Midnite 150 Battery conector - bolt thread damage

[fca]

Hi when installing my midnite I damaged the thread of one of the screws.
Mainly because of thickness of the cable even with splitter .
I managed to leave the cable even withou the screw, I'm now changing the classic from place and want to solve this .
Is this screw connectors a replaceable part?
If not will try to open a larger thread with a thread maker, any 1 had this done that can give some tips
Thanks

[CDN-VT]

Can you remove the damaged screw & show us the threads of the screw & the female wire retainer ? That would help "ME" in getting a correct  reply. I will pull my screw & measure the thread spec's .

I seem to do this style of work weekly , seems they no longer teach repair !!
VT

[fca]

Yes i Will take Photo later thanks.
The damage is on the bolt and not the screw sorry for the misleading

[dgd]

So if its the bolt that is thread damaged just get a replacement bolt from a hardware store, doesn't matter if its longer or has
a hex head instead of the screwdriver slot head. You can always saw off excess length.
Also since most of the pics of wiring examples shown in Midnite docs show only one of the -ve connectors used ( the PV and Batt negatives are commoned anyway) then you could use one of the bolts from the -ve to replace the dud bolt if it is in one of the positive terminals.
Or does your definition of bolt refer to the threaded receptacle the wire pushes into?
There are no screws (noun) used  anywhere to connect cables to the Classic   but you do screw in the bolt  with a screwdriver

dgd

[fca]

Maybe my english...

[CDN-VT]

Picture english is fine .
So where are you located ?
Im guessing from mine that I took apart the thread is 1/4" X28 tpi  as in Unified National Fine to Imperial sizing 
That is one quarter inch and 28 threads per inch  , the set screw is male(boy) & so is a bolt , the nut and the wire retainer is female (girl) . I have posted the tools of how i  repair or "chase " the threads .

The larger size in the picture is 3/8 " X24 tpi , so close to 10mm while the smaller one is around 5.5mm in diameter .
I know trying to find Imperial sizing stuff in a metric world can be hard . your pictures are hard for me to know the correct size to say .

I have a 1/4"x28 bolt inserted into one of my spare classics , I don't have a chaser that small , there I would use a threading tap :
https://store.snapon.com/Taps-National-Fine-Thread-Tap-NF-1-4-28-P652044.aspx
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/thread-chaser-set

& grind the nose down to make a bottoming /blind hole tap .
VT
Can you remove the set screw ?

That could repair the Female / nut portion .
Male we use dies or nut chasers , depends on damage .

VT

[Halfcrazy]

Depending on where you are located may determine the best way to handle it. We can for sure change the terminal block for you but shipping could be an issue. If it where me I would consider trying to tap it out to the next size bigger (Making VERY sure not to get shavings where you do not want them)

[CDN-VT]

If you can remove the set screw & decide to us a tap
your next size up would be M7x1  in metric , Common on later European cars .
Use grease on the tap to hold the metal chunks it removes .
I'd like to see it removed (the set screw)

VT

I was reviewing this thread & since no feedback from the OP , I re-read it & thought of a field repair . Now is not the Battery ground & the PV ground that same potential (there connected on the board ) So you could just use the PV - negative  as the ground . Don't damage it and be easy on these , re-tighten them in a few hours & check in a day or two is my system .
This is for the classics only NOT the KID !

VT

[fca]

Hi finally the real pictures.
I found that at the end some threads are still ok but as the cable is so thick I need threads right on Begin .
So I will buy some threads maker kit ant try to open m7 thread . Right now is like this even if working I don't like to have it like this .

[CDN-VT]

M7x1mm bolt requires a 6mm hole for 75% thread grip.  & grease will stick the metal bits on the tap .
Here is a photo of my classic . One ground feeds both .
Don't do this on the KID

VT

[Halfcrazy]

If it is just that one negative thats messed up it can be tied to the other negative outside the classic. The Classic has "COMMON" negatives meaning it only needs one neagitve wire from the common DC - buss