I’ve just upgraded my system to 24v. I changed the charge configuration by multiplying the current settings by 2. Just wondering if the SOC is also the same? I was using 12.8 down to about 12.1 for my SOC, do I also just multiply for 24v? 24.2v to 25.6v?
Also are there any other settings I should be changing? I’ve changed my wizbang jr max amp to 10% or the battery aH for charging. Changed the wizbang jr aH to 420aH, I seen rebulk was at 8 not sure if that should be higher.
Anything else I’m forgetting?
Quote from: Simonbr on July 02, 2022, 09:51:38 AM
I’ve just upgraded my system to 24v. I changed the charge configuration by multiplying the current settings by 2. Just wondering if the SOC is also the same? I was using 12.8 down to about 12.1 for my SOC, do I also just multiply for 24v? 24.2v to 25.6v?
Also are there any other settings I should be changing? I’ve changed my wizbang jr max amp to 10% or the battery aH for charging. Changed the wizbang jr aH to 420aH, I seen rebulk was at 8 not sure if that should be higher.
Anything else I’m forgetting?
What kind of batteries do you have - that is what makes the difference for the charging voltage setpoints.
The SOC capacity is based on the ah capacity of your batteries. Two batteries in series is the same AH capacity as one.
The SOC efficiency % is based on the kind of batteries you have.
From what information you have provided it is hard to give any suggestions.
Larry
Oh y’a forgot to mention that. I have 4x6v 420aH lead acid batteries connected in series.
Quote from: Simonbr on July 02, 2022, 11:11:14 AM
Oh y’a forgot to mention that. I have 4x6v 420aH lead acid batteries connected in series.
Your Whizbang ah will be 420 ah . You didn't say if they are flooded or sealed agm/ gel type batteries.
For flooded Trojan recommends 2.45v per cell x 12 = 29.4v absorb . But not sure what manufacturer you have.
Here is the Trojan info https://www.solar-electric.com/lib/wind-sun/Trojan-userguide.pdf
Different settings for AGM or Gel
Also depends if you are going to use your whizbang to set ending amps then that would be around 4 hours absorb time and 5 a for ending amps for the flooded.
Really depends on your usuage and you would need to confirm using specific gravity if flooded.
Somewhere in the battery specs it will say the temp compensation which will be most likely around -3mv ( classic will multply that out automatically for amount of cells).
If you look at East Penn Deka then you will see it is a bit different from Trojan
https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/wp-content/uploads/Renewable-Energy-Charging-Parameters-1913.pdf
Vic usually says that flooded lead acid efficiency is around 88 but some use something a bit higher like maybe 92 % . You have to observe and tweak it to match your system .
Look here for a lot of info
http://www.midniteftp.com/support/kb/faq.php?cid=1
Also not sure what controller you are using but lots of info tutorials here
https://www.youtube.com/user/MidNiteSolar/videos
Larry
They are flooded lead acid batteries. I have interstate l16 batteries, there is no data for them but most say they are manufactured by us batteries. Link to data sheet below.I currently have my absorption to 29v and float to 27.6v, staying in the mid range. I’ve set the absorption time to 4 hours and ending amps to 9.5a which falls between the 2 to 3% of 420aH.
As for the t-comp I have it currently set at -5.0mV, what would you suggest for my setup knowing a little more about batteries now?
https://www.usbattery.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/usb_L16xc_data_sheet_11_2019.2.pdf (https://www.usbattery.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/usb_L16xc_data_sheet_11_2019.2.pdf)
Quote from: Simonbr on July 03, 2022, 01:46:42 PM
They are flooded lead acid batteries. I have interstate l16 batteries, there is no data for them but most say they are manufactured by us batteries. Link to data sheet below.I currently have my absorption to 29v and float to 27.6v, staying in the mid range. I’ve set the absorption time to 4 hours and ending amps to 9.5a which falls between the 2 to 3% of 420aH.
As for the t-comp I have it currently set at -5.0mV, what would you suggest for my setup knowing a little more about batteries now?
https://www.usbattery.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/usb_L16xc_data_sheet_11_2019.2.pdf (https://www.usbattery.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/usb_L16xc_data_sheet_11_2019.2.pdf)
Look at the life cycles per dod depth of discharge graph
You will see how much longer the batteries last if you only take 20% out of them compared to 50%
Your link seems to say -3mv per cell and not -5 although they left out a zero - maybe misprint ?
"Battery temperature adjustment: reduce the voltage by 0.028 Volts per cell for every 10°F above 80°F, increase by the same
amount for temperatures below 80°F."
sometime when you discharge batteries by a good amount - then you can check the specific gravity of electrolyte to see if when the classic says it gets to ending amps - the SG is showing full as shown in your manufacturers data. New batteries need some cycles to break them in to working at their full capacity.
Larry
Quote from: ClassicCrazy on July 03, 2022, 03:14:41 PM
Quote from: Simonbr on July 03, 2022, 01:46:42 PM
They are flooded lead acid batteries. I have interstate l16 batteries, there is no data for them but most say they are manufactured by us batteries. Link to data sheet below.I currently have my absorption to 29v and float to 27.6v, staying in the mid range. I’ve set the absorption time to 4 hours and ending amps to 9.5a which falls between the 2 to 3% of 420aH.
As for the t-comp I have it currently set at -5.0mV, what would you suggest for my setup knowing a little more about batteries now?
https://www.usbattery.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/usb_L16xc_data_sheet_11_2019.2.pdf (https://www.usbattery.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/usb_L16xc_data_sheet_11_2019.2.pdf)
Your link seems to say -3mv per cell and not -5 although they left out a zero - maybe misprint ?
"Battery temperature adjustment: reduce the voltage by 0.028 Volts per cell for every 10°F above 80°F, increase by the same
amount for temperatures below 80°F."
sometime when you discharge batteries by a good amount - then you can check the specific gravity of electrolyte to see if when the classic says it gets to ending amps - the SG is showing full as shown in your manufacturers data. New batteries need some cycles to break them in to working at their full capacity.
Larry
The one gotcha in the USBattery data on Temp Comp, is that they use a temp range, of 10 degrees, and the other one, is that they are using degrees F, so, IMO, 0.028 V per ten degrees F range is 5 mV per degree C, for a Classic, -5 mV/C, should do the trick.
Simon, I think that your Float V is a bit high, and, also think that your EA setting is too high. But, unfortunately, the proper EA setting for Flooded Lead Acid (FLA) batteries seems to vary, depending on the Depth Of Discharge (DOD), in the previous discharge.
BTW, my FLA batteries, have a nominal Charge Efficiency, that is a bit less than 80%, but this number also varies, depending on the DOD -- lightly-cycled FLA batteries tend to have lower charge efficiency.
