Up and running

Started by Highflyer, August 04, 2014, 02:40:28 PM

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Highflyer

I have my white Kid up and running making over 27 amps!!  I have it loaded with FW 1742, and I am using the WBJr and the shunt for better control.  I have a 140mm fan cooling the whole setup.  After just over an hour, the controller and inverter were no more than 2 degrees warmer than ambient air temperature. 

It is really cool to see the Kid "notice" a load and adjust its output!!  Man I like this controller!!




I am using two 230 watt panels so far, but I am going to add a third to make more power during cloudy periods and earlier and later each day.

Here is the temporary setup.



It is also clear to me that I need to go 24 or 48 volts!! 
Brian

The one thing is the one thing

ClassicCrazy

I have been trying to brainstorm a do it yourself solar mounting system - thanks for the idea ! ha ha .  I am like you - get stuff working first and then work out the details later. 

Don't you have those two panels in series ?  Or do you mean you want to go 24 or 48 volt with your batteries ?
system 1
Classic 150 , 5s3p  Kyocera 135watt , 12s Soneil 2v 540amp lead crystal for 24v pack , Outback 3524 inverter
system 2
 5s 135w Kyocero , 3s3p 270w Kyocera  to Classic 150 ,   8s Kyocera 225w to Hawkes Bay Jakiper 48v 15kwh LiFePO4 , Outback VFX 3648 inverter
system 3
KID / Brat portable

Highflyer

Do not mock the kitty litter containers, they don't like that....:)

I plan on "flying" the panels but I need to make the frame and finish the dirt work in that area first.  I have a two axis tracking system to use when I go permeant placement, but for now, this works well enough.

I mean for the batteries to be set up in 24 or 48 volts.  I'm already at 27 amps in a 12 volts deep cycle setup, and I could use more power.... Hint Hint......

Of course, that means getting another inverter......or two....
Brian

The one thing is the one thing

Kent3

Hi Brian
Can you share with us at what voltage you see going to the battery at the 27 amp rate?
Thanks
Kent
6 - 150 Watt PV, 210Ah /24V FLA Battery Bank, 2-MN-Kid CC w/WBjr and 2-MNBTS, eu2000i, eu3000i,  Samlex 1000 Watt PSW, 1000 Watt MSW,    Linux user

Highflyer

Kent,

It shows 13.5V     363W

B
Brian

The one thing is the one thing

Free Energy Freak

Quote from: Highflyer on August 04, 2014, 02:40:28 PMI have a 140mm fan cooling the whole setup.  After just over an hour, the controller and inverter were no more than 2 degrees warmer than ambient air temperature.

Did you cut a hole in the cabinet and mount the fan? Or, is it just internally set to blow on the controller and / or inverter? Do you have another image of the inside set up that you could / would share?
400 watts, MS ProStar 30m, 12vdc @ 240 AH - Internal lighting & 12v Shurflo pump at farm.
270 watts, Beta Kid, 12vdc @ 120AH - Back up internet, computer, during weekly power cuts.
100 watts, MS Sunlight 10a, 12vdc @ 50AH - Exterior LED perimeter lighting at farm.

Highflyer

FEF,
I did cut three holes in the case.  One for the fan 140mm and two on the other side, 3.5 inches square.  This allows me to move air over the equipment and the batteries.

I do have other pics, I'll post a few more in the morning.
Brian

The one thing is the one thing

Free Energy Freak

Thanks, man. I look forward to viewing them.
400 watts, MS ProStar 30m, 12vdc @ 240 AH - Internal lighting & 12v Shurflo pump at farm.
270 watts, Beta Kid, 12vdc @ 120AH - Back up internet, computer, during weekly power cuts.
100 watts, MS Sunlight 10a, 12vdc @ 50AH - Exterior LED perimeter lighting at farm.

Highflyer

Okay, here are a few pics from the build.


Here is my placement.  Notice the square holes on the right, they are the exhaust ports.  The high one moves air over the Kid and inverter, and the lower hole moves air over the batteries.



