Hi, I notice when my controller is running at high current (60A) and the fan is going the temperature in the shed can be up to 30 deg when it's about 26 deg outside. This is measured with the remote temperature sensor normally on the batteries. i put the sensor just below the Classic intake vents at the bottom of the case.
Would 30 deg (C) be a bit hot and decrease the life span of the controller? I could add a 24 volt extract fan if necessary that would come on with my aux relay.
Thanks,
Hi asdex,
IMO, 30 C is not hot. Fans running on Classics is common. Those fans are high quality ones, and are primarily used to keep the temperatures inside the Classic roughly equal.
Having a relatively lower input voltage to the Classic will help to minimize its heating.
What is the nominal string Vmp to this Classic?
Vic
Asdex,
30oC ambient is warm, right now in West Auckland its 27 outside and at back of my garage, under house, its just on 26 where batteries, controllers etc are located. Later today, early evening that will get up to over 30 and stay that way until well after midnight.
You should look at the Classic's internal temps, FET and PCB.
FETs often run mid fifities here and pcb over fifty if output current exceeds 60Amps. Fans are usually going in Classic to bring temps down below 50.
This is all within normal operating range of Classic so I would not expect any problems or dramatic life shortening. I'd get some natural inflow in your shed, vents on roof and lower walls, additional fans inside will only push the hot air around
dgd
Just for comparison,
I have two systems side by side,
#1. Classic 150, 1980 watt bank of 12 Sharp NE-165 wired 3S 4P Combiner to Classic >260 feet! 8ga. Wire
#2 Classic 150. 2000 watt bank of 8 sharp NE-165 &4 Sharp NE-170 wired 2S 6P combiner to Classic < 15 feet 10 ga wire
System 1 VMP 105 v. System 2 VMP 70 v.
Classic one works much hotter, fans run twice as much. It makes a Hugh difference! Winter here so my temps are much cooler batts at 9 deg. C. FET's 45-48 deg C. Systems in unenclosed shed , plenty of ventilation. More than 12 SQ ft vent both ends of shed.
This is temporary as I am building new house here so panels are put out of the construction zone hence the loooong run on system one.......way over recommendation! The Classic is paying the price for that!
td
Thanks, I have added a roof top vent which is a meter of 150mm flue and a top hat from a woodburner.
The string VMP is 73.82 volts calculated on the Midnite sizing tool.I have seen 84.3 volts on the screen though.
Thanks,
I just replaced a couple of Xantrex solar controllers with a Midnite classic 150 so I' new to this equipment. I have 2500 watts of solar connected for an open circuit voltage of 116 volts and a 1760 AH battery bank at 24 volts. The FETs are running as hot as 70 C when I am generating 1800 watts and the input voltage falls as low as 72 volts @ 60 to 70 Amps. I read elsewhere on this forum that the FETs shut down at 80 C. Is there a way to help cool this unit down. Would it help to configure the battery bank to 36 or 48 volts? Are there any covers that can be removed to assist cooling
> I just replaced a couple of Xantrex solar controllers with a Midnite classic 150 so I' new to this equipment. I have 2500...
I thing the big problem is the panel voltage is WAY more than 2x the battery voltage. The larger the differential from PV to battery voltage, the hotter things run.
So, if you do not have mile long runs from the array to the controller, and can re-configure the array to maybe half the voltage it currently is (60V is more than enough to charge a 24V bank) that would reduce the heat. Wire gauge from the array to the controller is also a factor. Or maybe it's easier to get a 48V inverter and solve the heat issue that way!
You dont say what your ambeint is. Yes, high input voltages should be avoided unless your cable length is really nasty. Your also running that classic farily hard with 2500Wp. While the classic is fully able to limit and self protect from all these conditions, well as you found out, it will get hot. You can try adding an external fan, which is what others do. Either on 24/7, or triggered using Aux1 when needed. Would recomend either going to strings of 2 panels for 24V, or strings of 3 for 48V. And yes 48, will halve your current and make things much better.
