There are classic 250ks connected solar panels and channels 48 volts.
Faced with the problem when the device boots.
If the conclusions AUX1, AUX2 nothing is connected classic 250ks loaded checks its own and begins to work. This panel MNGP displays the current status and allows you to manage the controller.
Change the input AUX2 at WHIZBANG JR connect the sensor to the controller, classic 250ks begins to display the current battery. All displays and works.
If classic 250ks fully powered down for a few minutes and after that turn, the boot process fails.
The controller starts a loop to restart consistently blinking LEDs on the Board inside the case. This panel MNGP shows everywhere to zero and flashes "got comm". When trying to display device information see
Classic Rev: ---- Network Rev: 1674. IP network also does not rise controller is not visible. In this condition classic 250ks can be endlessly. However, if you disconnect the WHIZBANG JR from AUX2 input +, the controller will be downloaded and included in the work. After this wire WHIZBANG JR can connect back, and the controller will work.
Tried to flash temporary firmware 1849, the situation has not changed.
With AUX1 similar problem.
Translated AUX1 management 12V relay. Include classic 250ks check tester presence/absence 12V depending on the settings AUX1 all right. Connect to a running classic 250ks 12V relay it starts to control it. If classic 250ks fully powered down for a few minutes and after that turn, the boot process does not pass. Manifestation similarly AUX2 at WHIZBANG JR. When disconnecting the relay from AUX1 controller will be downloaded and included in the work.
The data controller
Classic 250ks (rev 4)
MAC: **:**:**:00:15:2D
Device ID: **** F81
IP: 192.168.1.170:502
Firmware:
- Classic Rev: 1779
- Network Rev: 1674
Last Voc:61.6
DB1: 0x-130beec5
DB2 0x-5956c05c
DB3: 0x-66c7f41d
DB4: 0x-24b84e42
What is on this account considerations, what and where to look, to do?
Dmitry, it almost sounds as if whatever is connected to the Aux1 or Aux2 terminals
are shorting out to negative or ground ? When the Aux outputs go active in this
condition, it can temporarily reset the Classic and you might see it continuously
re-boot and the LEDs flash and fans rev up.
When it resets, the Aux output should go back to zero (inactive) again and then
after the Classic main application comes alive and makes the Aux1 or Aux2 output
high (14 volts) then it briefly shorts again and the cycle continues.
Could that be it ? If so, go to the Aux1 and Aux2 menu and temporarily turn those
to MANUAL OFF and see if the problem continues. Press ENTER when you change
to OFF so that the Classic remembers. Then you can look further into the wiring
after you verify this.
Or, did I not understand this problem correctly ?
boB
You have understood everything correctly.
When you enable classic 250ks progressively blinking LEDs inside the body, while short-term switches connected to the input of AUX1. After that, all pogasit. The next attempt of start.
I don't see why not start the controller when connected devices. If it works with them without problems when connecting them after the boot controller.
The AUX output is not shorting out to negative or ground. That's exactly right.
At the moment I can't turn off both output, AUX and restart the controller but I will try it and write the result.
It begs the question AUX conclusions.
What is the maximum current that can give conclusion AUX1 mode 12v.
Is it possible for example to check AUX1 simple to connect 12v 0.3A fan from the computer.
About AUX2 how to check WHIZBANG JR can be in itself a problem.
I would like constructive assistance. May be somebody had something similar.
The Aux1 and Aux2 output are rated at 200 mA but will put out more current for a moment.
When the output shorts or draws too much current, the resettable Fuse (PTC) that protects
the outputs will open up but sometimes not before loading down the classic's power supply
enough to make it reset.
If you have a Whizbang Junior connected to Aux2 and the WB Jr. has a problem where it
is drawing too much current, it could certainly cause the problem you are describing.
That is why I suggest to try going to the Aux menu and temporarily setting the Aux
functions to Manual Off and see if the problem still persists.
Please let us know what happens.