panel configuration reccomendations

Started by Highflyer, March 03, 2014, 04:46:52 PM

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Highflyer

 I have a kid and I was finally able to play with it today.  I was using some smaller panels to see what it would do with them.  Is there a "best practices" way to set up panels for the best output from the Kid?  The system is 12 volts with lead acid batteries.

I was playing with six 10 watt panels for this trial.  The voltage is 21V each.   My middle sized panels are 85 watt panels, again around 21V.  Ultimately I plan on ~250 Watt panels. 

The six 10 watt panels never made more than 17W but it is very hazy today and they were not optimally aimed at the sun.

Thanks for any help, again I have the Newby shield in place for now!!
Brian

The one thing is the one thing

Westbranch

the closer the input (nominal PV) panel voltage is to the battery V, the less down conversion that will occur and the less heat generated. 
The  place/time to use higher PV V is when you have a longer distance PV to CC and thus would suffer higher line V loss at the lower Voltage.  T
The higher the PV V the lower the line loss per foot at a given line Ga. you want < 3% total if possible in all lines PV to battery.
KID FW1811 560W >C&D 24V 900Ah AGM
CL150 29032 FW V.2126-NW2097-GP2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3Px4s 140W > 24V 900Ah AGM,
2 Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr, NetGr DS104Hub
Cotek ST1500 Inv  want a 24V  ROSIE Inverter
OmniCharge3024  Eu1/2/3000iGens
West Chilcotin 1680+W to come

TomW

I seem to recall 1.5X battery voltage is a good open circuit PV input voltage to drive the controller. That was the Classic so may not apply to The Kid.

Tom
Do NOT mistake me for any kind of "expert".

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)


24 Trina 310 watt modules, SMA SunnyBoy 7.7 KW Grid Tie inverter.

I thought that they were angels, but much to my surprise, We climbed aboard their starship and headed for the skies

Westbranch

you're right on that Tom, a typical 12 V nominal PV will have a Vmp of ~ 17 - 18 V, so ~ 1.5X
KID FW1811 560W >C&D 24V 900Ah AGM
CL150 29032 FW V.2126-NW2097-GP2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3Px4s 140W > 24V 900Ah AGM,
2 Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr, NetGr DS104Hub
Cotek ST1500 Inv  want a 24V  ROSIE Inverter
OmniCharge3024  Eu1/2/3000iGens
West Chilcotin 1680+W to come

chris

Quote from: Westbranch on March 03, 2014, 07:55:39 PM
you're right on that Tom, a typical 12 V nominal PV will have a Vmp of ~ 17 - 18 V, so ~ 1.5X

  So, I was thinking of wiring 2 100watt panels in series so cloudy days would still produce a high enough voltage to charge........or would putting them in parallel be the better option? (12 volt system)
System 1
12 volt system,
280 AH DIY LifePO4 with 200amp JBD BMS
4x200 Watt 36volt panels 4P
MidNite Kid, WBjr
2000 watt Kisae SW inverter

System 2
Off Grid RV (parked and used as a cabin)
12 volt system,
4 X T-105+
6X100 watt array wired as 3 strings
MidNite Kid, WBjr & MNBTS
1500 watt Cotek SW

TomW

#5
Quote from: chris on March 04, 2014, 10:16:59 AM
Quote from: Westbranch on March 03, 2014, 07:55:39 PM
you're right on that Tom, a typical 12 V nominal PV will have a Vmp of ~ 17 - 18 V, so ~ 1.5X

  So, I was thinking of wiring 2 100watt panels in series so cloudy days would still produce a high enough voltage to charge........or would putting them in parallel be the better option? (12 volt system)

Chris;

Assuming the panels are identical.

Personally, I would go in series. I "think" it will take better advantage of the MPPT in the Classic.

If they are not the same rating I would go parallel because the lower current rated panel will limit the whole array all the time in series.

Just what I would do.

Tom
Do NOT mistake me for any kind of "expert".

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)


24 Trina 310 watt modules, SMA SunnyBoy 7.7 KW Grid Tie inverter.

I thought that they were angels, but much to my surprise, We climbed aboard their starship and headed for the skies

chris

Quote from: TomW on March 04, 2014, 10:42:40 AM
Chris;

Assuming the panels are identical.

Personally, I would go in series. I "think" it will take better advantage of the MPPT in the Classic.

If they are not the same rating I would go parallel because the lower current rated panel will limit the whole array all the time in series.

Just what I would do.

Tom

  Thanx Tom,

   They are identical
the plan is to add 2 more this summer......so at that point my thought was to do two strings of series parallel....I think that's a little under the max for the Kid on a 12 volt system.
System 1
12 volt system,
280 AH DIY LifePO4 with 200amp JBD BMS
4x200 Watt 36volt panels 4P
MidNite Kid, WBjr
2000 watt Kisae SW inverter

System 2
Off Grid RV (parked and used as a cabin)
12 volt system,
4 X T-105+
6X100 watt array wired as 3 strings
MidNite Kid, WBjr & MNBTS
1500 watt Cotek SW

TomW

#7
Chris;

The Kid manual says it is rated 60 amps with 2X 200 watt strings you should be quite safe at about 34 amps. Probably could go to 700 watts of input into a 12 volt battery.  Not positive but maybe 800 in if The Kid protects itself from over current.