Quote from: lsunell on February 01, 2016, 05:28:47 PM
I just replaced a couple of Xantrex solar controllers with a Midnite classic 150 so I' new to this equipment. I have 2500 watts of solar connected for an open circuit voltage of 116 volts and a 1760 AH battery bank at 24 volts. The FETs are running as hot as 70 C when I am generating 1800 watts and the input voltage falls as low as 72 volts @ 60 to 70 Amps. I read elsewhere on this forum that the FETs shut down at 80 C. Is there a way to help cool this unit down. Would it help to configure the battery bank to 36 or 48 volts? Are there any covers that can be removed to assist cooling
I am in Costa Rica so the ambient temperature is consistently 30 c. I have a Xantrex XW4204 inverter/charger so I'm stuck at a 24 volt battery bank. Looks like a re-wire of the solar panels is in order. 24 volt panels so would two in series for a open circuit voltage of 60 volts be a good match for the 24 volt battery bank? Thanks for the help with this.
So 30C ambeint, ...35C in the shed? If so, might look at how you can improve ventilation in there.
Yes pairs of either 60 cell panels is about as good as it gets for 24V bank. Your gona lose some watts here or there, but situations like yours better in teh cable than in the controller.
Reconfiguring that will provide a decent drop. After that if you still have issues, you can try setting some current limiting.
Forget cooling the room fix the issue with the high input voltage and it will go away. Just drop the PV input voltage way down. It's cooking its self with at that input voltage with a 24v battery.
I don't know why this potentially negative effect isn't mentioned in the User manual for the classics.
Something like.....(just my way of saying it).
While the classic is capable of charging a battery as low as 12v from a input voltage as high as 150v. More heat will be generated inside your controller if this voltage differential is excessive.
(then the line that wouldn't get the tick from marketing department)
The controller will run hot, fans will run excessively and overall it will shorten the life of the product in comparison to lower voltage differentials. You need to strike a balance between efficiency loss (heat) in your input cables and efficiency loss (heat) in your controller.
I know I would rather loose (try and dissipate) 40w of heat in 50 foot of cable than 40w of heat in a tiny aluminum box full of heat sensitive electronic components.
Then perhaps some kind of graph showing the efficiency loss at several voltage points above the required charge voltage.
I sure wish i was informed befor I wired one of my classics as with strings of 3s and had to deal with a hot controller. Even in a refrigerated (air conditioned) power room that 4200w at 3s (about 125v on a 48v bank) That Classic was working hot and fans always running. It was a BIG job rewiring that array back to 2s but worth the effort and the fans never run now.
Not having a dig just. I think this issue is something a lot of people could avoid if it was mentioned in the user manual. If for what ever reason people read it and look at the graph then still decide to charge there 12v battery with 150v input then at least they were informed of the negatives of doing so and only have them self to blame then if they need to reconfigure there entire array.
Kurt
Agreed. +1 for including that in the manual. Of course from a marketing perspective it kinda contradicts the "point" of high voltage controllers, and to a lessor extent mppt. Id really like to see a full set of efficiency curves, to enable users to make good decisions about their array configuration.
Also watching electodacus's forthcoming 3kW PWM controller with interest. It seems to me that for a given array that the MPP remains in a fairly tight band, and with 72 cell panels being readily available, PWM might even make some kind of come back.
However, Morningstars curves, in terms of DC converter efficiency (which you have to admit are quite exceptional) show clearly that the difference between 98V into 12V, and 98V into 48V is a whole 5 percent. 5% of say 2000W is 100W. Thats a LOT of heat for a small box.
I used the sizing tool before I did any panel connecting and it was spot on! As the panels only have a 31.2 voc it was not enough after loses to do the equalize on the 24 volt battery bank.
On a good clear warm day voltages are always just under 60 volts.
But I have noticed that even during heavy cover (cloud and rain) we have usable amps inputs with only 1760 watts of panels up.
What is the factory amps outputs default for the 150's set at?
Hi Russ,
From memory it's 86A on my classics running 48v.
I run lithium batterys so don't need high voltages for EQ. 56v (28v if it was a 24v system) is as high as I need to go on a daily basis with lithiums. Two series PV works perfect at around 65-80v depending on load and temp conditions it's more than enough to get the job done.
The thing is if you lower the input voltage you will have more loss in the cables but only at full output. If you increase the input voltage you will have heat in the controller at all output levels. In fact it's actually worse under light load.
