I have the latest firmware. Cannot find the End Amp Setting. I do not see it in the charge menu. I don't have a whizbang yet. Arrives tomorrow.
Have you set AUX2 to WBJr. option?
Did you try / setup the LocalApp? The App makes headaches but it is much more comfortable then hangling thru menus for most important settings
Quote from: Matrix on October 22, 2017, 11:58:49 PM
I have the latest firmware. Cannot find the End Amp Setting. I do not see it in the charge menu. I don't have a whizbang yet. Arrives tomorrow.
YES, The EA setting is in the; Charge > Advanced Menu, on the left of that screen IIRC.
Then you will want to configure the WbJr Setup screend. Ask if you need additional help after installing the WbJr on theShunt.
The WbJr IS a terrific and very functional, inexpensive addition to MidNite CCs!
Vic
Thanks ... I found it in the Local App about 2 am this morning. The traced it back on the Classic Control screen today. It is not called End Amps on the LED ... I think that is why I could not find it.
Got the WhizBang installed today. Wow !! What fun. How accurate is that thing for info like Amp Hours used from your battery? If that is accurate, that alone makes it worth it's weight in gold.
Really enjoying the WhizBang Jr
that alone makes it worth it's weight in gold.
Yes it is worth that, and more! Enjoy
Matrix,
The Net Ah is very accurate. It is counted from the total Amp Hour (AH) going into and out of the battery.
If the battery was actually fully-charged in the previous charge cycle, this is a good indication of Net AH. BUT, of course there are many, many variables when trying to determine the AH Remaining, SOC, etc. For Lead Acid (LA) batteries, the Rate that current was removed from the battery is a very important variable, and its effect on remaining AH and SOC is very large. There are other variables that are difficult for we end-users to determine or know. The guess that we make regarding the battery AH Efficiency is also important, this varies, and is subject to battery aging ...
In addition, even if one knew just what were the main variables at one point, there are battery-aging effects, and the effects from battery temperature (high, low, average, etc), average/peak charge rates ... plus many others.
Just like living organisms, LA batteries are reasonably complex, and just one more relationship on our Off Grid llives.
And so on, FWIW, opinions, Vic
Quote from: Vic on October 25, 2017, 03:46:29 PM
Matrix,
The Net Ah is very accurate. It is counted from the total Amp Hour (AH) going into and out of the battery.
Cant fully wrap my head around Net Ah yet. Is that reset every day at a certain time ... or is it based on single cycle in and out ... or is it cumulative over time. Any feed back on that Net Ah figure would be interesting.
Hi Matrix,
When the Classic makes its transition from Absorb to Float (NOT, if you happen to Force Float), this Net AH display on the WbJr page in the Main Status menu> More, on the Classic LCD, or in the Local App (LA) is reset to 0. Because the Classic assumes that either the Absorb Time, OR the EA have been correctly set by the user, the battery IS fully-charged, so the Classic will begin tallying the charge and discharge currents (Net AH) into/out of the battery to help approximate the relative charge in the battery.
If we either Skip Days (set in the Advanced menu), OR if there is insufficient charge power on a given day to fully charge the battery, the SOC and Remaining AH will tend to drift from reality, due to all of the variables that affect LA batteries -- some of which were mentioned previously.
More later, Vic
Hey ... take me thru this one too. Just saw this tonight. I am very new at all this and have had the CC up for 10 days ... the WBJ since Monday. Tonight after the sun went down ... the Classic amps are 0 as expected as ... but the WBJ is reporting -4.2 amps. All day long the WBJ was under the Classic amps. And I set the End Amp End Point for transition from Absorb to Float off of the behavior of the WBJ amps and not the Classic amps.
Why is the WBJ reading -4.5 amps. Did I miss a calibration setting somewhere? Would I have have my Absorb End Point set to low?
Quote from: Matrix on October 25, 2017, 08:27:27 PM
... Why is the WBJ reading -4.5 amps. Did I miss a calibration setting somewhere? Would I have have my Absorb End Point set to low?
