Classic firmware update windows 8 Is is possible?

[verdigo]

All new PCs have windows eight. Why is this so hard?  Been at this all day.

[Resthome]

All new PCs have windows eight. Why is this so hard?  Been at this all day.

Is your PC windows 8  or 8.1?   Are you following the Windows 8 Firmware instructions step by step? You don't give us a lot of information as to what the issue is so it is kind of hard to help.

[verdigo]

Finally got it. Thanks.

[mike90045]

I gave up.  I borrowed a friends XP laptop and a known good USB cable.   Graphic panel and charger updated first try on each.  Phoooey on Win 8.n

Plus:   things seem to be running about 10C cooler now.

Minus:  But it stays in BULK all night.
(yes, I did the full reset, and re-programmed all my settings.)

[boB]

I gave up.  I borrowed a friends XP laptop and a known good USB cable.   Graphic panel and charger updated first try on each.  Phoooey on Win 8.n

Plus:   things seem to be running about 10C cooler now.

Minus:  But it stays in BULK all night.
(yes, I did the full reset, and re-programmed all my settings.)

Check the TWEAKS to make sure that INSOMNIA is turned OFF.  Maybe it got turned on somehow ?

Also, at night, what does the main status screen say for WATTS ?  If it is less than 20 watts, it should go to Resting.

[mike90045]

INSOMNIA was on, but it's off now.  Things are running cooler, but still when in Float @ 0watts, and the other array & controller are keeping the batteries up, the system still runs @50C and cycles fans on 50% duty cycle.   And the other mppt controller I have, is cranking 1500w and staying cool with no fan. ?

[dgd]

Things are running cooler, but still when in Float @ 0watts, and the other array & controller are keeping the batteries up, the system still runs @50C and cycles fans on 50% duty cycle.   And the other mppt controller I have, is cranking 1500w and staying cool with no fan. ?

The Classic in FLOAT with output @ 0watts may mean that another charging device is holding the battery voltage above the float voltage set in the Classic.
Although you may have both controllers set at the same float and absorb voltage you should check the actual battery voltage and compare this to the voltage the Classic has for battery voltage. Same with other controller.
If the Classic is different then use the tweaks menu to adjust the Classic's batt V reading..
I have noticed that when float drops to zero watts (ie no output) then the input voltage rises towards the PVs open circuit voltage. The Classic then starts heating up, slowly but definitely. I can only guess that if left in this situation for several hours the internal temps could rise significantly.

As an experiment you could disconnect the other controller for a short period and see if the Classic in float starts to output power to the battery bank.

dgd

[vtmaps]

I have noticed that when float drops to zero watts (ie no output) then the input voltage rises towards the PVs open circuit voltage. The Classic then starts heating up, slowly but definitely. I can only guess that if left in this situation for several hours the internal temps could rise significantly.

If the classic raises its resistance enough to unload the array (Voc), then there is no current flowing.  Why would it heat up if there is no current flowing?

--vtMaps

[dgd]

I first noticed this when using  two classics charging the same battery bank.
When one Classic took over all charging in float and the other dropped to zero output then I noticed the one at zero output still dissipated some power as it slowly heated up. I could not see if it was using input or battery power as I could not easily measure the input amps.
Seemed strange at the time.
I would have liked to see some sort of charge balancing between controllers but have settled on getting voltage readings on each Classic just about identical over the base to absorb range.
dgd

[boB]

If the Classic is actually "Resting", then it should not be getting warm.

Was it Resting when you saw 50C and fans coming on and off ?

[mike90045]

If the classic raises its resistance enough to unload the array (Voc), then there is no current flowing.  Why would it heat up if there is no current flowing?--vtMaps

My point, if it's not "working hard" why is it heating up.  I'm intentionally unloading the Classic, because it does run so hot, much hotter at "idle" than my other brand controller at 2KW of power (it's taking a 3KW, 120V array down to 65V, classic is working on a 2KW, 160V array at idle).  So just judging by the amount of heat, even resting at night, it's PCB & FETs are 5-10 above ambient, while my other controller is @ ambient.  And it has a working web server in it too.

BULK FLOAT @ 0 watts, it's 50C and cycling fans on 30%
BULK @ 900watts, it's 50C and fans on 90%

Was it Resting when you saw 50C and fans coming on and off ?

Resting it's +5-10 above ambient, always

[zoneblue]

Mate,  The classic runs warm at low loads, thats just how it is. At full load it is a lot more efficient, and the temps dont rise much. Its designed as a high throughout controller, and the tare reflects that.

Some folk have 500W of PV and theyre, like, i really want a classic because its the best or whatever. But if you dont need the 96Amps use a kid, which is more suitable for lower workloads.  Right tool for the right job.

Multiple controllers will always work best with coordination, or at least very close setpoint sync.

[Vic]

vtmaps touched on one thing -- at 0 watts delivered by an MPPT CC,  the array is unloaded,  and the Vin to the CC is at Voc for the temperature of the PVs.  If the Converter is running (Classic not resting),  the innards are working,  and the internal temps rise.   MPPT CCs are by definition running at 0% efficiency at this point.

The Classics have a lot of whizzy stuff going on inside of them that make them a great CC,  but  there is usually no free luncheonette.

Mike,  sounds like your "power room"  runs a bit warmish Ta.

Know that you know this stuff,  but we run about 106 String Vmp to the Classic at one location,  and when in Float and very light loads,  the Vin rises to about 122 V or so in the Summer.  Even the venerable MX-60 would have its tongue hanging out when delivering  2 - 3 Amps toward the batteries.

FWIW,   Vic

[boB]

The idling temperature (not Resting) will also be higher, the higher the input voltage is.

Still, I'm not sure if it should be running at 50 degrees C at this point...  What is the ambient temperature
when you see this ?   If it was only 5 degrees C hotter than the next one to it, I wouldn't worry too
much.  10 degrees +   I kind of wonder.
Are they both the same type ?  Meaning,  one is a 150 and the other is a 150 or is one say, a 250
and the other a 150 or 200 ?  That will also make a difference at idling temperature.