I returned to the cabin for Easter and went to check my 2 Classic 150's,
#1 was fine and happily in Float by noon
#2 however was not so happy as it has shut down , Mode = OFF showed on MNGP and the bottom LED was Blinking Orange.
Jeez, no internet available and didn't bring a laptop..... :o :o and a flat battery to boot
Off to the closest neighbour (5 miles) with internet , On Line manual states Blinking Orange indicates that there was an Over Amperage event ???
I am puzzled as there are ONLY 2 140W (12V 8A) panels in series and the CC Output was set to 90A and the Input set to 55A.
I reset the mode to ON and reset the battery charge parameters, it had defaulted to 12 volt settings.
Appears to be functioning OK for now.
Cl serial number # 647, sorry could not remember the key strokes to retrieve the FW version.
Any ideas? stumped here
That blinking LED could mean it has either reached the current limit (unlikely with your small array)
or it has gotten (or thinks it has) gotten too hot.
Maybe it just thinks it is hot ? Check the FET and PCB temperature readings.
Another thing that might (can't remember off the top) to make the orange LED come on is
over-voltage on the PV input which is also probably unlikely.
Check the PV voltage and temperature readings just for good measure.
boB
Westbranch
Are you sure its the amber LED blinking? The bottom one? I can not say I have ever seen that one blink.
RYan
thanks boB, I will try to do a temp log for a few hours next visit.
Ryan, for sure it was the bottom LED, Amber (or Orange) at the bottom of the MNGP, left side.
Forgot to add:
that the CL647 is a refurbished unit;
All 3 LEDs inside were in Blinky mode;
the CC had reset out of Solar mode as well (forget to what though, P&O?), corrected that too.
Ambient temps in basement were well below freezing all winter! -5C to -30C
Did you check the Reason For Resting ?
ReasonForResting = 27 is one in earlier Classics that can cause the MODE to
turn OFF... but yours may be a bit too old for that if serial number 647....
Can't remember when we added R132.
In fact, check this drawing and see if this resistor is in your Classic.
http://fusion.midnitesolar.com/Classic_R132.jpg
Another reason that the Classic can turn the mode to OFF is if the wind graph is
bogus and has a current step that is higher than 99 amps. This could happen
even if your Classic was not in wind mode. BUT, your Classic came back on so
that is probably NOT your problem.
Please check for R132. I don't know why the LED would be ON or blinking though
for that reason but it could make its mode go to off.
boB
Quote from: boB on April 21, 2014, 08:56:43 PM
Did you check the Reason For Resting ?
ReasonForResting = 27 is one in earlier Classics that can cause the MODE to
turn OFF... but yours may be a bit too old for that if serial number 647....
boB
boB, the only info was the PV and Battery voltages/amps and MODE = OFF.
There was no REASON showing on the main screen, so is there a way to 'drill deeper' on that machine to find the REASON?
Oh, and the 'internal Leds were cycling 1on, then 2 on and then 3 on, and then repeat (BLINKY mode?)
Quote from: boB on April 21, 2014, 08:56:43 PM
In fact, check this drawing and see if this resistor is in your Classic.
http://fusion.midnitesolar.com/Classic_R132.jpg
Please check for R132. I don't know why the LED would be ON or blinking though
for that reason but it could make its mode go to off.
boB
boB, re the presence or not of that R123: If the pins are not showing, the resistor is absent?
In the pic, it looks to me that there are 2 soldered pins, right?
thanks.
Eric
Quote from: Westbranch on April 22, 2014, 02:10:57 PM
There was no REASON showing on the main screen, so is there a way to 'drill deeper' on that machine to find the REASON?
To enter the reason for resting screen from main status...
Hold down left arrow key and then press the enter key
thanks RH, I remember reading something about that before, just old-timers brain prevents it floating to the top....
Do you know how to get to FW version etc.?
Quote from: Westbranch on April 22, 2014, 02:53:36 PM
... Do you know how to get to FW version etc.?