Hi Matrix,
All that the -4.5 means, is that the batteries are supplying that amount of current (Net) to your Inverter/loads. The first Status page for the WbJr shows the Net current flowing into/out of your batteries ...
FWIW, Good question, Vic
Good morning.
So thinking I am starting to get end amps etc set up and dialed in.
As I look at Net Ah this morning ... I am seeing -77 ah after a night of discharging.
System is 24v
Battery capacity is 435 ah and batteries are new (less than 15 cycles)
Classic reports I used 96 ahs
Classic reports battery charge is 77%
Actual resting voltage everything off including CC and inverter is 24.8v tested at the posts with DVM
So what is the Net Ah of -77 telling me.
Matrix,
The -77 Net Ah is saying that since the last full-charge (which resets the Net Ah to 00), the Net into/out of the battery is negative by 77 Ah, from the theoretical Capacity of 435 Ah.
Since you seem to still be using EA to end Absorb, keep an eye on the battery charge current in Absorb, verses the SG readings when in Float for that charge cycle (the same day that you were watching the tapering of battery charge current). The behavior of the battery bank can drift around a bit as the batteries break-in.
More later, Vic
Vic
Thanks Vic
Also, now that the day is over and charging cycle complete... The battery is saying 99% charged. But the battery went off absorb so I did another forced absorb.... And when that ended it still says 99%. And Ah iis 434. Is that due to a wrong setting in battery efficiency?
Matrix,
Battery temperature affects the Remaining Ah. A battery temperature that is below your set Reference temperature should show reduced Remaining Ah, but should not affect the SOC percentage.
When the Classic makes its own transition from Absorb to Float, the SOC should show 100%, and if the battery temp is below the Reference temp, the Remaining Ah would be reduced.
If there has been some loads on the system that exceed the PV's power production, the battery will supply some current for the loads, and could result in the SOC to be reduced.
One added note; when the CC is unable to supply enough power to maintain the Float (or EQ) voltage, you will see a " -MPPT " at the end of the charge stage shown on the Classic LCD display, or on the Local App (LA). You will also note that the Vflt (or Veq) will be somewhat lower than would be the case if there was not that -MPPT on the charge stage indication.
So, perhaps you did not happen to see the display just as the CC went to Float, to note the SOC and Remaining Ah at that time ... perhaps the CC did not have enough PV power to maintain the full-charge status, and the battery was discharged a bit in the interim, before you looked at the LCD/LA.
Just some guesses, perhaps I am missing some other reasons.
FWIW, Vic
I am using the Classic Monitor App and the Midnite Solar Local App. The Classic Monitor App displays a lot more for the Classic 150's info. And this is where I am reading the SOC as 99% (which I would assume would be the same on the classic 150 displaly screen).
But it has nothing to do with the Battery Efficiency setting? Or some other setting?
I broke my glass Hydro 2 days ago. I ordered a Temp Comped Hydro Volt and it arrives tomorrow. I think it will be a bit more durable and a bit more readable. I have not idea of the Accuracy of that unit. But I had no idea of the accuracy of my glass temp comped unit either.
Also ... back to End Amps specifically as it relates to charge and 100% charge. Is it even possible I am getting a full charge up from 75% in less than 4 hrs at a max of 45-54 amps max during the bulk charge stage?
Have you ever recorded the Ah used overnight and the Ah replaced by the end of the day?
This data is available via the Local App and also the Android version you mentioned.
Quote from: Matrix on October 27, 2017, 09:59:16 PM
Also ... back to End Amps specifically as it relates to charge and 100% charge. Is it even possible I am getting a full charge up from 75% in less than 4 hrs at a max of 45-54 amps max during the bulk charge stage?
YES !! In theory, about 3 hours would do it, using 45 A/hour, true 435 Ah Capacity and about 85% charge Efficiency, and given that that 45 amp/hour is all going into the battery (as reported by the WbJr).
