Please explain the warning "DEFCON 4: FET Drive Error" that I found today.
I do not understand why this warning.
The classic controller 250ks used the least, no overloads not.
After this warning, it ceases to charge the battery after about 10 seconds the charge begins again.
In the description of Local App is said about the failure of the processor or the software, the more information I have not found.
Maybe it's simple overheating keys or failure of internal fans? What would you say Guru.
Yes, and more.
Is there somewhere a list of errors controller with minimal description?
Suddenly, there was an error "104: Unknown" , because of what is also unclear.
here are 2 other posts on Defcon 4
http://midniteforum.com/index.php?topic=1568.msg13412#msg13412
http://midniteforum.com/index.php?topic=1448.msg12049#msg12049
hth
Westbranch thank you.
I briefly read pracitces all the posts under The "Classic" charge controller. But mostly, questions or are solved simply, or hang with no solutions and no one really to say nothing.
In these positions answer as such, no. Only General considerations.
All I could find is a current overload.
But how can the current overload when classic 250ks holds 50A at 48v the battery, and I have solar panels at the peak 15A.
Over voltage can not be.
Appeared only new questions:
It is overheating, the refusal of the fans or they to this warning do not have a relationship?
If you encounter this error, it will reset or so and will hang?
How to reset this error if there is no direct access to the controller (I can't completely remove power and then turn on)?
What and where else can you look to understand the cause of this error?
Defcon 4 is not a heat problem.
Defcon 4 may mean Over Current Protection (OCP) with your Classic.
If OCP, then it may be from the fast PV array MPPT sweeping.
If so, try this... Go into the MODE menu and change the mode from
SOLAR to Legacy P&O instead. This sweeps slower.
Also, we do not use the message "Defcon 4" any more so maybe your software
for the Local App status panel is older and needs to be updated ?
Older Local Application may also be the reason you see "error 104 unknown"...
newer software should know what the errors are and give you some meaningful
information.
Either way, look to see what software versions are in the Classic and MNGP Remote control
and also how old the Classic itself is, maybe.
First thing to try though is to set the mode to Legacy P&O and see if this helps
the errors and stopping of the charger.
boB thanks.
Today the problem has recurred. On your recommendations remotely changed the controller's operating mode to Legacy P&o, Nothing has changed. The controller is started, you receive the warning "DEFCON 4: FET Drive Error" after that the charge is terminated and a new error 33, a screenshot. And so again and again. Also tried mode Dynamic Solar Tracking, all the same, the same 33 error.
Drew attention to the fact that the time of occurrence of the problem persists. They now have an array of 8 units, 230 watts, 24 volt solar panels. Four parallel chains of two in each. The problem starts when the sunlight gradually reduces the angle of incidence of the rays. Assume that at the time the problem began sun's rays fall on the panel at an angle of less than 30 degrees and angle all meniayetsia at this point, the partial shading panels from the surrounding trees. Not all simultaneously and consistently moving shadow. Darkening partially, not fully, but enough panel lost power by half or more.
Classic brand new, bought 3 months ago. For simplicity, until all assembled on the test stand. So connection errors are excluded.
Current firmware version.
Application Version 0.3.60
Firmware:
- Classic Rev: 1779
- Network Rev: 1674
While altering can't, because there is no direct access to the controller.
The questions now.
According to the description which I have given you if you can receive this error message because of the blackout panels or small beam of incidence of sunlight?
Is there a need in the firmware the latest version of firmware?
If Yes, will it be possible to get any new data from the controller when the error occurred?
Reason for Resting (RFR) 33 means OCP or Over Current Protection.
This could happen because something is wrong with the Classic itself but normally means
that the Classic has some kind of large load switching on on its battery side OR what can
exacerbate that issue is when the battery lines are fairly long and shared with an inverter.
That is because the inverter can draw its load from the Classic rather than the battery.
So you might want to check and/or report that information.
The Classic made some energy so it's not "broken" per-se but do you see this error
more towards the end of the day and not during the bulk of the day ? That would
be interesting.
Dmitry,
I hope that battery Ah rating is incorrect.
a 48v 10Ah battery will be a major problem if you have any inverter connected to it as well as the Classic.
dgd
Dimitry,
I think I see your problem, p.v. Volts in is too close to battery volts. In your last post you said you had 4 parallel strings of 2 "24 volt" panels in each string. If these panels are 60 cell panels they would be about 30 volts each or 60 volts for the string. And in the last screen shot shows p.v. Input volts is 56 volts , that is with the panels unloaded! You do not have enough volts to charge a 48 volt battery!
Generally minimum charge voltage will be something like maximum charge voltage of the batteries plus about 12 volts "headroom" for the controller to work with. Try wiring 4 panels in each series string. This will help with this and especially at low light conditions that you described in an earlier post.