WB, just keep tapping the Status button, the page for FW version(s) is about the seventh down, or so. There are other ways ... believe that it is also displayed on App.
Vic
thanks Vic, :) I don't have a functioning laptop right now :( so I cant use the Local App.
I should now be able to get the needed details to help solve this one.
Hope to be back out next weekend and finish a bulk gen charge. Some birthday present! :(
And, WB,
RH John is correct about the RFR. There MIGHT be a distinction between "pressing", and tapping the Enter button. In the past, boB has mentioned "tapping" Enter. It is possible that if one held the Enter button for too long that it might change the state of the Classic (?).
Here is a Thread regarding RFR -- Reply #1 from boB explains the page that contains the RFR number:
http://www.midniteforum.com/index.php?topic=519.0
FWIW Is your off-grid site with the subject Classic prone to Spring lightning incidents? And, do you recall updating the FW in this Classic after you received it? The Refurbed Classic here had the current Production FW as of the time it left MN, after the repair. Good Luck, Happy Birthday! Vic
thanks Vic.
Quote from: boB on March 24, 2012, 07:46:06 PM
from the main status menu, HOLD down the LEFT ARROW button and TAP the ENTER key.
You will see a screen with some numbers on it with IN on the left and OUT on the right. What you want to take note of is the number at the MIDDLE-TOP of the screen. That number will give an idea of why it went to resting.
That number will always be active and represent the last time it went to resting. i.e., the number will not get erased if you don't look at it right away.
boB
Right from what boB and RH said and your comments, I should be able to retrieve something.
I also found boB's list of Reasons via a search for ReasonforResting" here
http://midniteforum.com/index.php?topic=1728.msg15750#msg15750
Re lightning, no we do not get much. I would have expected both Classics to have been affected as my small maintenance arrays are on the S wall and within 1 foot of each other and the wires to both Classics are closer than that. Both banks sit side by each ~ 1 foot apart, I immediately thought of that potential but after a short self talk dismissed it , if it hit one, the other would have been hit AFAICS
NO lighting protection installed so far, SPDs in a box at the ready...
YUP, officially an old fart now... what the heck, its the new 45 as my wife tells me before reminding me to slow down...
cheers.
Quote from: Westbranch on April 22, 2014, 05:01:47 PM
YUP, officially an old fart now... what the heck, its the new 45 as my wife tells me before reminding me to slow down...
cheers.
What ? 45 ? ;D
dP dP .d888888 888888ba 888888ba dP dP
88 88 d8' 88 88 `8b 88 `8b Y8. .8P
88aaaaa88a 88aaaaa88a a88aaaa8P' a88aaaa8P' Y8aa8P
88 88 88 88 88 88 88
88 88 88 88 88 88 88
dP dP 88 88 dP dP
888888ba dP 888888ba d888888P dP dP 888888ba .d888888 dP dP dP
88 `8b 88 88 `8b 88 88 88 88 `8b d8' 88 Y8. .8P 88
a88aaaa8P' 88 a88aaaa8P' 88 88aaaaa88a 88 88 88aaaaa88a Y8aa8P 88
88 `8b. 88 88 `8b. 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 dP
88 .88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 .8P 88 88 88
88888888P dP dP dP dP dP dP 8888888P 88 88 dP oo
Tks boB... 65 is the new 45, ya that expression was found in Zoomer (Canadian) Magazine by SWMBO and she keeps reminding me SHE isn't there just yet!
But 65 (decimal) is 41 (hexadecimal).
So, when possible, tell your age in hex rather than decimal.
boB
Hi boB, re Temps, were you after current temps? or is there a historical listing?
Quote from: Westbranch on April 29, 2014, 09:46:19 PM
Hi boB, re Temps, were you after current temps? or is there a historical listing?
If this was regarding the yellow LED, probably the temperatures read at that time would be great.
PCB temp and FET temp.
Sorry, did not read them at the discovery of shutdown...