Flooded batteries, are generally, very forgiving. But follow Larry's advice: measuring SGs is THE Gold Standard for confirming charge voltage, time, and EQ necessity/effectiveness for your batteries, as they are being charged and used.
IMO, Vic
Thanks Vic - I was wondering about that temp compensation and didn't notice the 10 vs 5 degree difference !
Larry
Quote from: Vic on July 03, 2022, 03:38:43 PM
Quote from: ClassicCrazy on July 03, 2022, 03:14:41 PM
Quote from: Simonbr on July 03, 2022, 01:46:42 PM
They are flooded lead acid batteries. I have interstate l16 batteries, there is no data for them but most say they are manufactured by us batteries. Link to data sheet below.I currently have my absorption to 29v and float to 27.6v, staying in the mid range. I’ve set the absorption time to 4 hours and ending amps to 9.5a which falls between the 2 to 3% of 420aH.
As for the t-comp I have it currently set at -5.0mV, what would you suggest for my setup knowing a little more about batteries now?
https://www.usbattery.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/usb_L16xc_data_sheet_11_2019.2.pdf (https://www.usbattery.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/usb_L16xc_data_sheet_11_2019.2.pdf)
Your link seems to say -3mv per cell and not -5 although they left out a zero - maybe misprint ?
"Battery temperature adjustment: reduce the voltage by 0.028 Volts per cell for every 10°F above 80°F, increase by the same
amount for temperatures below 80°F."
sometime when you discharge batteries by a good amount - then you can check the specific gravity of electrolyte to see if when the classic says it gets to ending amps - the SG is showing full as shown in your manufacturers data. New batteries need some cycles to break them in to working at their full capacity.
Larry
The one gotcha in the USBattery data on Temp Comp, is that they use a temp range, of 10 degrees, and the other one, is that they are using degrees F, so, IMO, 0.028 V per ten degrees F range is 5 mV per degree C, for a Classic, -5 mV/C, should do the trick.
Simon, I think that your Float V is a bit high, and, also think that your EA setting is too high. But, unfortunately, the proper EA setting for Flooded Lead Acid (FLA) batteries seems to vary, depending on the Depth Of Discharge (DOD), in the previous discharge.
BTW, my FLA batteries, have a nominal Charge Efficiency, that is a bit less than 80%, but this number also varies, depending on the DOD -- lightly-cycled FLA batteries tend to have lower charge efficiency.
Flooded batteries, are generally, very forgiving. But follow Larry's advice: measuring SGs is THE Gold Standard for confirming charge voltage, time, and EQ necessity/effectiveness for your batteries, as they are being charged and used.
IMO, Vic
I’ve just completed a full charge to float today and verified the SG. The classic is showing 99% but SG is only at about 1.23 so I imagine I need to adjust things.
What would you suggest for float V and end amp? Is the 4 hours long enough? Maybe it’s reaching the time before the end amps. Is there a way to know if the time ran out before the end amps were reached?
I also noticed that for my absorption voltage there was very slight battery bubbles and some smell, would you suggest I lower that too? I was using 14.4 back when only doing 12v with 2x 6v batteries, so I might return to 28.8v
Hi Simon,
I forget, if these are new-ish batteries ... if so, it can take about 15 -50 cycles, for the batts to settle-in, kind of a break-in.
Did you regularly take SG readings, before going to 24 V? You could have had some deficit-charging, previously.
Are you using a known-good, Hydrometer, or Refractometer?
To me, a Sulfur aroma during Abosrb (and EQ) means that the batts really needed that charge, and if the aroma still exists at the end of Absorb (or EQ), it means to me, that the battery needs more charging.
The desired length of Absorb, varies, with the DOD of the battery, in the previous discharge. SO, it is really a variable length.
The FLA batts here need an EA of about 1.3% of 20 hour Capacity. One way to tell a good starting place for EA, is, to set a long Absorb time, like about 6 hours, and watch the Wb Amps into the battery (on the MNGP, or Local App). When the Wb amps stop diminishing, this about the right setting for EA. However, if you have fairly large loads, that are cycling on/off ( line an A/C), this will change the Wb amps, somewhat -- this is caused by the change in the voltage drop in the cable, and circuit breaker between the Classic and the battery.
Nothing needs to be perfect, with FLAs. Would suggest a longer Absorb, or two, to see if you can get the SGs up. About how often do you EQ your batts? If you have a 20, or so point variation in SGs, after measuring each cell, you probably need ot EQ, after a full-ish charge.
I would use the recommended Vfloat, from US B, it seemed that you were above that value.
More later, Vic
Quote from: Vic on July 03, 2022, 07:06:33 PM
Hi Simon,
I forget, if these are new-ish batteries ... if so, it can take about 15 -50 cycles, for the batts to settle-in, kind of a break-in.
Did you regularly take SG readings, before going to 24 V? You could have had some deficit-charging, previously.
Are you using a known-good, Hydrometer, or Refractometer?
To me, a Sulfur aroma during Abosrb (and EQ) means that the batts really needed that charge, and if the aroma still exists at the end of Absorb (or EQ), it means to me, that the battery needs more charging.
The desired length of Absorb, varies, with the DOD of the battery, in the previous discharge. SO, it is really a variable length.
The FLA batts here need an EA of about 1.3% of 20 hour Capacity. One way to tell a good starting place for EA, is, to set a long Absorb time, like about 6 hours, and watch the Wb Amps into the battery (on the MNGP, or Local App). When the Wb amps stop diminishing, this about the right setting for EA. However, if you have fairly large loads, that are cycling on/off ( line an A/C), this will change the Wb amps, somewhat -- this is caused by the change in the voltage drop in the cable, and circuit breaker between the Classic and the battery.
Nothing needs to be perfect, with FLAs. Would suggest a longer Absorb, or two, to see if you can get the SGs up. About how often do you EQ your batts? If you have a 20, or so point variation in SGs, after measuring each cell, you probably need ot EQ, after a full-ish charge.
I would use the recommended Vfloat, from US B, it seemed that you were above that value.
More later, Vic
Hello Vic, I will try to give you all the info, I hope I don't forget any information.
Last year I purchased 2x of the Interstate 6v 420aH batteries and used an Epever 40a SCC then changed to the Midnite Classic 150. I always has a hard time getting the SG up to the correct level. I only use the system from May to October, so at the end of the season I returned the batteries to the store so they could test the batteries and was told they had only needed about 1 hour extra charge time to get up to the correct SG. The solar tech at the store let me know to increase the absorption time and that should do the trick.