IMO, Vic
Quote from: Matrix on October 27, 2017, 07:02:26 PM
... I broke my glass Hydro 2 days ago. I ordered a Temp Comped Hydro Volt and it arrives tomorrow. I think it will be a bit more durable and a bit more readable. I have not idea of the Accuracy of that unit. But I had no idea of the accuracy of my glass temp comped unit either.
Sorry to hear about the glass Hydro breaking.
The HydroVolt is considered good and accurate. I did buy several to test, when MidNite just began distributing them. Have seen two of them that would not give a reading until they were gently banged a bit on the cell's vent tube. The only other issue was that the sample tube was several inches TOO SHORT for batteries with a large reserve electrolyte capacity (space above the plates, like the Surrette 5000 series). So no sample could be drawn, unless the batteries were over-filled with electrolyte. Went back to using the tried and true Freas glassworks Hydros.
Just make absolutely certain that you rinse the HydroVolt three or four times with Distilled Water, as there is a lot of surface area that contacts electrolyte, and all of this must be thoroughly rinsed away, else, Accuracy will be affected.
I had no reason to believe, that when the scales move after taking a sample, that the HydroVolt was anything but accurate ... yea kinna inverted multi-negatives.
FWIW, just my experience from about three, or so years ago. Vic
Well got the Hydro Volt today. Hmmmm ... not sure if its my ineptness or just what ... but I would get 4 different numbers from 4 different attempts in the same cell. Is that the Temp Comp just settling in? One time it would be 1285, then .. 75, ... then ... 80. Tapping seemed to help. And after about 3-5 samples it seemed it would level off and be consistent. :-\
I did notice a few things about the Hydro Volt:
1. You have to squeeze the ball really hard and flat. Even though the glass view was full, it seemed the more liquid I could get in it (beyond the glass view) the more better it read.
2. Air bubbles will trap around the bottom of the pointing needle. That (it would seem to me) would make the floating needle float higher. Tapping seemed to fix it ... but made me wonder if there were other bubbles floating in places behind the multiple moving parts I could not see.
So I am not sure if I got a bad one ... or if its me ... or is that just the nature of this kind of Hydro. I may send it back and order another glass one ... but I cannot hardly read it ... so I would be just about as inaccurate with it.
As to my cells. In a 12 day old 24v 4 series battery bank, is it common at full charge after an EQ that you would have cells ranging from 1276 to 1285? Most were just below or nearest 1280 ... but 5 cells were odd ducks either hi or low of 1280.
Would checking SG while charging in bulk mode effect this? Effect over all SG upwards? Trojan says my SG at 100% should be 1277. I would guess that testing while charging in Bulk would have an upwards effect. But by how many point I dont know. But I am more concerned / interested in why there is such a swing in the cells ... from the 1276 to the 1285. I had 2 cells at 1285 according to the Hydro Volt.
Hi Matrix,
Believe that I gave the following Link about measuring SGs from Surrette battery in another Thread:
http://support.rollsbattery.com/support/solutions/articles/4347-measuring-specific-gravity
Please read it carefully. The only difference between your Trojan batteries vs Surrettes is that the SG vs SOC table in the Linked article are a bit different (Surrette uses 1.265 SG electrolyte in their Soar batts, and Trojan 1.277 for full charge), and the reference temp for Trojan is 80 F.
YES you should draw and expel two or three samples, and take the reading on the following sample.
Regarding the air bubbles, perhaps the new Hydro will settle in with repeated use.
Air bubbles are the enemy of accurate readings (in general). If gently tapping the HydroVolt dislodges them, then it is probably a good idea to tap.
Many users of the HydroVolt like them a lot, so do try to give it a good trial.
Would not bother taking SGs during Bulk, as in Bulk the batteries are not fully-charged. As you probably know, the SG of the electrolyte is a direct indication of the SOC of that cell. During Bulk, one would expect that the battery SOC would generally be lower that of a fully-charged battery. Also, during Abosrb (by definition for Flooded batteries), this is the common charge stage where cell Gassing occurs. This gassing is good, as it helps mix the electrolyte. During battery discharge, the electrolyte can become Stratified (higher SG electrolyte sinks toward the bottom of the cells). Gassing helps reverse this, because gassing causes bubbling all over the plates, and mixes electrolyte. EQing Flooded batteries creates even more vigorous gassing, so better mixing yer (among other things).
