Aux1 SOC Low to start generator: Classic resets and gen starts at wrong SOC

Started by 2twisty, November 28, 2014, 11:01:40 AM

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Resthome

I always see the LA drop its connection, but it is almost 100% that it reconnects on the LA own retry. I can't remember when it fail to connect and required a reboot. I have seen it once or twice but it's been a while.

In my case I am only monitoring it for a week or so at a time during spring, summer and fall. Winter it's on it's own and other that the Classic logging itself I don't know what is happening because there is no internet connection.
John

10 x Kyocera KC140, Classic 150 w/WBJr, Link10 Battery Monitor, 850 AH @ 12v Solar One 2v cells, Xantrex PROwatt SW2000
Off Grid on Houseboat Lake Don Pedro, CA

boB

Well, at least it is good that the Classic does not appear to need to
be reset anymore to get the internet connection back.  THAT was a bad deal !

That being said, it SURE would be nice if TCP/IP connections were always reliable.

Electronics stuff is just never 100% reliable.  Computers crash, cell phones
drop calls, records and CDs skip, silicon integrated circuits go bad for no
apparent reason...  I have seen two large semiconductor companies
have BATCHES of defective microprocessors that were supposedly reliable that gave me
nightmares in the past 15 years.

So, with that in mind, are we REALLY expecting cars to drive themselves reliably
with all that electronics in them ?????    I just don't see how it can work but
I guess we will see !

boB
K7IQ 🌛  He/She/Me

2twisty

Quote from: boB on December 10, 2014, 03:16:40 AM
Well, at least it is good that the Classic does not appear to need to
be reset anymore to get the internet connection back.  THAT was a bad deal !

I'm not sure that's an accurate statement. There seems to be times where the only thing that will restore the Classic's network IS to reboot it.

WHen I have trouble connecting, I will often ping the Classic's IP.  Most of the time I get a reply. That doesn't mean I don't have to reboot the classic..It usually means that I have to reboot the PC I'm using to clear the junk out of Adobe Air. When it does NOT reply, the ONLY cure is a reboot of the Classic.

I can start a log of when it misbehaves and what is required to fix it, if you like.  Is there any other data that you need? I need to add another cutoff switch between my distribution block and the Classic so that I can kill the power to the classic without killing power to the inverter.  Shutting down my entire system for a hard reboot is a real PITA, since I have computer equipment that has to be shut down cleanly.


Westbranch

.It usually means that I have to reboot the PC I'm using to clear the junk out of Adobe Air.

Is there not another way to clean out Adobe Air?
KID FW1811 560W >C&D 24V 900Ah AGM
CL150 29032 FW V.2126-NW2097-GP2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3Px4s 140W > 24V 900Ah AGM,
2 Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr, NetGr DS104Hub
Cotek ST1500 Inv  want a 24V  ROSIE Inverter
OmniCharge3024  Eu1/2/3000iGens
West Chilcotin 1680+W to come

boB

Quote from: Westbranch on December 10, 2014, 12:01:03 PM
.It usually means that I have to reboot the PC I'm using to clear the junk out of Adobe Air.

Is there not another way to clean out Adobe Air?


I have not heard of a problem with Adobe Air itself.  I will point Andrew to this discussion.

2twisty, have you also tried rebooting your router instead lf the Classic ?

What kind of router are you using and in what mode is it in ?

boB
K7IQ 🌛  He/She/Me

Resthome

When we discussed this a while back a lot of us were using Linksys routers, but I don't think there was any conclusion made. I looked at it with Wireshark back then it was with the old firmware before boB made changes to the Classic Network code. At that time it was the Classic that did not respond. Be interesting if someone could run a Wireshark trace until they get a disconect to see who is dropping the ball. I guess it could still be a quirk in the router losing the response. I'm no longer using a Linksys router and I still get the disconnects just not ones where I have to reboot. This is also with a more recent Classic. At least one after the case mod for the fans was made. I see this mostly when trying to extract data from the Classic with the LA.