Most offgrid systems spend most of the day at partial output (unless PV is on a tracker) even then in areas with good sun conditions and large arrays the systems spend a lot of the day just covering loads in float. So you wont see the efficiency loss in the cable as the amps are low.
I like MPPT controllers and I do see there is some advantages. Though I don't think they are a reason to ignore good practices when trying to match your PV voltage to your batterys highest necessary charge voltage. Doing so has benefits that shouldn't be overlooked.
Kurt
Another +1 for adding a PV voltage / Bat Volt Efficiency chart & note in the manual.
Quote from: zoneblue on February 16, 2016, 02:39:57 PM
Agreed. +1 for including that in the manual. Of course from a marketing perspective it kinda contradicts the "point" of high voltage controllers, and to a lessor extent mppt. Id really like to see a full set of efficiency curves, to enable users to make good decisions about their array configuration.
-1 Don't agree with that suggestion. There are just too many variables where temperature is concerned
and ambient temperature is IMO the most important.
The Classic does produce heat and its important that the heat can be removed or vented or wicked away from the Classic.
This applies to just about all heat producing electronics, thats why air-con computer rooms exist.
I personally use a 24v bank with C150 and PV input of 90v mpv from 5s 18v PVs. When the Classic unloads these in Abs and Float this rises to near 110v. (40m twin #4 from Classic to PV frame)
Even with 80+ Amps the Fets and pcb stay below 60c, fans running BUT then the ambient in power room is about 24c despite 30c+. outside in garden.
WIth average power making 45 to 60A the temps seem to stay about 50c
I'm convinced the fact the power room is below house, below ground level by 1.5metres and hence never gets above 25c or below 15c is the real solution to keeping Classics running cool or within their designed temp range.
Lowering input voltage seems counter productive to me, why then bother having 200v and 250v input Classics if the answer to Classic heating is to reduce input voltage to nearer battery voltage *2 (or whatever)
dgd
Removed for now Vic
sory Vic can't see the pdf!
walt
Hi Walt,
SORRY, I was busy deleting my post, and the .pdf, because I had guessed wrong on too many things ....
And, I had too many PVs.
SO, I should just ask Isunell for the Specs on the PVs being used, and the number of PVs per string, and the total number of strings.
Sorry for the mis-post. Thanks! Vic
Quote from: Vic on February 16, 2016, 08:14:11 PM
Hi Walt,
SORRY, I was busy deleting my post, and the .pdf, because I had guessed wrong on too many things ....
And, I had too many PVs.
SO, I should just ask Isunell for the Specs on the PVs being used, and the number of PVs per string, and the total number of strings.
Sorry for the mis-post. Thanks! Vic
NP just glad I didn't continue with further questions as you answered all. This is a great subject of interest to me! you all are helping me see the reality of it all! thank you!
Walt
Thanks Kurt,
Yeah I had a look after the post and it was around 86 amps which the PV array would never put out anyways.
My solar array at the reg shows 48.6 volts and the max I need is 31.0 volts for equalize.
So I can not get it any better for what I require with the 24 volt system.
Have get off my dot and get the other 12 panels up and forget about the extension to the roof out the back. It can wait a while.
I have concerns with the trojans as they show good charges, but the SG is never up to 1275 at any time. (On float at 10am most days)
The max input I get is 30-35 amps. With only 435 amp hour @ 24 volts it should be enough to keep the batteries well charged.
The highest consumption I have had on the standalone system is 5kw a day, 7am till 4pm when I switch it back to grid tie.
I am guna die with the heat and humidity here atm.
Sold some cattle today and it was 38 deg C and 85% R Humidity, crazy weather, worse than the Phillipines! :(
I do not want to hear about those lithiums mate! Lol. (green eyed monster)
>The thing is if you lower the input voltage you will have more loss in the cables but only at full output. If you increase the input voltage you will have heat in the controller at all output levels. In fact it's actually worse under light load.
Exactly right. If you have to kill 100W do it in the cable not the controller.
