Rosie breaker box question

[BlackwaterPark]

hey, so looking at the diagrams in the manual for the Rosie companion breaker box, i'm seeing that those grey contacts in the lower right say PV+ and PV- in one section, and then SPD in another section. I was on the phone with James, and when I mentioned the my HB120 was hooked up directly to the DC bus bars, he seemed surprised that I was running it that way, rather than through the Rosie, if I was understanding him correctly. Can't you actually run the HB through the Rosie like that, or did I hear this incorrectly?  The manual is a little confusing and doesn't mention anything about doing this.. at least from what I can see.

[Brucey]

hey, so looking at the diagrams in the manual for the Rosie companion breaker box, i'm seeing that those grey contacts in the lower right say PV+ and PV- in one section, and then SPD in another section. I was on the phone with James, and when I mentioned the my HB120 was hooked up directly to the DC bus bars, he seemed surprised that I was running it that way, rather than through the Rosie, if I was understanding him correctly. Can't you actually run the HB through the Rosie like that, or did I hear this incorrectly?  The manual is a little confusing and doesn't mention anything about doing this.. at least from what I can see.

You could either use the rosie breaker box to hold your pv and battery breaker, or handle that outside the Rosie breaker box and connect direct to bus bars.

[BlackwaterPark]

hey, so looking at the diagrams in the manual for the Rosie companion breaker box, i'm seeing that those grey contacts in the lower right say PV+ and PV- in one section, and then SPD in another section. I was on the phone with James, and when I mentioned the my HB120 was hooked up directly to the DC bus bars, he seemed surprised that I was running it that way, rather than through the Rosie, if I was understanding him correctly. Can't you actually run the HB through the Rosie like that, or did I hear this incorrectly?  The manual is a little confusing and doesn't mention anything about doing this.. at least from what I can see.

You could either use the rosie breaker box to hold your pv and battery breaker, or handle that outside the Rosie breaker box and connect direct to bus bars.

Aside from freeing up Little space on my bus bars, is there any advantage to running it through the Rosie, to your knowledge?

[Brucey]

hey, so looking at the diagrams in the manual for the Rosie companion breaker box, i'm seeing that those grey contacts in the lower right say PV+ and PV- in one section, and then SPD in another section. I was on the phone with James, and when I mentioned the my HB120 was hooked up directly to the DC bus bars, he seemed surprised that I was running it that way, rather than through the Rosie, if I was understanding him correctly. Can't you actually run the HB through the Rosie like that, or did I hear this incorrectly?  The manual is a little confusing and doesn't mention anything about doing this.. at least from what I can see.

You could either use the rosie breaker box to hold your pv and battery breaker, or handle that outside the Rosie breaker box and connect direct to bus bars.

Aside from freeing up Little space on my bus bars, is there any advantage to running it through the Rosie, to your knowledge?

No advantage I know of. Personally I have a hb 90 with its matching breaker box, that has the shunt trip pv breaker that will trip if battery voltage hits 68V (protection in case of scc failure)

[Wizbandit]

Rosie has a SHUNT with a WBjr included in the companion breaker box.  The battery terminals in the lower right go through the shunt so if you want accurate SOC% with open-loop installs you need to feed the charge controllers through the shunt.

hey, so looking at the diagrams in the manual for the Rosie companion breaker box, i'm seeing that those grey contacts in the lower right say PV+ and PV- in one section, and then SPD in another section. I was on the phone with James, and when I mentioned the my HB120 was hooked up directly to the DC bus bars, he seemed surprised that I was running it that way, rather than through the Rosie, if I was understanding him correctly. Can't you actually run the HB through the Rosie like that, or did I hear this incorrectly?  The manual is a little confusing and doesn't mention anything about doing this.. at least from what I can see.

You could either use the rosie breaker box to hold your pv and battery breaker, or handle that outside the Rosie breaker box and connect direct to bus bars.

Aside from freeing up Little space on my bus bars, is there any advantage to running it through the Rosie, to your knowledge?

