whiz bang jr and classic 150

Started by new2PV, April 23, 2015, 08:01:01 PM

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Jacotenente

Congrats on the Classic 150! That is what I have and just ordered a Classic 200 also. Question to the staff...do I need a second shunt when I add the Classic 200? I have the Kid hooked up now (the 200 is going to replace it) w/o a shunt and it works fine.

Chris

TomW

I have 3 Classics, a Kid and 2 inverters all  running to one shunt.

Just be sure ALL the negatives go through the shunt to the battery.

Simply put, you need all the negatives to go through the Wbjr shunt to get accurate current figures.

Tom
Do NOT mistake me for any kind of "expert".

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)


24 Trina 310 watt modules, SMA SunnyBoy 7.7 KW Grid Tie inverter.

I thought that they were angels, but much to my surprise, We climbed aboard their starship and headed for the skies

Jacotenente

TOMW - Can I simply "split" the purple wire and run it to the input of the Classic 200? One shunt and one WBJr, one purple wire split to a Classic 150 and a Classic 200. Single battery bank for both controllers.

Chris

TomW

Quote from: Jacotenente on May 10, 2015, 07:25:08 AM
TOMW - Can I simply "split" the purple wire and run it to the input of the Classic 200? One shunt and one WBJr, one purple wire split to a Classic 150 and a Classic 200.

Chris

Nope, if I understand what you want to do. There is more to it than a simple voltage out that relates to the amps like a common analog ammeter would use.

Ryan recently addressed this and I will tag him on this see if he can explain.

Tom
Do NOT mistake me for any kind of "expert".

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)


24 Trina 310 watt modules, SMA SunnyBoy 7.7 KW Grid Tie inverter.

I thought that they were angels, but much to my surprise, We climbed aboard their starship and headed for the skies

Vic

Quote from: Jacotenente on May 10, 2015, 07:25:08 AM
TOMW - Can I simply "split" the purple wire and run it to the input of the Classic 200? One shunt and one WBJr, one purple wire split to a Classic 150 and a Classic 200. Single battery bank for both controllers.
Chris

Chris,

One Classis is all that is needed to report the currents coming and going from the battery, FROM ALL CHARGE SOURCES.

As TowW mentioned,  the purple wire is bidirectional communication and power for the WBjr.   IMO,  each Classic believes that IT is the Master of this communication and power.   Believe that there would be a conflict if you try to connect the purple wire for a single WB to two Classics.

Have used one WB with one Classic and one MX-60 CC,  and the Classic correctly monitors and reports all of the current into and from the battery,  and does a fairly good job on noting the SOC and remaining Capacity,  etc.

FWIW,   Vic
Off Grid - Sys 1: 2ea SW+ 5548, Surrette 4KS25 1280 AH, 5.25 KW PV, Classic 150,WB, Beta Barcelona, Beta KID
Sys 2: SW+ 5548s, 4KS25s, 5.88 KW PV, 2 ea. Classic 150, WB, HB CC-needs remote Monitoring/Control, site=remote.
 MN Bkrs/Bxs/Combiners. Thanks MN for Great Products/Svc/Support&This Forum!!

Jacotenente

Vic TomW - Thank you. Gotcha. My Kid is hooked up and I am not using a WBjr on it...and it works fine (with the Classic 150 which has the Deltec and WBjr hooked up). Both controllers feed my battery bank-inverter-transfer panel. I matched the float and absorb voltages and time. So, when I add the Classic 200 tomorrow, it won't have the WBjr hooked up.

Just got my TP-Link 5-port desktop switch and ethernet cables. Goal will be able to "see" both Classics on my local APP (and also the Outback Power RE monitoring APP) from one wireless extender.

The Kid will be used for another portable project with movable solar panels.

Thanks again...Midnite Solar rocks!

Chris