I had just finished configuring my two classics for "follow me" and was powering up the master when I had brain fade and turned on the PV breaker before the battery breaker. I quickly realized my mistake and turned it back off, total time on was probably 2 to 3 seconds.(with bright sunlight). I then powered up the controller and everything was normal. 30 seconds or so later I turned on PV and again all was normal and charging. Then I made my second mistake, the cover at this time was hanging from the one screw and I started to refit it without turning off the controller. I managed to press several buttons in the process causing the display to read "unused address 12" with the red yellow & green led"s on. What ever I tried I couldn't get back to where I was and only managed somehow to change the 12 for 255. I tried doing a factory software reset but that didn't help. After adjusting the parameters and pressing send the screen reads 4136 502 and underneath 255 and nothing more. I tried doing a factory hardware reset but the led's that are supposed to flash don't. My question is have I screwed the pooch and need to send it back to Midnite for repair or is it something I can fix at home and if so how?
I doubt you broke anything.
Turning the PV breaker on before the Classic is powered up with the battery breaker shouldn't cause any problems.
As far as whatever you accidently changed - not sure .
How did you do the VMM factory reset ? Did you hold down the Right and Left arrows while powering up the Classic ? If so it should prompt you to go through the battery setup again. Make sure the clock is set to the right time.
I have never used follow me so not familiar with it. But perhaps you want to reset both Classics , not just one of them.
What firmware versions do the Classics have on them ?
Larry
Hi Toby, welcome to the Forum.
When doing the VMM, Classic Reset, it is a good idea to leave the battery breaker off for 30, or so seconds ...
So you did the Hardware Jumper Reset, And, you did follow the instructions, listed below, EXACTLY (?):
The way to do the hardware version of the factory restore (VMM)is as follows. There are 4 sets of jumpers directly above the blue terminal block. For the purpose of this we will call the left most jumper JP1 and the right most JP4 (actually labeled "Boot") •Step 1- Turn the PV and Battery power off to the Classic and remove the front cover
•Step 2- Locate the 2 jumpers JP1 and BOOT (JP4). Take the actual jumpers and keep them in your hand
•Step 3- Turn the Battery power on to the classic
•Step 4- within 1 minute place jumper JP4 on its two pins and then place jumper JP1 on its two pins. at this point the 3 leds on the top of the circuit board should flash back and forth for about 60 seconds.
•Step 5- After the flashing stops power down the classic and remove JP1 and JP4 and stow them back on a single pin like they where.
•Step 6- Put the front cover on and power up the Classic Lite. If you have the MNLP set to Custom you will need to go to the local app and reset the battery voltage and setpoints etc.
So you did stow the two jumpers only on one of the two pins?
Are the MNGP cables in the correct, top connector?
You might as well disconnect the FollowMe cables at this point, to see if there is any change.
You might try doing the Hardware Reset again, and just make certain that the jumper blocks are on the correct pins, and connected in the correct order.
It is unlikely that the Classics have been damaged by the PV/Battery breaker sequence. It is possible, that the unpainted part of the Classic case may have touched something that it should not have touched, but would expect that the metallic case was floating, so then, it would probably have to have made contact twix two points on a circuit board that should not have been shorted together ... seems a bit unlikely, IMO.
Do not have a Classic right at hand, now ... thinking a bit about this ...
FWIW, Vic
Assume that neither of the Classics is a Classic Lite.
Try removing the FollowMe cables
Hum that 4136 is the register for the Modbus TCP Port and 502 is the correct default for that. The Classic Modbus Address should be set to 10. Don't know if any of these settings where changed for Follow Me to look at the second Classic.
I would think the Software and the Hardware Resets would put all the registers back to default. But if the Classic Modbus Address is set to something other than 10 maybe it's trying to read the otter Classic. The Classic latest manual tells you how to set this under Addressing the Classic.
Just guessing have no clue. But Vic is right disconnect all follow me cables, Disable FM in Tweaks Menu on both Classics and make sure the MNGP is plugged into the correct jack.
boB has lots of secret button pushes to change things,
Hi Guys, Thanks for the help, unfortunately so far no luck.