I cannot comment on the error codes but I have had an issue with my Classic undercharging a 24 volt bank when solar panels were wires 2 in series "12 volt panels" for 34 volts total voltage on the string. I re wired to 4 panels in series (68 volt strings) and output increased considerably, expesially at fog, low light etc.
tecno
To all in the forum : if I am wrong about this shout out, this is a Classic 250 ks , designed for high voltage input!
td
Quote from: tecnodave on May 21, 2014, 10:39:43 PM
I think I see your problem, p.v. Volts in is too close to battery volts.
<snip>
Try wiring 4 panels in each series string. This will help with this and especially at low light conditions that you described in an earlier post.
Tecnodave is correct... you can't (under most conditions) charge a 48 volt battery with a Vmp of 60. If you do have 60-cell panels, the sweet spot (for controller efficiency) is three in series for a 48 volt system. In most climates, four panels in series will require one of the higher voltage Classics.
Of course, if you have 8 panels, you cannot make three strings of three panels per string. Can you add one more panel?
--vtMaps
Vtmaps,
I think Dimitri has a Classis 250 Ks.........no problems with 4 panel stacks at 120 volts.....efficiency would probably a bit better at three panels in series but the 4,in series was recommended as a quick solution.
td
Colleagues, thank you for clarification.
My answer is a large and complex, what would you have had the impression that I don't understand what you are doing. It seems to me that the occurrence of this error depends on the incorrect operation of the controller, firmware or partial damage of the electronics.
As I have said now, the controller runs on a test stand. The battery consists of 4 12 volt 32 amp hour batteries. Don't hit me, I understand that it is bad, but so long as there. Due to limited at the moment of the budget system is going sequentially. In the nearest plans purchase of batteries normal capacity. While the controller only works in order to understand in its work and in order to properly build up the system. No inverters to the battery is not connected. I took the simple static load of 200 watts (current consumption from battery power about 3.5 - 4 amps depending on the current battery voltage) and picked her up through relay leaving AUX 2. No other loads are not. The controller is almost always keeps the battery in FLOAT mode. I think the current 3-5 amps are issued by the controller may not cause such a problem. I understand you now think that I am here hammer head is unclear what, collect something is not clear how. Why bother to help me. I love to get a system for 3-5 thousand dollars, but understand I do not earn so much that could afford it immediately. Your product is a revolutionary and he has not much competition. The more you sell it only in the American market and officially will not deliver. I think that I am one of the first customers in Russia who decided to try your revolutionary product. And not bought on our market Xantrex XW-MPPT, OutBack FlexMax or often offer me sellers TriStar-MPPT.
Now for the bad.
Yesterday I had the opportunity to work with the controller.
I have tried to fulfill almost all your suggestions for alteration of the system.
First, it was updated controller software.
Firmware:
- Classic Rev: 1849
- Network Rev: 1839
Was made reset at boot keys, right left, as indicated in the instructions for the firmware off the outputs AUX1, AUX2.
After that the controller is running, but strangely behaved. Almost always in the RESTING mode: 5 featuring low input voltage, although the difference between the power was more recommended 12 volts. At the entrance 62-63 volt, battery about 50 volts. Randomly switched in charging mode. Assuming that there is not enough input voltage connection of panels was converted into two chains of 4 pieces. Eventually voltage input array panels was about 130 volts.
And so then the problems started.
For the purity of the experiment were off both comfort AUX1, AUX2, was also disabled all the load on the battery. Simple battery charge controller. Periodic off (disable) the controller, the battery discharge to the load.
After turning on the controller, it is after initialization is included in the work and depending on the voltage of the battery starts one or another stage charging. All as I first thought was normal. Goes statistics kilowatt, ampere hours. After a while, he suddenly begins to restart. The exact time can't say, but it's about 1 time in 30-50 minutes. All statistics kilowatt, ampere hours is set to zero. Then again starts charging.
I am attaching first screenshot with the data after spontaneous reboot the controller.
But this is only half the problem, the second I noticed when we decided to measure the current-voltage batteries. And here I saw that the controller shall issue to the battery voltage 5.9-6,0 more volts than it really shows. I thought I lost calibration device. Immediately checked settings compensation they were 0, I tried to change them, but they have a limit of only plus minus 2.5 volts. So to align the voltage did not succeed. Ultimately left to 0.
Colleagues, I normally versed in electronics and able to measure correctly any tension. I make a small difference in measurements of the order of 0.1-0.3 volts of precision instruments. So I went ahead to understand and found the following.
Fully abastecibe controller. Now if you turn on and connect the solar panels, he begins the boot process. After full loading it starts to give data about the voltage of the battery. Measure the control voltage tester almost identical, the controller shows 0.2 volts more than I measure. Mode of charge and after about 60 seconds I see that the control voltage of the batteries has increased by 6 volts.
I am attaching the second screenshot with the data after the tension rose.
The controller I see that charge voltage 57,2 Volta actually measure of control tester on batteries issued 63,1 volts.
In fact, the controller fry batteries and it is unclear for what.
Conducted another experiment.
Fully abastecibe controller. Now if you turn without connecting solar panels, it begins the boot process. After full loading it starts to give data about the voltage of the battery. Measure the control voltage tester also coincide, the controller shows 0.2 volts more than I measure. Leave the controller in this mode, after a while (already about 5-10 minutes), you see that the control voltage of the controller, sharp drops on the same 6 wills.
