Terminal block set screw stripped

[Hockey]

I am trying to re-locate one of my Classic 150s, but cannot get the conductor out of PV+.  Stumped on how to deal with a stripped flathead terminal block set screw.  (I prefer hex ) 

 Has anybody dealt with a stripped flathead set screw?  I really don't want to drill it.  Maybe I'll try grinding a deeper slot with my Dremel.

Maybe I could replace the whole terminal block? 

Any thoughts?

[boB]

I'm sure this must have happened before.

Ryan, Wizbandit or others may know or have and idea.  I can only think of the drillbit method off the top of my head.

I bet that terminal needs something like a 100+ watt iron.

You could email:  support@midnitsolar.com if nothing comes up here first.  Might give this a few hours.

We make those terminals up in Arlington so we have the parts if it comes to that.

boB

[ralph day]

Looks like a dremel job to me.  And then replace.  Some heat as boB suggests?

[mahendra]

You can try re - threading with a thread tool ( tap and die thread kit)and use a slightly larger screw.

If you don't find one simply get a couple of bolts within the size and cut with dremel as said before .

Ensure you remove all metal bits before powering up.

[ClassicCrazy]

Maybe cut the wire with enough sticking out to be able to get a grip on. Then cut off insulation and try pulling one strand of copper at a time. Hopefully you can wiggle some strands out , and then get all the wire out. Once the wire is out maybe you will be able to get a big screwdriver to loosen it out since it won't have any pressure on it. If it is still stuck maybe a small sharp pick you can pound around the edges of screw to get it loose or drill a hole through it and use an easy out .
Larry

[mahendra]

My bad didn't look at the pic.
Yea looks like a dremel job
Cutting slot  the other way 180.deg

[Hockey]

Thanks for all the ideas.  I got a Dremel in there and was able to grind the slot deeper without mangling the blue plastic housing too much. YouTube tip:  Stetch an elastic band over the screwdriver blade to get some extra 'grip' on the damaged screwhead.  The screw came out. I was able to reuse one of the PV-/Batt- screws in its place.

[boB]

Realize that the two negatives are actually connected together on the circuit board so you COULD use one of those screws.

We should have plenty of those screws around to be able to send you one.

boB

[Wizbandit]

I use these... The size is 1/4-28 (fine thread)

[Hockey]

I use these... The size is 1/4-28 (fine thread)

Ordered them.

$15.37 Cdn.       It's tiresome being an overtaxed Canadian.

[ralph day]

When's the last time you had to worry about being bankrupted by a health problem Hockey?  I've had kidney stone surgery 2 times.  That would have had me taking out a second mortgage south of here.

[mahendra]

When's the last time you had to worry about being bankrupted by a health problem Hockey?  I've had kidney stone surgery 2 times.  That would have had me taking out a second mortgage south of here.

Yea, health is the best wealth ,you will have the strength to make cash another day, regardless of what our policy makers throws at us.

[Hockey]

I use these... The size is 1/4-28 (fine thread)

Just an an FYI for anybody else needing replacement set screws:


These ones from Amazon(hex) are 1/4x28 x 1/4" (length).
The flathead set screws that come with the Classics are 1/4x28 x 3/8"
I found some hex head 3/8" length set screws at a local hardware store.  The 1/4" screws sourced from Amazon thread very deep into the terminal block compared to the 3/8" screw.  The top of the 3/8" screw is flush with the terminal block.  See photo.  Not sure if it really matters, especially with a thicker conductor. 

Amazon 1/4" set screw on the Left: Bat-
Hardware store 3/8" screw in the Right: PV-