BTW the fans have not come on AFAIK except at powerup/startup. Basement is a cool 8*C pretty much full time till summer heat starts
Quote from: Westbranch on April 30, 2014, 11:35:35 AM
Sorry, did not read them at the discovery of shutdown...
BTW the fans have not come on AFAIK except at powerup/startup. Basement is a cool 8*C pretty much full time till summer heat starts
You can read the Hi FET temp history in the Daily Logs, but not the PCB Temp.
FWIW, one Classic 150 here also went to rest, Mode = Off.
This occurred while this Classic was in Absorb, delivering about 20 CC Amp (about half way through Absorb in time), WHILE I was navigating from the Main Status page to the WBjr status page. Heard the input relay open, went back to the main status page, saw Classic resting, mode off.
RFR was 104. Looked like the Classic went through at least part of a boot phase, with the LEDs inside the front vent were swept, and, IIRC, the Amber LED on the front left, believe the Limit LED went on.
48 V system, String Vmp = 106 V
Classic 3677 FW 1772
MNGP FW 1608
The ambient temp was about 64 F. Vin was probably about 108 - 110 V.
Did not look at any of the Classic temps
Have never seen this in any Classic here.
Should UD the MNGP FW at the least ... Thanks, Vic
Quote from: Vic on May 01, 2014, 04:32:27 PM
FWIW, one Classic 150 here also went to rest, Mode = Off.
This occurred while this Classic was in Absorb, delivering about 20 CC Amp (about half way through Absorb in time), WHILE I was navigating from the Main Status page to the WBjr status page. Heard the input relay open, went back to the main status page, saw Classic resting, mode off.
RFR was 104. Looked like the Classic went through at least part of a boot phase, with the LEDs inside the front vent were swept, and, IIRC, the Amber LED on the front left, believe the Limit LED went on.
48 V system, String Vmp = 106 V
Classic 3677 FW 1772
MNGP FW 1608
The ambient temp was about 64 F. Vin was probably about 118 V.
Did not look at any of the Classic temps
Have never seen this in any Classic here.
Should UD the MNGP FW at the least ... Thanks, Vic
Vic.. the current beta FW has updates for Classic, MNGP, & Network that seem to be pretty stable here. Classic 1849 4/21/14, MNGP 1821 4/14/14, Network 1839
boB has been working hard to resolve a lot of the 104 Watch Dog Timer reset.
Hi John,
Yea, have little to loose in doing updates to the Classic and MNGP ... should have mentioned that I have not ever used the Local App.
Had followed much of the conversation about Resting events, but somehow I had missed that these events were Mode Off events. Realize that if the Classic is Resting, it is not delivering power at that time, but had FELT that the Classic might/probably would recover on its own, at least, in time.
Mode Off means to me that the Classic has no mechanism to recover to Mode ON, on its own, requiring manual intervention.
The system mentioned above is at a residence location, and is usually attended, and therefore, there is a good chance of a human intervening, usually with no more than three or four days delay.
Anyway, will probably do FW UDs in the next few days, thanks for the guidance. Vic
Vic the HI FET temp is found in the Classic LOG menu under Daily so you can go back in time to see a historical view for each day. No need for the local app.
Hi John,
Saw that you mentioned that FET Temp is avail in the Log earlier in this Thread ... expect that this was not the issue. The A/C in that power room was on MAX, and the temp there was 64 F ... and the Turbo Fan just never runs.
The Vin on this system is a bit high, so CCs run a bit warmer than most.
Will try to look at the Log to see ... customarily, the FETs are not so hot.
Thanks again. Vic
At peak bulk I see my FET temp around 45-46 C with the Classic pushing around 50A.
Andrew, my question about the PC recognizing a 'new device' has been connected to the PC seems to have got missed in the other chatter...
I got to step 13 in the FW install instructions, and the PC does not 'ding dong' and say ' New device or whatever' is connected... it just does not 'see' the classic connection at all.