I am attaching the third screenshot with the data after a voltage drop.
The controller I see that the voltage of the batteries 45,5 Volta actually measure of control tester battery 51,4 volts.
To connect with this problem solar panel to the controller, I was afraid, for now he is connected to the battery.
What to do next I do not even know.
Help, can give access to a laptop with Midnite Application via TeamViewer.
If I am understanding you right the controller is reading the battery voltage to high when charging and to low when resting? Sounds like a bad connection somewhere. Forgive me if you said but I did not see it. Did you verify on the blue terminal block with a volt meter if the volt meter agrees with the classic say within a volt?
So try this test for me:
1- Classic on no solar panels on. Display on classic shows what voltage? ( ) now volt meter on the blue terminal block shows what voltage?( )
2- Classic on and Solar panels on and charging. Display on classic shows what voltage? ( ) now volt meter on the blue terminal block shows what voltage?( )
3- Also in Step2 does the Classic say Bulk MPPT or Absorb?
I don't quite understand what you want from me.
All measurements which I do, same if I measured at the terminals of the battery or on the blue terminal Board controller.
Then the problem is in the controller.
Halfcrazy please call us on skype login: gr.solar
I right now you can show them to you.
Set up which takes calls from any user.
Now the picture in Skype you can see the data controller and parallel data from the tester is connected to the blue block controller.
Unfortunately I have no tester that would show the measured voltage, the one I use is turned off after 10 minutes of non-use, the other at the moment I don't have.
If to say briefly:
During the charge controller charges the batteries with voltage of 6 V more than he shows.
If solar panels are disabled, the tension which shows the controller
exactly 6 volt lower than in reality batteries.
The connections and wires do with it.
I can get you to record video where all the measurements I do on the blue block controller.
Ok let me ask this:
Does the volt measurements on the blue block agree with the Classics display (Or pretty close to it)?
I'll say it again.
On the blue terminal is already present difference 6 volt, from indications on the display of the controller.
The voltage on a blue terminals equally with the battery voltage.
And, as I have defined this difference is stored in different modes charging.
Note that after upgrading the software, all controller settings were reset to default. No correction voltage is not installed. Correction battery voltage temperature is turned off.
Mode "BULK MPPT " , such as the controller shows 51,0 volt battery life measured by the control voltage tester will be at 6 volts more 57,0 volts.
Mode "ABSORB" the controller shows 54,8 volt battery control tester voltage measured 60,8 Volta, in the settings 57,2 volts.
Mode "FLOAT" the controller shows 52,7 volt battery control tester voltage measured 58,7 Volta, in the settings 54,4 volts.
Write your thoughts, today, tomorrow can do with the controller any manipulation, to give access to a laptop with Midnite Application via TeamViewer.
Then go away and most likely will turn off, as it is dangerous to leave such unpredictable controller without attention.
Colleagues managed to catch spontaneous reboot the controller.
It looks like this.
The controller is charging. The panel displays all the settings. Unexpectedly inside the body begins flashing red led. On the Board it is marked D2. After 3 seconds it goes off on the display of the controller at this time, see termination of charging, the battery voltage and solar panels are displayed. Further, this also led (D2) starts poorly lit, run the fan, blue led is lit and the controller is reset, and the panel does not go out, but still displays the voltage of the battery and solar panel. After 1 minute charging begins on the scoreboard displays all parameters.
When you restart also loses communication with the controller application Midnite Application.
Waiting for your considerations.
If the answer please do not mix the problem controller restarts and incorrect voltage, separate posts for better understanding of the problem.
Dmitry, when you see the Classic reset (flashing D2, etcetera), what is the MNGP/Remote LCD on the Classic displaying at that time ?
Is the remote MNGP displaying logging information ? I ask this because if the Local App panel and the MNGP/remote LCD is
both displaying the logging information at the same time, this may in some cases make the Classic reset itself.
If that is not the case, then you may just have a defective charge controller. I will let Ryan (Half Crazy) respond as well.
Sorry about these problems.
boB I can't exactly answer your question, because of the chaotic controller restarts.
Unfortunately, at the time that I got to see I didn't bring a camera to take pictures of the process.
Reboot very difficult to catch, I tried yesterday to sit and wait, but the controller is unfortunately not been restarted.
I drew attention to two points, but cannot guarantee their complete accuracy. This is my personal opinion, I think, maybe it's not.
First.
The controller restarts when intensively looking for a point MPPT. That is the day when solar panels generate a lot of power reboots I have not committed. In the evening when the power panels falls to between 100 and 150 watts (I have at the peak of the panel give about 1800 watts) the controller begins to actively seek the maximum power point, at this moment begin chaotic reboot.
If you look at the beginning of this topic, you will see that on the previous firmware in these moments controller went in the error DEFCON 4: FET Drive Error
She does not pop up, simply reboot.
A second.
It seemed that the frequency of reboots depends on the temperature of the internal circuit boards of the controller.