Forget just how much PV power you have, but trying to cycle your batteries somewhat below 80% SOC on occasion is probably a good idea. Would try to get them down to about 60% on occasion, especially in the first month or two.
It is fairly common to see SGs vary more during battery break-in than after.
Guess that you have not needed to add any Distilled Water to the bank yet. Sometimes SG readings can be a bit high if those cells are a bit low on water.
Keep at it. It is very good that you are paying close attention to your new battery bank.
Vic
Yes the water is (and has been from the factory) full. And from day 1, it is actually slightly over filled. The Trojan User Guide says 1/8" below the bottom fill tube, but all the cells are probably an 1/16" to 1/8" over the bottom fill tube. Wondering if I should remove some "water". I had thought they would "boil" out pretty quickly, but they have not.
Also, starting to get a feel for the Hydro Volt. I think it will be OK. At least I can read it.
I read over at Battery University that .010 is acceptable for a variance between cells. So my swing of 1.276 - 1.284 is OK.
And still working with End Amp and Absorb voltage ... today was full sun. Woke up to a 74% usage and by 1pm the system went into float. At 4:30pm I checked the SG. The classic amp was reporting a 100% charge ... but the SG was 1.260% which is just over 90%. So I am ...
1. Moving the Absorb charge up .2 from 29.4 to 29.6
2. Moving the End Amp down from 5 to 4.5
Is that too much too fast?
Matrix,
Do NOT remove electrolyte from any cells. Your electrolyte levels sound fine. Battery temperature and charge stage has some effect on the relative height of the electrolyte -- bubbles from cell gassing caused the level of the electrolyte to rise.
There are normal variations in cell SGs, water consumption, etc. When trying to determine SOC, using your Hydrometer, measuring SGs when the battery has been in Float for 1 - 2 hours is often recommended. Of course, we do measure SGs during the EQ process, which is a different thing.
Fine on the changes to Vabs and EA. Cycling the battery often helps stabilize some of the early variations that one sees in battery behavior.
Look to the Trojan battery manual for recommendations on charging/EQing/maintaining YOUR batteries. Different battery manufacturers have different guidelines and recommendations.
Hope that the HydroVolt will work out for you. FWIW, Vic
Matrix, if you really want to know what the effect on a specific parameter change is you should only change one factor at a time.. Nothing wrong with adjusting 2 at the same time , but seeing as you are just starting it would be a good part of the learning curve to do them separately IMHO... ;)
if you are not using water, you are not charging enough
Quote from: Westbranch on October 29, 2017, 07:00:49 PM
Matrix, if you really want to know what the effect on a specific parameter change is you should only change one factor at a time.. Nothing wrong with adjusting 2 at the same time , but seeing as you are just starting it would be a good part of the learning curve to do them separately IMHO... ;)
Thanks ... that is a good idea. I think I will dial it back to one parameter at a time.
Quote from: mike90045 on October 29, 2017, 09:44:51 PM
if you are not using water, you are not charging enough
I kinda thought that might be the case. But the battery bank has only been in service for 12 days now. I am on a learning curve. I don't want to baby the batteries, but also dont want to prematurely kill them either.
Here is where I am tonight. We got full sun today with a cloudless sky in N Florida, the Classic 150 charged for about 4 hours and reported 100% charged. But when i check the SG ... it was down ... to 1.258 ... or 90% according to Trojan. The Hi temp today was 68* F. My understanding is that i have the temp compensation set correctly in the Classic CC and that it should compensate for the Temp variances + or - 77*F. I have temp compensation set to -5 in the CC.
So to get the charge up. I switched on the Inverter's charger. But it keeps switching out of Bulk and Absorb pretty quickly, and my SG is not getting above 1.260 (should be 1.277 for fully charged). The Inverter's Charger DOES NOT have Temp compensation.
