How can I use Larger gauge cable on my Classic 150 to the Batteries?

Started by Solar trucker, February 21, 2016, 12:40:10 AM

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Solar trucker

I just installed a Classic 150 in my RV and would like to
Use at least 1(00) or even 2(00) cable to connect the
Classic 150 to the battery bank. I'm presently using 4-ga
Cable which seems to be the largest wire the Classic will
Accept...When the controller is rocking and rolling around
70 amps and up... The 4-ga cable gets slightly warm but
Nowhere near HOT...
My question is... If I can run the 7ft or so to the batteries
With larger ga cable...would that cure the
Heat issue?
1.35 KW SunPower Mono Panels - (2) Kid Controllers, (6) Rolls LC-16H Flooded 6V Batteries, 2000 watt Sine wave Inverter

Ottawa Canada

mike90045

Does the wire get warm along it's whole length or just near the terminals ?  4 ga should be good for 85A, 2ga good for 115A

Is this solid or stranded wire ?

To use larger, you have to use a short 4ga stub to the terminals, and then a split bolt splice to a larger ga wire
http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar

Classic 200| 2Kw PV, 160Voc | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph )| Listeroid 6/1, st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | midnight ePanel & 4 SPDs | 48V, 800A NiFe battery bank | MS-TS-MPPT60 w/3Kw PV

zoneblue

The industry standard practice is to run 4 awg to the disconnect, which is only 8 inchs  or so to one side. Then higher gauge from the main bus to the battery as needed.
6x300W CSUN, ground mount, CL150Lite, 2V/400AhToyo AGM,  Outback VFX3024E, Steca Solarix PL1100
http://www.zoneblue.org/cms/page.php?view=off-grid-solar

australsolarier

yes the midnite classic has very small terminals, i think max diameter is for 25mm2 wire. i used 50mm2 cable between the midnite and busbar. i had to crimp a reducing wire with an elbow to the 50mm2 wire.
i can tell that positive  50mm2 wire gets quite warm, even hot, when running at 96amps. i measured up to 52degrees celsius. so i leave the fuse box open to help cool down that cable. to the battery and the inverter wires i do not feel any warmth, however the current is split up between them.

yes and i wished they would either larger terminals or terminals for lugs.
i am aware the 12volt battery system is not optimal for several reasons.

dmclain

I agree with Zoneblue you should have 4 AWG from the classic to your fused disconnect or circuit break located near the classic then you can come off the disconnect/circuit breaker with larger gauge wire to mitigate voltage loss in long runs.

Solar trucker

Thank you all for your input on the output side of the Classic to the Battery Bank...
I took your suggestions and only ran about one foot of #4-AWG to distribution Hubs
where I connected with 2/(00)...The load calculator now says I'm less than .05% for
7ft run...I had 82 amps running through it today...The #4 Ga cable got only Very slightly
warm to the Hub, and the 2/(00) cable which is over 6ft long stayed quite cool to the touch
I'm pleased with the result now!

Thanks!
1.35 KW SunPower Mono Panels - (2) Kid Controllers, (6) Rolls LC-16H Flooded 6V Batteries, 2000 watt Sine wave Inverter

Ottawa Canada

CDN-VT

Solar Trucker
Recheck all your torques after a day or so. I find they can be tightened back up to the  torque  , If not they will be next to have a hot spot.

If this is a Truck , do it again in a month since vibration is a pain.


VT
Canadian Solar 350W 37.6 VOC  30.6 VMP 8.22 ISC 7.87 IMP ,-15 c +30c max  4 strings in 2 in Series for 24v Classic 150 -1020 Ah  Freezers & fridges ~~~ Second Array same panels of 3sx3 parallel for 24 V Classic 150 -440 Ah Outback Barns & out blds.
48Vdc almost done,11Strings up of 3s11P same panels