Yesterday I measured the voltage on the blue Board and left the top cover of the controller next. Now the frequency of reboots fell sharply. That got me thinking about the overheating of the components inside the device. While fans the controller does not run, I understand he believes that the temperature is normal for him. I estimated the temperature difference, with the cover removed by 1.5 - 2 degrees below it.
Don't even know you believe me, but simply removing the top cover leads to such effect. And to see it I had to spend two days.
It may be the case in a blue cord, he at the time of the removed cover is taut. Could there be a problem in the reboots from the cable? Does it make sense to change it to Yes to another? With mind cable without damage I did nothing.
Now describe reboot time.
To understand in brackets will approximate the displayed values. At the time between reboots.
The controller is charging. The panel displays all the parameters: voltage solar (103,3 volts), the instantaneous power (60 watt), kilowatt hours (0,1), the battery voltage (49,2 volts), the current battery charge (1.2 amps), the operating mode of the controller (Bulk MPPT).
Unexpectedly inside the body begins flashing red led. On the Board it is marked D2. After 3 seconds it goes off on the display of the controller at that time, see: voltage solar (115,0 volts), the instantaneous power (0 watts), kilowatt hours (0), the battery voltage (49,2 volts), the current battery charge (0 amps), the operating mode of the controller (? I can't say).
Further, this also led (D2) starts poorly lit, run the fan, blue led is lit and the controller is reset, and the panel does not go out, but still displays the voltage of the battery and solar panel.
After 1 minute charging begins on the scoreboard displays all parameters kilowatt hours reset to 0.
Voltage of solar panels (103,3 volts), the instantaneous power (60 watt), kilowatt hours (0), the battery voltage (49,2 volts), the current battery charge (1.2 amps), the operating mode of the controller (Bulk MPPT).
When you restart also loses communication with the controller application Midnite Application.
Anything to do with the panel I was not managed then, everything happened so quickly that I only had time to watch and remember.
After the reboot panel is working without problems, all settings are displayed and edited.
boB really bothers me is the problem with stress.
Now I can't leave the controller unattended, he instead to charge the batteries they will simply be roasted increased by 6 volts voltage. What to do I just don't know.
If with the old firmware I was not afraid to leave the controller unattended, with new, it's just dangerous.
You can now record video you if it helps. Unfortunately, I have to leave tomorrow and I won't have direct access to the controller for a while.
Also, I started a post about AUX conclusions
http://midniteforum.com/index.php?topic=1860.0
I thought the firmware of the device will remove the problem, but it is just not up to it. It would have to know exactly what the problem reboots does not depend on AUX conclusions, I was disconnected in all settings turned off, left the controller one. Now he starts without a problem, next to understand until I became.
Dmitry, what is the serial number of your Classic ?
Or, the date of manufacture ?
Serial 10576.
Production date I do not know where to look.
The checklist quality signed date 9-26-13.
Colleagues, boB, post a video link with the increase of the voltage at the battery connected to the controller.
http://youtu.be/SExAEdj1V5Y
I have already thoroughly described in this process, refer to the time of ascending at 6:19.
Also be sure to see, starting from 8:40 to end the recording. Where I make the control voltage measurement.
Important notice.
When writing, for greater clarity of the process I decided to slightly modify the system configuration. Was reduced battery capacity up to 14 ampere hour 48 volts, so you can see a sudden increase in voltage issued by the controller to the battery. If battery capacity is large, this process simply stretched for time-dependent current capacity issued by the solar panels and the charge status of the batteries. But still in the end of the battery trying to enter the increased voltage.
In this video controller only infects battery, no load additional charge to the batteries have not connected, no controller setup at this point had been made, AUX conclusions disabled.
Dmitry,
Your video is out of focus most of the time. When it briefly comes into focus where there is only 0.4v difference between the MNGP and your voltmeter this just shows the TWEAKS menu needs to adjust the display voltage.
After another period of not focussed it comes into focus and we see the voltmeter is suddenlt showing about 6 volts higher than the MNGP.
It would be nice to see the point where this change occured and what the MNGP had displayed. We can see before and after but not the event itself.
56.2v seems to be your absorb voltage setting but meter for no reason changes from 55.8v to 62v. The input voltage stays about the same but watts input has risen from about 45w to 90w. At least the Classic is consistent with battery voltage reading
Have you tested voltages with another voltmeter, one that has been certified as accurate?
WHat guage are those battery cables into the Classic #6? They look small diameter cable especially if you can get the voltmeter test probes along with the power cables into the blue connector block
When you use the voltmeter to test the actual battery voltage at the battery then what is that voltage?
It also seems extremely unlikely that the battery voltage would change from 55.8 to 62 in a second or so unless some other large charging current was applied by an external device. Makes me think the meter is suspicious.
dgd
DGD don't get me wrong, but what is the quality of the video I capture. I believe the quality HD IPhone enough to capture and not all would see. What put the quality on youtube.com worse, it is not dependent on me. However, if you watched this video in full screen and forcibly changed quality with 360p in 720p HD, you would not have written to me that the video is not in focus, all clearly and perfectly visible.