Quote from: zoneblue on February 17, 2016, 01:18:55 PM
>The thing is if you lower the input voltage you will have more loss in the cables but only at full output. If you increase the input voltage you will have heat in the controller at all output levels. In fact it's actually worse under light load.
Exactly right. If you have to kill 100W do it in the cable not the controller.
'have to kill :o
So this is all to do with Classic working temperature control, Now temperature is more important than efficiently generating power - to the point of seriously recommending reduction in input voltage despite the fact that the Classics are operating within their designed temperature range AND they have thermal shutdown capabiity if they get too hot.
And this is coming from people who are concerned about tare loads > 10 watts on other RE components.
(computers, inverters etc)
Has anyone lost a Classic due to sustained running hot within its allowed temp range?
Has thermal shutdown failed? Has MN rejected a warranty claim due to running near or at MAX power output resulting in a burnt out Classic?
What about a temperature controlled current Clipper controlled by an AUX to SSR that inserts a burn-off-power resistor into the input (PV) when a certain FET/PCB temp is approached or reached?
or using a pair or more cables in the +ve PV input and as Classic heats up an SSR disconnects one of the cables leaving the remainder to burn off power because of greater losses?
Or why not just solve the problem properly by cooling the Classic's environment, keeping the ambient operating environment at normal room temperature of 20c ?
Sorry couldn't resist this post and no offence intended toward anyonedgd
Wasan me!
Mine runs as close to usable voltage as possible.
I did see it peak a few times today at 57 volts, lol.
Reflection from passing clouds I suspect adding to intensity.
Personally not that worried about small losses atm.
Maybe if we were totally standalone it would be a different story! 8)
Even today the hottest I saw at the reg temp was 48deg C around mid-day and putting in 35 amps.
dgd, all i know is that the archiles of all electronics is electrolytics. And they hate heat, the hotter it gets the shorter their life. MMPT controllers rely on them. Ive replaced power caps in many a consumer item, that didnt need to be tossed, just because im stubborn. The cost effectiveness of RE isnt particularly flash as it is, and so longevity of the gear is a must.
zb,
I agree with you and it seems MN do too as they provide field replaceable parts for the Classic which no doubt includes the electrolytic caps board as well.
I figured that because I do diversion to water heating at the PV side of the Classic then this definitely helps it run cooler, more so now that I can divert 1400 watts of my 2800 watt pv array.
Maybe if I run all power through the Classic then I would see heating issues such as ogQ does.
I thought he was onto something with the pumped water heat exchanger on his Classics but he seems to have given that idea away :-\
dgd
It's not like i don't cool my classics. They are in a insulated block wall room small power room about 2.5m x 1.5m with a 2.5kw Samsung inverter split system air conditioner blasting freezing cold air at them all day every day from 1.5m away.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1533/24536738594_11a8a41408_n.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1455/25049151792_d59585bf45_n.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1719/25049142622_e06d08cfb6_n.jpg)
Both classics have 4000w of PV on them each. Even in a refrigerated room the classic that had 3s on it was a toaster. Its that inductor in the classic that gets hot and heats the inside of the classic up.
Like others and myself have mentioned. Caps and so on last longer with cool temps. Yes I know you can buy new caps (if they didn't take something down with them when they go) but I want a system that is living a easy life and will last a long time reliably.Yes I know the classic will be ok running hotter and it can handle it but Why give it a hard time.
I didn't buy the classic because it can handle high voltage input I purchased it because I realy like the reliability and charging features, WBJ, online monitoring , support and so on.
I see little difference in production at 2s vs 3s so its not like you are giving up much. PV is inexpensive CC are expensive and a pain if they are down for mantanance when your 100% offgrid.
Anyhow I guess we can just let people find out for them self. I just see some one who isn't informed might place a classic in a less than ideal location (hot location or confined location) then try and take advantage of some PV that they just happened to have (that is high voltage) and run 12V system. Then we get the post on the forum.....why do my fans run all the time why is the controller hot. If the input voltage vs battery voltage - heat correlation was at least mentioned this might be avoided.
One analogy could be purchasing a truck that is rated to tow 3 tons. In the manual there would be a mention that towing at full capacity is harder on the truck and it will require more mantanance and stress on the cooling system. This is common knowledge and a easy thing to understand..(weight = stress) most people get that. Though voltage conversion doesn't always register to people that it's hard work and the higher the discrepancy the harder the job.
