So i just hooked everything up finally, now my display is missing and the whizbang is not blinking anymore. Here's what led to this:
1) Hooked up battery bank: (4) 6v t- 105re in series for 24v. No problem there. 4/0 cables with "L" connectors
2) hooked up the neg (all wires here are 6awg) inverter and CC to the correct part of the shunt, then the neg battery to the shunt. No prob.
3) hooked up the positive wires to the 60a breaker on the CC side from battery (leaving the battery lead unhooked at this time, breaker off). Then the inverter pos (no breaker yet...it hasn't come in yet) to the battery along with the cc pos to battery pos terminal. No problems.
4) turned inverter on... Everything fine. Turn it back off.
5) make all the connections from 150 chassis to the remote face plate, install the little battery, the WB lead, and the temp sensor.
6) flip the CC breaker, 150 powers up, WB start blinking green. Commence the setup menu, everything fine. Detach the face plate, at the chassis connection, so i can now hook the pv leads up. Hook them in the correct blocks (i hadn't flipped the breaker off before doing this, btw), though made sure the pv combiner breaker was in the off position).
7) hook the face plate back up, and. ..... Nothing. WB no longer blinking, blank unpowered screen on the face. What happened?
Hi BlackwaterPark,
Did the display get plugged back into the correct connector?
Doug
Did you power the CC off and on again, from the battery with PV still not off also, after the last 2 steps were complete?
No, i don't believe i did. I reconnected and re tightened the cc breaker connections (and am discovering exactly how much i dislike these dinn rail breakers in the process). After everything was retightened, i flipped the breaker and the classic powers up, the fan starts to come on, and then the whole thing shuts back down.
Yes Doug, the master one. The problem seems that the 150 won't stay powered up.
The order is important! Battery first then PV...
I did. When i did that, everything seemed fine, set up ran fine. Then i disconned the chassis cable and took off the plate to hook the pv wires in. That's when i lost the CC, after hooking it all back up.
Should i flip the combiner breaker on at this point?
Problem solved :) Thanks Roy! Doug, you were correct.
Quick question though... The WB is telling me i have 400ah remaining, and this is a 225ah, 24v bank. I did set (well, it auto-detected) that the bank is 24v. Is this normal?
Is that being read on/via the local App?
What was the fix that Roy helped you figure out ??
Did you update the firmware ? If so, go to the WB Jr. screen and press SETUP (soft-right key)
Then press MORE. Make sure the battery reference temperature is set to 25.0 degrees C and not 10.0 degrees C
just in case it defaulted somehow to 10.0 C. The software update should fix that but, just in case.
boB
PS... The order in which you turn on breakers should not matter to the Classic. Might matter for some
other reason I suppose...
That's as read from the faceplate display, West. Bob, the temp reads 17°c currently, I have not had the time for an update. I'm way offgrid and have no Internet signal for stuff like that, which means taking a ride to town to download to the laptop (or can my Android do it? ). The fix Roy tendered me in 30 seconds flat was that i had the wrong connection (was hooked into master, now it's on the top one). I thought the 150 was not fully powering Up but i didn't realize how quickly the fan and lights turn off after initial powering... with the faceplate being wrongly connected and not displaying anything, i was under the assumption it wasn't staying powered up. Aside from the ah question, everything seems dandy atm.
I don't see any battery temp parameters under that WB menu, bob. I take it that is an added option in the new update?
Blackwater, there are 25 threads if you search for '' Android Local app" not sure if it will do what you
want...
Yup, it sounds a bit like a drag race starting up when you power on your Cl150.. 8) 8)
When you do an update you need patience and be sure to follow the instruction step by step... otherwise you will get more grey hair than you want...
Well try to get that done tomorrow... I've earned a day off to town anyway, heh. In any event, even if the ah reading is incorrect, well the SoC% still be accurate?
I don't think so as it will be based on the bigger AH,
but your amps in and out of the battery will be right, if you can get that info...
Did you press enter after you reset the battery Ah? If not the new value is not saved.
In my problem crash, I came back after 2 winter months and the Classic showed a 12V battery BUT it is 24V.. LApp solved the problem :)
What's laPP? I just noticed i can change the actual ah value manually, but I'm to understand that new batteries take some cycling to get up to thier full potential, so I'm thinking that just changing it to 225 may still be inaccurate. The voltage readings are all correct for a 24v system though. Where is the menu to see what the nominal voltage setting is set to?
LApp is the Local App. It makes looking at the settings and changing them a lots faster as there is no need to press all those buttons on the MNGP (MidNite Graphics Panel)...
go here http://www.midnitesolar.com/
and it is right under Webinar, center of the page
Ah, thanks for clearing that up. If the local app is based off a wifi, i can't use it anyway, though i do have the app on my phone. A bluetooth function sure would be nice though :) i got a lot to read up on over the next couple days.
you can hardwire it , or use a wifi bridge to a modem, etc...
don't know if a Bluetooth from the phone to a bridge works..
there are also some videos mentioned on the MN home page that will help...