Any ideas as to what I can check?
tks
Quote from: Westbranch on May 04, 2014, 11:40:04 PM
Andrew, my question about the PC recognizing a 'new device' has been connected to the PC seems to have got missed in the other chatter...
I got to step 13 in the FW install instructions, and the PC does not 'ding dong' and say ' New device or whatever' is connected... it just does not 'see' the classic connection at all.
Any ideas as to what I can check?
tks
If you have done firmware updates with this PC before the driver is already installed and you shouldn't see this step. Only happens with a new install. I just go to step 28. If you have never install the firmware updater on this PC then you might want to try another USB cable from the Classic to the PC.
Hi John, this is the first time through the process's of either FW update or LA use.
The USB cable is the one supplied by MN and I think is > 2 feet (it is still partially coiled/tied for neatness). I got the same 'no response' from both classics, separate cables, so I did not suspect the cables. Bad install of GUI?
WB, what is your OS again ?
Windoze ? *nix ? etc ?
W7 Starter, on a Asus Eee net book
Since my Netbook crashed I have been reloading everything but the kitchen sink, and it is a slow process as anyone that has done it will know.
Last night I read something on the screen about Windows DEFENDER, WHAT? I thought that was turned off..... had to snoop and found it under Control Panel, search for Defender, Voila!
There are about 5 places to turn it off, especially in the last category... turned them all off and that change sped up the entire machine. Right from boot up and on.. It was causing an entire slowdown of the machine due to a conflict I suspect.
Now I am wondering if it has something to do with the Netbook NOT seeing the Classics over USB?
Thoughts anyone?
Quote from: Westbranch on May 07, 2014, 12:03:25 PM
Since my Netbook crashed I have been reloading everything but the kitchen sink, and it is a slow process as anyone that has done it will know.
Last night I read something on the screen about Windows DEFENDER, WHAT? I thought that was turned off..... had to snoop and found it under Control Panel, search for Defender, Voila!
There are about 5 places to turn it off, especially in the last category... turned them all off and that change sped up the entire machine. Right from boot up and on.. It was causing an entire slowdown of the machine due to a conflict I suspect.
Now I am wondering if it has something to do with the Netbook NOT seeing the Classics over USB?
Thoughts anyone?
A slow computer might mess up the Classic and USB. Not sure though. Give it a try and let us know...
It has been sworn to me that the Microsoft anti-virus stuff does not slow down the machine.
I wonder what the heck was going on with you ? But I don't think I have windows defender on or installed... Just the virus, spyware and firewall enabled in the Action Center, also under the control panel in windows.
Windows defender may be something entirely different and capable of slowing down the puter.
I went to see what I could get for a shorter USB cable. Then I realized that I was not sure about which small USB I will need for the Classic...
If it fits I have a 3 foot cable for my Nikon camera downloads too that I know is fully functional
Andrew, boB, Ryan can some one tell me what the small USB designation is? Micro , Mini, , A , B ???
ADD: ps the CC's are a 3 hr drive away, and in use, so no cable here to check...
the classic uses Mini USB
Ryan, is that min A or B?
(//)
A and B is not Mini or Micro.
The standard USB like the computer has is A, The square one the printer takes is B and the Mini is what the Classic has and the Micro is what the new cell phones use. That is the explanation I got from the engineers anyhow
Hm did not see your document. Now I have no clue at all.
I can only say it is the next to smallest USB plug I have ever played with.
Hi Ryan.
Like the size for a cell phone ? or the next size up.
here is some info from WIKI
The Mini-A and Mini-B plugs are approximately 3 by 7 mm.
The micro-USB plugs have a similar width and approximately half the thickness, enabling their integration into thinner portable devices.