I already had the idea to move up to 24v instead of 12v so this year I purchased 2 more of the same batteries and a new inverter charger (Aims 24v 3k). Before moving the batteries to the camp I made sure I charged them both at home to the 1.27-1.28 level.
So to answer your first question, last year I was in a deficit and tried to get them higher but didn't know as much as I know now. I have both a refractometer and hydrometer but I usually always use the Refractometer as i find more accurate. Its the same one I used just 2 months ago to confirm the charge at home.
I do have a DC fridge that cycles on and off so this might affect the EA as you mentionned.
What do you think I should do at this point? Here are my thoughts with settings;
-Configure Absorption to 28.8v
-Configure float to 26.1v
-Configure EA to 5.5a
-Configure Abs time to 5 hours
-Configure EQ 29.8v
-Check the SG of all cells today and if they are off from each other, perform an EQ tomorrow to get them all equal.
Just two questions I have,
1. I don't like how high the US Battery EQ is on their sheet, when I was doing 12V people where saying 15v was high. Do you think my 29.8v is good and still at a safe level?
2. Is there a way to know what ended the absorption, if it was the EA or the timer? I'm not always close to my SCC so its hard to tell once I get to it.
Hi Simon, thanks for all the additional info.
Little time, right now, but:
'
If you can get the Classic on My Midnite, the MN web site, that allows the Classic to report-in about every five minutes, you can see when the Classic beging Absorb, and when it ends, AND you can also see the Wb current, from each report during Absorb (as well as all other times). The time resolution, is usually better than +/- ten minutes.
You can also get the amount of time that the CC has been in Float, in the Charge>Time>More page on the MNGP, for the total Absorb time, BUT, you need to know what time the CC went to Absorb ...
More Later, Vic
Quote from: Vic on July 04, 2022, 11:16:59 AM
Hi Simon, thanks for all the additional info.
Little time, right now, but:
'
If you can get the Classic on My Midnite, the MN web site, that allows the Classic to report-in about every five minutes, you can see when the Classic beging Absorb, and when it ends, AND you can also see the Wb current, from each report during Absorb (as well as all other times). The time resolution, is usually better than +/- ten minutes.
You can also get the amount of time that the CC has been in Float, in the Charge>Time>More page on the MNGP, for the total Absorb time, BUT, you need to know what time the CC went to Absorb ...
More Later, Vic
Thank you for this I will configure the networking to log. What do you think about the other info on voltages and EA?
Quote from: Simonbr on July 04, 2022, 03:04:21 PM
Quote from: Vic on July 04, 2022, 11:16:59 AM
Hi Simon, thanks for all the additional info.
Little time, right now, but:
'
If you can get the Classic on My Midnite, the MN web site, that allows the Classic to report-in about every five minutes, you can see when the Classic beging Absorb, and when it ends, AND you can also see the Wb current, from each report during Absorb (as well as all other times). The time resolution, is usually better than +/- ten minutes.
You can also get the amount of time that the CC has been in Float, in the Charge>Time>More page on the MNGP, for the total Absorb time, BUT, you need to know what time the CC went to Absorb ...
More Later, Vic
Thank you for this I will configure the networking to log. What do you think about the other info on voltages and EA?
Hi Simon. Regarding EA:
"The FLA batts here need an EA of about 1.3% of 20 hour Capacity. One way to tell a good starting place for EA, is, to set a long Absorb time, like about 6 hours, and watch the Wb Amps into the battery (on the MNGP, or Local App). When the Wb amps stop diminishing, this about the right setting for EA. However, if you have fairly large loads, that are cycling on/off ( line an A/C), this will change the Wb amps, somewhat -- this is caused by the change in the voltage drop in the cable, and circuit breaker between the Classic and the battery".
IMO, 29,8 Veq, is FAR too low, it the battery bank really needs an EQ. I would say 30.5 minimum. But, a good way to determine Veq, is to take SG readings on a couple of your Pilot Cells (usually chosen from the cells that customarily have a bit lower SG readings than the rest. Check 1-2 of them every 30-ish minutes, to see if their SGs are still rising. If they are not, then this usually means that further EQ (at that Veq) will yield no improvement in SGs. If you still see more variation in SGs, when each cell is measured, then, IMO, raise the Veq 1/2 V, or so, depending on the amount of the variation in SGs.
My favorite FLA maunfacturer -- Surrette -- recommends a minimum Veq, for 24 V FLAs, of 31 V, the last time I checked. (although, they recommend a Vabs of 30 V). These high numbers, are probably due the finding that many FLA users, kill their batts, from chronic under-charging ...
Five hours of Absorb, is a long time. If your batts really need this much Absorb time, then perhaps do not raise the Vabs, too much from where you are. But, just watch the Wb amps into the battery, and when it no longer diminishes for 10 - 20 minutes, then you should be done, at least for that day. That intermittent load on the system, might cause the Wb current to vary a bit on its own.
Back to work, here. There is an Android Phone App, on this site, written by a chap named, Graham, that could be very useful for you to use to watch your Classic charge the batts. Will look for that link, Vic
Vic was mentioning the other monitoring apps
If you have Android look for Midnite Classic Monitoring app in the playstore.
https://play.google.com/store/search?q=classic%20monitoring%20app&c=apps
If you have more tech skills and want to do more look here
https://github.com/ClassicDIY
Larry
Quote from: Vic on July 04, 2022, 03:39:22 PM
Quote from: Simonbr on July 04, 2022, 03:04:21 PM
Quote from: Vic on July 04, 2022, 11:16:59 AM
Hi Simon, thanks for all the additional info.
Little time, right now, but:
'
If you can get the Classic on My Midnite, the MN web site, that allows the Classic to report-in about every five minutes, you can see when the Classic beging Absorb, and when it ends, AND you can also see the Wb current, from each report during Absorb (as well as all other times). The time resolution, is usually better than +/- ten minutes.
You can also get the amount of time that the CC has been in Float, in the Charge>Time>More page on the MNGP, for the total Absorb time, BUT, you need to know what time the CC went to Absorb ...
More Later, Vic
Thank you for this I will configure the networking to log. What do you think about the other info on voltages and EA?
Hi Simon. Regarding EA:
"The FLA batts here need an EA of about 1.3% of 20 hour Capacity. One way to tell a good starting place for EA, is, to set a long Absorb time, like about 6 hours, and watch the Wb Amps into the battery (on the MNGP, or Local App). When the Wb amps stop diminishing, this about the right setting for EA. However, if you have fairly large loads, that are cycling on/off ( line an A/C), this will change the Wb amps, somewhat -- this is caused by the change in the voltage drop in the cable, and circuit breaker between the Classic and the battery".