The first thing I did when things went south was to disconnect the follow me leads to get them out of the equation.
The VMM factory reset gets the the "sending data" point but doesn't send it. Presumably because the address to send it to is not correct.
The worrying part for me is when doing the hardware / jumper reset the led's don't flash. I turn on the battery breaker, fit one jumper on the RH pins marked boot followed by another jumper on the LH pins marked JP1 leaving the four center pins exposed
and nothing happens....
MNGP is plugged into the top socket.
The cover definitely didn't touch any part of the circuit board.
I can't change the address back to 10 because I can't get to that screen :-(
Thanks again for the time you have all taken to help me.
Richard.
Hi Richard,
This situation seems to be beyond my pay grade.
Have you ever used the MidNite Local App to view and control your Classic? If so, perhaps you might be able to reconfigure the Classic, but I am not the person that knows what would need to be changed ...
Have only seen a Classic hung, "Sending Data", or similar, when the Firmware Update for the MNGP did not work. Under this condition, the Hardware jumper reset got the Classic unhung, and the Update on the MNGP could be re-tried.
Good Luck, Vic
Hi Richard
So the MNGP is stuck on the sending data screen. Vic is correct the only time I've seen that is when doing a firmware update. Believe that HW reset is somewhat time sensitive within 1 minute for step 4
The way to do the hardware version of the factory restore (VMM)is as follows. There are 4 sets of jumpers directly above the blue terminal block. For the purpose of this we will call the left most jumper JP1 and the right most JP4 (actually labeled "Boot")
Step 1- Turn the PV and Battery power off to the Classic and remove the front cover
Step 2- Locate the 2 jumpers JP1 and BOOT (JP4). Take the actual jumpers and keep them in your hand
Step 3- Turn the Battery power on to the classic
Step 4- within 1 minute place jumper JP4 on its two pins and then place jumper JP1 on its two pins. at this point the 3 leds on the top of the circuit board should flash back and forth for about 60 seconds.
Step 5- After the flashing stops power down the classic and remove JP1 and JP4 and stow them back on a single pin like they where.
Step 6- Put the front cover on and power up the Classic Lite. If you have the MNLP set to Custom you will need to go to the local app and reset the battery voltage and setpoints etc.
Sounds like you have done this but the leds do not flash on step 4. Make sure you place the pins back on within 1 minute of turning the power back on the Classic. Believe that is critical and hard to do.
I'd log a trouble ticket with MN and wait until Monday and give them a call and see if they have any suggestions.
Quote from: Tobytaylor on January 08, 2017, 11:33:58 AM
Hi Guys, Thanks for the help, unfortunately so far no luck.
The first thing I did when things went south was to disconnect the follow me leads to get them out of the equation.
The VMM factory reset gets the the "sending data" point but doesn't send it. Presumably because the address to send it to is not correct.
The worrying part for me is when doing the hardware / jumper reset the led's don't flash. I turn on the battery breaker, fit one jumper on the RH pins marked boot followed by another jumper on the LH pins marked JP1 leaving the four center pins exposed
and nothing happens....
MNGP is plugged into the top socket.
The cover definitely didn't touch any part of the circuit board.
I can't change the address back to 10 because I can't get to that screen :-(
Thanks again for the time you have all taken to help me.
Richard.
Yeah I had that problem with not sending data to mngp on firmware update awhile ago. Doing the hardware VMM fixed it. You may want to try reloading the firmware also . What firmware version were you running ?
Like Vic says - can you still log into it with Local Status App ?
Larry
Hi guys,
I have used the local app before but the classic needs to be running for it to work, it says Device not available.
I loaded the latest firmware a couple of weeks ago and all was fine. After the problem I tried to uploaded the firmware again just to see, and the computer tells me that the classic is turned off.... so of course that got me nowhere.
I think opening a ticket with Midnite is my best option at this point.
I'll let y'all know what happens for you interest and knowledge for the future.
Thanks again for your time and help.
Richard.
When you plug the Classic into your computer for update you may want to take a look at Device Manager in Windows and make sure that it didn't reasign it to a different port for some reason. I think the firmware update always looks for it on port 8 .