The Out Side Ambient Temp in the Room is now 50* F. So my question is:
1. The Hydro Volt has built in Temp Compensation. So that means what it reads should be correct no matter what the temp is correct?
2. Trojans FAQ page says "Trojan recommends using the following: For every 1º F below 77º F add 0.0028 volts per cell " But they never say ... is that Battery Temp ... or Ambient Room Temp?
- My battery is at 60*F using the Schneider Temp probe on the Neg terminal
- My room is at 50*F
- Do I compensate for 60* or 50* ... 77-60= 17 or 77-50=27 ?? (I know, a dumb questions, but it is not clear to me)
3. From my above setting in the CC ... do I have the right value set in the Temp Compensation for the CC based on the above quote from Trojans FAQ page on Temp comp of .0028 per cell for every 1*?
So far with an ambient room temp of 50* F I cannot get the battery SG to rise above 1.260 using the Hydro Volt. But I only just 10 minutes ago did a battery comp for 60* F and am going to see what the charge does when it finishes again.
An offf the wall question, have ALL the wiring connections been re torqued after the system was put in place?
Copper, under compression, has the characteristic to 'flow' when screwed down...
Quote from: Westbranch on October 29, 2017, 11:47:28 PM
An offf the wall question, have ALL the wiring connections been re torqued after the system was put in place?
Copper, under compression, has the characteristic to 'flow' when screwed down...
Yes, twice now.
what about the cable end crimps? Factory made?
Have you taken a SG reading in the morning wand compared that to the 75% +- SoC reading you get?
It appears that the Charger is doing the same as the Classic and both 'see' a near full battery.
A bad cable? Do you have a clamp on Amp meter?
what about the cable end crimps? Factory made?
No but they seem very solid. Crimps where done with This (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1UUVT0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a hammer
Have you taken a SG reading in the morning and compared that to the 75% +- SoC reading you get?
Not Yet ... I am still building data and a spread sheet for this
It appears that the Charger is doing the same as the Classic and both 'see' a near full battery.
The charger seems to be getting it fully charged. Only has nite when it was 50* could I not seem to get the batteries up over 92% charged. I am planning on using the charger today to charge from 70% and see if it actually pulls the batteries up full, but last Saturday it was no problem. The SG from the charger went up to 1.280 at the end of charge.
A bad cable? Do you have a clamp on Amp meter?
Yes ... I could put that on the cable and test to see if the amps are actually going into the batteries as stated on the charge controller screen.
Hi Matrix,
YES, -5mV/C/Cell is the correct temp compensation for your Trojans. The noted compensation from the Trojan data sheet, is for degrees F.
A Hammer Crimper CAN make good crimps. On a single string of batteries, when using a Classic, the Clamp DC Ammeter may not be of great use.
You CAN measure the voltage drops in the cables with a Digital MultiMeter (DMM). You can then compare the voltage drop on that cable's connections, by measuring the voltage drop between the two battery terminals that that cable connects to. It is best to do these measurements during Bulk, or when there are fairly heavy loads on the inverter -- you want fairly heavy current flowing in those battery interconnects.
Please measure each battery's terminal voltage, and record these. You want fairly heavy current flowing to or from the battery for this measurement, too. The absolute voltage is not so important for this, just looking for the voltage difference between each battery (measuring how well matched they are).
You still should do an EQ charge when the battery is as well-charged as you can get it.
Earlier, I did Link an article from Surrette (Rolls) -- Measuring Specific Gravity -- please read and study this document. You want to draw three samples and take a reading from the fourth draw. Usually one takes two samples and reads the third but since there is some question try 3 draws/read the 4th for now.
AND, STILL, your batteries are young. Cycling them will help them stabilize.
Since you are charging batteries, Temp Compensation is for the temperature of the battery.
Place the Battery Temperature Sensor/s (BTS) half way down the case of a single battery near the center of the bank.