IMO, 29,8 Veq, is FAR too low, it the battery bank really needs an EQ. I would say 30.5 minimum. But, a good way to determine Veq, is to take SG readings on a couple of your Pilot Cells (usually chosen from the cells that customarily have a bit lower SG readings than the rest. Check 1-2 of them every 30-ish minutes, to see if their SGs are still rising. If they are not, then this usually means that further EQ (at that Veq) will yield no improvement in SGs. If you still see more variation in SGs, when each cell is measured, then, IMO, raise the Veq 1/2 V, or so, depending on the amount of the variation in SGs.
My favorite FLA maunfacturer -- Surrette -- recommends a minimum Veq, for 24 V FLAs, of 31 V, the last time I checked. (although, they recommend a Vabs of 30 V). These high numbers, are probably due the finding that many FLA users, kill their batts, from chronic under-charging ...
Five hours of Absorb, is a long time. If your batts really need this much Absorb time, then perhaps do not raise the Vabs, too much from where you are. But, just watch the Wb amps into the battery, and when it no longer diminishes for 10 - 20 minutes, then you should be done, at least for that day. That intermittent load on the system, might cause the Wb current to vary a bit on its own.
Back to work, here. There is an Android Phone App, on this site, written by a chap named, Graham, that could be very useful for you to use to watch your Classic charge the batts. Will look for that link, Vic
Ok I signed up and registered my classic in my classic site. I only have an iPhone so the android app won’t work.
I verified my SG today while in float and they are at about 1.20 and 1.22 which seems lower then yesterday. I’m at a lost and think I’m changing too much. What do you think I should do first? I changed my abs time to 6 hours and EA to 5.4a. I can wait until tomorrow to see how long I’m in abs for and where the amps finish.
The only big load is my dc fridge taking about 6a and inverter is constantly at about 2a to 4a
Simon,
How much Distilled Water do your batteries consume, and how often?
Your Abosrb time seems quite long, at five hours, to me.
Yes, check EA, tomorrow.
In the morning, before much charging has occurred, what is the Net Ah value?
I would suggest that you increase the Absorb voltage, considerably.
How much faith do you have in your Refractometer? You could try the Hydrometer, as a comparison, if you believe it to be accurate.
Thanks, Vic
I think that you can still get Adobe AIR for the iPhone ?
If so then you can also try My MidNite for monitoring the Classic.
boB
Quote from: Simonbr on July 04, 2022, 05:08:16 PM
Quote from: Vic on July 04, 2022, 03:39:22 PM
Quote from: Simonbr on July 04, 2022, 03:04:21 PM
Quote from: Vic on July 04, 2022, 11:16:59 AM
Ok I signed up and registered my classic in my classic site. I only have an iPhone so the android app won’t work.
Check that Classic DIY github page - someone was working on an iphone app but not sure of the status of it.
Larry
Quote from: Vic on July 04, 2022, 05:35:20 PM
Simon,
How much Distilled Water do your batteries consume, and how often?
Your Abosrb time seems quite long, at five hours, to me.
Yes, check EA, tomorrow.
In the morning, before much charging has occurred, what is the Net Ah value?
I would suggest that you increase the Absorb voltage, considerably.
How much faith do you have in your Refractometer? You could try the Hydrometer, as a comparison, if you believe it to be accurate.
Thanks, Vic
I have not added distilled water to the old or the new batteries at all, they still have good levels.
I thought you had said to increase the absorption time and set the EA to 1.3% of the 420aH of the battery to find out the limits. Doesn't the CC stop at the EA or the abs time, whichever comes first? I figured if I set it to 6 hours and the EA to 5.4a I could monitor tomorrow to see which ends absorption first. Isn't this how it works?
Tonight the SOC was showing 100% but the SG was telling me something else. Usually in the AM I'm still in the 88% area. I will keep track of this tomorrow, and the MyMidnite will now help me with that too.
I do have allot of faith in it, I will try to calibrate it once I get distilled water, but before we came out at camp May 15 this year, I charged all 4 batteries and the SG was all 1.27 to 1.28
currently my settings are
EQ 29.9v
ABS 29.2v
Float 27v
Quote from: boB on July 04, 2022, 05:53:00 PM
I think that you can still get Adobe AIR for the iPhone ?
If so then you can also try My MidNite for monitoring the Classic.
boB
I am willing to try anything, checked to see for Air and i think its already part of Apple products. Can you link your app?
Quote from: Simonbr on July 04, 2022, 06:41:12 PM
Quote from: Vic on July 04, 2022, 05:35:20 PM
Simon,
How much Distilled Water do your batteries consume, and how often?
Your Abosrb time seems quite long, at five hours, to me.
Yes, check EA, tomorrow.
In the morning, before much charging has occurred, what is the Net Ah value?
I would suggest that you increase the Absorb voltage, considerably.
How much faith do you have in your Refractometer? You could try the Hydrometer, as a comparison, if you believe it to be accurate.
Thanks, Vic
I have not added distilled water to the old or the new batteries at all, they still have good levels.
I thought you had said to increase the absorption time and set the EA to 1.3% of the 420aH of the battery to find out the limits. Doesn't the CC stop at the EA or the abs time, whichever comes first? I figured if I set it to 6 hours and the EA to 5.4a I could monitor tomorrow to see which ends absorption first. Isn't this how it works?
Tonight the SOC was showing 100% but the SG was telling me something else. Usually in the AM I'm still in the 88% area. I will keep track of this tomorrow, and the MyMidnite will now help me with that too.
I do have allot of faith in it, I will try to calibrate it once I get distilled water, but before we came out at camp May 15 this year, I charged all 4 batteries and the SG was all 1.27 to 1.28
currently my settings are
EQ 29.9v
ABS 29.2v
Float 27v
Hi Simon,
Flooded LA batts, that are being charged properly, MUST need make-up distilled water, else, they are being undercharged, period.
I did say to increase the Absorb time, such that you could have enough time to be able to see the EA point, where is ceases diminishing. An absorb of five hours, at 29.2 V, appears to not fully-charging your batts.
I would set Vabs to about 30 V in the AM, tomorrow. AND would generally EQ, at 31 V (t comped) MINIMUM, for now .. perhaps higher ...
Be certain that you are using the Battery Temp Sensor (BTS), on the Classic. You probably could use a good EQ, after a fairly full charge. IMO, EQs should be temp comped -- this is a menu item.
SOC readings, really mean little. SOC is set to 100%, when the Classic goes to Float (on its own, NOT if you force it in the Tweaks menu).
It is the Net Ah, early in the AM, that tells you the amount of Ah removed from the battery. But, if the battery is never getting fully recharged, this number is not so valuable.
Yes, do set Absorb time to six hours, and EA to about 5.4-ish Amps, and observe.