Larry
pardon the newbie question but what about taking the MNGP from the second classic and swapping it to see if the issue stays? Perhaps the classic is fine and the MNGP bricked. If it did fix it and the second classic was put in follow me, could you run the system with only one MNGP while the other was sent for repair?
Quote from: Sunshine on January 09, 2017, 02:27:03 AM
pardon the newbie question but what about taking the MNGP from the second classic and swapping it to see if the issue stays? Perhaps the classic is fine and the MNGP bricked. If it did fix it and the second classic was put in follow me, could you run the system with only one MNGP while the other was sent for repair?
I agree also , but when you see the Norm as above all answer the same as predicted , master members ,,Mahhhhhhhhhhh.
Yet aging do a Factory reset with a swapped MNGP and see if it's the hang of the Panel , PLUS ask the firmware of the classic & the MNGP because they are all NOT compatible..
But then again , Im learning still
VT
Quote
I agree also , but when you see the Norm as above all answer the same as predicted , master members ,,Mahhhhhhhhhhh.
Yet aging do a Factory reset with a swapped MNGP and see if it's the hang of the Panel , PLUS ask the firmware of the classic & the MNGP because they are all NOT compatible..
But then again , Im learning still
VT
Wouldn't they need to be on the same firmware in the first place to have been being used in follow me? I assume that they would. Ug, this is complicated.
It is more so, as the FW, MNGP and Net connection software (FW) do NOT use the same numbering ,as it seems... see my sig line... there probably is a logic to it but it is difficult to decode...
Hi Guys,
Well after a lengthy call with the engineer at MidNite trying all kinds of things, nothing worked, so off she went for a trip back to Washington.
The tech notes are as follows:- Found a defective Net controller ( U21) which killed the +3.3V rail, taking the whole system down since it provides voltage to the processor.
It's fixed and currently being tested for any other faults.
I have to say the guys at MidNite are really helpful and friendly.
I hope the tech notes add to data base of knowledge that you all possess.
Thanks again for the help.
Richard.
Quote from: Tobytaylor on January 21, 2017, 08:18:10 PM
Hi Guys,
Well after a lengthy call with the engineer at MidNite trying all kinds of things, nothing worked, so off she went for a trip back to Washington.
The tech notes are as follows:- Found a defective Net controller ( U21) which killed the +3.3V rail, taking the whole system down since it provides voltage to the processor.
It's fixed and currently being tested for any other faults.
I have to say the guys at MidNite are really helpful and friendly.
I hope the tech notes add to data base of knowledge that you all possess.
Thanks again for the help.
Richard.
Thanks for the follow up. I guess electro-static discharge could effect the components. May we should use a wrist strap when opening up the Classic. Then again it probably was just a weak component as they coat the boards and components to stop moisture. MN is great at providing service. They will have you back going in no time.
Mines just about to reach it's five year warranty pretty soon. Maybe time to purchase a spare and sent it back for the refurbish and extra warranty.
Quote from: Resthome on January 21, 2017, 08:34:41 PM
Quote from: Tobytaylor on January 21, 2017, 08:18:10 PM
Hi Guys,
Well after a lengthy call with the engineer at MidNite trying all kinds of things, nothing worked, so off she went for a trip back to Washington.
The tech notes are as follows:- Found a defective Net controller ( U21) which killed the +3.3V rail, taking the whole system down since it provides voltage to the processor.
It's fixed and currently being tested for any other faults.
I have to say the guys at MidNite are really helpful and friendly.
I hope the tech notes add to data base of knowledge that you all possess.
Thanks again for the help.
Richard.
Thanks for the follow up. I guess electro-static discharge could effect the components. May we should use a wrist strap when opening up the Classic. Then again it probably was just a weak component as they coat the boards and components to stop moisture. MN is great at providing service. They will have you back going in no time.
Mines just about to reach it's five year warranty pretty soon. Maybe time to purchase a spare and sent it back for the refurbish and extra warranty.
I should check on how old my Classic is and maybe do that warranty option too John - thanks for the reminder !