Wizbang Junior which will allow the Classic to know
what the battery current is through the usual negative lead battery shunt.  When that
happens, the Classic can know the real story all the time.

The Classic and inverter will have to be on one side of that shunt.  And the battery on the other side.  So the Classic can measure the net power to the battery.  That's going to take a big shunt - like 500 amp.

What confuses me about this is what if the Classic is charging at 80 amps but the inverter is drawing 120 amps?  So there's 40 amps net current flowing thru the shunt.  But the Classic will know it's a net deficit to the battery because it "sees" a negative value on the mV reading across the shunt?
--
Chris

[Westbranch]

Chris, as I understand it it will be the WBjr that 'knows' that it is a net loss as it will see the neg flow from the battery and the Classic will know that it is 'sending' Amps towards the shunt but it never gets there because the WBJr sends the data telling the CL it (battery) is not being charged . 

Robin said on NAWS
"Yes the one wire connects to Aux2 on the Classic. It sends power to charge up a cap on the WBJr and then turns around and sends data."

Actually it will have to be the CL that calculates it all out to tell the truth...smart buggers those 2...

Hope this is right...

Eric

[toothy]

Are end amps collective with several Classics in "follow me'? Or is it every controller for itself?

Thanks

[ChrisOlson]

Are end amps collective with several Classics in "follow me'? Or is it every controller for itself?

It seems to me that you would only need it on one controller in a bank of "Follow Me" controllers.  The others all have absorb timers and you enable End Amps on only one that you want to be the "master".

If any one of them time out on absorb then they'll all drop to float anyway, as the whole works should if the timers are set properly in every controller.  But if the "master" sees that there's amps going to the batteries from any source, and those amps are not at or below the End Amps then it should stay in Absorb until all the stipulations for the absorb stage are met.

Those amps could be coming from a different controller, a DC genset, or even the inverter/charger with an AC generator running.  It shouldn't matter.  If those charging amps are above End Amps and the voltage is at the proper level for absorb, it should stay there and not "fool" the other controllers into dropping into Float.

That would be my vision of how it works.

How all this works if the "master" controller goes into Resting mode, however, due to not putting out any power due to another source providing it all, remains a mystery at this point.
--
Chris

[boB]

Chris is correct.

Before the Wizbang Jr. is released, which knows exactly what is going into the battery itself,
you would have to divide up the Ending Amps amongst the controllers and since they may
not all share Absorb current exactly the same,  that may not work all that great.

The problem is that because that one Classic with its Ending Amps set to above zero,
(the master as Chris says), it may see Absorb voltage and possibly NO current because
another Classic may be holding up the battery voltage at that time or for the 90
second period necessary to end the Absorb cycle.  In that case, that one Classic
will falsely stop the Absorb cycle and go to Float.

For multiple Classics, I think I would wait for the WB Jr. shunt monitor so there is
one and only one real battery current monitor to end the Absorb cycle and tell
the Classics to go to Float.

boB