AND, after tomorrow's charge, please take and record SG of all cells.
Your battery bank really needs to get as fully-charged as is possible, and probably hours of EQ.
Thanks for the info, Good Luck, Vic
Quote from: Simonbr on July 04, 2022, 06:51:32 PM
Quote from: boB on July 04, 2022, 05:53:00 PM
I think that you can still get Adobe AIR for the iPhone ?
If so then you can also try My MidNite for monitoring the Classic.
boB
I am willing to try anything, checked to see for Air and i think its already part of Apple products. Can you link your app?
I got mixed up on which was which.....
The "Local App" which runs on an Apple computer, here...
https://www.midnitesolar.com/firmware.php?firmwareProduct_ID=2
The "MY Midnite" doesn't need Adobe Air of course
https://mymidnite2.com/
Quote from: Vic on July 04, 2022, 07:31:23 PM
Quote from: Simonbr on July 04, 2022, 06:41:12 PM
Quote from: Vic on July 04, 2022, 05:35:20 PM
Simon,
How much Distilled Water do your batteries consume, and how often?
Your Abosrb time seems quite long, at five hours, to me.
Yes, check EA, tomorrow.
In the morning, before much charging has occurred, what is the Net Ah value?
I would suggest that you increase the Absorb voltage, considerably.
How much faith do you have in your Refractometer? You could try the Hydrometer, as a comparison, if you believe it to be accurate.
Thanks, Vic
I have not added distilled water to the old or the new batteries at all, they still have good levels.
I thought you had said to increase the absorption time and set the EA to 1.3% of the 420aH of the battery to find out the limits. Doesn't the CC stop at the EA or the abs time, whichever comes first? I figured if I set it to 6 hours and the EA to 5.4a I could monitor tomorrow to see which ends absorption first. Isn't this how it works?
Tonight the SOC was showing 100% but the SG was telling me something else. Usually in the AM I'm still in the 88% area. I will keep track of this tomorrow, and the MyMidnite will now help me with that too.
I do have allot of faith in it, I will try to calibrate it once I get distilled water, but before we came out at camp May 15 this year, I charged all 4 batteries and the SG was all 1.27 to 1.28
currently my settings are
EQ 29.9v
ABS 29.2v
Float 27v
Hi Simon,
Flooded LA batts, that are being charged properly, MUST need make-up distilled water, else, they are being undercharged, period.
I did say to increase the Absorb time, such that you could have enough time to be able to see the EA point, where is ceases diminishing. An absorb of five hours, at 29.2 V, appears to not fully-charging your batts.
I would set Vabs to about 30 V in the AM, tomorrow. AND would generally EQ, at 31 V (t comped) MINIMUM, for now .. perhaps higher ...
Be certain that you are using the Battery Temp Sensor (BTS), on the Classic. You probably could use a good EQ, after a fairly full charge. IMO, EQs should be temp comped -- this is a menu item.
SOC readings, really mean little. SOC is set to 100%, when the Classic goes to Float (on its own, NOT if you force it in the Tweaks menu).
It is the Net Ah, early in the AM, that tells you the amount of Ah removed from the battery. But, if the battery is never getting fully recharged, this number is not so valuable.
Yes, do set Absorb time to six hours, and EA to about 5.4-ish Amps, and observe.
AND, after tomorrow's charge, please take and record SG of all cells.
Your battery bank really needs to get as fully-charged as is possible, and probably hours of EQ.
Thanks for the info, Good Luck, Vic
I do know that SOC and battery V is not very accurate way to measure as they fluctuate, I only use it as a quick dirty guide but they are pointless.
Abs of 30v scares me a little, I had not tested the abs 29.2v yet, I was still on 28.8v. I'm thinking maybe just sticking with he US Battery datasheet for a couple days to see if the SG goes up. abs 2.45v per cell (29.4v).
The 30.6v for EQ does scare me, can this damage my electronics connected to the battery?
I guess at the end of bulk charge, if I check the SG it should of brought it up somewhat, the abs just does the finishing top off?
Quote from: Simonbr on July 04, 2022, 08:01:28 PM
Quote from: Vic on July 04, 2022, 07:31:23 PM
Quote from: Simonbr on July 04, 2022, 06:41:12 PM
Quote from: Vic on July 04, 2022, 05:35:20 PM
Simon,
How much Distilled Water do your batteries consume, and how often?
Your Abosrb time seems quite long, at five hours, to me.
Yes, check EA, tomorrow.
In the morning, before much charging has occurred, what is the Net Ah value?
I would suggest that you increase the Absorb voltage, considerably.
How much faith do you have in your Refractometer? You could try the Hydrometer, as a comparison, if you believe it to be accurate.
Thanks, Vic
I have not added distilled water to the old or the new batteries at all, they still have good levels.
I thought you had said to increase the absorption time and set the EA to 1.3% of the 420aH of the battery to find out the limits. Doesn't the CC stop at the EA or the abs time, whichever comes first? I figured if I set it to 6 hours and the EA to 5.4a I could monitor tomorrow to see which ends absorption first. Isn't this how it works?
Tonight the SOC was showing 100% but the SG was telling me something else. Usually in the AM I'm still in the 88% area. I will keep track of this tomorrow, and the MyMidnite will now help me with that too.
I do have allot of faith in it, I will try to calibrate it once I get distilled water, but before we came out at camp May 15 this year, I charged all 4 batteries and the SG was all 1.27 to 1.28
currently my settings are
EQ 29.9v
ABS 29.2v
Float 27v
Hi Simon,
Flooded LA batts, that are being charged properly, MUST need make-up distilled water, else, they are being undercharged, period.
I did say to increase the Absorb time, such that you could have enough time to be able to see the EA point, where is ceases diminishing. An absorb of five hours, at 29.2 V, appears to not fully-charging your batts.
I would set Vabs to about 30 V in the AM, tomorrow. AND would generally EQ, at 31 V (t comped) MINIMUM, for now .. perhaps higher ...
Be certain that you are using the Battery Temp Sensor (BTS), on the Classic. You probably could use a good EQ, after a fairly full charge. IMO, EQs should be temp comped -- this is a menu item.
SOC readings, really mean little. SOC is set to 100%, when the Classic goes to Float (on its own, NOT if you force it in the Tweaks menu).
It is the Net Ah, early in the AM, that tells you the amount of Ah removed from the battery. But, if the battery is never getting fully recharged, this number is not so valuable.
Yes, do set Absorb time to six hours, and EA to about 5.4-ish Amps, and observe.
AND, after tomorrow's charge, please take and record SG of all cells.
Your battery bank really needs to get as fully-charged as is possible, and probably hours of EQ.