Here is how I set up the shunt for the WBJr.



And here is my temporary wiring.  I used 8 gauge for the battery cables because that is all I had at the time (i'll go 6 or 4 gauge in the future), and 10 gauge for the Kids wiring.



I'll be adding fuses and CB's for the solar panels and loads in the near future.  Also, I'll be adding power ports to the outside of the box as well.
Brian

The one thing is the one thing

Free Energy Freak

Thanks man! Truly appreciate the photos.
400 watts, MS ProStar 30m, 12vdc @ 240 AH - Internal lighting & 12v Shurflo pump at farm.
270 watts, Beta Kid, 12vdc @ 120AH - Back up internet, computer, during weekly power cuts.
100 watts, MS Sunlight 10a, 12vdc @ 50AH - Exterior LED perimeter lighting at farm.

TomW

#10
Nice bit of fab work on that box. Always liked tread plate!

Being the negative Nelly I am  I would be concerned with the electronics in with the battery and possible corrosive or explosive gases from the battery.

As long as the ventilation works it probably is no big deal.

Old school thinking I suppose but old habits are hard to break.

Tom
Do NOT mistake me for any kind of "expert".

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)


24 Trina 310 watt modules, SMA SunnyBoy 7.7 KW Grid Tie inverter.

I thought that they were angels, but much to my surprise, We climbed aboard their starship and headed for the skies

Free Energy Freak

First, I like the diamond plate aluminum as well. It's always a clean finished look. Not to mention, it makes for light products.

Second, I was a bit apprehensive about the ventilation as well.

I had considered doing something similar, but wasn't nearly as brave. With his ventilation fan running - I assume constantly, I don't see a problem. Fresh air is always circulated within the box.

I have seen another, similar set up using a MorningStar controller for dock / pier lighting.
400 watts, MS ProStar 30m, 12vdc @ 240 AH - Internal lighting & 12v Shurflo pump at farm.
270 watts, Beta Kid, 12vdc @ 120AH - Back up internet, computer, during weekly power cuts.
100 watts, MS Sunlight 10a, 12vdc @ 50AH - Exterior LED perimeter lighting at farm.

Highflyer

Tom,
There is going to be a "lid" for the battery portion of this box.   This should separate the battery gases from the electronics with positive air pressure using half of the air flow.  I'll learn as I go.  The Aluminum was fun to learn how to weld.  It does look good and is lighter to move. 

FEF,
The fan does run 24/7.  It has very low draw and is worth the cost to keep fresh air moving all the time. If I find I am running into trouble, I'll re-engineer.
Brian

The one thing is the one thing

Westbranch

The off gassing should stop within a few hours of sundown. A timer  would possibly save on overnight draw
KID FW1811 560W >C&D 24V 900Ah AGM
CL150 29032 FW V.2126-NW2097-GP2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3Px4s 140W > 24V 900Ah AGM,
2 Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr, NetGr DS104Hub
Cotek ST1500 Inv  want a 24V  ROSIE Inverter
OmniCharge3024  Eu1/2/3000iGens
West Chilcotin 1680+W to come

TomW

Quote from: Westbranch on August 10, 2014, 02:28:51 PM
The off gassing should stop within a few hours of sundown. A timer  would possibly save on overnight draw

Back when I had a nominal 24 V array feeding my 24 V  batteries through a BZ controller I just ran the fan from  the solar input. The fan ran any time there was incoming power.  No wasted power running when there was no charging and possible gassing. Seemed the ticket at the time. Perhaps flooded LA batteries out gas under load too but I am not sure. I never noticed gassing after charge was removed?

That was a long time ago with a completely different system than it has evolved into now.

Tom
Do NOT mistake me for any kind of "expert".

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)


24 Trina 310 watt modules, SMA SunnyBoy 7.7 KW Grid Tie inverter.

I thought that they were angels, but much to my surprise, We climbed aboard their starship and headed for the skies