A time of increasing tension I wrote it 6:19.
Look again video as 720p HD.
And now a question for you?
If I have a blue contacts (batteries) terminal blocks of the controller is connected voltmeter and I at the beginning of the video you can see the difference between the voltage of the voltage and the voltage panel controller 0.4 volts, this we believe is inaccurate. Explain to me then. If voltmeter not be disconnected from the contacts on the blue terminal blocks of the controller, which then at 6:19 time video a difference in 6 volts between the readings displayed voltmeter and indications MNGP panel controller?
Dmitry,
OK, maybe its just me but the video is mostly out of focus and a few times it suddenly gets sharp focus.
Maybe someone else can view your video and confirm if it's my problem with viewing in focus.
The 0.4 volt difference is Ok, Maybe just the Classic display voltage needs adjusting using the TWEAKS menu.
The 6 volt difference is just not right.
So why does your voltmeter show 55.8volts then within a second or so it changes to 62 volts?
Have you measured the real battery voltage AT THE BATTERY terminals, NOT the Classic.
I just cannot believe the battery suddenly changes from 55.8 volts to 62 volts when the power input from the Classic changes from 45 watts to 90 watts.
Have you tried another voltmeter? So that we can eliminate a faulty voltmeter.
dgd
Very interesting. Thank you Dmitry for the video. This is usually a great way to show problems.
Is it possible that your meter is set to peak-hold mode ?? I am wondering if maybe a
load came on at 6:19 where I briefly see the MNGP show "Bulk MPPT" with the Classic
Vbatt meter dropping from 56.2V down to something in the 55.x volt range.
With a small battery size (14 amp-hour) the Classic might possibly overshoot and
show a peak voltage of around 62 volts but you would not necessarily see this
show up on the Classic's average readout of Vbatt because it is so quick.
Also, I notice that your meter shows a high voltage after you remove the probes
from the Classic's blue terminal block.
Interesting problem, especially if your meter is not set for peak (maximum) hold.
I will wait for your reply about possible peak reading mode.
boB thanks.
Once again began to review the video and just now noticed.
At the time 6:19 of the voltage controller briefly changed the type of work c "Ðbsorb" on "Bulk MPPT" then again "Ðbsorb".
About your comments.
I can safely say that correctly the voltmeter to measure the voltage, and is not installed in the remembering of the peak voltage.
Maybe some error in measurement, but it is on my memory was not more of 0.4 volts.
Look closely video, 8:40. I specifically demonstrated test measurements, disconnecting and connecting a voltmeter to the terminals of the controller.
Note 9:08 I measured the voltage at the terminals coming from solar panels, the difference amounted to 0.7 volts.
Then again I measured the voltage at the terminals of the battery and the difference in 6 volts present.
About the high voltage at the end of the video of which you speak.
Voltmeter is in automatic mode voltage selection and tried to measure chaotic induced voltage test leads, not connected to anything. This is not volts you only saw the mV, I write 10:05 specially shorted out probes voltmeter and indications steel 0, had this zapechatlet on the video, I at that time about it I just wasn't thinking.
Don't get me wrong.
To me there is no benefit to fool your head and try to falsify the results on the video.
Just now, the controller works, I think, wrong, and I fear to leave it unattended. He increased voltage burn either batteries or himself.
Ready to any experiments, describe what and how to spend, I will try to do with the video report. If you want, I'm ready to record video with two testers different manufacturers.
As you know I'm not very English, so if you will write something difficult to understand, try to write simpler.
I know you are not wanting to fool me on any of this but I must ask questions just the same so that
I fully understand what is going on.
What I do not understand then is why your meter is reading 62 volts when the Classic is reading
56.2 volts. I could understand if the Classic was reading 62 volts and your meter was reading 56.2
volts though, maybe.
Maybe you can wiggle the blue terminal block and see i the readings are different when
it is moved.
Also, can you please take some insulated tool or piece of plastic and lightly tap the Classic's
circuit board to see if it has some kind of loose connection or loose component ?
I would try tapping lightly between the lower left and over to the large 100 pin
microprocessor to see if the Classic's input voltage changes at all.
Does your system have another charger on it besides the Classic during these tests ?
boB understand your doubts.
Watch a video from 9:00 I specifically measured the voltage on the blue terminal from solar panels, what would you have had the impression that my voltmeter measures the wrong voltage.
At 9:10 input voltage which shows panel controller 114,8 volts, my tester shows -115,2 volts.
Then at 9:18 I change the polarity measurements rearranging leads tester, tension controller to 114.7 Volta, my voltmeter 115,3 volts.
Notice the difference in absolute value in the input voltage of the solar panels in the first case amounted to 0.4 volts, the second of 0.6 volts.
Next, measure the voltage at the battery terminals.
At 9:29 have the voltage of the controller shows 56,2 volts measured by the tester -62,1 volts.
At 9:37 have the voltage of the controller shows 56,2 volts measured by the tester 62,1 volts.
Total difference in absolute value stresses amounted to 5.9 volts.