The micro-A connector is 6.85 by 1.8 mm with a maximum overmold size of 11.7 by 8.5 mm. The micro-B connector is 6.85 by 1.8 mm with a maximum overmold size of 10.6 by 8.5 mm
Width 12 mm (A-plug),[1] 8.45 mm (B-plug); 7 mm (Mini / Micro-USB)
Height 4.5 mm (A-plug),[1] 7.78 mm (B-plug, pre-v3.0); 1.5â€"3 mm (Mini/Micro-USB)
Its called mini-B.
Thanks ZB, I have a spare from my camera for a 3 rd option..Off to the the woods, hee hee ho ho, on Saturday.
boB you asked about R132, attached is a pic of the board, I don't don’t know if R132 is there…
On the first page of pressing the status key I got a 5 in the upper middle of the screen for both Classics, #647 and #4592 and a note on #647 that the battery was 12 V, but it is a 24 V bank... {I previously had shut off the PV, disconnected the battery and reset charge settings }
Both Classics have MNGP V 1042 and FW V 1181 from Dec 2012
OK, so I tried to get my Netbook pc and Classic to talk to each other today...
First the FW Update process:
I had the FW install GUI (May5/14) installed on a W7 Netbook, and when I plugged in the USB cable I now got the normal 'bing bong' sounds for a new device connected...things were looking up :) mistake!
Chose Cl 150, yet Step 13or 14 in the W7 FW installation instructions NEVER appeared.
Things seemed to jump ahead and I did get a W command screen that asked if I wanted to abort the failed install (??) (but progress all the same...)
Following the instructions I went looking for the 'other devices ' in step 19 or something like it ....
no go.. nada…
Tonight, I just deleted and reinstalled the GUI (May10/14) so will attempt an Upgrade again next weekend...
Question: the GUI and the FW instructions contradict each other , the GUI says to shut of the power and the FW instructions, #13 say to have the power on, when the USB cord is plugged in.. which is correct? I used # 13… and seemed to get a connection.
Local App use:
I hooked up a 2 foot Cat5 cable to the port and got a solid/ flashing light for the connection when plugged into the pc...
Classic is set to STATIC not Dynamic IP.
I entered the address of the Classic but get Device not Available... seems to be the 502 port that is the issue.. ???
ReasonForResting = 5 Power is too low for 90 seconds (Solar 20W, Wind 50W)

If you are pluging in the Ethernet cable directly from the PC to the Classic. The PC has to have a different IP address than what the Classic has. Sound like you are trying to make them the same.
Watch Ryan's video on "Hooking Up the Classic to Ethernet" to see how to make this work.
http://www.midnitesolar.com/video/videoPlay.php?video_ID=39&videoCat_ID=3 (http://www.midnitesolar.com/video/videoPlay.php?video_ID=39&videoCat_ID=3)
Looks like that RFR is just normal shutdown when the sun sets, and what I saw was not the crash reason, superseded by yesterdays reason....
RH, thanks for asking, what I meant was that I made sure that both IPs were different on each classic... but... I had a typo on the Netbook so the PC was looking for something different than the LApp :o....Fixed it now, so I'll try again next weekend...
Now to figure out the FW Update issue...
And that "12V Batt" showing on #647 ???
Quote from: Westbranch on May 11, 2014, 02:06:52 PM
And that "12V Batt" showing on #647 ???
I would measure the voltage at the Bat terminals on the Classic and do a Factory Reset (VMM) on that Classic and see if it will find the correct voltage.
On the FW Update issue I'm no help there as I know netbooks are a little different with their OS versions. And I think you said you have never done FW updates with this netbook.
Right , and also NO FW updates ever on either Classic, at least by me.
#647 was updated when refurb'ed by MN.
I would sure like to know why it is showing "12V Batt", it may have something to do with the crash...?
Quote from: Westbranch on May 11, 2014, 12:35:47 AM
First the FW Update process:
I had the FW install GUI (May5/14) installed on a W7 Netbook, and when I plugged in the USB cable I now got the normal 'bing bong' sounds for a new device connected...things were looking up :) mistake!