No advantage I know of. Personally I have a hb 90 with its matching breaker box, that has the shunt trip pv breaker that will trip if battery voltage hits 68V (protection in case of scc failure)

[BlackwaterPark]

Rosie has a SHUNT with a WBjr included in the companion breaker box.  The battery terminals in the lower right go through the shunt so if you want accurate SOC% with open-loop installs you need to feed the charge controllers through the shunt.

hey, so looking at the diagrams in the manual for the Rosie companion breaker box, i'm seeing that those grey contacts in the lower right say PV+ and PV- in one section, and then SPD in another section. I was on the phone with James, and when I mentioned the my HB120 was hooked up directly to the DC bus bars, he seemed surprised that I was running it that way, rather than through the Rosie, if I was understanding him correctly. Can't you actually run the HB through the Rosie like that, or did I hear this incorrectly?  The manual is a little confusing and doesn't mention anything about doing this.. at least from what I can see.

You could either use the rosie breaker box to hold your pv and battery breaker, or handle that outside the Rosie breaker box and connect direct to bus bars.

Aside from freeing up Little space on my bus bars, is there any advantage to running it through the Rosie, to your knowledge?

No advantage I know of. Personally I have a hb 90 with its matching breaker box, that has the shunt trip pv breaker that will trip if battery voltage hits 68V (protection in case of scc failure)

Somehow, this post slipped right past me. It's interesting you say that, because today, after a full day of sun, I cane back to see that the Whznang was reading float at 99% but my powerflo5 batteries were reading at only 4 leds and working on the fifth blinking. When I plugged the closed loop back in, it went to 81%, but by then, the sun was going down so it stayed there. So now, I'm not sure which is accurate, or if either are accurate. I'm guessing the hawks bay uses voltage to determine when the batteries are nearing full enough to start throttling down and not the SoC readings, right?

But, pursuant to your reply, what you are saying is that if I want to get an accurate SoC (and i'm hearing from other folks on here  that the Whzbang is more accurate than the bms because it can detect smaller amounts of energy coming in and out), that I will have to run the battery leads coming from the HB into the Rosie breaker box rather than the DC bus bars...is that correct?

[Brucey]

Rosie has a SHUNT with a WBjr included in the companion breaker box.  The battery terminals in the lower right go through the shunt so if you want accurate SOC% with open-loop installs you need to feed the charge controllers through the shunt.

hey, so looking at the diagrams in the manual for the Rosie companion breaker box, i'm seeing that those grey contacts in the lower right say PV+ and PV- in one section, and then SPD in another section. I was on the phone with James, and when I mentioned the my HB120 was hooked up directly to the DC bus bars, he seemed surprised that I was running it that way, rather than through the Rosie, if I was understanding him correctly. Can't you actually run the HB through the Rosie like that, or did I hear this incorrectly?  The manual is a little confusing and doesn't mention anything about doing this.. at least from what I can see.

You could either use the rosie breaker box to hold your pv and battery breaker, or handle that outside the Rosie breaker box and connect direct to bus bars.

Aside from freeing up Little space on my bus bars, is there any advantage to running it through the Rosie, to your knowledge?

No advantage I know of. Personally I have a hb 90 with its matching breaker box, that has the shunt trip pv breaker that will trip if battery voltage hits 68V (protection in case of scc failure)

Somehow, this post slipped right past me. It's interesting you say that, because today, after a full day of sun, I cane back to see that the Whznang was reading float at 99% but my powerflo5 batteries were reading at only 4 leds and working on the fifth blinking. When I plugged the closed loop back in, it went to 81%, but by then, the sun was going down so it stayed there. So now, I'm not sure which is accurate, or if either are accurate. I'm guessing the hawks bay uses voltage to determine when the batteries are nearing full enough to start throttling down and not the SoC readings, right?

But, pursuant to your reply, what you are saying is that if I want to get an accurate SoC (and i'm hearing from other folks on here  that the Whzbang is more accurate than the bms because it can detect smaller amounts of energy coming in and out), that I will have to run the battery leads coming from the HB into the Rosie breaker box rather than the DC bus bars...is that correct?

Yes, well you'd want the negative battery cable of the hawkes bay connected to the load side of the shunt.