Even with the maximum error that was me recorded in the measurement of voltages of solar batteries of 0.6 volts, the difference 5.8 volts cannot be an error of the tester.
All miralos direct touch the terminals to exclude any assumptions about the voltage drop on the cable.
As I wrote previously, the video was shown easy charging of batteries.
Any stress, extra charger not connected.
Battery capacity video 14 ampere hour 48 volt , was chosen exclusively for quick demonstration of the process.
I feel blue terminal strip soldered so thoroughly that even move would be difficult. I suspect that maybe the controller somewhere bad contact, but in appearance are not.
There is a big question on black strap which screwed power keys. I controller came and she in several places between the screw is visible cracks. But all tightly curled. On this occasion I did not write and do not turn, during the unpacking just did a photo where it is clearly visible.
All the rest are collected just fine, nothing to loose, all filled with varnish.
The controller is so advanced, there are so many different elements that go into it, I think it is simply harmful.
I went and still do not have direct access to the controller. He turned off. My relatives who he is, do not have sufficient skills to work with such sophisticated equipment, so I have forbidden anything to do with it.
Write all what you think is necessary, I am ready as soon as you arrive and I will have access to the controller, perform any measurement of change of the mode of work, even if I need to make updates to the software.
The cracks on the black FET hold down clamp (strip) is normal and OK. There is metal inside of it.
There is another way to see what the Classic thinks the battery voltage is in addition to the upper right
Vbatt reading when the Classic is ON. When I say "ON", I mean that it is displaying MPPT or Absorb
and not Resting.
From the main status screen (you were showing this in your video) press and hold down the Left-Arrow key...
Then, tap (press) the ENTER key while holding down the left-arrow key. This will bring up another screen
with numbers on it. It will show IN on the top left and OUT on the top right and a + and - in the middle
with numbers to the left and right of the + and - Look at the lower right number in the lower right
corner. This will be the battery voltage without the decimal point. (a "," in your language of course)...
So, I would like to know what that lower right number shows when you see the 62.1 volts on your meter.
The lower right number in this test screen is read differently than the main battery voltage that you
were showing in your video. Let's try to see if this lower-right number is different than the
main status screen battery voltage number when your meter shows 62 volts as well as when
the Classic battery voltage is showing 55 or 56 volts.
That new lower right number would show 621 if it thinks that the battery is 62.1 or 62,1 volts
and 562 if it thinks that the battery voltage is 56,2 volts. It will most likely be slightly different
than the main battery voltage but maybe it will show near 62 volts when your meter is showing
62 volts.
Please give this a try.
Colleagues, boB, it took quite a long time, I had the opportunity to come and to work with the controller, time was short, but I recorded a new video that you must see.
Clarify some points that are reflected in this video:
1. Finally I have bought 4 helium battery 100 ampere-hour 12-volt.
Currently, the total Bank is 100 ampere hour to 48 volts.
I think you have had doubts when I recorded the past video controller is connected to the small-capacity batteries.
Current capacity, I believe it is quite sufficient for objective assessment of the performance of the controller.
2. To avoid incorrect removal shown was used another digital voltmeter. In the very beginning of the video I dedicate the time of calibration voltmeters. Forgive note, the difference in readings between voltmeters is 0.2 volts. That speaks about the reliability of their testimony with regard to errors of measurements of each.
3. Like last video was a test charge the batteries. No load connected. Only solar panels, the controller, batteries, and voltmeters.
4. The weather at the time of the experience was cloudy with frequent change of illumination from maximum to almost zero.
5. Due to the complexity of the experiment, I had to ask to make a video of my friend, in the process video I gave him instructions on what to show. Unfortunately not ready to comment in English. As it turned out shooting on the phone is not very good, there are times loss of field and low-light. In the video I tried to photograph all that you might be interested in, look completely in choosing quality 720.
6. The controller is connected to the battery copper wire 6 square millimeters, 1.5 meters long.
Now the feature that has appeared during the experiment.
Unfortunately, this time, I failed to capture the moment when the controller starts not display the correct voltage. With small-capacity batteries that moment it was possible to catch fast enough. With the new batteries I wait for a moment longer hours and could not catch. As a result, the controller was left on, coming in a few hours I noticed the difference in 6 volts. Immediately after this was recorded video.
Note.
Here is a slightly different result. Because the batteries are high enough, the controller fails to turn up the voltage up to 60 volts, as it was at the last video. Instead, the indicator displays at 6 volts less than the current battery voltage.
At the moment I see no need to paint every minute that I did on the video. I think it will be clear. If necessary, ask questions, pointing out the exact time, I will answer.
Video.
http://youtu.be/4ITmfO89_TQ
Colleagues, boB,
On the same day at evening, accidentally recorded an error "DEFCON 4: FET Drive Error".
Like last video was a test charge the batteries. No load connected. Only solar panels, the controller, batteries, and voltmeters.
Video.
http://youtu.be/_B1Q4JO0HjI
Quote from: Dmitry on June 21, 2014, 05:10:31 AM
Colleagues, boB,
On the same day at evening, accidentally recorded an error "DEFCON 4: FET Drive Error".