Quote from: offgridQLD on February 21, 2016, 06:36:07 AM
Its that inductor in the classic that gets hot and heats the inside of the classic up.
That confirms what i always observed, that the left side of the classic is (counter intuitively) hotter than the right ( mosfets being on the right). I guess that means that larger gauge windings would help, right?
Couple of things;
After running our off grid system for about one year (this was eleven years ago), installed a window A/C in the power room, as the OB MX-60 CC's fan would run, often. The A/C reduced the MX's fan run time to almost zero. Really, a major reason for the A/C in the power room, was an effort to try to keep the batteries as cool as possible.
This system has run a 106 String Vmp, since day one, so is less efficient than a lower string voltage on this 48 V battery. This I did know during system design, bun wanted a fairly high String Vmp, to allow directly heating water with PV.
Here, the Classic's fans run often, even when ambient temps are 50 F or a bit below, mostly because of the high Vin to the Classics. But the power room is 225 feet from the residence, so it is not a problem in the living space.
To me, the Classic is the Swiss Army Knife of Solar electronics -- it does so many useful things that many/most other CCs simply cannot do, or need expensive options to do, less well than does the Classic without any options at all. And, many of us use these added functions that the Classic provides. All of this added functionality adds complexity, cost, and some added power consumption.
And, regarding the Classic Inductors ... There are several types of losses in switching system power inductors -- losses in the magnetic cores, losses in the conductors that create the required inductance, and some other parasitic losses, etc.
The magnetic materials in the cores have become very, very expensive, so there is a large pressure to minimize the size/amount of the magnetic material. AND, when the conductor becomes larger, a larger core is required to establish the required inductance, so, this is an additional factor in the quest to try to minimize core size, with the trade-off of higher losses (heat) in a somewhat smaller inductor. This economy allows MidNite to Include so many of the other functions that so many of us rely on.
Believe that the conductor in the Classic's main inductors is flat copper tape, which helps minimize losses in the inductor, and best utilize the more of the core.
Believe that a considerable amount of the heat from the inductor is sunk into the rear of the enclosure casting, and the fans try to circulate heat out of the enclosure, and stir the air inside to help more of the casting radiate and convect heat into the air surrounding the Classic.
In looking at the KID, is seems quite obvious that considerable effort was made to try to sink its inductor's heat into the casting. MidNite Engineering seems on top of Thermal Management in its products.
MidNite seems confident that the Classic will be a long-term performer, by backing it with a five year Warranty, with the ability to extend this warranty several years (IIRC).
The latest manual for the Classic that I've seen, DOES have the Classic Power Charts (or Graphs) which plot available maximum output current verses Input voltage to the Classic. This really does give one a fairly clear indication of the effect of high String Vmp on Classic output capability. Perhaps there should a bit of text that points the system designer to these charts, and some of their implications.
Have noticed that so many folks are DIYing their systems, often without any previous experience. So, perhaps a bit more explanation of the Vin tradeoffs might be in order.
I am not a MPPT CC designer, so some of the above may be a bit off target ...
But, am one of those BEGGING MidNite to get the Classic done and shipping, and the Classics have been a great improvement in the off grid power systems here. Am a bit of a MN Cheerleader, which is obvious!
Thanks MidNite!!
Just Opinions, FWIW, Vic
Yes not knocking that things are the way they are. I know from personal experience what the effects are and Just work with the +&- to find a balance that works for the particular installation. Personally I'm pedantic about keeping power electronics and lithium batterys cool so I will go beyond the norm to see that happen.
If I am after another 3rd controller it will be another classic so I'm happy with the product.
Remote Battery voltage sensing is about the only thing I would like to see in the future on the classic if i had a wish list.
Kurt
Quote from: offgridQLD on February 22, 2016, 12:40:18 AM
Yes not knocking that things are the way they are. I know from personal experience what the effects are and Just work with the +&- to find a balance that works for the particular installation. Personally I'm pedantic about keeping power electronics and lithium batterys cool so I will go beyond the norm to see that happen.