Thanks for the info, Good Luck, Vic
I do know that SOC and battery V is not very accurate way to measure as they fluctuate, I only use it as a quick dirty guide but they are pointless.
Abs of 30v scares me a little, I had not tested the abs 29.2v yet, I was still on 28.8v. I'm thinking maybe just sticking with he US Battery datasheet for a couple days to see if the SG goes up. abs 2.45v per cell (29.4v).
The 30.6v for EQ does scare me, can this damage my electronics connected to the battery?
I guess at the end of bulk charge, if I check the SG it should of brought it up somewhat, the abs just does the finishing top off?
OK, good.
I do not recall when the first two L16 batts first went into service, but thought that it was last season, at the latest.
FLAs that have used NO water, over months and months of use, are not being fully charged.
My thinking that, based on what we can see of your system, from way over here, that it might be time for some remedial action.
Not my system ...
Are you using the MN BTS ?
A system that uses FLA batts, that cannot tolerate 30-ish batt voltage, might, generally be in a bit of trouble, at least in climates that can become a bit coolish.
Good Luck, Vic
Quote from: Vic on July 04, 2022, 05:35:20 PM
OK, good.
I do not recall when the first two L16 batts first went into service, but thought that it was last season, at the latest.
FLAs that have used NO water, over months and months of use, are not being fully charged.
My thinking that, based on what we can see of your system, from way over here, that it might be time for some remedial action.
Not my system ...
Are you using the MN BTS ?
A system that uses FLA batts, that cannot tolerate 30-ish batt voltage, might, generally be in a bit of trouble, at least in climates that can become a bit coolish.
Good Luck, Vic
You are right, in the end if it’s not getting a full charge so the settings are not high enough to charge. Yes one pair last may and the second pair of batteries this may.
What is a MN BTS?
Is 30v generally ok for electronics on a 24v system?
BTS is the Battery Temperature Sensor that came with the Classic and is placed on a battery to know it's temperature.
The Classic uses that temperature and the temp compensation setting to automatically change the charge absorb and float voltage settings higher if it is cold and lower if it gets too hot.
Larry
Quote from: ClassicCrazy on July 04, 2022, 11:23:59 PM
BTS is the Battery Temperature Sensor that came with the Classic and is placed on a battery to know it's temperature.
The Classic uses that temperature and the temp compensation setting to automatically change the charge absorb and float voltage settings higher if it is cold and lower if it gets too hot.
Larry
Ah ok yes i do have the battery temp sensor installed
Simon,
Yes, I have suggested changing several things. And, this approach is not Scientific.
BUT, it is generally not a good thing to allow FLA batteries to sit around in a state of under-charge. This can cause the Sulfates to harden on the plates. This is very difficult to remove, often, really impossible to remove, and that results in a permanent reduction in Capacity.
Yes, IIRC, you have a DC fridge, connected to the battery bank. It is valid to be concerned with its ability of handle and operate at elevated battery voltages. Something, with which, I have NO experience.
If your batteries are significantly under-charged, IMO, you will not approach 1.3-ish percent of Capacity near the end of Abosrb.
Please DO take the SGs of all cells, today, around the end of Absorb, or in Float, just as a check. AND, note diffences twix the older, and newer batts.
Thanks, Vic
Quote from: Vic on July 05, 2022, 11:23:25 AM
Simon,
Yes, I have suggested changing several things. And, this approach is not Scientific.
BUT, it is generally not a good thing to allow FLA batteries to sit around in a state of under-charge. This can cause the Sulfates to harden on the plates. This is very difficult to remove, often, really impossible to remove, and that results in a permanent reduction in Capacity.
Yes, IIRC, you have a DC fridge, connected to the battery bank. It is valid to be concerned with its ability of handle and operate at elevated battery voltages. Something, with which, I have NO experience.
If your batteries are significantly under-charged, IMO, you will not approach 1.3-ish percent of Capacity near the end of Abosrb.
Please DO take the SGs of all cells, today, around the end of Absorb, or in Float, just as a check. AND, note diffences twix the older, and newer batts.
Thanks, Vic
I am not able to do anything today as it is raining and I am not getting much into my CC. Tomorrow is another day!
my fridge is able to use an AC to DC adapter I can always purchase so I can use while doing EQ. Or even better I can use a voltage stabilizer/regulator that works on 24v and regulated voltage so its stable at 24ish instead of 29 to 30 range. Found one on amazon ->
https://www.amazon.ca/Cocar-Voltage-Regulator-Stabilizer-Protector/dp/B084Z68JN9/ref=sr_1_4?crid=ZGMM01UXNUYA&keywords=24v+stabilizer&qid=1657047490&s=electronics&sprefix=24v+stabilizer%2Celectronics%2C84&sr=1-4
https://www.amazon.ca/EKYLIN-Stabilizer-Protector-Regulator-DC10-36V/dp/B071GBMSD3
Hi Simon,
What is the nature of your 24 V Fridge, does it have a compressor? Or, is it a Propane/AC/DC unit ... or ?? If it has a compressor, it might have a considerable motor starting surge. You may have already checked the specs on the fridge.
FWIW, Vic
Quote from: Vic on July 05, 2022, 06:44:34 PM
Hi Simon,
What is the nature of your 24 V Fridge, does it have a compressor? Or, is it a Propane/AC/DC unit ... or ?? If it has a compressor, it might have a considerable motor starting surge. You may have already checked the specs on the fridge.
FWIW, Vic
Its a DC fridge that works on 12v or 24v, compressor. They also sell a power adapter thats 24v 5a but its almost $200.
https://uniqueappliances.com/product/off-grid-13-cu-ft-solar-powered-dc-refrigerator/
I looked up the fridge Vic
Power Consumption: 62 W on 12V/24V - Average Run Current: 5.2A on 12V & 2.6A on 24V Fridge Temp. Range: -4 C to +10°C Freezer Temp. Range: -15°C to +6°
I don't think the surge on some of the newer DC compressors is too bad and it won't be more than the 5 amp power supply they recommend for it.
Some of the newer DC compressors have speed control so the surge can be controlled to minimum at startup I think.
At least the danfoss compressors I was just looking up do .
Larry
Quote from: Vic on July 05, 2022, 11:23:25 AM
Simon,
Yes, I have suggested changing several things. And, this approach is not Scientific.
BUT, it is generally not a good thing to allow FLA batteries to sit around in a state of under-charge. This can cause the Sulfates to harden on the plates. This is very difficult to remove, often, really impossible to remove, and that results in a permanent reduction in Capacity.
Yes, IIRC, you have a DC fridge, connected to the battery bank. It is valid to be concerned with its ability of handle and operate at elevated battery voltages. Something, with which, I have NO experience.
