I hate my Kid!

[Free Energy Freak]

Okay, not really. But, it was an attention getter, no?

First, this involves:
1 - 135 watts panel (waiting for another panel the same size to come in)
1 - Beta Kid #35, Firmware v1742
1 - Off-the-wall branded SE Asian battery, 120AH

Oh, and I actually like my Beta Kid very much. I will like it even better once I know how to operate the thing properly.

Anyway, on to the issue: Calibration

I thought I had it set yesterday. It was charging fine.
This morning, I wake up and the screen is blank. (This has happened in the past.) So, I disconnect input and disconnect, and reconnect the battery. Then, adjust the calibration on the input and reconnect it in order to get it to start again.

Unfortunately, my current multimeter only reads in whole voltages, and has a single range of 0-600vdc.
(I am waiting for a new Klein MM100 Multimeter to come from the states. It should arrive by this upcoming weekend.) 

At night, when no voltage should be read from the panel, it still shows input voltage on the display. If I change the calibration where that reads zero at night, the following morning - today, it causes the display to blank out again.

Anyway, another couple of questions, why does the unit have to be calibrated anyway? Shouldn't it be able to check the voltage on the solar input, as well as the battery bank voltage?


Sign me,
Confused in Cambodia

EDIT: Added firmware version

[Westbranch]

Have you updated the FW?  If not you need to contact Ryan@Midnitesolar.com and get the bootloader to update.  Reason is oyu have a BETA model

[Free Energy Freak]

Yep, all updated to the most recent version. Mario sent it to me about a week or so ago. I keep forgetting that I should add that to posts regarding a Beta.


EDIT: Added firmware version to O/P.

[Westbranch]

What about trying a reinstall in case it didn't take?  Hopefully you don't have to send it back...

[Free Energy Freak]

What about trying a reinstall in case it didn't take?

I guess I could. I have the most recent firmware. I am in hopes it is just something to do with the settings.

If you, or anyone else here has a Kid, maybe post if you had to calibrate your Kid controller?

Hopefully you don't have to send it back...

Oh, man! Please, don't even think that. It took me over four months to get this thing here. I would be down to using a MorningStar Sunlight 10a, 12v controller again.

[vtmaps]

adjust the calibration on the input and reconnect it in order to get it to start again.

Unfortunately, my current multimeter only reads in whole voltages, and has a single range of 0-600vdc.

Maybe you should be using the Kid to calibrate your multimeter.   --vtMaps

[Free Energy Freak]

Maybe you should be using the Kid to calibrate your multimeter.

At this point, I think I will wait for the Klein to arrive, and just use the MorningStar Sunlight controller until then. This is giving me a headache.

[dgd]

...
At night, when no voltage should be read from the panel, it still shows input voltage on the display. If I change the calibration where that reads zero at night, the following morning - today, it causes the display to blank out again.

You should not be using calibration to show zero input volts at night. With the battery connected and no solar input the KID will make the input voltage show at a value somewhere below the battery voltage
This is normal for the Kid and Classic controllers, its designed to do this.

I dont understand why you use calibration anyway especially since you do not have an accurate voltmeter to determine actual battery and solar input voltages

dgd

[Free Energy Freak]

This is normal for the Kid and Classic controllers, its designed to do this.

This is the first I have seen, or read this, anywhere. If it is in the owner's manual, I missed it. If it isn't in the manual, it should be. This is, to me anyway, something I would think that end users should be made aware of.


Naturally, I believed it should show zero volts at night, when no input is coming from the solar array. What reason would there be for a controller to show voltage input at night?

I dont understand why you use calibration anyway especially since you do not have an accurate voltmeter to determine actual battery and solar input voltages

Because, if I do not adjust it, the screen will blank out, or the controller will not charge. It will continually show "resting" on the display, when I know for certain the battery needs to be charged.

If any of this is an "MPPT thing", it's all new to me, as this is my first MPPT controller.

[dgd]

This is the first I have seen, or read this, anywhere. If it is in the owner's manual, I missed it. If it isn't in the manual, it should be. This is, to me anyway, something I would think that end users should be made aware of.

