Classic 150 menu buttons

Started by wildblue, May 09, 2016, 05:28:34 PM

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wildblue

Hi all. Not really sure which category this falls under so I'll just post it here.
I've been using my classic 150 for about 5 years now and it's been working fine, but about 6 months ago the status button started getting finnicky. (I got the 150 for my first solar installation and I messed with it ALOT while I was learning.) For a while I just had to press a little harder to get it to work but eventually it became almost impossible to use. Now both the "menu" and "status" buttons don't work at all. When the problem became critical I popped the front off and checked the buttons to see if there was junk or something built up on the circuit and what I discovered while messing around was that there is nothing wrong with the circuit itself, it's that whatever material is on the back of the button (graphite???) is not completing the circuit anymore. If i could just replace the whole button pad on the front of the Classic it would solve my problem.
So my question is, is that possible or am I going to have to replace the whole thing just to fix 2 buttons not working?

binkino

you can try clean the contacts of the buttons (PCM and button) with alcohol and/or "Kontakt Gold" or similar
(using a kind of "q-tip" but make sure, no fiber of them rest there after cleaning)
often helps me withthe buttons of remotes (TV/...) with same kind of buttons
Chargers:  Classic Lite 200 + Classic 200
Inverter: Easun ISolar-SMX-II-5.6KW
PV modules: 12 x 240 Wp + 12 x 255 Wp = 5.940 Wp
Batteries: 2 x 10 kWh + 5 kWh LFP = 25 kWh
My LCARS PV site: http://a68k.de/Solar/Monitor_LC2.php
PV-Output: http://pvoutput.org/list.jsp?id=38617 (not longer uptodate)

Westbranch

send an email to Ryan@MidNitesolar.com and an explanation of your issue, he can direct you Ii believe , to the right person...
KID FW1811 560W >C&D 24V 900Ah AGM
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2 Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr, NetGr DS104Hub
Cotek ST1500 Inv  want a 24V  ROSIE Inverter
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West Chilcotin 1680+W to come

wildblue

I thought cleaning them with alcohol would work but it didn't help. Thanks Westbranch.  :)

tecnodave

Wild blue,

I didn't see your post in time.......alcohol will dissolve the base which holds the conductive material to the rubber "key"  ,  this compound does break down, I do not have a cure but I use fine grade electronic cleaner.......CRC2-26.....or maybe CRC5-56...... Spray cleaners for delicate electronics.....very little on a cotton swab.....very delicately...and yes I have ruined a few remote controllers....

dave
#1 Classic 150 12 x Sharp NE-170, 2S6P, 24volt L-16 Rolls-Surette S-530, MS4024 & Cotek ,  C-40 dirv.cont. for hot water
#2 Classic 150 12 x Sharp NE-170, 2S6P, 24 volt L-16 Interstate,Brutus Inv.
#3 Kid/WBjr 4/6 Sanyo 200 watt multilayer 4/6 P
#4 Kid/WBjr 4/6 Sanyo 200 watt multilayer 2S 2/3 P

binkino

If you sink the pad into alcohol, possible ;)
But only the dark contact area with a "Q-Tip" cleaning and the contacts on the PCB.

It worked since my ol ViC-20 time on the keyboard keys - contacts, still today with my remotes.

Since many many years I also use then for a "finish" the "Kontakt Gold" spray that "seals" the contacts ...

But different experiences are allways interesting :)


If it don't help, a pad can not be so much expensive to replace from midnite. But keep the old one in a dry bag, ...  never know ;)
Chargers:  Classic Lite 200 + Classic 200
Inverter: Easun ISolar-SMX-II-5.6KW
PV modules: 12 x 240 Wp + 12 x 255 Wp = 5.940 Wp
Batteries: 2 x 10 kWh + 5 kWh LFP = 25 kWh
My LCARS PV site: http://a68k.de/Solar/Monitor_LC2.php
PV-Output: http://pvoutput.org/list.jsp?id=38617 (not longer uptodate)

tecnodave

#6
I have used alcohol with success in the past, but it feel that no residue spray cleaner is better but whatever you use on keypad membranes, go lightly!  They are a tad bit delicate......I do not like them...but they are a economical data entry device.

Dave

I have never heard of Kontakt Gold.    Is that German product?  Didn't find reference to it here

td
#1 Classic 150 12 x Sharp NE-170, 2S6P, 24volt L-16 Rolls-Surette S-530, MS4024 & Cotek ,  C-40 dirv.cont. for hot water
#2 Classic 150 12 x Sharp NE-170, 2S6P, 24 volt L-16 Interstate,Brutus Inv.
#3 Kid/WBjr 4/6 Sanyo 200 watt multilayer 4/6 P
#4 Kid/WBjr 4/6 Sanyo 200 watt multilayer 2S 2/3 P

binkino

Chargers:  Classic Lite 200 + Classic 200
Inverter: Easun ISolar-SMX-II-5.6KW
PV modules: 12 x 240 Wp + 12 x 255 Wp = 5.940 Wp
Batteries: 2 x 10 kWh + 5 kWh LFP = 25 kWh
My LCARS PV site: http://a68k.de/Solar/Monitor_LC2.php
PV-Output: http://pvoutput.org/list.jsp?id=38617 (not longer uptodate)

TomW

I sent this link to Ryan, hopefully he can get a moment or 3 to respond. Sending him an email would work, too. ryan@midnitesolar.com

Tom
Do NOT mistake me for any kind of "expert".

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)


24 Trina 310 watt modules, SMA SunnyBoy 7.7 KW Grid Tie inverter.

I thought that they were angels, but much to my surprise, We climbed aboard their starship and headed for the skies

boB

I think we can maybe send you a new keypad.  It's easy to replace BUT you might have to "clip" off the melted plastic studs that
hold the PCB  to the front panel of the MNGP.  You just have to set it in there and pop the top back on usually after this.
Not a biggie.

boB
K7IQ 🌛  He/She/Me