If I am after another 3rd controller it will be another classic so I'm happy with the product.
Remote Battery voltage sensing is about the only thing I would like to see in the future on the classic if i had a wish list.
Kurt
Hi Kurt,
Yes, sure do agree with the 'cooler is better' approach.
AND, also agree with the need/desire for the ability of the Classic, (and the KID) to be able to read actual battery voltage.
But, realize that MN needs to keep focused on the much larger segments of the RE hardware market -- as in Inverters.
Guess that we will need to be patient for a while longer.
Thanks for your read on things, Vic
One thing I will be doing to the mounting of both my classics is spinning up a few
1-2 cm long pieces of alloy tubing and moving the CC off the mounting board to allow
air flow behind the unit. This is a large surface area is is held close and snug to the mounting board and
so allows little air flow and heat dissipation. May not make a huge difference, but has to help with heat losses.
Any concerns about this practice?
Quote from: russ_drinkwater on February 24, 2016, 03:33:51 PM
One thing I will be doing to the mounting of both my classics is spinning up a few
1-2 cm long pieces of alloy tubing and moving the CC off the mounting board to allow
air flow behind the unit. This is a large surface area is is held close and snug to the mounting board and
so allows little air flow and heat dissipation. May not make a huge difference, but has to help with heat losses.
Any concerns about this practice?
Russ;
I did something similar with a stack of 3 or 4 washers when I installed the wall mounted Classic at the farm. Seemed to not be a problem and certainly should enhance cooling. Not sure of the "official" reaction to doing it. The others were on aluminum Epanels so no need with those.
Just from here.
Tom
Hello Tom,
Mine is mounted on 20mm ply wood and I just want to lift the unit off the wood and give it some breathing space.
I did the same to my mates elcheapo chinese inverter and it lasted years even after the cooling fan died and was replaced.
Can not do any harm in my opinion.
Quote from: russ_drinkwater on February 26, 2016, 03:25:31 AM
Hello Tom,
Mine is mounted on 20mm ply wood and I just want to lift the unit off the wood and give it some breathing space.
I did the same to my mates elcheapo chinese inverter and it lasted years even after the cooling fan died and was replaced.
Can not do any harm in my opinion.
Russ,
Any effort to increase heat removal is good. I mount the Classic on a section of 5mm plate aluminium about 30mm wider and taller than the Classic and then use 25mm spacers between the plate and plywood wall. A generous dollop of heat sink compound on back of Classic lets heat into the plate.
dgd
Russ I did just what you mentioned. My two controllers are mounted to 19mm form ply. I Turned up a few little 20mm aluminum stand off blocks for both controllers. It's just enough to slip your fingers behind the controllers and you could really feel the difference between the classic that was on 2s and the one on 3s. on the left hand side behind the inductors.
I have the air conditioner vents facing down to blow chilled air over the case and down the back of them.
I use the knockouts in the back of the case so all my cable runs out the back and just use the suplyed screened vent plugs on all the holes in the side and bottom of the case. To help with airflow.
Kurt
Yeah, I look at it like sleeping on a warm flannel sheet in summer time. No matter what you do you still get sweaty.
Air flow at all possible areas has got to help.
My setup is no where as neat as yours Kurt, lol.
I just do not want any geko's climbing into my reg in winter time! :o
Little turds will camp on the laptop screen in winter time for warmth >:( :o
I have been monitoring the battery temps and even on the hottest high humidity days we have been having they get to 27c.
Most of the time they hover around 25c.
Wife threw out the 48volt/100amp circuit breaker I have near the battery box the other day. The latronics 3kw unit had 2 fridges, 2 freezers, 1000 watt dehydrator running off the system and Chel switched on the 1200 watt electric toaster. All came to a sudden stop.
I though the inverter tripped out, but after 5 mins had a look and it was the battery lead circuit breaker. So we must have been drawing over 10 amps at 240 volts, lol.
These last few days I have been jealous of your batteries A/c room, lol.
Sweating like a pig with the atmosphere the way it has been.
The 8kw unit for our lounge room chews at the refund from the power company, lol. :o
Hey Kurt, is your clipper hydraulic for the cables?
