WBjr Battery Efficiency

[chris]

I have 4 brand new T-105+'s, what would you recommend I set the battery efficiency too on my Kid?  (I set it to what the manual recommended 93% I think)

  I'm a little confused as to how this needs to be adjusted

[chris]

 I'm planning to head out to the lake after work tonight, any body have any tips on this?

[Halfcrazy]

typically FLA batteries get set around 94% I found my Trojan L16s landed around 93%

[chris]

  Ok, now is this something that will have to adjusted as the batteries age?
I mean....I know the batteries arn't supposed to reach full capacity tell they "break in" about 100 cycles...that's what I'm confused about.

[Mario]

yes, as batteries age, you will need to manually adjust the efficiency % on the kid.

Mario

[chris]

yes, as batteries age, you will need to manually adjust the efficiency % on the kid.

Mario

  What I'm getting at is....how do I know if it needs to be adjusted?
  would the % go up as the batteries break in?

[Vic]

Hi chris,

My few pennies ...

Most T-105s are Flooded batteries (batteries with easily removable cell caps).  There are a few T-105-sized batteries that are sealed.

If you are lucky enough to have purchased Flooded T-105s,  then measuring  the Specific Gravity of each cell with your Hydrometer,    is the Gold Standard of what the State Of Charge really is.

If your batteries are Sealed -- AGM  or Gel -- then resting voltage (NO charge or discharge for hours and hours)  is really the best way of telling the SOC,  and therefore what changes need to be made to settings for the WBjr settings.

Battery monitoring devices,  like the WBjr,   are a reasonably good device to tell roughly the SOC.   There are many variables that accounted for when programming these units,  and they will seldom be perfect in their indication of SOC.

The WB is a terrific addition to the KID and Classic CCs,  and its ability to determine when measured battery charge current equals the setting in the Classic's Shunt EA menu.   The added Battery Monitoring functions are just gravy.

Just my opinions,    Have Fun,   Vic

[Westbranch]

to ad to Vic's comments, Chris, don't sweat the small stuff just yet.    Unless you have a bad battery or cell in one of those T105's you should be good for this summer. You will know that something is amiss if the 105 voltages are divergent... If you notice some strange numbers, come on back...

enjoy the summer and lots of 'free'  power

[chris]

Thank you both for the responses.

The T-105+'s are Trojan flooded 225HR

Ok, so I should be good for the summer, but unfortunately I have developed a bit of a bug for this stuff, I want to learn how to properly maintain and operate my (and a few friends of mines) equipment.

  Such as knowing when and why I have to adjust.

[Vic]

OK Chris,

Good that your t-105s are Flooded.

Getting off on the right foot is a very good thing.   It is good that you are interested in the details of just how your batteries are doing and getting charged.

You should have a good Hydrometer,  that reads in actual SG numbers,  not just colored scales or words like Charged,   Good,  or Low,  etc.

This Hydrometer will help you get the KID's settings for Absorb voltage, Time,  etc set correctly,  and the settings to allow the SOC info to be as accurate as possible.

This will be very good for the health of your batteries,  and allow you to avoid having to take remedial actions to get the batteries up to snuff later ...   in my opinion.

Have fun with the new system.     Vic

[chris]

 Thanx Vic,

  I do have one that reads numbers.....it was still pretty cheap, I think like 10 bucks at the auto motive store. Are you saying I need a better one?
After spending a ton of money getting on my system (an not done yet.....ordering more panels next week) I don't mind spending a few bucks on something that will help protect my investment.

   Do you recommend a specific model?

[Vic]

Hi chris,

Good that you have a Hydrometer ...

Personally,  use two strategies;  Have several glass tube/glass float type Hydrometers,   allowing voting on SG readings.   The $10.  Auto Parts types should be fine,  if they are glass/glass types (not plastic),   and then have one or two good ones ...   my favorite is a Freas brand glass Hydo,   very accurate and repeatable,  but find of hard to find now,  and then the HydroVolt Hydrometer,  that MidNite distributes,  but can be a bit hard to find as well,  here is the manual for the HydroVlolt:
http://www.midnitesolar.com/pdfs/Hyvolt-e.pdf

This is a very well made,  accurate,   very easy to read Hydro,  that even temperature COMPENSATES the readings.

The good thing about having several (three is ideal)  inexpensive Auto store type Hydros,  is that each can have a known history,  and it is certain that eventually one of the glass ones will break,  so having another with known characteristics,  on hand is a very good thing,  while you get a replacement for the broken one.

Couple of things about taking SG readings with Hydros;

Take your reading on about the third draw of a sample,  and make sure that the float is  not sticking to the side of the outer tube.

And RINSE the Hydro after each measuring session,  two or three times,  using Distilled Water.  This keeps a sticky residue from building up on the insides of the Htdro.  This residue causes air bubbles to tick to the inside,  making accurate readings impossible.

If possible store the Hydro vertically,  allowing the  residual water to drain between measurements.

Make a battery Logbook,   mark  every battery  and cell with a marking pen  -- like #1 A,  1 B,   et  and record the SG readings of EVERY cell about every month.   This data will allow you to see trends in SG,  and allow you to make adjustments over a period of time.

More later,  Thanks,   Vic

[chris]

enjoy the summer and lots of 'free'  power

  Just re-read this....."free"  where do I find some of that LOL

[Westbranch]

My lake neighbour talks like that , the one that I have started into solar, now he doesn't have to use his gen set.... No gas use = 'free'..

Another way to look at it is once the money has been spent, it is a sunk cost, ie the money is gone, like hot water down the drain...

BTW a small 5 gal tank of DHW might cure your children of taking loooong showers.
House rule : you only get one tank of hot water... 

[vtmaps]

Another way to look at it is once the money has been spent, it is a sunk cost, ie the money is gone, like hot water down the drain...

Hot water down the drain can be recovered with a waste water heat exchanger.      --vtMaps