If your batteries are significantly under-charged, IMO, you will not approach 1.3-ish percent of Capacity near the end of Abosrb.
Please DO take the SGs of all cells, today, around the end of Absorb, or in Float, just as a check. AND, note diffences twix the older, and newer batts.
Thanks, Vic
Good Morning Vic,
I decided to go to camp last night at 10:30ish pm to start my generator over night to charge my batteries. Using the MyMidnite I was able to tell the batteries were low and I was worried they would die overnight. My inverter charger did the charging (Aims 24v 3k, 29.6v Boost and 13.8v float). They were getting a steady 25ish amp all night.
This morning at about 10am I went to camp (just as my generator started to run out of gas) and I checked the batteries, it seems that the inverter/charger did a not so bad job to get them back into the normal range.
I've included a photo of my battery bank and the SG, starting at the left moving towards the right, and starting from the top chamber to the bottom here are the levels. The 2 left ones are the old and two right are the new batteries.
Bat1: 1.27, 1.27, 1.27
Bat2: 1.27, 1.27, 1.265
Bat3: 1.24, 1.24, 1.25
Bat4: 1.24, 1.25, 1.25
I'm also including a screen shot of the MM2 from last night up to now.
Questions
1. My inverter charger was still showing it was doing abs charge but once I stopped the generator the CC went right into float mode instead of trying to do an abs charge. Is there a way to force the CC back into abs so it could do the final charging?
2. From the MM2 chart it looks like the charging was at 4.4a before I stopped the generator and since it was not quite complete, do you think I should lower my EA from 5.4a to something lower like 4a?
3. I have the EA on the CC set to shunt instead of the classic, is this the correct configuration I am looking for?
4. Rebulk is set to <8.0, what should this be for 24v?
What charge setpoints did you have in your inverter charger ?
If you get a good sunny day after you did that generator / inverter charging then the Classic should finish it off.
Yes you have the shunt setting correct set to shunt instead of internal .
Larry
Quote from: ClassicCrazy on July 06, 2022, 11:03:56 AM
What charge setpoints did you have in your inverter charger ?
If you get a good sunny day after you did that generator / inverter charging then the Classic should finish it off.
Yes you have the shunt setting correct set to shunt instead of internal .
Larry
The setpoints are 29.6v Boost and 13.8v float (included photo), you cant change them unless you change the type of battery your using. It is rated to charge at 30a +-5% using a small trim pot. I had it tuned just bellow where the generator was working hard, as not to have it work harder burn all the gas quickly.
Right now I checked MM2 and the CC is still in float and the Wb is only seeing around 0.7a (image included). This will not complete the charge at this rate. How long does the float charge last and is there a way to force it out back into bulk/abs? Oh and the sun is out and no clouds today.
On the local status app you can force it into absorb but it will probably go very quickly back to float anyway.
What you probably want to do is start an equalize cycle. You can set that for whatever voltage you want and for as long as you want.
Like Vic mentioned - with new batteries it takes some discharge cycles to get them to full capacity . So I would just use the batteries for and let them do some cycles, keep your regular absorb settings. Keep an eye on the SG compared to the SOC . When you get it all tweaked right you will find it is pretty good indicator of the batteries charge . You tweak it by adjusting the efficiency setting for SOC as well as figuring out the ending amps .
What you want to put on your mymidnite graph is amp hours from full - I think it has that too.
So watch the graph as it charges up and counts amps back towards zero . It should get to 0 plus some extra amps in for the efficiency - at the ending amps point and then go to float.
Nice thing about mymidnite graph is you can drag the mouse across the graph slowly in the history and watch the battery voltage, soc, whizbang amps, as it gets to either your ending amps or absorb time which ever comes first. Usually the ending amps is always going to come first. You confirm the ending amps and 100% full battery with your SG readings when you get everything tweaked .
Larry
there is also some info here on ending amps
http://www.midniteftp.com/support/kb/faq.php?cid=1
Larry
Simon, am in the middle of things, here.
Your battery bank DOES need an EQ, later, thanks, Vic
Quote from: Vic on July 06, 2022, 12:47:13 PM
Simon, am in the middle of things, here.
Your battery bank DOES need an EQ, later, thanks, Vic
Heading to camp now to do an EQ. I will use 30.5v and check the temp comped settings, does it have to be set at something specific or is it just turned on and off? I havent looked at the setting yet.
is 2 hours enough?
yes temp comp for equalize is just set on or off . On MNGP you will see it on the Charge / Temp Comp settings and it will say EQ Comp'd yes or no
Larry
Quote from: Simonbr on July 06, 2022, 10:52:20 AM
Quote from: Vic on July 05, 2022, 11:23:25 AM
Simon,
Yes, I have suggested changing several things. And, this approach is not Scientific.
BUT, it is generally not a good thing to allow FLA batteries to sit around in a state of under-charge. This can cause the Sulfates to harden on the plates. This is very difficult to remove, often, really impossible to remove, and that results in a permanent reduction in Capacity.
Yes, IIRC, you have a DC fridge, connected to the battery bank. It is valid to be concerned with its ability of handle and operate at elevated battery voltages. Something, with which, I have NO experience.
If your batteries are significantly under-charged, IMO, you will not approach 1.3-ish percent of Capacity near the end of Abosrb.
Please DO take the SGs of all cells, today, around the end of Absorb, or in Float, just as a check. AND, note diffences twix the older, and newer batts.
Thanks, Vic
Good Morning Vic,
I decided to go to camp last night at 10:30ish pm to start my generator over night to charge my batteries. Using the MyMidnite I was able to tell the batteries were low and I was worried they would die overnight. My inverter charger did the charging (Aims 24v 3k, 29.6v Boost and 13.8v float). They were getting a steady 25ish amp all night.
This morning at about 10am I went to camp (just as my generator started to run out of gas) and I checked the batteries, it seems that the inverter/charger did a not so bad job to get them back into the normal range.
I've included a photo of my battery bank and the SG, starting at the left moving towards the right, and starting from the top chamber to the bottom here are the levels. The 2 left ones are the old and two right are the new batteries.
Bat1: 1.27, 1.27, 1.27
Bat2: 1.27, 1.27, 1.265
Bat3: 1.24, 1.24, 1.25
Bat4: 1.24, 1.25, 1.25
I'm also including a screen shot of the MM2 from last night up to now.
Questions
1. My inverter charger was still showing it was doing abs charge but once I stopped the generator the CC went right into float mode instead of trying to do an abs charge. Is there a way to force the CC back into abs so it could do the final charging?
2. From the MM2 chart it looks like the charging was at 4.4a before I stopped the generator and since it was not quite complete, do you think I should lower my EA from 5.4a to something lower like 4a?
