Hello folks, been a while. I have a Kid on the way so will have Classic 150 and a Kid (separate systems).
On page 39 of 0-268-1 REV H manual (File name is version 1856.) we find EndAmp Shunt Sel. Use the Wizbang Jr to determine absorb end amps. Sweet!!
Anyone doing this?
- Jeff
Hi Jeff,
Am not using EA on the KID CC, at this moment ...
Do use it on several systems with Classic CCs.
What is it that you are interested in? Is it a general question about determining a good EA value, or is it more specific to the KID CC itself?
Thanks for added info, Vic
There's EA then there is EA via wizbang. This sets midnite solar in a class it's own. I hope to use this, it is in the manual so I hope it's in the latest firmware.
- Jeff
Hi Jeff,
Thanks for the added perspective on your question.
The small system (a backup for 12 V Comm radios, etc) with the KID does not use either form of EA.
And, am not running the later versions of FW, so cannot be of any help at this moment.
There simply must be some members here that are using KID Shunt EA, will try to search a bit to try to dredge up something on this subject.
You ARE correct that both the Classics and KID CCs are very, very capable, and functional, compared to almost any other MPPT CCs, IMO. That is why we do love MidNite Solar!
More later, Vic
I'm using ENDAMPS via WBjr in my RV, you flip it to WB in the CALIBRATION menu a page over or so.
Quote from: WizBandit on August 17, 2017, 02:12:04 PM
I'm using ENDAMPS via WBjr in my RV, you flip it to WB in the CALIBRATION menu a page over or so.
Excellent, can't wait for Monday. This will be an RV install with theoretical 560 watts of tilt-able panels in a serial/parallel config coming down off the roof around 36 volts 14 amps. Sure wish the Kid would accept bigger than 10 gauge wire on the battery terminals. Looking for some type of reducer so I can run 6 or even 4 right up to the Kid, Two 6 volt GC2 batteries are going to be about 12 feet away on the tongue of the travel trailer.
- Jeff
Quote from: unyalli on August 17, 2017, 02:28:28 PM
Quote from: WizBandit on August 17, 2017, 02:12:04 PM
I'm using ENDAMPS via WBjr in my RV, you flip it to WB in the CALIBRATION menu a page over or so.
Excellent, can't wait for Monday. This will be an RV install with theoretical 560 watts of tilt-able panels in a serial/parallel config coming down off the roof around 36 volts 14 amps. Sure wish the Kid would accept bigger than 10 gauge wire on the battery terminals. Looking for some type of reducer so I can run 6 or even 4 right up to the Kid, Two 6 volt GC2 batteries are going to be about 12 feet away on the tongue of the travel trailer.
- Jeff
The Kid's ship with the new improved wall mounts now from what I understand - - but I don't remember what size wire they accept . They are a lot better than the old way to do it . The come with this type of mount now http://www.midnitesolar.com/productPhoto.php?product_ID=662&productCatName=Charge%20Controllers%20-%20KID&productCat_ID=43&sortOrder=1&act=p
Larry
The new kid terminal block in the wall mount bracket will accept up to 8awg.
Thanks for the info guys. That bracket won't work for my install. Was not planning on using bracket new or old so no problem.
I don't remember, will a solid wire handle more power than stranded of the same size?
- Jeff
Quote from: unyalli on August 18, 2017, 03:12:15 PM
Thanks ... I don't remember, will a solid wire handle more power than stranded of the same size?
- Jeff
Jeff, NO, the Ampacity of a solid verses stranded THHN cables of the same gauge is essentially identical.
Depending upon just where the breakers for the KID are located, you could make the transition from #10 AWG to a larger diameter cable on the output side of the KID's battery breaker.
If the breakers are a short distance away from the KID, then this could help.
(in other words, #10 AWG stranded into the KID battery breaker, and #LARGE out of that breaker).
FWIW, Vic
Thanks Vic, something like this would allow this.With planned install this would be around 6 to 8 inches of 10 gauge wire.
http://www.genuinedealz.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/B/u/Bussman_187_30A.jpg
I have a good quality ratcheting crimper for the 10 gauge side and would have these guy's build custom cables for the big wire. Used them in the past and good precise cables. A properly torqued wirenut would take care of the negative transition I suppose.
- Jeff