I would ask Ryan or boB but 60 amps into 12 volts is 720 watts and 60 amps into 14.4 volts is about 830 watts so the range of power at "12 volts" and 60 amps is from 720 to 830 watts.

Anyway, maybe one of the Midnite guys will jump in.

Tom
Do NOT mistake me for any kind of "expert".

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)


24 Trina 310 watt modules, SMA SunnyBoy 7.7 KW Grid Tie inverter.

I thought that they were angels, but much to my surprise, We climbed aboard their starship and headed for the skies

chris

  So.....the kid is rated for 60 amps input on 12 volt?

  I thought it was 30 amp...so I was basing my max off of....30amp X 15 volt= 450 / .77 to get a max in put of 584 or 600 watts.

   
System 1
12 volt system,
280 AH DIY LifePO4 with 200amp JBD BMS
4x200 Watt 36volt panels 4P
MidNite Kid, WBjr
2000 watt Kisae SW inverter

System 2
Off Grid RV (parked and used as a cabin)
12 volt system,
4 X T-105+
6X100 watt array wired as 3 strings
MidNite Kid, WBjr & MNBTS
1500 watt Cotek SW

vtmaps

Quote from: chris on March 04, 2014, 12:25:34 PM
  So.....the kid is rated for 60 amps input on 12 volt?

I thought it is 30 amps max output to the battery.  The current into the kid will always be lower than the output, just as the voltage on the input is always higher than the voltage on the output.

--vtMaps

Vic

#10
Well,  the KID has been referred to as a 30 Amp Output CC.
Robin did mention that there was a consideration of adding a fan on the front of the heat-sink fins allowing up to 40 Amps output.   In this mention,  recall that there was a reference to the maximum 10 AWG capacity of the Terminal Block,  but that some Industrial cable being capable of 40 A  at 10 AWG,  and so on.

EDIT: This was snipped from Robin's comments from the lower portion of Reply #131  Pg #8(?)  of the FID Report Card Thread,

>> " ...  Here is a good one to comment on......We have a potential customer that wants to run these in a hot climate. The regular KID is only a 20 amp controller in 40C ambient. That just sounded wimpy, so I asked Mike to rig up a small fan into the back and make the exit holes over the inductor. This turned out to work very well. I can't remember exactly now, but the KID did 30 or 35 amps at 40C with that little fan like what is inside the Classic.
How much would it do at normal ambients? Probably 40 amps. By the way, 20AWG wire is rated at 40C in industrial applications, so we may have a fan option in the future that will give you an additional 10 amps or so.
Cool huh?"   << Robin

This may not be fully on Topic,  but,    FWIW,   Vic
Off Grid - Sys 1: 2ea SW+ 5548, Surrette 4KS25 1280 AH, 5.25 KW PV, Classic 150,WB, Beta Barcelona, Beta KID
Sys 2: SW+ 5548s, 4KS25s, 5.88 KW PV, 2 ea. Classic 150, WB, HB CC-needs remote Monitoring/Control, site=remote.
 MN Bkrs/Bxs/Combiners. Thanks MN for Great Products/Svc/Support&This Forum!!

Mario

The kid is rated for 30 amps out to the battery.
IF you use Bully mode and you parallel them you can get up to 60 amps from a single array and the same batteries, Maybe that's what Tom is referring to.
And yes we are planning for a fan option that will give the kid more output current and not over heat.

Mario

TomW

Quote from: Mario on March 04, 2014, 04:48:40 PM
The kid is rated for 30 amps out to the battery.
IF you use Bully mode and you parallel them you can get up to 60 amps from a single array and the same batteries, Maybe that's what Tom is referring to.
And yes we are planning for a fan option that will give the kid more output current and not over heat.

Mario

Mario;

Thanks for the clarification.

My bad.
The 30 amp fuses should have been the big clue. The Bully mode bit was what I locked on to.

I guess I will be sitting on my hands awhile and just let you guys who actually know answer these questions.

My apologies for the misinformation.

Tom
Do NOT mistake me for any kind of "expert".

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)


24 Trina 310 watt modules, SMA SunnyBoy 7.7 KW Grid Tie inverter.

I thought that they were angels, but much to my surprise, We climbed aboard their starship and headed for the skies

Vic

Quote from: Mario on March 04, 2014, 04:48:40 PM
The kid is rated for 30 amps out to the battery.
IF you use Bully mode and you parallel them you can get up to 60 amps from a single array and the same batteries,  ...   Mario 

Sorry Tom,   I forgot about Bully mode.      Vic
Off Grid - Sys 1: 2ea SW+ 5548, Surrette 4KS25 1280 AH, 5.25 KW PV, Classic 150,WB, Beta Barcelona, Beta KID
Sys 2: SW+ 5548s, 4KS25s, 5.88 KW PV, 2 ea. Classic 150, WB, HB CC-needs remote Monitoring/Control, site=remote.
 MN Bkrs/Bxs/Combiners. Thanks MN for Great Products/Svc/Support&This Forum!!

Highflyer

Well I got to talk to Mario  today about the differences in the two Kids I have and it turns out that the calibration was off on the Rev B Kid, after fixing that, Both Kids are doing great.  Both are putting out more power than before.  So as a NEWB, I can say that even .3 volts on the batt voltage and one volt on the input makes a big difference.

Brian

The one thing is the one thing