3. I have the EA on the CC set to shunt instead of the classic, is this the correct configuration I am looking for?
4. Rebulk is set to <8.0, what should this be for 24v?
Hi Simon,
Great that you ran the genset last night. SGs looking pretty good, but, IMO, you should still EQ the bank.
Perhaps, the Classic woke up when the battery was being charged, and that, somehow caused it to avoid doing its own charge, dunno.
In the Tweaks>More>Force Absorb, Up arrow (IIRC), should get the Classic to start a charge cycle from Bulk.
I did not look at your MM2 screen shot, the Wb charge current depends on the charge voltage at that time, look at the bat volts on MM2. Why not EQ the battery bank, and leave EA as it is for now, anyway. You can measure SGs during EQ, and stop it when the SGs of the lowest cells do not change, measured at about 30 minute intervals. EQ DOES increase the battery temperature. So, watch the bat temp (you can use the Temps menu on the MNGP. Would not let the temp go much above 35C),
ReBulk will cause a new charge cycle, when the battery V diminishes to that voltage (possibly, there might be a bit of a delay, before ReBulk starts). Have never used it. Folks with smallish batts, and those with spotty WX condx, etc may find it useful, but to me, would like to get the batts charged on most days, and we have enuf capacity, that a second charge is never needed, every charge of the batts, counts against the life-span.
There may be other obvious reasons to rebulk, but have never needed it.
Later, thanks for the reports, Vic
Quote from: Vic on July 06, 2022, 03:12:27 PM
Quote from: Simonbr on July 06, 2022, 10:52:20 AM
Quote from: Vic on July 05, 2022, 11:23:25 AM
Simon,
Yes, I have suggested changing several things. And, this approach is not Scientific.
BUT, it is generally not a good thing to allow FLA batteries to sit around in a state of under-charge. This can cause the Sulfates to harden on the plates. This is very difficult to remove, often, really impossible to remove, and that results in a permanent reduction in Capacity.
Yes, IIRC, you have a DC fridge, connected to the battery bank. It is valid to be concerned with its ability of handle and operate at elevated battery voltages. Something, with which, I have NO experience.
If your batteries are significantly under-charged, IMO, you will not approach 1.3-ish percent of Capacity near the end of Abosrb.
Please DO take the SGs of all cells, today, around the end of Absorb, or in Float, just as a check. AND, note diffences twix the older, and newer batts.
Thanks, Vic
Good Morning Vic,
I decided to go to camp last night at 10:30ish pm to start my generator over night to charge my batteries. Using the MyMidnite I was able to tell the batteries were low and I was worried they would die overnight. My inverter charger did the charging (Aims 24v 3k, 29.6v Boost and 13.8v float). They were getting a steady 25ish amp all night.
This morning at about 10am I went to camp (just as my generator started to run out of gas) and I checked the batteries, it seems that the inverter/charger did a not so bad job to get them back into the normal range.
I've included a photo of my battery bank and the SG, starting at the left moving towards the right, and starting from the top chamber to the bottom here are the levels. The 2 left ones are the old and two right are the new batteries.
Bat1: 1.27, 1.27, 1.27
Bat2: 1.27, 1.27, 1.265
Bat3: 1.24, 1.24, 1.25
Bat4: 1.24, 1.25, 1.25
I'm also including a screen shot of the MM2 from last night up to now.
Questions
1. My inverter charger was still showing it was doing abs charge but once I stopped the generator the CC went right into float mode instead of trying to do an abs charge. Is there a way to force the CC back into abs so it could do the final charging?
2. From the MM2 chart it looks like the charging was at 4.4a before I stopped the generator and since it was not quite complete, do you think I should lower my EA from 5.4a to something lower like 4a?
3. I have the EA on the CC set to shunt instead of the classic, is this the correct configuration I am looking for?
4. Rebulk is set to <8.0, what should this be for 24v?
Hi Simon,
Great that you ran the genset last night. SGs looking pretty good, but, IMO, you should still EQ the bank.
Perhaps, the Classic woke up when the battery was being charged, and that, somehow caused it to avoid doing its own charge, dunno.
In the Tweaks>More>Force Absorb, Up arrow (IIRC), should get the Classic to start a charge cycle from Bulk.
I did not look at your MM2 screen shot, the Wb charge current depends on the charge voltage at that time, look at the bat volts on MM2. Why not EQ the battery bank, and leave EA as it is for now, anyway. You can measure SGs during EQ, and stop it when the SGs of the lowest cells do not change, measured at about 30 minute intervals. EQ DOES increase the battery temperature. So, watch the bat temp (you can use the Temps menu on the MNGP. Would not let the temp go much above 35C),
ReBulk will cause a new charge cycle, when the battery V diminishes to that voltage (possibly, there might be a bit of a delay, before ReBulk starts). Have never used it. Folks with smallish batts, and those with spotty WX condx, etc may find it useful, but to me, would like to get the batts charged on most days, and we have enuf capacity, that a second charge is never needed, every charge of the batts, counts against the life-span.
There may be other obvious reasons to rebulk, but have never needed it.
Later, thanks for the reports, Vic
I have started the EQ for 2 hours at 30.6v and left all other options as is. I will verify the SG once its complete to see how things are going from there. Will post results later.
OK, Simon, will stay tuned for your reports. Vic
Quote from: Vic on July 06, 2022, 03:39:19 PM
OK, Simon, will stay tuned for your reports. Vic
Good news and bad news!
Good news, my fridge didn't kill over on the 31.6v,
Bad news my EQ stopped at 1h 20 minutes because clouds moved in and its later in the day
Good news, just that amount of time for the EQ did rise up the levels by about 0.01 for the lower cells
So I hope to be able to do a EQ tomorrow again (maybe a full one) to bring everything back up to normal levels.
If you can see the name and model number of the compressor in the fridge - then you can probably look it up to see the voltage limits or contact manufacturer and ask them for that info.
Larry
Just finished looking at the fridge's Spec Sheet, and Manual.
Did not know it, but it appears to be able to run on a 250 Watt PV module. There was no mention of any increased DC current at start-up ...
Very complete manual. It looks like an efficient fridge.
Simon,
Thanks for the EQ report. Glad that the fridge did not croak, from excessive Vin.
For off-grid systems, it is fairly common, to run out of sun, for one reason, or another, interrupting an EQ. That is why, Tomorrow, was invented!
Of course, as you might be doing more frequent EQs and charging at somewhat higher voltages, please DO keep an eye of electrolyte levels, and, of course, keep some Distilled Water on hand.
Thanks for the upate. Please do let us know how you are doing. Vic