Since there is some question about the accuracy of the SG readings you are finding, perhaps buying a glass Hydro or two, at a NAPA, or other car parts store.
If your batteries are truly not being fully-charged with the settings in the Classic and Inverter, usually one would increase the Vabs (since you are running as much as four hours in Absorb).
Forget just where your Vabs is 29.4, changed to 29.6 (?).
IMO, at this point, there was not a large issue in you changing Vabs and Absorb time, by the small amount that you did ... Your EA, Vabs and Absorb times will probably still be somewhat different than what will be needed when the bank is fully broken-in.
Thanks for the Signature line. Assume that the SW 4024 inverter is the current generation Schneider model ... think that it may be known as the Conext SW 4024?
Later, back to work, Vic
Yes it is the Conext SW from Schnider. It has A production date of June 2017 with the latest firmware. More later. Hope to test Thursday.
The charger seems to be getting it fully charged. Only has nite when it was 50* could I not seem to get the batteries up over 92% charged.
DO you have an adjustment value in with the Battery specifics for (the field name evades me right now, it it shown in the Local App)? But this is not the TEMP adjustment figure for use with the RTS or BTS...
OK ... so I thought I had the End Amps and Absorb set so that my batteries would be charged fully on a Sunny day. But now ... it seems I keep switching from 2-3 hours of absorb, the it goes back into Bulk MPPT and never goes to float. Why am I switching back to Bulk?
Battery bank is 4 L16H-AC 435Ah that were 31% discharged this morning.
Settings
31.1 Absorb volts (manufacture is 29.6v but at 29.6v the batteries never fully charge)
5.5 End Amps
Edit:
And now 5 minutes later it is in Float? Why did it go from Absorb - to - Bulk MPPT for just about 3 minutes - to - Float?
I am wary of a BTS bolted to the same terminal that 40A of battery current flows through, there WILL be self-heating of the terminal and the bolted wire joint.
Tape the BTS to the middle of the case of a embedded battery, and tape a chunk of Styrofoam over it, is a more accurate sensing method
Matrix, in your description it sounds like you are changing the settings and then watching for any changes....is that what you are describing?
So, if you are not changing any values at that time the drop from absorb to Bulk MPPT can be caused by/ from a cloud that drops the solar insolation momentarily and the CC has to use MPPT to hold the Voltage as close to the Absorb value but can not do it, it drops back to the previous stage, ie BULK
When is followed by an ''edge of cloud effect'' ... when the suns rays first come from behind the cloud and you get sunshine and cloud refracted sunshine hit the PV's at the same time... and it spikes the incoming voltage.... I've seen it once and do you ever get a boost in production for a second or 2...
hth....
ps Mike has a good point about the post heating issue and you may be chasing a couple of things at the sane time
Thanks. My midnight temperature sensor is on the battery case.... my Conext SW battery sensor is on the negative post. that's where it says to connect it in the manual but it is not part of the charge controller
And Yes ... I am setting the charge settings by the SOC from the previous day ... but I am not adjusting the settings during any one day's cycle ... and we have had great weather for it the past week. Almost perfectly cloudless days. So from one day to the next ... my available solar power conditions has been almost exactly the same.
I take it from the above that you are moving the charge parameters daily, up and down.
I remember in another forum that they recommended that you wait for a stable / same 'output / result' for 3 consecutive days before making another adjustment, I assume that allows for variances in incoming power and usage / consumption day to day.
The bigger the bank the longer to stabilize... once broken in....
OK great idea. Point taken
Quote from: Matrix on November 04, 2017, 03:47:37 PM
OK ... so I thought I had the End Amps and Absorb set so that my batteries would be charged fully on a Sunny day. But now ... it seems I keep switching from 2-3 hours of absorb, the it goes back into Bulk MPPT and never goes to float. Why am I switching back to Bulk?
Battery bank is 4 L16H-AC 435Ah that were 31% discharged this morning.
Settings
31.1 Absorb volts (manufacture is 29.6v but at 29.6v the batteries never fully charge)
5.5 End Amps
Edit:
And now 5 minutes later it is in Float? Why did it go from Absorb - to - Bulk MPPT for just about 3 minutes - to - Float?