Wireshark discussion from before.
http://midniteforum.com/index.php?topic=1054.msg8230#msg8230
John

10 x Kyocera KC140, Classic 150 w/WBJr, Link10 Battery Monitor, 850 AH @ 12v Solar One 2v cells, Xantrex PROwatt SW2000
Off Grid on Houseboat Lake Don Pedro, CA

boB

Yeah, this problem is evidently still on certain systems and has mainly to do with networks ungracefully disconnecting
at ~just~ the right time.  Or, wrong time.  We're working on it still of course.


K7IQ 🌛  He/She/Me

2twisty

The Classic is plugged into a regular 5-port gigabit switch.  It's not a router.

I don't buy any argument that my network hardware is the problem, since I have several items on my network and none of them have any problems making and maintaining a connection to or from any other piece of hardware except the Classic.

This tells me that the problem is in the Classic, not the network. 

As for Adobe Air: in another thread somewhere here, there was discussion that Adobe Air can sometimes get a little wonky and a reboot can sometimes fix it.  I've also had to reinstall Adobe Air on my laptop as well as on my mobile devices.  The LocalApp is completely useless on iOS, and is marginally useful on Android. 

I'd love to see an OS-native app for this; trying to make a one-size fits all application totally cross-platform is problematic at best.


boB

I agree that the Classic should not have to be reset to regain communications.

Are you running the Classic in DHCP or STATIC IP mode ?

If DHCP, what gives it and the other devices on your network their IP addresses ?



K7IQ 🌛  He/She/Me

2twisty

I've used both static and DHCP.  I prefer static, because the classic kept getting different IPs and the Local App would remember the old one and I'd have to remove it from the list.

It's currently set to static. 

To answer your question, the internet router is an Apple Time Capsule. I've even tried statically setting the IP on my laptop, and it doesn't seem to affect the problem.  It does it regardless of the DHCP/Static settings.

The laptop is connected to the network via WiFi.  I suppose I could run cat5 across the floor, but I'll need a note from you explaining why that's needed to my wife, lol.


Westbranch

testing with a Cat5 will tell , over time, if that wifi is part of or the issue...  is the Classic attached to a router or a bridge?
KID FW1811 560W >C&D 24V 900Ah AGM
CL150 29032 FW V.2126-NW2097-GP2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3Px4s 140W > 24V 900Ah AGM,
2 Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr, NetGr DS104Hub
Cotek ST1500 Inv  want a 24V  ROSIE Inverter
OmniCharge3024  Eu1/2/3000iGens
West Chilcotin 1680+W to come

boB


BTW, I have Aux 1 remembering the state of the output over an auto-restart.

Now, it doesn't set it until a couple seconds after the reboot though..  I will try and tighten
it up some but chances are that it may glitch high or low for a moment until it sets it
right.
K7IQ 🌛  He/She/Me

2twisty

Quote from: Westbranch on December 13, 2014, 01:38:08 AM
testing with a Cat5 will tell , over time, if that wifi is part of or the issue...  is the Classic attached to a router or a bridge?

It is not directly connected to a router or bridge.

The Classic connects to a 8-port gigabit switch, to which all my ethernet-enabled devices connect.

I have a wireless range extender that is also plugged into that same switch.  My laptop accesses the network over wifi via that range extender.

The range extender connects to the router wirelessly (about 1/4 mile away!) which serves the DHCP and provides access to the Internet.




2twisty

Quote from: boB on December 13, 2014, 08:21:32 PM

BTW, I have Aux 1 remembering the state of the output over an auto-restart.

Now, it doesn't set it until a couple seconds after the reboot though..  I will try and tighten
it up some but chances are that it may glitch high or low for a moment until it sets it
right.

Great!

How about adding a delay in the AUX1 code so that it waits after a reboot for a moment to give it time to set the level?

For example, add some boolean variable called InitDone, and have the code that decides whether Aux1 should be turned on check that the value of InitDone is TRUE.  Then in the code that runs immediately on reboot, set InitDone to FALSE until the init procedures are completed.  That should prevent the accidental trigger of AUX1 until you've had a chance to write the values of SOC from EEPROM to the registers.

Again, I've not seen the code, so I don't know how easy it would be to add something like this -- just a suggestion.

2twisty

Interesting data point:

When I cold-boot the CC by removing the power, it does NOT automatically energize AUX1.  So, there is some difference in how the CC behaves between a reboot and a power-cycle.