If so and you think it will work on 1/2 inch copper pipe homemade cable ends please put it in your camper, lol.
Just want to see if the crimped ends are better than soldered ends. ;)
Is it an expensive unit or elcheapo evil bay type?
I often wonder whether the old style pure lead battery connecting straps would be a better less loss option?
Russ, took this last week in ICEland, it should cool you down...
Great photo Westbranch. With all that water, Ice and snow.Given the chance Russ would be rolling around in it lapping it up ;)
Russ my crimper is a 12ton hydraulic unit with dia sets for both electrical lugs and swagging stainless steel cable lugs. Max Lug size is 95mm2 or 000 gauge size. Its reasonably compact- small but I like that as its handy when you need to make a crimp in tight space.
It's a Ebay job but really as long as the dies are reasonably accurate what can go wrong. It's just a single action hydraulic cylinder. It came with a spare set of seals . I have done 100's of SS cable swaggers with it and a good 50+ large cable lugs for myself and friends without any issues to day still on the original seals.
Unless your swagging big steel cables for overhead lifting equipment or the like then the ebay units are fine.
It will crimp your 1/2 inch water pipe fine. Though if you want I can pack in some proper heavy wall tinned copper lugs for you and heat shrink over them and tart it all up for you ;D Crimping is safer then solder because if there is a short or very high load the cable could get hot and melt the solder. The crimper end up so tight it almost cold forging the copper together as one block.
If you take the wires out the back of the classic in flex conduit and install all the 4 little round screened plugs they provide. It helps cool air enter the bottom of the classic. Keeps the wiring looking neat and stop the bugs and lizards getting in.
Kurt
Quote from: Westbranch on February 27, 2016, 04:15:50 PM
Russ, took this last week in ICEland, it should cool you down...
WB, where in Iceland did you get the photo? I have a ton of Iceland if i could find them, mostly in slides. I spent time in Keflavik Photographing, hope to go back someday. Great photo!
Walt
it's the Gullfoss waterfalls... send me a pm with email if you want a few more
The only snow I have ever felt is the icy presence of women over the years when they are pissed at something! ;)
Looks great and I must get down to the snowies here in Oz before I am too old to have a bit of fun.
But I am sure I will be over it once my bones start aching, lol.
Your cable crimper sounds like the same one my mate George has Kurt.
I do have a crimper but it is a powder fired Dr. Blitzen brand made in Germany and god knows what it cost new.
It will crimp up to 2 inch lugs.
Have never used it since I picked it up in a 2nd hand shop "Cash Convertors".
I can send photos of heat waves and thermal shimmers if anyone wants some to put up over their bed in winter time over there
in the states????????
Or your battery boxes, Lmao. ;)
Quote from: TomW on February 24, 2016, 04:02:00 PM
Quote from: russ_drinkwater on February 24, 2016, 03:33:51 PM
One thing I will be doing to the mounting of both my classics is spinning up a few
1-2 cm long pieces of alloy tubing and moving the CC off the mounting board to allow
air flow behind the unit. This is a large surface area is is held close and snug to the mounting board and
so allows little air flow and heat dissipation. May not make a huge difference, but has to help with heat losses.
Any concerns about this practice?
Russ;
I did something similar with a stack of 3 or 4 washers when I installed the wall mounted Classic at the farm. Seemed to not be a problem and certainly should enhance cooling. Not sure of the "official" reaction to doing it. The others were on aluminum Epanels so no need with those.
Just from here. Tom
The new 100A magnum PT-100, has a back side "spider" spacer to get the controller off the back wall and use the acreage behind it for cooling. Haven't loaded it up yet, but it's also got a pair of fans inside. Don't know if they are screamers or loafers.
Before I went grid tie, I ran a small clutch of Classics.
They all had spacers (spelled stack of washers) between them and the Epanels they were mounted to.
Probably not needed as those Epanels were aluminum and probably dissipated heat very well compared to wall board or plywood type material.
I would say you have no worries doing that just be sure the fasteners get enough bite to hold the controller(s) securely.
Like you, I figured more was better when it came to airflow around the unit and I see no reason not to use spacers as it worked fine for me.
Just like vehicle mileage ratings, your results may vary.
Tom