Classic with Separate Diversion Controller

[boB]

boB,
i don't think that's quite as simple as i was under the impression it was to be and i'm not sure if it's the same on vista or not, but i'd like the ethernet route if that is simpler. now is there a way to know ahead of time if one would have the latest or not without going through the procedure?

It is about as easy as it can get except for the first time where you change the com port.  After that, you can download new code without having to go to control panel.

Vista and win 7 will be similar.

As far as turning off the Classic and hitting the button, that is because the Classic looks for new code when it powers up.
The Ethernet method doesn't require that power up.

I do like having two methods of uploading code though.

boB

[niel]

boB,
ok i'll cross that bridge when i get to it for the updating, but how does one know if there is a newer update for it or not? in other words we'd need to know the version in the classic (and how found) and the latest version being offered online otherwise one could find themselves guessing if they need to download or not.

[keyturbocars]

Thanks Edward !   It should work fine with XP home as well however getting to the
control panel may be a different path than what was shown in the video.  In fact,
maybe you could see if you can find control panel, system, hardware on your XP.
If you can get that far, then I think it'll be an easy one.

boB

Sounds good boB.  Since I posted the question about XP Home, I found out that one of my old IBM Thinkpad T42P laptops that the kids use has XP Pro on it. 

What type of USB cable will I ned to purchase for my Classic?  Is that a standard USB cable that can be purchased in longer lengths? 

My wind control system is in my utility room which is also my "office".  I'll have my Classic mounted probably within 8 feet of my desk, so it would be easy to just run a longer USB cable to a USB port on the front of my tower.  I can always just bring down the Thinkpad with XP Pro too, and use a standard length USB cord.  Once the ethernet option is available, then I'll be able to tap right in to my wireless router that is also in my office.

Edward

[niel]

edward,
it comes with a usb cable so you don't have to buy one.

[keyturbocars]

That's good that is comes with the USB cable.  I wonder if the cable end that plugs into the Classic is a standard design so that longer USB cables can be purchased.

Edward

[Halfcrazy]

It is a standard mini USB on that end and we give you a 10 or 11 foot cable. I don't know if you can go much longer with USB boB may chime in on that.

[boB]

It is a standard mini USB on that end and we give you a 10 or 11 foot cable. I don't know if you can go much longer with USB boB may chime in on that.

This  L   O    N    G    cable that we give out works great for what they call "Full Speed"  USB which is 12 MHz,
but it doesn't work so well with "High Speed"   Hundreds of MHz things like external disk drives.

boB

[keyturbocars]

Oh, I didn't realize it came with cable that long!  I figured it was just a typical 3 foot cable or something like that. 

Sounds great!

Edward

[kitestrings]

Edward,

Thanks and please post your observations.  We're very interested in the overall approach, that is is having the dump usually doing something useful.  We've been successfully diverting "opportunity load" as it is explored more here (this article is mainly focused on PV):

http://outbackpower.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=2865&hilit=electron&start=25

One thought - our tank is undersized, but a strategy that has worrked well for us is to actually overheat the water - our tanks allows 170 degF - and then drop the temp via a mixing valve out of the preheat tank.  If the source is free, a Btu saved is a Btu earned...

~kitestrings

[boB]

My goodness !!   I just looked at the prices of those Crydom DC (FET) optically
isolated SSRs and they're almost $90 !!   I found one for just less than $90.

http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=57K2970&CMP=AFC-OP&CMP=AFC-OP

And that's only a 10 Amp 500V part.   Makes $1000.00 or more sound cheap
for a real Clipper made to work with this stuff (on the wind turbine side).

Anybody found any cheaper, off the shelf, SSRs ??

boB

[kitestrings]

boB,

I've used these with good results.  I don't know how wide the range of other spec's/configurations they have.  For ours the price was about a third.  No affiliation (or background check).

~kitestrings

[keyturbocars]

My goodness !!   I just looked at the prices of those Crydom DC (FET) optically
isolated SSRs and they're almost $90 !!   I found one for just less than $90.

http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=57K2970&CMP=AFC-OP&CMP=AFC-OP

And that's only a 10 Amp 500V part.   Makes $1000.00 or more sound cheap
for a real Clipper made to work with this stuff (on the wind turbine side).

Anybody found any cheaper, off the shelf, SSRs ??

boB

boB,

I used a Crydom D1D100 for my system.

http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=04R7287&CMP=AFC-GB100000001

http://us.element-14.com/crydom/d1d100/ssr-panel-mount-100vdc-32vdc-100a/dp/04R7287?whydiditmatch=rel_default&matchedProduct=d1d100&Ntt=d1d100

I ordered from Element 14 because they had free shipping.  From what I can see, Newark and Element 14 are the same company with different internet storefronts.  For 100A capacity, the Crydom D1D100 seemed reasonable at $126.  It has a 100VDC rating, but that's fine for what I'm going to do to divert off the battery side of the Classic, so the SSR will not see any more than about 60VDC anyway.

Edward

[kitestrings]

Edward, boB,

Sorry I omitted the link.  Here's what we've used:

http://www.futurlec.com/RelSS.shtml

~kitestrings

[keyturbocars]

Edward,

Thanks and please post your observations.  We're very interested in the overall approach, that is is having the dump usually doing something useful.  We've been successfully diverting "opportunity load" as it is explored more here (this article is mainly focused on PV):

http://outbackpower.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=2865&hilit=electron&start=25

One thought - our tank is undersized, but a strategy that has worrked well for us is to actually overheat the water - our tanks allows 170 degF - and then drop the temp via a mixing valve out of the preheat tank.  If the source is free, a Btu saved is a Btu earned...

~kitestrings

Hello kitestrings,

I see you are also like minded in harvesting every bit of power.  I think the DC water heating idea is good because there are no losses in going from DC to AC.  By diverting the DC power directly, then there is one less step of conversion losses.  

I will plan to keep you updated on how things go.  I am still waiting for my Classic 150 to arrive.  Midnite was waiting on a shipment of circuit boards and then they were going to crank out some more 150's.  Should be soon - within the next 1-2 weeks from what I've heard.

Those SSR's you linked to are priced very low.  They look like a Chinese copy of the Crydom SSRs. How long have you been using those and have they been reliable?

I ended up buying a 100A Crydom D1D100 and I expect that it will be very reliable as long as I have a good heat sink (which I also have).

I scanned through that discussion on the Outback forum.  What sort of mixing valve are you using?  Recently, I ended up changing the thermostat on my 80 gal water pre-heater from 125F to 135F to increase my hot water storage capacity, but I didn't want to go too much higher because I have young children that could get scalded.  The mixer valve would take care of that - good idea.

By the way, I use these Supco snap disc thermostats on my DC water heater:

http://www.drillspot.com/products/451421/Supco_L135_Thermostat

Edward

[Westbranch]

Kitestrings, is this the item you referred to?

SPST 0-200Vdc 40A DC Solid State Relay

just following your setup.

e