Like last video was a test charge the batteries. No load connected. Only solar panels, the controller, batteries, and voltmeters.
Video.
http://youtu.be/_B1Q4JO0HjI
I have no idea what this reason for resting is said but here is the info for RFR 31 shown in your video.
ReasonForResting = 31 AD1CH.IbattMinus > 900 (peak negative battery current)
boB will have to answer this one.
Also looks like when on the RFR screen the BAT voltage in lower right corner with out the decimal is reading 548-552 or near the same as the meter. But the Status screen is displaying the incorrect voltage. Another one for boB to answer.
It is unusal for the battery voltage reading to be that far off. Do you have anything set in the voltage offset? You could try using that to correct it. There is also a potentiometer on the control board , which bob can advise on.
Quote from: zoneblue on June 21, 2014, 07:00:52 PM
It is unusal for the battery voltage reading to be that far off. Do you have anything set in the voltage offset? You could try using that to correct it. There is also a potentiometer on the control board , which bob can advise on.
Zoneblue. The video showed the offset at 0. The interesting one was the BAT reading that shows up on the RFR secret display showed the BAT voltage without the decimal and it is close to the reading on the voltmeter, it's the reading on the Status display that is way off. Would like to hear what boB thinks about that.
Dmitry, thank you for this video. The battery voltage is certainly reading wrong as this plainly shows.
Did you say that the voltage on the Classic ~sometimes~ reads correctly and matches your multi-meter ?
If so, it may be a bad connection inside the Classic on that top circuit board. If it is ~always" 6 volts low,
the adjusting that top trim-pot variable resistor may fix the reading and make it correct.
If the Classic MNGP/Remote meter reading is intermittent and only sometimes wrong and sometimes
correct, then please try gently pushing on the top PCB to see if it might be a bad connection that makes
the Classic come back to correct readings. You may want to set the Classic's mode to off when trying that
to make sure it does not affect the switching control of the power section during connections moving around.
Colleagues, boB,
As usual we will wait for the result, when I have the opportunity to come and work with the controller.
I have a great suspicion that the problem in the firmware or something boards are responsible for controlling tension and here's why.
In this post I draw an issue that is very important, as it can lead to the decommissioning of batteries because of their overcharging.
I actually wrote that the stresses are the same. This condition is observed only after downloading the controller up some time.
Clarification.
After adding new batteries, I found the difference of 1.0-1.4 volts between the readings of the controller and voltmeter in different modes. When you charge the controller tries to charge the batteries 1.0-1.4 volts more than it really shows on the panel and worth it in the settings. Mode ABSORB stand settings 57.2 volts, the controller gave 58.2 volts, in FLOAT mode settings are 54.4 volts, the controller gave 55.8 volts. All settings of the controller I showed in the video.
Just now, to focus attention on that did not. These 0.8-1.4 volts, you can try to adjust settings. Video did not even write. We will write.
After a while something happens, it starts correctly display voltage, only a reboot helps. I have repeatedly reset the controller at boot. When you tried to work off a solar panel, change the mode of charge, nothing helps. Also at your request, pushed charge in the area of the terminal strips and processor, also any results. On the top Board are all perfectly built, covered with a varnish, there is nothing Gorely, when the controller all elements warm.
I can try to parse the controller, but then write what and where exactly it show.
And the question of why the site is not protected old firmware on the device?
At least you could see the controller's operation with different firmware versions.
Now I have a laptop accidentally left earlier already have a desire to return back to the old firmware.
Dmitry, I do not quite understand what is happening here but the firmware should not have this effect unless somehow
the Classic did not get programmed correctly ?
The reason you cannot immediately return to the older firmware version is because there is not enough
memory inside the Classic to store more than one version of firmware. I wish it could do that.
I have every old version of firmware available though so any one of them you would like, just let me know
and I will point you to it... (or anyone else that wants them)
I have a feeling that with the intermittent problems you are seeing, you have a bad control board but please
try pressing it lightly to make sure there is not some obvious bad connection where anytime you move or
jiggle the Classic, it changes its voltage reading.
I saw in your video the debugging screen on the display where the lower right number was showing the
correct voltage so something is working OK even though the main battery voltage is reading wrong.
boB
Thank you.
Colleagues, what are the considerations about my second video "DEFCON 4: FET Drive Error"?
Anyone able to explain in detail the error RFR 31?
Quote from: Dmitry on June 23, 2014, 06:41:29 AM
Thank you.
Colleagues, what are the considerations about my second video "DEFCON 4: FET Drive Error"?
Anyone able to explain in detail the error RFR 31?
Dmitry, RFR 31 means that the Classic thinks that it sees more than 90 amps.
I would guess that with your other problem, (battery voltage0, the RFR 31 message may mean that your hardware has a problem or that the firmware update did not quite take correctly.
I think your idea of trying a previous or older version of firmware is a very good idea.
Let's see what happens when you try that.