Westbranch, not sure any of this will help but for what ever it's worth, this has been my experience with FW updates. MN is using a software driver to make the USB port emulate a serial port (COM8). So it is critical to get this driver loaded in order to update the Firmware.
It can be confusing when the USB should be plugged into the PC and when it should not. The same with when the Classic should be powered up and when it should be Powered Down and Powered backup. In my experience the sequence is critical for the operation to succeed.
Quote
Chose Cl 150, yet Step 13or 14 in the W7 FW installation instructions NEVER appeared.
This seems to be an issue but it just may be different on the Netbook, don't know for sure.
Step 13. With the power on to the Classic, plug the other end of the USB cable into the PC you are using to install firmware. This driver window will pop up telling you it is looking for the driver.
So prior to this point you
do not want the USB cable plugged into the PC. So you install the FW Update software
without the USB cable plugged into the computer. After you see the ReadMe file, make sure to Power up the Classic and then plug in the USB cable to the PC.
If you still do not see the installing device driver, wait for a few minutes and see if STEP 14 failure message shows up. You seem to indicate it did show up in your next statement.
Quote
Things seemed to jump ahead and I did get a W command screen that asked if I wanted to abort the failed install (??) (but progress all the same...)
Following the instructions I went looking for the 'other devices ' in step 19 or something like it ....
no go.. nada…
So yes proceed to the Device Manager on the PC. With the Classic Powered up and the USB connected if still no “Other†it would seem to indicate that for some unknown reason the Com serial emulator driver is failing to install on the Netbook. Also look in the Device Manager for PORT (Com & PT). If no PORT or OTHER its time for the MN experts to step in.
Quote
Tonight, I just deleted and reinstalled the GUI (May10/14) so will attempt an Upgrade again next weekend...
To uninstall you want to go to C:\MidniteSolar and look for “uninstaller.exe†, double click on this file to uninstall. Deleting the C:\MidnightSolar folder will not delete all the registry setting.
Quote
Question: the GUI and the FW instructions contradict each other , the GUI says to shut of the power and the FW instructions, #13 say to have the power on, when the USB cord is plugged in.. which is correct? I used # 13… and seemed to get a connection.
These are actually both correct at the appropriate time in the procedure. But the sequence is important. For #13 Power up Classic before connecting USB to the PC. For the Step #24 FW GUI screen you must Power Down the Classic click on the “Update Classic 150V†and wait for the DOS window to open, and then apply Power to the Classic.
Quote
Local App use:
I entered the address of the Classic but get Device not Available... seems to be the 502 port that is the issue.. ???
You could have issues here if the version of the Local App is out of sync with the Firmware on the Classic. Not sure but a lot has been added to the LA in the latest versions that would not apply to your current firmware on the Classics until you get the firmware updated. Not sure what version of the LA you are trying to run. Still this shouldn't cause it not to see the Classic. IMHO it seems to be a network setup issue of some kind. You might want to review Ryan's video I posted previous on this topic.
Good Luck, too bad this gets complicated at times, but I'm sure MN will step in and give you a hand at getting it set up.
If your Classic cannot be updated, then it may be time for an RMA. Especially if you have tried
more than one computer and OS.
When you say "12 Vbatt", what does that mean ? Where do you see that ? Is that the
nominal battery voltage showing or the batter voltage in the main status screen ?
Are all of the voltages zero in the main status screen ? It may be that the MNGP is not talking to the Classic.
There is another way to do a VMM factory/restore if the software updated correctly but the battery voltage
will come up as 12V until changed with the MNGP or the Local status panel...
There are 4 jumpers behind the main power terminal block on the control board... Power the classic
off and back on and within one minute, install the right-most and the left-most jumpers.
The 3 LED on the control board will flash back and forth. Then you can un-install those
two jumpers.
boB
Quote from: boB on May 11, 2014, 06:10:32 PM
When you say "12 Vbatt", what does that mean ? Where do you see that ? Is that the
nominal battery voltage showing or the batter voltage in the main status screen ?
boB that is the voltage showing on the same page as the FW version data. These sister CC's were set identically last fall ( AFAIK). this is the first time I have gone to this page as I had no need..