When you say. ... " But now ... it seems I keep switching from 2-3 hours of absorb, the it goes back into Bulk MPPT and never goes to float. Why am I switching back to Bulk? ..."
you must be saying that on one day, the Absorb is 2 hours, and on another day it is 3 hours ??
If the DOD of the battery varies from day-to-day, then the Absorb time will vary, when using EA as the terminator of Absorb. BUT, it is quite unlikely that one day the Absorb time would 2.00 hours, and the next it would 3.00 hours ... should almost NEVER be an even number of hours, unless Absorb is being terminated by the Absorb time setting you have set, AND you have changed this setting from one day to the next.
31.1 Vabs is quite high. And, as the Vabs is raised, more the batteries Accept a higher current for a given SOC. SO, it is possible that your 5.5 A EA might NEVER be reached before your Abosrb time is reached.
1. ONCE AGAIN, I DO WONDER ABOUT THE ACCURACY OF THE SG READINGS YOU ARE SEEING. Why not buy one or two additional Hydrometers at an Auto Parts Store, as see what they have to say about the battery SG readings?
2. Have you read that article, "Measuring Specific Gravities" From Rolls Surrette?
Are you following that procedure when taking your SG readings ?? ?
Several things can cause the CC to revert to Bulk, from Absorb. These all revolve around having insufficient PV power available at that time to charge the batteries AND supply any loads on the system (inverter). Clouds can cause this, increases in loads, some shading, and the sun moving lower in the sky, etc.
Your batteries are young. It is not essential at this point to fully charge your batteries each day. BUT it will be good to try to determine IF the batteries are actually being fully-charged and the SG measurements do not quite reflect this, OR what else might be going on.
As has been mentioned several times before, you can watch the battery charge current on the WbJr Status screen. This will help tell you when the batteries will Accept no more charge for that Vabs. This does not necessarily say that the batteries are fully-charged when this current essentially stops decreasing, just that the batteries will not be charged very much more with additional time spent in Absorb.
It does appear that you want to get a lot done in a short time period. BUT, just trying to figure out if you can fully-charge your batteries with your system and loads, and if not, then to make some appropriate changes to do so.
One additional note; there have been many things suggested by many members here. Seems to me, that frequently, there are not too many answers to questions, or feedback from suggestions. This makes things a bit difficult to keep track of, and tends to have some of us make those same suggestions again, and perhaps again. OR, to ask the previous questions once again ...
Possibly trying to find out if your batteries are actually being fully-charged on most every day would be a great place to start. Then we could move on to other things.
BTW, agree with Mike, place any/all BTSes on the same battery, covered with 1 -2" thick Styrofoam sheet.
Just my opinions, Good Luck, Vic
Hi vic thanks. Yes I have read the How to test SC you linked. Learning so much.
And No this switch from Absorb to Bulk happened in the same charge cycle. I was checking via the WBJ and local app to see if the batteries had gone into float this afternoon about 3pm after about 6 hours of charging. I was thinking "it's probably getting close" and was going to check the SG. I opened the app and the charge was in Bulk MPPT. Not knowing how long they had been back in bulk and knowing that they had been in Bulk this morning and made the switch to Absorb about 12:30pm ... I opened up the My MidNite online logging and realized that the batteries had just gone back into bulk about 5 minutes before I had opened the app to check. I waited about 10 more minutes and the charger went into float, passing thru absorb from Bulk MPPT but all this switching - from the nice 2-3 hour absorb, then to bulk, to absorb, and then to float - took about 10 minutes. Just seemed like odd behavior under blue cloudless skies.
I went and checked the SG ... and the batteries were at 1.290 with a +4 temp comp reading. :o Too charged. Trojan says 100% should be 1.277. So I will watch tomorrow and see if the SG is still too hi after charging and may adjust my Absorb volts and/or End Amps accordingly. But will probably do as others have suggested here and watch it for a few days 1st.