[BlackwaterPark]

Rosie has a SHUNT with a WBjr included in the companion breaker box.  The battery terminals in the lower right go through the shunt so if you want accurate SOC% with open-loop installs you need to feed the charge controllers through the shunt.

hey, so looking at the diagrams in the manual for the Rosie companion breaker box, i'm seeing that those grey contacts in the lower right say PV+ and PV- in one section, and then SPD in another section. I was on the phone with James, and when I mentioned the my HB120 was hooked up directly to the DC bus bars, he seemed surprised that I was running it that way, rather than through the Rosie, if I was understanding him correctly. Can't you actually run the HB through the Rosie like that, or did I hear this incorrectly?  The manual is a little confusing and doesn't mention anything about doing this.. at least from what I can see.

You could either use the rosie breaker box to hold your pv and battery breaker, or handle that outside the Rosie breaker box and connect direct to bus bars.

Aside from freeing up Little space on my bus bars, is there any advantage to running it through the Rosie, to your knowledge?

No advantage I know of. Personally I have a hb 90 with its matching breaker box, that has the shunt trip pv breaker that will trip if battery voltage hits 68V (protection in case of scc failure)

Somehow, this post slipped right past me. It's interesting you say that, because today, after a full day of sun, I cane back to see that the Whznang was reading float at 99% but my powerflo5 batteries were reading at only 4 leds and working on the fifth blinking. When I plugged the closed loop back in, it went to 81%, but by then, the sun was going down so it stayed there. So now, I'm not sure which is accurate, or if either are accurate. I'm guessing the hawks bay uses voltage to determine when the batteries are nearing full enough to start throttling down and not the SoC readings, right?

But, pursuant to your reply, what you are saying is that if I want to get an accurate SoC (and i'm hearing from other folks on here  that the Whzbang is more accurate than the bms because it can detect smaller amounts of energy coming in and out), that I will have to run the battery leads coming from the HB into the Rosie breaker box rather than the DC bus bars...is that correct?

Yes, well you'd want the negative battery cable of the hawkes bay connected to the load side of the shunt.

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I wish I knew how to post a pic to this forum to make this easy, but in the E panel manual, it shows a diagram of the block of terminals in the lower most right hand side, with "MPPT" written there pointing to the underside...is THIS where the leads from the HB go?

But then, the manual goes on to state "If using a charge controller in your system, install pv and battery breakers on the din rail". So does this mean I need to install breakers on the rail section that corresponds to where that terminal clump is?

[Brucey]

So pretty sure thats talking about installing an mnepv125 125A breaker for the hb battery positive, and an mnepv 600 for pv disconnect (same as an hb breaker box except that uses a shunt trip version of the mnepv 600)

The negative of the hb battery connection would land on the whiz bang jr shunt load side (stacking the lugs).

[BlackwaterPark]

So pretty sure thats talking about installing an mnepv125 125A breaker for the hb battery positive, and an mnepv 600 for pv disconnect (same as an hb breaker box except that uses a shunt trip version of the mnepv 600)

The negative of the hb battery connection would land on the whiz bang jr shunt load side (stacking the lugs).

I wonder if I can then also run the positive into the corrosponding terminal as well...otherwise, i'll have uneven lengths of cable if I move the negative over to the epanel and keep the positive on the bus bar. And i'm guessing I would want to also move my AC charger over to the same negative lug as well? I wonder if I can triple stack it. I don't think the Rosie will accept any of my for generators for ac input directly, as it stuns to require the same ridiculous thd ratings as the EG4 units and many others.

[Brucey]

So pretty sure thats talking about installing an mnepv125 125A breaker for the hb battery positive, and an mnepv 600 for pv disconnect (same as an hb breaker box except that uses a shunt trip version of the mnepv 600)

The negative of the hb battery connection would land on the whiz bang jr shunt load side (stacking the lugs).

I wonder if I can then also run the positive into the corrosponding terminal as well...otherwise, i'll have uneven lengths of cable if I move the negative over to the epanel and keep the positive on the bus bar. And i'm guessing I would want to also move my AC charger over to the same negative lug as well? I wonder if I can triple stack it. I don't think the Rosie will accept any of my for generators for ac input directly, as it stuns to require the same ridiculous thd ratings as the EG4 units and many others.

No need to keep positive and negative cables the same length for something like an scc (even for multiple batteries in parallel its the total round trip distance that matters).

For three connections may want to just have an bus bar connected to the whizbang jr load side for the non rosie loads.