Colleagues, boB,
Today we have an opportunity to work with the controller.
Simultaneously recorded some new video for you to be able to see some lost moments in my early videos.
All video was written by me, so there are moments when something is not clear or renewed orientation.
It was decided to make the most of the mechanical and measuring work with the controller. I hope that in the controller somewhere bad contact.
After verification, take a decision about the firmware of the controller in the early firmware.
In brackets shall specify the time for the video, which is reflected described the moment.
We hope the work done knowingly, perhaps my videos somebody will help.
1. The first video.
http://youtu.be/qH6js9XDrpU
Was Sunny weather, solar power batteries was enough, was recorded moment of raising voltage on the battery up to 61.6 Volta [00:08]that displays in this moment showed 55.8 volts [0:36]in the service information readings varied from 62.2 to 62.4 [0:40].
Note that the current mode “FLOATâ€.
Make measurements second voltmeter [1:51], the application on a laptop also shows incorrect values [2:34].
Try to put pressure on the elements controller card no positive result [2:37].
Disconnect the cable panel [3:44], re-connect the panel [4:00]that no positive result.
Piratical panel in another port [4:54], a positive result not.
Do control measurement on batteries [5:50], voltage 61.6 volts.
Make the control current measurement [6:12], a current of 1 ampere.
Do control measurement voltage solar cells [7:03], the voltage in the range 130-137 volts.
2. The second video.
http://youtu.be/mJ_pusJkUVM
Previous state.
Try to disable the solar panel.
Note after turning off the solar panels voltage proportional decreases, the difference in 6 volt remains.
3. Third video.
http://youtu.be/N0baPVd0EKA
Took off the top management card. Visible damage on the power Board no, on the control card no injuries. All connectors good.
4. Fourth video.
http://youtu.be/yofD9ngITIw
Installing the control back. All the connectors are fully seated.
5. The fifth video.
http://youtu.be/pqerXnYHWsk
The controller is started in work with the initial discharge.
Please note a few points.
After running on batteries 54.3 Volta [1:00pm], scoreboards at this moment showed the correct voltage value 54.5 volts.
In the service information testimony I was somewhat surprised, there was an increase of voltage from 34 to 41 [1:07]. It appears I do not understand.
Next were connecting solar cells [2:32],
Pay attention to what voltage is charging mode “ABSORB†[2:53], the panel 58.3 Volta, voltmeter shows 57.8 Volta, in the service information readings from 58.2 to 58.6 [2:56].
In the settings voltage 57.2 Volta [5:55]. Correction voltage not.
Why classic hard fed to charge the batteries on 1.1 volts more unclear.
6. The sixth video.
http://youtu.be/erm2Lra482Q
The transition from the regime of “ABSORB†to “FLOATâ€.
The controller is switched mode battery mode “FLOAT†[0:29], the voltage drops on the panel 55.7 Volta, voltmeter shows 55.3 Volta [0:38], in the service information readings 55.6 [1:02].
In the settings voltage 54.4 Volta [1:41]. Correction voltage not.
Classic also eats the batteries charge voltage of 1.2 volts more than worth it in the settings.
Today the work is complete, the controller in the work.
I will watch it tomorrow during the day.
It's unclear why in the modes “ABSORB†and “FLOAT†controller hard eats the batteries charge voltage at 1.1 - 1.2 volts more than set in the settings.
Interesting how the voltages differ.
Somethings munted, likely culprit seems to be the MNGP unless the local app is agreeing with the MNGP. Then its the Classic.
dgd
Colleagues, boB, all of you who follow my theme.
My hopes for bad connections inside the controller is not justified.
Today morning changeable weather, the morning was clear to dinner clouds appeared. The controller has worked properly for about three hours. While it was clear enough. In the end, as usual went to incorrect display of voltage. Catch the moment it is quite difficult, I noticed what happens when a small solar panels power the controller intensively seeking the maximum power point. I usually have fixed it in the end of the day. Today, clouds appeared fell sharply power solar panels. Ultimately disappointing result. The mode in which was the controller before was “FLOAT MPPTâ€.
Now it only remains for me to try to flash the controller older firmware and test its performance.
I expect all constructive proposals, what would you do another.
I have another idea, Dmitry.
It may be that the wiper of the battery voltage adjustment trimpot (variable resistor) is not making a
good connection or has a bad solder joint. This is the small square variable resistor
just below the bottom yellow inductor and just above the lower horizontal 12 pin connector.
There are 3 of these 12 pin connectors on the control board. One of then is on the lower left
and is vertical and the horizontal one just to the right of the vertically oriented connector
is the one I am talking about here. Just above that horizontal connector and below the
yellow inductor is that trimp-pot, VR1.
Try this.... While watching the voltage on the MNGP display, push on this trim-pot VR1
and see if the voltage reading goes correct and bad again when you stop pushing on it.
Maybe it is not soldered on one of its bottom connections ?
If that does not do anything positive, remember where it is set to now and with a
small screwdriver, adjust it one way and the other. The battery voltage should
go up and down some. This is one thing that could cause this behavior also.
boB