Quote from: boB on May 11, 2014, 06:10:32 PM
Are all of the voltages zero in the main status screen ? It may be that the MNGP is not talking to the Classic.
It seems that the MNGP is talking to the CC.
I reset all the '12v' settings discovered on #647's MGNP, to mirror #4592, and the MGNP was reading the same as my DMM when confirming the charger was working or the PVs were working...
Quote from: boB on May 11, 2014, 06:10:32 PM
There is another way to do a VMM factory/restore if the software updated correctly but the battery voltage will come up as 12V until changed with the MNGP or the Local status panel...
boB
I'll give it another 'regular' try this weekend before trying the jumper technique.
thanks
OK, give it another try...
The reason I mentioned the MNGP might not be talking to the Classic is because the firmware version
screen will show 12V if it cannot read from the Classic. Of course, the Classic FW version
won't show up then or the voltage (150,200,250) of the Classic, either if it isn't talking.
Sounds like of frustrating. Well, any time things aren't working correctly it's frustrating.
Quote from: Resthome on May 11, 2014, 04:28:00 PM
Quote
Tonight, I just deleted and reinstalled the GUI (May10/14) so will attempt an Upgrade again next weekend...
To uninstall you want to go to C:\MidniteSolar and look for “uninstaller.exe†, double click on this file to uninstall. Deleting the C:\MidnightSolar folder will not delete all the registry setting.
RH, when I ran the new download of the GUI install.exe file, I got a message that the 'previous version needs to be deleted, Do I want to delete?'
Clicked YES and I assume it was a MN prompt, not a W7 prompt...(??) because I had to restart the Install .exe file
Quote from: Westbranch on May 12, 2014, 12:13:18 PM
Quote from: Resthome on May 11, 2014, 04:28:00 PM
Quote
Tonight, I just deleted and reinstalled the GUI (May10/14) so will attempt an Upgrade again next weekend...
To uninstall you want to go to C:\MidniteSolar and look for “uninstaller.exe†, double click on this file to uninstall. Deleting the C:\MidnightSolar folder will not delete all the registry setting.
RH, when I ran the new download of the GUI install.exe file, I got a message that the 'previous version needs to be deleted, Do I want to delete?'
Clicked YES and I assume it was a MN prompt, not a W7 prompt...(??) because I had to restart the Install .exe file
That will work. The word "deleting" as opposed to "uninstalling" had me confused.
boB, here are a few pics of the Classic with the 12V designation showing in pics 11 and 12. ( see next post, 4 max per post)...
FW upgrade finally went through. More later as off to sleep for now.
last 2 pics
Pretty weird...
When the MNGP (and Classic ?) is first powered up, the MNGP reads the Classic's battery voltage
and tries to figure out the nominal battery voltage. If it can't read it within a short
amount of time, that's probably the reason it is showing 12V which is the default if nothing
shows up. Not sure how often this shows up in reality, but I don't think I've seen that
happen in a very long time, if ever.
boB, what does that 12 v reading impact? like when it has an unexplained RFR?
Does that reset all the defaults to 12v?
I posted the following last night in another thread:
I Just updated the FW on 2 Classics this weekend! Hurrah.... Had a bit of trouble with #2, so:
TIP1: always use the same USB 'hole' or the Update may not even start...
I have 3 USB connections on my Netbook. Only the one I successfully used for Updating Classic #1 would 'see' the connection to Classic #2 when I changed the connection. I tried the other 2, because of physical orientation, but nada...
Tip2: allow a good amount of time for your PC and Classic to FINALLY communicate sometimes it takes several minutes to do so...
Still working on getting comms with the LApp going. Thought I had it all sorted before we left for the cabin, but something is not just right yet... wish I had a 3 rd Classic here...