This action by Classics and Kids has been discussed before in various message threads. Maybe MN need to document this if its not in any of the manuals.
(my beta kid #28 shows 18v input at night with 24v battery bank)

Naturally, I believed it should show zero volts at night, when no input is coming from the solar array. What reason would there be for a controller to show voltage input at night?

Its not actually showing PV input as there is no input voltage from the PVs. The KID is holdin its input terminals at a voltage somewhere below the battery voltage
If you disconnect the PV cable from the KID then measure the voltage on the KIDs input terminals you will see this voltage. If you measure the voltage on the PV cables this will be zero.
This is simply a feature of the KID and Classic MPPT controllers.

Because, if I do not adjust it, the screen will blank out, or the controller will not charge. It will continually show "resting" on the display, when I know for certain the battery needs to be charged.

If any of this is an "MPPT thing", it's all new to me, as this is my first MPPT controller.

You have another problem which I suspect is because you only have one solar panel providing input voltage, probably max power voltage between 17 and 18volts.
This may be less as the panel heats up.
In any case the panel may not be providing sufficient voltage to enable the KID mppt to function properly so with a well charged 12volt battery over 13v and hot panel making under 17v there is insufficient voltage headroom  to start the controller charging.
This issue should be resolved when you get the second panel and connect it in series with the first to increase PV maxV to about 35volts.

dgd

[dgd]

Forgot to suggest that the controller may work better with just one pv panel if you use Legacy P&O charge mode.

dgd

[Free Energy Freak]

This action by Classics and Kids has been discussed before in various message threads. Maybe MN need to document this if its not in any of the manuals.
(my beta kid #28 shows 18v input at night with 24v battery bank)

Most definitely. I have the most recent version of the owner's manual for the Kid. There are several things that will confuse an end user more than help them, from what I have read so far. Other areas simply not discussed, or not in enough detail.

Its not actually showing PV input as there is no input voltage from the PVs. The KID is holdin its input terminals at a voltage somewhere below the battery voltage
If you disconnect the PV cable from the KID then measure the voltage on the KIDs input terminals you will see this voltage. If you measure the voltage on the PV cables this will be zero.
This is simply a feature of the KID and Classic MPPT controllers.

Odd to me. But, I guess there is a reason for it. I will make a note of this. Thanks for letting me know about it.

You have another problem which I suspect is because you only have one solar panel providing input voltage, probably max power voltage between 17 and 18volts.
This may be less as the panel heats up.
In any case the panel may not be providing sufficient voltage to enable the KID mppt to function properly so with a well charged 12volt battery over 13v and hot panel making under 17v there is insufficient voltage headroom  to start the controller charging.
This issue should be resolved when you get the second panel and connect it in series with the first to increase PV maxV to about 35volts.

Well, at the moment we should have days up to 30 degrees or so. Lows about 25-26. However, with rainy season here, I don't imagine the panel is heating up too badly. Obviously, not all day, but parts of the day the sky clears enough for the controller to - according to the current settings anyway, send up to about 75 or 80 watts to the controller. I figure, considering the weather now, and that it is a single 135 watts panel, that isn't too bad?

Hopefully, my other panel will come in before the end of August, so I can wire it up. (That could include everything from prayer, to begging and screaming, in order to get things done in this part of the world. But, I suppose that is one reason you rent an entire home for $200 US per month, or less. So, not too much screaming will be done.)

[Free Energy Freak]

Forgot to suggest that the controller may work better with just one pv panel if you use Legacy P&O charge mode.

Ahhh, yes. The ol' P&0. The option I read about in the manual, and still have no idea what it is. Okay. I will try that tomorrow.

[vtmaps]

This action by Classics and Kids has been discussed before in various message threads. Maybe MN need to document this if its not in any of the manuals.

It should be in the manual... it's a FAQ on this forum.  --vtMaps

[Westbranch]

FEF, to complete your sig , it will help to add the battery voltage.  it puts any numbers into perspective... 

Also what are the loads during the day, some of your problem with charging may be  from a close to full battery and high heat and low PV output as DGD said